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  3. Hi, I am new to the Peugeot 205 GTIs. I have a 1.6 with EFI hatch. 3 door. The engine starts but dies after 2 seconds. The throttle pedal is not responsive at first. After a few crank-start-die sequences, the car picks up and idles at 1000rpm. Just to mention, I have the wrong distributor on the car. i.e the distributor was picked from a 1.6 carb and the vacuum canister is bust. so no vacuum. I cannot seem to get a refurbished dizzy with vacuum canister as they are rare to find, so am told. So, if you have one hit me up, you may save me the hustle! Anyways, if there is none out there, I would like to upgrade to a coil pack with an aftermarket ECU. At least to control the ignition only then still use the stock EFI, AFM with ECU (Budget restrictions) I came across a NODIZ pro ignition kit with 36-1 trigger wheel, sensor, 4 - coil pack, loom, ECU and brackets. Am not sure if someone has done this and is willing to guide me through the whole process to mapping. In theory, there would be 2 ECUs on the same engine. Are there other more compatible EDIS brands available to choose from? Is this problem unique? I am new to this, please guide me adequately. I would like to drive the car every day to and from work and use it over the weekends for a bit of speed 120kph is good enough for me! Budget not exceeding 1000 pounds. Value for money!
  4. welshpug

    3rd Gear grind advice

    they are not a difficult transmission to do, I did my own for the very same fault, on mine the spring clip had broken, I found it stuck to the magnet that is inside the case. I made a thread about it too. the Haynes workshop manual does a pretty decent job of covering it also.
  5. ob2s

    3rd Gear grind advice

    Thanks, I assume of course the transmission will be dropped and I would take it to a transmission shop ? I hope I can find one that isn't scared away by Peugeot. Many places won't even let me in the door. I may try cable validation and some new oil first.
  6. welshpug

    3rd Gear grind advice

    wont need a new transmission, just a 3/4tg gear synchro
  7. Thanks for the reply! Yes that does make sense, in my head I was thinking the issue I have is the M/C is maxing out and the amount of fluid it can physically displace at full travel is not enough to move all the pistons out very far, the rear pistons having less surface area are moving out more than the front hence why it feels the back is trying harder. As I was going to change the rear calipers anyway maybe its worth fitting the 406 M/C at the same time- I haven't looked into compensators what do people normally use/recommend as a retrofit solution?
  8. Thijs_Rallye

    3rd Gear grind advice

    What oil viscosity is in the box and is the clutch cable adjusted properly?
  9. Two things that immediately jump out: 1. Your 19mm non-GTi MC is going to be too small with the front and rear calipers you're running, and will give you a lot of pedal travel. I'm not sure even a 406 MC will be large enough with 1.6 calipers on the rear, but it should be much better. 2. Without some kind of compensator / bias valve, I suspect that you're going to have too much rear brake effort and the car will lock the rears up before the fronts. I've not tried using 1.6 calipers on the rear and the significantly larger pistons that brings with it, but certainly a 266mm front brake setup like a C2 VTS coupled with standard 205/306 rear calipers is very effective, even with standard pads.
  10. Telf

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Not today but yesterday- Taxed it after a month off the road. It was a nice dry day so went for a spin to a local pub. Went shopping, watched people looking at the car and taking photos. Realised the driving light bulb was blown. Got home, dismantled the lamp. Found some rust on the reflector. Took both off, ( both rusty! after a year!)treated and now waiting for the paint to dry. Just a typical 205 kind of day really!
  11. Hi! I have upgraded all the brakes on my 205 and the brakes hardly slow the car, like almost not at all! The pedal is incredibly light and almost goes to the floor but fully down it feels like there is only around 10% braking force when i' m standing on the pedal, it doesn't actually hit the floor as if there was just air in the system. The rears will just about lock up on a wet road if i give it a lot of force but it doesn't seem like there is a lot happening up front. I have bled it manually and with an air bleeder and gone through a few litres of fluid. I have read loads of posts and gathered a lot of information but the setup I have is quite different to most. -base model master cylinder/servo (19mm I believe- so same as all models except late 1.9GTI) -front from 1.1 brakes to C2 VTS discs and calipers (54mm caliper pistons- for reference standard 1.9GTI front are 48mm) -rear from 1.1 drums to 1.9 rear discs using 1.6GTI front calipers (48mm pistons- again for reference standard 1.9GTI rear are 30mm) The rear calipers I will change to standard 1.9GTI anyway as i can't use a cable handbrake, the setup came with the 1.9GTI axle which only used hydraulic handbrake, the car it came off also had a twin master cylinder pedal box. I also have no rear brake compensator valve which a 1.9GTI with rear discs would have. (do I really need this??) I have several theories but I sometimes overthink and end up over complicating things, if anyone here who is familiar with 205 braking systems and upgrades or had overcome something similar please let me know- my next step I was thinking of changing to a pre-99 406 Master cylinder but if this isn't going to make much difference I would rather not waste the money, time and more brake fluid! (I see from the forum that some say upgrading to this makes the pedal better, some say it makes no noticeable difference) TIA!!!! Ash
  12. Spirited down shifts in my 1.9 from 4th to 3rd result in an unnerving expensive sounding crunch, which leads me to think of the synchros. Will I need a new transmission ? The car only has 45k miles on it, but that doesn't seem to have benefitted me as much as I thought it would. I'd hate to have a transmission shipped to the US. Suggestions ? Thanks
  13. It was running great until I replaced the o ring (I forgot before to do it). All I did was pull it out and put back in and now it dies on idle. I will work on it later as it is parked a ways away, but it is only proof of my touch of turd. Thanks
  14. Will Eastman

    Looking For H623Cmh Red

  15. Last week
  16. Gohn, Good to see you have a solution. The 309 models are not very common here. I have an SR and an SRi. ( XU5 1C and XU5 JA engines) I haven't seen any diesels. There are more of the 1.9 GTi but even those are a rare sight. They were expensive cars in NZ in the late 80's and early 90's. Also French products fell out of favour here after the bombing of the Rainbow Warrior by French agents. I missed it all. I was living in Brisbane at the time. FastFrogs has a Facebook page and fastfrogs.co.nz has a website (it is a bit slow there at present).
  17. Weird going ons there, I have strange electrical faults as well. Hope you have a multimeter to help trace faults, you won’t get far without one. My advice is rectify each problem one at time paying attention to corroded terminals and earthing points. As for the alternator light, you should have 12v. coming out of The small ign./exciter alternator terminal when the engine is running, that will extinguish the ignition lamp in the dash. Check wire continuity from the The terminal to the ignition dash Light.
  18. and 4. Check the small vacuum pipe is connected to the bottom of the throttle body.
  19. AlexRS2782

    Coolant/expansion bottle

    Thinking about it - mine's a '91 Phase 2 and looks like it would probably have had a black tank from new - although i know there might still have been some crossover from the phase 1.5's. As i changed to a new tank / sensor shortly after buying the car i wonder whether the white tank had been dropped in as a replacement earlier in the life of the car? Hence why i've had no issues with the sensor / connector block, etc, once the new tank went in.
  20. As above, the spade terminal doesn’t need to be connected. 1. check the two fuel lines are the right way round. 2. Check there’s plenty of charge in the battery or the tachymetric relay won’t operate. starter motor needs to spin up to at least 350rpm. to operate the relay which in turn operated the fuel pump and ignition system, and then the speed sensor kicks in. 3. Increase idle speed and see if it runs longer.
  21. Thijs_Rallye

    Won’t keep running

    Camshaft timed correctly? SAD connector not interchanged with the engine temp connector? This spade connector in your picture is for a radio interference suppressing capacitor, does not have any effect on your issue.
  22. Hi we replaced head gasket on our 205 gti and have it all built up again but it just won’t keep going every time we try to start it will go every other time for a couple of seconds then some times when throttle is pushed down hard it will run longer but then cuts out , have checked all the plugs are sparking fine and have plenty of fuel, any ideas , also there is a spare spade wire coming from the coil loom beside the coil plug but can’t see anywhere for it to go , maybe a spare
  23. The original is black on my phase 1.5 grey. Not sure if mine has been changed since factory? but I'm assuming it hasn't. The surface finish isn't that much textured either so a black print wouldn't look much different to the original. I have bought some textured finish black paint to experiment on the grey one, just waiting for a nice day and time to do it. It should fill the steps on the draft angle too, though it wouldn't be much of a loss if i end up removing them as they're only 2° and you can barely notice them.
  24. I did check the cable size was ok, was a bit worried about that and the current drain was with ignition off key out I thought about thumping that little pivot bolt steel bush to get a roomier fit, but just thought Id end up breaking another alternator, so went with the file I think some of the problems with upscaling to a higher altntr amperage is because some people get massive stereos and computer screens and go from like 50A to 300A, then your old cable cant cope but not a problem in my case, Im so frugal on power usage I dont think I'll ever need the 80A max on the little mitsubishi bryan, I'd already sourced a new regulator and installed it. unfortunately it turned out to be a diode problem and I found that out the hard way - killed a brand new expensive battery (did you get the 309 in NZ ? any diesel versions ?)
  25. A Bosch agent should be able to supply a regulator/brushes set for your Bosch alternator. You might be able to give the commutator a bit of a cleanup while it is apart. I haven't watched right through but this link shows the type of set I referred to.
  26. pug_ham

    Coolant/expansion bottle

    The connector is the same but it as three wires for the later type sensor, the third wire isn't present on the earlier car wiring loom & I'm not sure if the haynes covers the different sensors. g
  27. i would check the size of cable fitted is the same for an 80A one, You never know it may be thicker or even doubled up? Presuming alls well with cable sizing it wont be a problem the regulator will regulate it for You. if Your having to buy a new battery get the biggest poss that fits the space, I think its an 027( what we call that size here) it wont have any bother at all. Some versions had that 80A alternator, but the biggest i have ever had in my hands from a diesel was the 70A. Was the current draw with the ignition switched off/key out? They do draw current with the ignition switched on but the engine not running. Its the initial exciter current for the rotor coil, that's what makes the warning light illuminate. The female threaded steel bush for the pivot bolt can be adjusted by carefully bashing it in or out of the Al lug to suit minor variations in mounting width. https://www.puretyre.co.uk/car-battery-specification-chart/
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