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Found 38 results

  1. 2.0 8v turbo block, 1.9 Mi16 cylinder head. Is there anyone who has done this before and could tell me what would be the right way of doing this? I managed to find the long ARP stud above the water pump so the cylinder head is held in place correctly. The timing belt kit I used is for a 306 S16, it has 1 tensioner and 1 idler pulley (the red paint on the bolt helped me find out where to drill a hole in the 1.9 Mi16 timing cover, it didn't fit otherwise). The tensioner pulley is set to the max so the belt can not get more tension, I hope this is enough and that it won't fail (hope you can see how much tension the belt has in the pictures as I 'checked' it using my finger, I don't have any tools to measure this) . Valves do not hit pistons, timing may be off a little as I have done this using only my eyes and not the correct timing pins or even a drill bit (I will buy a Peugeot timing set soon to check this again). Crankshaft pulley, gear wheel and standard MLS head gasket for RFS engine have been used. Unable to find the timing cover I was looking for (0320E5) under the engine mount so I will try to modify a 1.8 cover as seen in the picture. There is a bolt behind my finger on the picture that holds a cover in place but I am worried that it might damage the timing belt, the clearance is only 2 or 3 mm's. I am also having trouble with the oil breather hoses (2.0 8v turbo breather hoses) as I can't fit the oil filler anywhere when the Mi16 inlet manifold is fitted. Does anyone know if I have used the correct belt kit, if I should remove the bolt that is close to the timing belt and what I should do with the oil breather/filler hoses? Would appreciate the help as I am stuck (again)
  2. I am putting together an engine (XU10 RGX with 1.9 Mi16 cylinder head) and need a solution to fit the cylinder head to the block using studs. What I have is a set of 'custom head studs' 145 mm in length and a set of Honda F20C ARP studs (170-ish mm in length) which also happen to be M12x1.5. If I use the 145mm ones I will not have enough thread above the waterpump, the washer + nut is sticking out above the stud, this is when no head bolt spacer is used. If I use the spacers on the 9 other ones I will have the same problem (nut sticks out above stud, about 3 or 4mm). If I use the ARP Honda studs, above the waterpump I would have enough thread for the nut to hold but only if I use a headbolt spacer as the stud is too long, for the 9 other ones I would need double spacers because the nut would just fall into a place without thread (socket will be too short also). A specialist told me to always use the head bolt spacers to prevent damage to the cylinder head (ARP washer is not enough to spread the load?). I was wondering if it is safe to put double spacers or if a set exists where I can use 1 spacer per bore and not have studs too long or too short. Does anyone know a way to safely do this, maybe with the parts I already have? I have looked on the forum before and someone mentioned the 'AU6.195-2LB' single stud but I cannot find this part anywhere and I am not sure which stud set was used. Hope someone can help me, I already spent a lot of money on parts and overhaul (and time waiting for a 16v turbo manifold which took over a year to make)
  3. Hi all, I've been slowly collecting parts for the, eventual, mi16 conversion I have planned for my gti. I've got a set of Catcams 4900528 cams, new oem hydraulic lifters, Catcams vernier pulleys, billet alloy crank pulley, a full rebuild kit (cylinder liners, every gasket, o-rings etc) and am about to purchase a set of Jenvey throttle bodies with an Emerald k6 ecu from pug1off (unless anyone had better suggestions, ecu or itb brand??). My main question is surrounding upping compression to at least 10.8/1. From what I've read the best way to do this is to deck the block and liners 1.3mm roughly to gain this figure. Has anyone done this themselves as no engine shop I've spoken to wants to remove so much material and more pressingly, I can't find a shop that can correctly clamp the liners to reduce their stack height respectively (my only thought is to turn them down on a lathe but that seems a touch dodgy). Are there any of the shelf high comp piston/con-rod setups, other than going forged internals or the Wossner high comp setup which I have been strongly advised against with the obnoxiously high dome design? I've got a figure of 200hp which might be optimistic at 7k rpm if anyone had input on that aswell. The less pressing question is about the engine loom wiring. Most people seem to splice an mi16 loom into a gti loom but with the addition of ITB's and standalone ecu in the mix I presume a full custom loom is the way to go. Has anybody purchased one from a company or individual that they could recommend as it's not something I would preferably do myself. Or even if there was a wiring diagram out there for a baseline I can start with. I'm located in AUS so specifically knowledgeable machine shops are hard to come by and used parts from the uk are often out of the question. Apologies if there are threads out there on this topic already that I have blindly missed, I just couldn't find one that answered my questions exactly. Any other input on must have parts or things to avoid while building the engine would be tremendously appreciated. Thanks in advance, Tom
  4. Thought I would add a few of the most common ECU pinouts and wiring diagrams, as I've managed to get a PDF writer working as well as a copy of Autodata. Unfortunately due to the file limits it's one per post. So lets start with the 306 S16, Bosch Motronic MP3.2. 306 XU10J4 wiring diagram.pdf
  5. My Mi16 (XU9j4) seems to be running lean. When it had an MOT a couple of months ago the tester said it appeared to be very lean when he tested it. It also feels a bit flat when driving, though seems to idle OK. I know many things can cause this from fuel pump, AFM, sensors, etc. But any tips on what I should focus on checking first? I don't have any kit for testing fuel pressure, but can probably test most of the electrical things OK.
  6. I'm not really sure if this is the right place to post but I'll do it either way. As the title say I'm building a road going super touring 405 mi16 out of a very special 405. Why is its special, well it's a real survivor. It's the last remaining original Irish phase 1 mi16. Most would say restore it but in all honesty it's been bastardised to the high heavens it's also never going to be sold if I can help it. Where do I start, I've had it 3 years and it's been in the family for 4. I got it as a 21St birthday present off my older brother (I'm a lucky sod) I then set about getting it Road worthy as it had been off the road for over 13 years when I got it. New braking system, fuel lines, suspension components etc all to get it ready to start to build to my perfect 405. I have two finishing stages the first being pugfest 18 and the next being pugfest 19. For 18 I'll have dealt with suspension mods, cosmetics and some mechanical mods and for 19 I plan to have the engine I want for it built and in it. As it is I already sourced some items that Ive been chasing with more to source On the list for 18 is Supertouting front bumper Rear gurney flap Bilstien coilovers Mechlab adjustable top mounts Grp n engine and gearbox mounts Bakerbm coolant and oil breather kit Gti6 gearbox 4 branch manifold 2.5/3 inch exhaust 4 pot Brembos 320mm discs Revolution millenniums/flatface compomotive mo5s in 17x8 et15 or less Front canards Mc racing bonnet and boot lid Respray and roof repair Gti6 battery box Gti6 intake Engine bay tidy and paint Test and tax the thing I'm sure I've forgotten something The biggest issue facing me really is the roof repair. I do eventually plan to re-roof it but that will be at a later point in my ownership. As of now I've already started to strip it down and I've sold some bits that I won't be using again (waste not want not) I'll be updating this once a week, usually a Sunday. Thanks for reading
  7. I'm trying to get to the bottom of the high idle I've got on my Mi16 engine (1.9 running normal Motronic ECU). I've checked the throttle switch and that seems to function fine, and the electrics are all good. I'm suspecting the throttle body plates aren't sealing as snuggly as they should when the throttle is shut. Am I right in thinking that at idle the throttle plates should be totally sealed shut and the idle relies on the air passing via the ISCV to get the air supply? So is there an easy way of testing how leaky the plates are?
  8. Hi, This is my first posting so apologies if it is in the wrong place etc. I am restoring my 1,9 Mi16 205GTI after 25 years of being stationary on the drive. I have found the exhaust manifold has cracked and is beyond a welded repair. Does anyone have any recommendations regarding manifolds. I don't think my engine has been tilted. It was built by Hartwell Racing in 1992 and I don't know the details of how they did the upgrade (car is with a garage at present so I can't check). There appears to be 2 manifold options: Spoox stainless steel manifold and one by Maniflow. I have heard the Maniflow one has fitment issues on some cars. Does anyone know if this is true or whether there are other options I can consider. Thanks
  9. Yes that's right. Essentially a total novice with high performance petrol engine building attempting a full build. What could possibly go wrong!!! Anyway! The last few weeks have been fantastic for both me and the 405 really. Today I picked up the next round of parts for it for 2019. Being as I can insure it in January the plan is to build a second engine for a later date. And this is it. What I've got so far is 1 complete s16 engine with a knackered water pump that I bought for 80 euro. a xu10j4 iron block from an s16 that has been bored, decked and honed to 86.5mm 1 mi16 cylinder head with unknown regrinds. 1 damaged Gti6 head that I may or may not knick the valve guides out of for the mi16 head Kent cam pulleys Wossner 12.5:1 high compression pistons Pts sump baffle Pug racing 4 branch exhaust manifold Jenvey 48s Spoox aluminium crank pulley(ordered) Obviously I'm missing valves, valve springs, lifters, rockers, conrods and a crank to name but a few. How ever the complete s16 engine can donate what's needed provided its in good condition. Once I get a chance to measure the cams it should help me figure out what lift they are Valve wise I want to go bigger 36.25mm intake and standard exhaust. But in all honesty I think I will leave this idea for a later big valve lairy 290 degree head. For the moment I'm think 1 piece stainless valves of standard size. Crank shaft leaves me a few options. Stay standard, go with a 88mm Hdi crank or an xud11 92mm crank. 88mm Hdi sounds like the best option to me here as they are easy come by and forged. Conrod wise I'd think pec forged rods might suit my application and keeping cost in mind. But if anyone has any suggestions for better quality rods in a similar price range. New or used I'm open to that. Hoping to make a start at preparing the head tomorrow with a mild port and polish just to tidy it up. I may even hand polish the outer casting to 2500grit no performance gains obviously but it will look the the job. Might give the block the same treatment. Since this is my first major engine build any advice is hugely appreciated, what's best practice, what tools to use What fasteners are best used and where to get them. What gaskets and seals should I use Has anyone got a service manual for an xu10j4, xu10j4 and a dw10(for crank specs)
  10. My 205 Mi16 (1.9 version running Motronic ECU, reangled standard manifold) has started to sound a bit agricultural on idle. I've attached an audio recording of it, with the mic placed behind the exhaust. The engine itself doesn't sound unusually noisy, but the lumpiness is noticeable. It sounds OK when revved as you'll hear in the recording. The roughness can also causes lots of vibrations in the car too, so I tend to give a little gas when stationary to lift it to 1500rpm or so to make it smoother and less annoying. Spark plugs and distributor cap & arm all seem fine, and are relatively fresh. Any ideas? Exhaust_180403_mono.mp3
  11. Hi everyone! I'm new here I've got a phase 1 405 mi16 that I want to for lack of a better term wake it up a little more! With everything else I have to do with the car before pugfest So budget is a big thing. What I'm thinking Gti6 intake manifold with ported and polished throttle body Gti6 exhaust manifold Omex ecu Coil pack conversion. I've a couple of questions though. Will the gti6 exhaust manifold clear the firewall in a 405? What else can I do that's not to extreme? Where can I find A full wiring diagram for a phase 1 mi16. I need to tidy up the engine bay wiring and remove a few things too. As for the engine I have further plans for later this year but that's a whole other story! Thanks for reading
  12. My 205 1.9 Mi16 has started to occasionally misfire, or least 'miss' in some way where it just suddenly flat-spots for a split second. It also occasionally back-fires, particularly on coasting. The power seems fine when accelerating, it's when I using light throttle is when it feels not quite right. I've got a new rotor arm and distributor cap, so they should be OK. The last time I looked at the plugs they looked OK, but ought to check again. Any thoughts?
  13. I've got a 205 1.9 Gti (1989 vintage) with an 1.9 Mi16 engine which uses the reangled exhuast manifold. My exhaust system has the two silencers, and has spouted a few holes now (been on the car many years). I recently tried patching up the holes, and after refitting I noticed that the system quite often knocks against the body. It's even worse now on refitting. So I think I'll buy a new mid and end section. However, I'm not entirely sure what I should be buying, as there seems to lots of options and most pictures are completely devoid of detail. My current system is joined via normal slide over tubes rather then with the olive-style joints. I've seen two types of rear silencer, a round one and an oval one. I've currently got the oval one, but can either type be used? Which is a better fit, as mine seems to be knocking against the side nearest the wheel? Any particular brands to buy or avoid? Not looking for expensive stainless system.
  14. Hi guys I've got an Mi16 on my bench which has spun the 2nd cylinder big end bearing. This is my first engine rebuild and first Peugeot so some advice is needed if possible. The crank pin of the second big end is ovalised, with the least worn area being 50.00mm (std) and the most worn at 49.56mm (most worn where piston is at peak and trough of stroke). The crank pin minimum limit for oversized Mi16 shells, after regrind, is 49.684mm, which would mean my crank pin is worn beyond service. I've seen T16 bearings come in +0.50mm and +0.80mm. Can these be used/ has anyone used these when their Mi's have gone through a chunk of crank? The area that is worn to less than the 49.684 limit is pretty small, probably about 15mm long, between the webs. It just seems a bit bodgy to have the crank ground to 49.68mm and have a section that is undersized still. I've also considered fitting an 8v crank as 16v ones seem hard to come by, does the lack of double-counterweights have a severe effect on anything? Any other advice? I think i'm going to replace the con rods anyway as the No2 rod is worn to almost 0.50mm bigger than the others. Any recommendations where to get these/ all other parts for reasonable prices? Student budgets make things tougher haha. Thanks in advance, Matthew.
  15. Hi all, i posted a while a go about finally gettting my 205 MI16 running on 16v management. I bought the car last year which was running on 8v. I contacted spoox to see what parts would be required and the list is as so: Mi16 engine harness Mi16ecu Mi16 air flow meter Mi16 injectors Link loom between the car & the engine harness Potentially a flywheel and crank sensor Cam adaptor Rotor arm Dizzy Cap Ignition leads Coilpack Does anyone have any of these parts that i can buy? ill stick an ad in the wanted section just in case. I am looking to get the car ready for march. She will e my track slag! Didn't get to use her last year as some idiot decided to rear end me at 70mph on the motorway! All advise welcome.
  16. After far too many years I've decided to give the car a cambelt change. The old one looked very good considering its been on there 8 years, but don't want to take risks. Anyway, currently trying to fit the new one and am not convinced I've got it on correctly. The cams and crank seem to be lined up correctly using the pins, but the tension of the belt doesn't feel right on the top run between the two camshaft spockets. It feels very loose, but I can't pull it any tighter as it's not quite a whole tooth stretch to do this. I suppose a good way of knowing whether I've got the belt on correctly is counting the teeth on the run between the two cam sockets. Would anyone know how many teeth I would expect to have if counting between the 12 o'clock position on each sprocket (assuming the engine in a vertical, not the normal tilted, position)?
  17. Folks, I need to replace the oil filler hose on my Mi16 engine. The pipework has been re-routed slightly as I have fitted throttle bodies and I'm using a generic bit of tubing at the minute. Does anyone know the diameter of the outlet on the engine and the outlet at the bottom of the plastic filler? Cheers.
  18. Hi, I'm after some advice for the exhaust on my track based 205. I'm finally getting to the point where I'm going to need to get the car mapped, but want to make sure the exhaust won't be holding it back before I do. Spec is as follows: - Rebuilt MI16 with block decked by 0.4mm (11:1 ish compression) - Newman PH4 Inlet cam, PH3 Exhaust cam - Sandy Brown/Colin Satchel inlet (lotus based 45mm throttle bodies) - GTi 6 injectors - 4-2-1 exhaust manifold (unknown brand), mated to standard ph2 exhaust (Bosal mid section & genuine pug silencer) - Dta S40 ECU I got it briefly fired up last weekend, and if I can get my laptop to connect to the bloody ECU properly then will hopefully have the cams run in this weekend, so it'll just need properly mapping. I'm hoping to make around 200bhp with this setup, but one thing I've overlooked is the exhaust. The manifold looks like your standard maniflow 4-2-1 effort so will probably be fine (although diameter of the primaries looks a little on the large size), but will the standard phase 2 exhaust be restricting this engine? I think I read that Maxi was running 216bhp on a GTi6 with some bodies and catcams installed and had a standard exhaust which would suggest that it'll be ok, but that's not saying it wouldn't have made more power with a larger exhaust. I'm not looking for an excuse to spend even more cash on this project (have spent a bloody fortune already!), but if the general consensus is that the a 2" exhaust is too small then it would be daft not to change it. If so what should I be looking at - 2.25" system? And any advice on a place to build / fit a quiet-ish manifold back system in the South London area? Thanks.
  19. Hi I am pretty new to engine modifications and am wanting to put a 1.6 crank and conrods in to an XU9J4RS block (with Mi16 head) but read somewhere that the 1.9 pistons (which I will have to use) wont go with the 1.6 rods. Does anyone know if this is true? Has any one done this conversion?
  20. Hello, I've got a small oil leak from the rocker cover, so will change the gasket. I was just wondering if anyone has used Spoox gaskets.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331075779327 ? Just seem a lot cheaper than others I've seen. And also have anyone used their spark plug seals.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181271614718 ? Thanks, Dean
  21. Hey guys, I was just wondering if anyone has had any issues with their Crank Sensor? as my 205 mi16 decided not to start the other day, so i took all the plugs out and none of them are sparking, iv had a mechanic look at it and he has sed that its most likely a bad crank sensor and a replacement is my best bet... Is this the right track or does anyone know anything else it could be? The engine is set up with throttle bodies and bike carbs with a single coil conversion, iv checked all 4 coils and connections but nothing is a miss :/ Thanks Cal
  22. Cal_Jones

    My New 205Gti Mi16

    Hey Guys, Iv always been into cars and iv had lots of them, some very fast some just completely insane, but for a long time iv wanted a 205gti but unfortunately im very picky and finding the right one for the right price has taken a while but iv recently bought one and i can honestly say i love it more than any car iv owned. Its so much fun and just a one of a kind car that i never want to part with lol. I heard about this forum from a friend so thought i would join . The car has had a lot of money spent on it over recent years such as - Full respray the original alpine white, 309 Rear end set up, GTi6 Brakes all round, Auto Bonnet, Full (Very Neat) Mi16 conversion with Throttle Bodies, GSXR1000 Bike Carbs, Emerald ECU with launch control and power/economy maps running 193bhp, Forged Pistons, Adjustable Cam Pulleys, Fast Road Cams, Bilstein Suspension, Refurbed Speedlines Dark Grey, Im not sure what the interior is but its full leather Black/Red with red carpets. Its an awesome bit of kit and extremely clean, the underneath is spotless with no sign of rust and i intend to keep it that way lol . I hope to take it to a few shows this year such as Pugfest and French Car Show, i may even let it see the track. Here are a few attached pics.
  23. Hi I have also finished my track car build but as many have I am stuck at the wiring stage. I got an mi16 engine loom with it but have been told it has been butchered and is not worth trying to rescue. Could I get some opinions as to whether you guys would agree? It appears some plugs have been cut. Plugs on there: 2 wires near ECU plug ECU Middle Parts Any help advice would be greatly appreciated. Is it salvagable? Cheers
  24. I have an mi16 engine in my 205GTi and for some reason at a certain throttle position it makes a squeaky almost whistley sound... when i bought it i knew the cam tensioner bearings needed changing which i did as they squealed at a certain RPM, So i changed those which did the trick however there is still a noise coming form the engine bay when my foot is so far on the throttle, its not at a certain RPM and the noise does not change pitch at different speeds. Its really bugging me lol and i hope iv explained it well enough so i don't confuse anyone... Any ideas would be much appreciated to save my sanity . Cal
  25. Hiya Guys Clutch has gone on my 205 Mi, its got a 1.6 be3 box - so i was thinking whilst the box is off I may as well add another upgrade to it So which is best lightened fly wheel and upgraded clutch to get and where is best to get them from ? Not really to arsed about the cost as I've got more money than sense - ha ha Any help would be much appreciated
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