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  1. Today
  2. Cheers Tom. I will power up the old laptop on which the software resides and have a look.
  3. Tom Fenton

    Yet another XU9/10 engine build

    Andy, I'm sure theres a table in the Emerald software somewhere for injection angle?
  4. Telf

    I'm back (after an 8 year break)

    welcome back
  5. Discostu

    I'm back (after an 8 year break)

    Hi damo. The plan is to keep it totally standard, needs a few bits and pieces doing to get it that way but on the whole its almost there. Will drive it on nice sunny days and do a few shows, other than that its gonna be a garage queen. The less said about the price I paid the better, it’s horrific. They’ve increased 10 fold lol.
  6. Afternoon. I have been doing some reading to update my understanding of the sequential injection protocols in the Emerald. The set up menu does not require input of cam timing data. Further, it does not suggest that the cam signal position is critical, but rather invites using a default value of 0 degrees. I will talk with Emeral tomorrow, but all the above leads me to suspect the the ecu uses the cam trigger signal to initiate the start of the injector firing cycle .At high rpm, when the valve is open for less time ( in ms) than the injector needs to remain open in order to fuel correctly, this is not important. However, at low rpm when the injector will need to fire for much lesstime than the inlet valve will be open, it would be nice if the injector firing and the valve opening coincided, as per the screenshots that Peter posted above. If this is indeed the case, then I think I can ‘fix’ it by fitting the tang on my inlet cam so that it is aligned with the hall sensor at exactly 30 degrees btdc . That will coincide with the inlet valve beginning to open. This is a bit of speculation , give that I have not talked with Dave Walker yet, but I will report back . I imagine that others on here will have used the K6 with sequential injection , so will have travelled this path before
  7. pugdamo

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Very similar has happened to me over this warm spell, mine has a massive crack down the front of the gear knob and the cap keeps falling out. If you try one of the repro gear knobs of anyone else has used them before could you let me know what they are like?
  8. pugdamo

    I'm back (after an 8 year break)

    Welcome back, yeah I remember you, i also remember your red 205. Congratulations on the new purchase, looks very nice, you got any plans for this one or just drive it as it is? Bet it was a bit of a shock at how the prices have creeped up over the last few years.
  9. I put mine on, and then undid them. The olive on the feed pipe pulled off almost immediately. The return one seems to have held. Off to Bridgecraft tomorrow to get a permanent job . When I did them up, the return tightened progressively, so I think that one is secure, but the feed did not behave similarly.I think the olive was too looose a fit on the pipe prior to tightening, so it did not clamp sufficiently
  10. Yesterday
  11. petert

    Xmt - Sarty's Xsara Mi16 Turbo

    Rich, here is a site you'll find very useful. http://www.turbofast.com.au/ Dave Walker put me in contact with Ray Hall many years ago. He's an absolute legend over here, although now retired.
  12. Hi guys, After selling my previous 205 GTi in 2010 I have finally got around to picking up another. Some of the user names on here I still recognise, maybe some of you remember me. I've had quite a few 205's over the years, most notably my white turbo (sold in 2008): And red GTi6 track car (sold in 2010): Anyway, my latest purchase is this 1992 Graphite Grey 1.9 GTi, 101k miles, 3 owners. Hopefully I will be able to contribute some useful information to the forum. It's great to be back Stu
  13. I've used those compression fittings on a gti6 rail, and they've been fine for the last couple of years
  14. dwainb1986

    205 mi16 conversion

    Slowly treated all the surface rust and painted the engine bay. I know its a slightly different shade but compared to the rust oil and dirt i think it looking good. Eventually when its due its respray il have the bay done to match the rest . Just having the sunframe coated at the min new arms drop links etc will soon be fitted and i will update more pics .
  15. Greengti1

    V6 overheating....

    Thanks very much for the suggestions. I will give filling from the temp sensor a go. The person who started the conversion has positioned the brake mater cylinder where the standard header tank should be hence the Volvo tank in the scuttle... Thanks again. Adam
  16. And the oil feed to the balance shafts must be blocked to prevent the oil pressure light coming on
  17. Honestly thought after all this time an ew12 expert would have surfaced. Has anyone removed balancing shafts on one and had the gear wheel cut out then balanced the crank. From experience the vibration with out the balance shaft is very very noticeable.
  18. Someone needs to build one and do a comparison. The 205 and the 306 shared engines. The TU. The 306 and the 206 shared engines, the TU and the DW10 diesel. It really isn't nearly as difficult as you guys make it sound. Find a person to fabricate engine mounts where required. Consider the ew12 and ew10 the same for starters. So gearbox,shafts,mounting points are interchangeable. The early 206 was not multiplex so a gti ecu with a gti head or from what I've heard just gti cam carriers, will get rid of Vvt, an inlet manifold from the 206 gti or alloy ew12 with throttle bod are pre plex. For the cable operated throttle, the early Peugeots had an electric potentimeter which did the cable to electric conversion. A speedo cable box into the gearbox may work and the engine speed sensor should also may be 205 compatible if a early 206 gti one is used.
  19. Biggles

    Is it worth it ? And should I buy it

    Where's it been sat for 5 years ? If it looks they way you describe, how solid is it underneath ?... I'm with Welshpug.
  20. That reminds me. I read a paper some time ago that discussed some engine dyno results on a Vauxhall XE 16 valve engine . It was done at an engineering department in a University in Ireland . Anyway , the conclusion concurs almost precisely with your post, but until I had read your post, I did not understand why. That is, at high rpm/ full throttle , the difference in engine output between fully and semi sequential injection was within the measurement error, ie negligible . Different story at low to medium rpm, as you say above
  21. ian010778

    1989 1.6 cherry red refurbishment

    Well that was a surprise! After being away for a few weeks and sorting out the air con' on the 206cc I put a couple of hours aside to assess the 205 and do a couple of jobs in preparation for removing the engine. The downpipe was still attached and I hadn't put the hubs back in the wishbones following the gearbox removal - THAT IS ALL I PLANNED TO DO TODAY. However, after removing the downpipe the whole engine moved what I thought to be a significant amount and seeing as I'd only been out about 10 minutes I cracked on. Now clearly I hadn't planned this as I wanted to hoist the engine out using my garage beams and the car only had three wheels attached in the above photo so I had to have a think and decided to jack the front end up higher and bring the engine out through the bottom. In the above, the rear and top engine mounts are still attached too but I didn't want to leave it like this as it'll be a couple of weeks 'til I get back on it. So, I had to think about supporting the engine, making a controlled descent and being able to move it into the garage once clear of the car - this is what happened. Not ideal but it was all I had to hand and after packing a load of cushions around the jack I went for it. I undid the rear engine engine mount first and then the three 16mm bolts on the top engine mount. Everything came off really easy - almost as though the car was ready for me to get on and make some proper progress! The wood held long enough as I slowly let the jack down but gave up just as the fly wheel end touched down and the jack released the full weight. Fortunately nothing was and the sump looks fine with no dents (PHEW!) with the exception of the bottom gearbox mounting bolt getting bent as the flywheel end took the weight temporarily but with everything that could have gone wrong I'm counting that as a win! Note: the bolt was in situ as I'm putting all hardware back in its hole where possible so I can keep track of what goes where when I purchase the new hardware and re-assemble. So the engine is now in the garage, (kinda) re-united with the gearbox and the car now looks like the crappiest monster truck ever with a massive sad mouth. Also, decision was made today to take the dash out so that will be the next job over a few evenings next week. This will enable me to remove the engine bay wiring looms and do a proper job under there :-)
  22. Wow. Thanks for this Peter. I now need to look at the section in the 63 page Emerald guide . I think that I will need a chat with Dave Walker , who developed the Emerald, as I am sure that the guide does not go into this much detail, but merely offers the option of sequential injection .
  23. Indeed Dr Sarty. The same delema faced by 55 Chev owners, who can't decide whether to put in a 283, 302,305,307,327,350,396,427,454,LS1,LS2,LS6 or LS7 and all the sub-varieties within.
  24. jeremy

    Is it worth it ? And should I buy it

    Potentially you could end up buying a complete box of spanners. For that price it needs to be seen running with an MOT. Just with the limited details you could easily double the price putting those things right.
  25. PeterT i´ll try to confirm everything by the end of next week, when i have more time available!!!
  26. Advance the cam around to 102º to begin with. However, a 0.7mm Cometic head gasket would be best. What lift @ TDC does it have? What does the ignition map look like?
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