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  1. Yes that's right. Essentially a total novice with high performance petrol engine building attempting a full build. What could possibly go wrong!!! Anyway! The last few weeks have been fantastic for both me and the 405 really. Today I picked up the next round of parts for it for 2019. Being as I can insure it in January the plan is to build a second engine for a later date. And this is it. What I've got so far is 1 complete s16 engine with a knackered water pump that I bought for 80 euro. a xu10j4 iron block from an s16 that has been bored, decked and honed to 86.5mm 1 mi16 cylinder head with unknown regrinds. 1 damaged Gti6 head that I may or may not knick the valve guides out of for the mi16 head Kent cam pulleys Wossner 12.5:1 high compression pistons Pts sump baffle Pug racing 4 branch exhaust manifold Jenvey 48s Spoox aluminium crank pulley(ordered) Obviously I'm missing valves, valve springs, lifters, rockers, conrods and a crank to name but a few. How ever the complete s16 engine can donate what's needed provided its in good condition. Once I get a chance to measure the cams it should help me figure out what lift they are Valve wise I want to go bigger 36.25mm intake and standard exhaust. But in all honesty I think I will leave this idea for a later big valve lairy 290 degree head. For the moment I'm think 1 piece stainless valves of standard size. Crank shaft leaves me a few options. Stay standard, go with a 88mm Hdi crank or an xud11 92mm crank. 88mm Hdi sounds like the best option to me here as they are easy come by and forged. Conrod wise I'd think pec forged rods might suit my application and keeping cost in mind. But if anyone has any suggestions for better quality rods in a similar price range. New or used I'm open to that. Hoping to make a start at preparing the head tomorrow with a mild port and polish just to tidy it up. I may even hand polish the outer casting to 2500grit no performance gains obviously but it will look the the job. Might give the block the same treatment. Since this is my first major engine build any advice is hugely appreciated, what's best practice, what tools to use What fasteners are best used and where to get them. What gaskets and seals should I use Has anyone got a service manual for an xu10j4, xu10j4 and a dw10(for crank specs)
  2. Hi everybody, a really long time since I've here... about the same as my car has been sitting there all alone... I am slowly starting to put things together again for my engine. I was wondering if anyone would know the installed height of the gti6 springs. I did some measurements today but I'd like to check them with the community. I'm getting a 10.8~11 lb/mm combined rate out of some tired dual valve springs from a ~120k km vts; 90lbs@33.6mm seated pressure and about 200lbs at 10 mm lift. I measured 2 pairs of springs using 2 methods, although one should be more precise than the other, the one in the picture with the small load cell should be more that accurate enough. I also got a very doubtful 33.6mm installed height - need to turn a cylinder to fit between the dummy spring and the tappet bore to measure it more accurately. Can anyone confirm or refute this? I probably need to say that I used a modified xu7jp4 retainer, that aside from any minor machining differences, measures about the same as the gti6 one. If anyone cares this is the spredsheet and some photos Thanks, Nico vsprings.xlsx
  3. The problem I'm currently facing is regarding the fuel pump not priming, the engine will turn but will not fire up. I experienced this last year (in this thread - http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=151681&page=1 ) but the fuel pump priming issue went away when I replaced the relay. The car then sat for a few months through winter, then a few months ago I replaced the battery and it fired up instantly. I then sent it to a bodyshop for bodywork repairs and painting. The car has been in the hands of the bodyshop for some time and they reported the car had been starting fine (they had the car for the last few months) but then recently the car started to cut out 20 seconds or so after starting, shortly after the fuel pump completely stopped priming. So far I have: Checked the Inertia Switch (now bridged). Tried two different Fuel Pump Relays, both verified as working 100% on another GTI6 205 (Dobboys). Checked the Fuel Pump Relay socket female connectors (all ok). Bridged Pins 5 and 8 which did indeed result in the fuel pump audibly buzz/prime (ruling out fuel pump failure?) I am stumped as to how the fuel pump primes when I bridge pins 5 and 8 yet it won't prime when I fit either working relays? Dobboy suggested checking the relevant relay pins for 12v readings which I will do tomorrow (the left coloumn of pins of No.40 Engine Management Relay just below) in case there is a broken bit of wiring leading up to the terminal itself: It's a real kick in the arse seeing as the car is finished and looks great but now it's stuck at the bodyshop! Is it at all possible that there is a bad earth that could cause the fuel pump not to prime? I'm slightly worried the ECU may have somehow locked itself as well. Appreciate any advice.
  4. Dear mates, my name is Ramón Fernández, from Spain, it's a pleasure to greet you. I’m 32 years old, mechanical engineer and creator of PetrolheadGarage.com. In this website we are a group of non-professional friends that we share, in the most detailed way, our projects, restorations, techniques, passion and knowledge about classic cars with the only goal of learning and enjoying. After sharing the fully restoration of a Mini 1275cc SPI ’95 we are starting our next project: Making a Peugeot 205 Style 1.1 TU1 to GTi-6 (XU10J4RS engine) conversion. This is the car: This project, like that of the Mini we have made, we intend to record it and share it with everyone in our web, Youtube Channel y Facebook, showing each detailed step, how to do it and, above all, the challenges we will face. My knowledge about the 205 and / or any other group model is very limited, I have a world to learn and I’m reading & studying in this great house, so I would like to gather in this post all the information that we can all gather to carry out this project [/ b] . The objective is, as I said, to record it, but to do this it has to be done first, and to do it we have to have all the information possible. With this I hope that, together, we can create the largest and best collection of videotutorials about such an interesting project.. The information I have collected so far about what we need is ( TO CONFIRM – ): Bodywork: We have two. The one of 1.1 that you have seen above and the one of a 205 TD that will serve as a donor, since it has many pieces of 205 GTi, Xsara and 309.Video:Peugeot 205 RFS Restomod #2: ¿Por dónde empezar? Soportes y referencias de motor y cambio Engine: XU10J4RS (RFS) coming from a 1998 306 GTI-6. 120 kW. Engine mounts: We have bought the Pug1Off group N engine mounts Gearbox: Gearbox BE3 coming from a Xsara VTS. Diff: We have bought this Quaife ATB diff QDF3H de Quaife ATB Clutch kit: The 215mm standard of the Mi16 / BX16. Clutch kit for the 20TA55 box (BE3 / 5 of the Xsara VTS). A street 215mm will be searched, unless someone recommends otherwise. An example here Flywheel: : 215 mm with OEM ref: 0532F2 coming from these car models: Xsara VTS, 306 2.0G (engine RFXXU10J2), 406 Coupe (S1/S2) 2.0 (132 Cv) (engine RFVXU10J4R), 405 2.0 (engine RFXXU10J2). Engine cradle: Engine cradle coming from a 205 GTi. Rear axle: Rear axle coming from a 309 with brakes & suspensión arms from a Xsara VTS. (I'll continue ASAP) Thank you very much, Best regards.
  5. I'm not really sure if this is the right place to post but I'll do it either way. As the title say I'm building a road going super touring 405 mi16 out of a very special 405. Why is its special, well it's a real survivor. It's the last remaining original Irish phase 1 mi16. Most would say restore it but in all honesty it's been bastardised to the high heavens it's also never going to be sold if I can help it. Where do I start, I've had it 3 years and it's been in the family for 4. I got it as a 21St birthday present off my older brother (I'm a lucky sod) I then set about getting it Road worthy as it had been off the road for over 13 years when I got it. New braking system, fuel lines, suspension components etc all to get it ready to start to build to my perfect 405. I have two finishing stages the first being pugfest 18 and the next being pugfest 19. For 18 I'll have dealt with suspension mods, cosmetics and some mechanical mods and for 19 I plan to have the engine I want for it built and in it. As it is I already sourced some items that Ive been chasing with more to source On the list for 18 is Supertouting front bumper Rear gurney flap Bilstien coilovers Mechlab adjustable top mounts Grp n engine and gearbox mounts Bakerbm coolant and oil breather kit Gti6 gearbox 4 branch manifold 2.5/3 inch exhaust 4 pot Brembos 320mm discs Revolution millenniums/flatface compomotive mo5s in 17x8 et15 or less Front canards Mc racing bonnet and boot lid Respray and roof repair Gti6 battery box Gti6 intake Engine bay tidy and paint Test and tax the thing I'm sure I've forgotten something The biggest issue facing me really is the roof repair. I do eventually plan to re-roof it but that will be at a later point in my ownership. As of now I've already started to strip it down and I've sold some bits that I won't be using again (waste not want not) I'll be updating this once a week, usually a Sunday. Thanks for reading
  6. Hi everyone! I'm new here I've got a phase 1 405 mi16 that I want to for lack of a better term wake it up a little more! With everything else I have to do with the car before pugfest So budget is a big thing. What I'm thinking Gti6 intake manifold with ported and polished throttle body Gti6 exhaust manifold Omex ecu Coil pack conversion. I've a couple of questions though. Will the gti6 exhaust manifold clear the firewall in a 405? What else can I do that's not to extreme? Where can I find A full wiring diagram for a phase 1 mi16. I need to tidy up the engine bay wiring and remove a few things too. As for the engine I have further plans for later this year but that's a whole other story! Thanks for reading
  7. I have that gearbox but im not sure to gear ratios? The internet says in this box 3.69 FD (3.46 , 1.85, 1.36 ,1.07, 0.86) If it is correct? ​ my plan in that gearbox put 4.43 FD from 306 s16 box and i have very short box ​ max speed in 5 (7200rpm) is about 205-210 kmh ​ car is 205 GTi6 ... sorry for my bad english ..
  8. It is with regret that I post a thread about my gearbox and the judder/vibration I suffer at low revs. I have the wrong clutch fork bushes in there (mismatched yellow/white), as per this photo, which I knew about when I reassembled the box: clicky mcclickfest In my defence, the ones I removed were the same colour, and the kit I got from Neat Car Parts including the fork and bushes also came with them mismatched. I was stubborn and thought it might be alright. I'm going to take the box off tomorrow or Saturday to investigate my vibration I can feel when setting off in 1st, it's quite horrible actually but completely clears after about 1500rpm, it's just the low/initial idle RPM. I've got the new fork bushes (matched white ones I think) to throw in and a new clutch release bearing incase mine is shot, but the car has only done about 3 miles on the brand new clutch/bearing etc. It's a J plate originally, now running the 1.6 BE3 box with the GTi6 engine and right clutch setup (the 801042 Valeo one) Only other thing being I have a BBM harder rubber solid lower mount which I accept will vibrate more but I think this is clutch related. Anyone got anything else to add that may cause this? Closest thread similar to this was one that Anthony posted about yonks ago and ended up swapping the clutch. Not sure if something was wrong on his setup though or damaged. EDIT> I also just remembered when I took the box off, that it got knocked off the pallet it was on in my garage. A tiny bit of the metal casing broke off around the clutch bush, just about able to see it here - clicky - so not sure if that could also cause an issue? We didn't feel it was enough to make the bush move when the arm was used so left it. Cheers
  9. Hi So I am back after a couple years out of the 205 scene, I have purchased a Miami Blue 205 Gti with a Gti6 engine from Silky from here and was previously TheOilBurner’s. The car is in good condition, the bodywork being the biggest issue and I will be tackling that at some stage but for the foreseeable future the plan is to make sure it will last for the next 5-10 years. I will let the pics do most of the talking but this is what is not pictured. Fitted Bluetooth stereo to bring it up to the 21st century Replaced the 6x9 speakers with working set and wired them in Fixed the dash front panel as one of the bits broke while I was driving. Applied 10mm sound proofing to the inside of the doors and applied U-Pol Gravi-Guard to the bottom of the door skin to protect it from the water that enters the door. Applying it to the door skin makes a MASSIVE difference to how the car feels and makes it feel much more solid and modern, very much recommend and only costs £13 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112190988942?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Stuck some of the sound proofing to the back of the standard thin carpet in the boot which also made a big difference to road noise Unscrewed the dash parts and door speaks to fit slightly oversized screws to stop rattles. Which now I only have two rattles one in the head lining and one in the sunroof fixture. Generally tidied up the carpet and washed the entire interior as I made a mess sanding back the boot. Waxoly’d the entire chassis tubes Started with the dreaded boot rust. Had the same issue on my last pug :@ for anyone who thinks the have a good boot I would strongly recommend re painting it so it stays that way. This didn’t look like a massive job but I found about 10x more than I was expecting. Found the rear bumper supports completely rotted and surprised the rear bumper was even still on the car. Ordered replacements for SkyQuake. Another job ive done on my last pug. Started the rust treatment. I did this about 3 times overall as I was sanding and every time I had to go out I would apply a good coating of Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 Rust Killer. Then completely went to town on the boot and sanded nearly the entire thing back to bear metal. Then made a start on patching up the holes in the boot, sadly no pics of the finished welds as it was pissing down with rain we were doing this outside. L Also found this! Will require me to take the rear bumper off but its a lot bigger than the pic as I have already chiselled away at it and its about the size of my hand. Once the welding was complete I applied primer while I was to grind the welds back and apply fiberglass, sand back and then paint in the original blue. I cleaned up the car and orders some new mats which really set the car off. Things left to do: Drill the driver’s door hinges out and fit oversized 8mm roll pins as the driver’s door hinges are completely worn which makes the door drops a good few CM’s Fix the two remaining rattles in the car Fit a duel VSS sensor to stop the car hesitating below 1k RPM Take rear bumper off and replace the rear bumper mounts and hole at the rear of the boot. Completely under seal the underneath of the car. Find a set of original seats and interior as I don’t like the grey and want the red back Replace the snapped bolt in the rear ARB Fix central locking fix interior light wire up driving lights wire up rear wiper and rear screen heater. Start on the body work……… I do have 1 question though, the car had this damaged when I got it, think its from the rear wheel but its an odd direction of the wheel to travel. Any ideas how this happened and how exactly people have tackled replacing this part of the body as its now rusted and beyond repairable.
  10. Thought I would add a few of the most common ECU pinouts and wiring diagrams, as I've managed to get a PDF writer working as well as a copy of Autodata. Unfortunately due to the file limits it's one per post. So lets start with the 306 S16, Bosch Motronic MP3.2. 306 XU10J4 wiring diagram.pdf
  11. Having a issue with my gti6 engined 205. Well say problem it may not be. Ive got my fans set to 92deg via my omex Long story short when on track previously i was hitting around 92 deg so have put aload of holes in the bumper which seems to have worked as monday at combe my temps were more 80-85 deg on track. My issue is soon as i come off track the temp quickly goes up (whithin 2-3mins) when barley moving to 92 and the fans keep it at that figure. Just seems to rise so quickly is this normal?
  12. Din_Din_Din

    What Ratios? Gti6

    I have a GTI6 with a 1.9 gearbox and am going to change the CWP to a 4.4 but I would like to know which gears i would need for a close ratio box as the car is going to be used for rallying. So if people could suggest what gears are best and what box's I can get them from that would be ideal
  13. On my GTI6 engine there is a pipe which comes from underneath the inlet and sucks which makes the engine idle horribly. The lad who i bought it off said it started popping and banging one night, realised that pipe was the problem capped it off and it runs fine but not as good as it was at higher revs... any ideas what could be the problem ? thanks
  14. i have hit a dead end on a couple of wires and just need to no where to reconnect them theirs one yellow wire from left pin of aa witch went to 1 of 2 grey wires cant remember with one ​ ​ then another wire witch came off one of the 2 grey wires and went somewhere ( was pulling about and must have puled wire out of crimp ) i allso can not find where to conect the left aa wire (yellow) back up to ​ they all come out of this side of the car ​ other than this slight issue the wiring should be straight forward as the loom and ecu have been left in just a case of soldering all the wire back together i hope help much appreciated cheers olly
  15. i have just put down a deposit on a 205 wit a gti6 engine in witch used to be in an old car of mine and the gti6 engine is f****d and i want to put the std 1.9 8v engine back in it my question is it has 1.6 gti box in and i presume a mi16 clutch i no the clutch to b a good quality luck item and very healthy as miles original done the conversion on the old car would the mi16 clutch bolt up to the stander ed 1.9 8v flywheel i would put a new clutch in but am on a very tight budget and just need it on the road help much appreciated cheers olly
  16. Hi please help. Bought myself an engine off a good mate... Long story short is he messed up cambelt change and never locked off cams. I've managed to sort it out to my knowledge by locking off cams in there locking position, pretty much common knowledge !. I also locked off crank but dont know whether if it's " coming or going" if you know what a mean, is the crank in wrong position, upside down?. I asked a friend mechanic who tells me usually piston 1 is TDC ! Closest to cams.if all 3 pins are aligned. I locked off all 3 put new belt on and turned it by hand 10 times. Can hear the compression. And both cam and crank sensors roughly hit there marks the same time. My worry is that when I line up all three locking points that piston 1 isn't TDC. And when I put piston 1 in TDC the 3 pins don't match there locking holes. Please help.
  17. Today had a bit of trouble with my 205 the cam pulleys were cracked (only just found out today) and this happened So was looking to get some updated ones or something like coloured alloy ones anyone help me out Thanks Daryl
  18. Hi all, Since getting my Xsara VTS engined pug on the road I've been experiencing some weird intermittent starting issues. The symptoms are the key is turned there is no action from the starter, no solenoid clicking, just nothing. Sometimes if you wait a while it eventually decides it would like to start! Happens quite rarely but this time it decided to act up in the queue AT THE MOT CENTRE! Being pushed backwards out of the MoT centre is quite embarrassing, although on the flip side it did bump start down the road (phew!). So, initially I thought it was something to do with dodgy under-dash wiring or the alarm (Clifford concept 100) but the problem happened when the alarm was disabled (valet mode) and I could see the dash lights as normal and hear the fuel pump prime. I ripped apart the under-dash wiring there and checked the brown connectors etc. All looks good and the engine started every time after 20-30 attempts and even after a test drive. The battery connections seem good but I can't get at the connections at the starter motor itself. Where do you reckon the problem might lie? I'm trying to avoid £70 for a new starter if possible, and I'm taking a gamble the problem won't happen on the MoT this Thursday!
  19. I carried out a coolant change recently and changed the standard 1Bar GTi6 radiator cap to a 1.3Bar item from Halfrauds. I was hoping it would make a difference but it really hasn't. The following pic is the vehicle up to operating temp and occurs when I'm driving steady at say 30mph and above. It pretty much stays at this point: When I park up it'll creep slowly up to the mark below, this is exactly the point upon which the second fan activates: When the second fan is blowing the temp needle drops extremely slowly, in fact it'll drop back a smudge to the second last white marker and stop blowing, only to start up again shortly after as the needle once again reaches the above point. Is this typical? I'm not losing coolant and the car drives fine. I'm aware the gauge overreads but it's butt clenchingly worrying to see a temp gauge read so high and stay in that zone until I get properly moving again. Not a very good pic (was checking battery clamps) but shows a bit of the plumbing, there's a T-Piece below the expansion tank. I'll try and dig out a better pic of the pipework if it helps. : If there's something not right I'd love to know.
  20. Having never performed a coolant changed I enlisted a more experienced mate to help carry out the job last weekend while I helped and took notes . While blethering he decided, rather prematurely, to twist off the rad cap on the expansion tank connected to the bulkhead. The car had not been parked long and inevitably a scalding hot little eruption of coolant gushed out. It actually wasn't that bad and didn't spray everywhere, however I was still rather pissed off due to the risk of electrical wiring/components getting drenched in the immediate area. Predictably he reassured me it would be fine etc as a "little" coolant does no harm. So we carried on replacing the coolant and the car seemed fine though I did notice the second fan coming in a little later than it should when I dropped him off. I then drove the 20 mile journey back home via the motorway. But 17 miles into the journey on the motorway the car silently shut down with no judder and no splutter but with dash lights on ala pre-ignition. The brake pedal went solid so I had no choice but to ease the handbrake up to slow the car down and rolled down a convenient slip road to a stop. Thank fook I was only pottering and it wasn't on a roundabout or worse! I got out and checked the battery terminals (they were fine) belts and so on. Everything was fine. The car started up immediately so I crawled back via streets where it shut down 2 more times before reaching home. When I got back I armed the car but the alarm was really acting up by blaring the instant I armed it. I also noticed the fuel pump was no longer priming. I started the car one more time and it promptly shut down around 30 seconds later and the alarm stopped responding to commands completely. I think the immobiliser activated as it wouldn't start at all by this point. I got out with the bonnet still up and key in pre-ignition position and noticed erratic ticking relay type sounds and tracked it to this relay hiding in a box: I then heard another strange ticking sound between the header tank and ECU cover and found this below: It had electrical tape applied horizontally across the body and was simply folded over on top, like a badly fitted turban . When I pulled back the sliding red clips and peeled off the flimsily applied tape I realised why it had been applied: I removed the above item (battery was disconnected), cleaned it out with electrical contact cleaner (when I say clean I really mean bathed ), repeated a couple of times till it was clean and dried it. I then carefully applied multiple rows of crisscrossed electrical tape over the crack, basically all over the damn thing as a temporary measure. While I was at it I actually went a little mental and cleaned up as many terminals, contact points and earths in sight. Upon reconnecting the battery the alarm went back to its normal self, the pump primed as it should and boom it started with no fuss! I drove the car a to the petrol station, filled up and returned back and all seems well again. Most importantly the alarm is functioning again so I can leave it parked in confidence until I can replace the above component. So, what function do the above bits perform and what exactly happened? And where can I purchase a replacement?
  21. Hello all, I've carried out a fair few searches on these forums (awesome resource! ) before pinning down the fact that I need a standard exhaust to replace the horrendous Sportex frankenstien job my 205 Gti came with. I have a GTi-6 engine with "4903106" Catcams installed with a standard manifold and I've narrowed it down to two choices: Option 1 - Non-Cat Phase 2: http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/PEUGEOT/205/1.9/1992/__/79/630186/exhaust-part/ (circa £150 for 2 piece) Option 2 - Cat-Compatible Phase 2: http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/details/PEUGEOT/205/1.9/1992/__/79/630187/exhaust-part/ (circa £65 for two pieces - minus cat section) Now the issue for me is that regardless of what I choose I will have to instruct the exhaust fabricator to knock up an adequate downpipe from the GTi-6 manifold to the centrebox, so Option 1's front pipe will certainly require chopping. However Option 2, the "Cat-Compatible" system, seems to make more sense seeing as it's not inclusive of a downpipe thus no chopping required and it's cheaper overall. However I'm hoping someone could inform me whether there is a difference in the centrebox design (baffling) between the cat and non-cat centreboxes? In other words Option 1, seeing as it's for a non-cat system, will it have superior baffling than Option 2 which assumes a Cat would be in front of it? Also does Option 1 have the downpipe split all the way back to the centre box? I ask because it's unecessary for GTi-6 application therefore making the whole length of the front pipe an unecessary expense (again making Option 2 more attractive). However If Option 1 does indeed have superior baffling and the downpipe spit is only to the step down section I'm willing to pay the extra for it as I cannot stand the boom from 3-4k! Please let me know guys, the drone of the current system makes the car far too embarrassing to drive.
  22. Just a quick question this one - as part of my upcoming mi16 conversion i will be fitting a gti6 inlet manifold and as such trying to find ways around mounting the icv and ign coil, all i want to know is will there be any adverse effect in having the mi16 idle control valve open to atmosphere, i.e, one end will connect into the inlet manifold as per usual operation the other would just be open to the engine bay and to intake air as needs be (with a little breather filter attached) - any problems there? I have done it with gti6's before but will the mi16 work also since in its standard set up it draws air from the pipe after the afm; hence metered, whereas it will be drawing unmetered air the way i want to use it.
  23. Hi guys, I seriously need to dig my 205 out and get it finished, the only thing stopping me is the brakes. Does anyone have pictures of their vacuum hose setup? I ideally would like to know what joins/fittings/hose diameters people are using for theirs. Also, do most people just use either the vacuum pump or inlet or both? It's a gti6 engine with 1.9 gti non abs brakes. Cheers!
  24. Does anyone have a comprehensive list of what faults/sensor problems would cause the k-light to flicker on and off? Basically mine comes on at around 5k revs at which point the car hesitates horrendously, other than that the car is ok. Unfortunately I don't have a diagnostic port on the loom so I can't read any fault codes. So far I've changed the folowing: Fuel filter & pump - pressure reads a consistent 3 bars Coils & plugs Injectors - cleaned & tested MAP sensor Cam & crank sensors Exhaust system All of the above has made no difference whatsoever. The only thing I can think is to get the loom tested to make sure there are no electrical breaks within it, but it anyone can confirm what issues would cause the k light to come on that would be useful. thanks
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