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XU10J4 ACAV with XU10J4RS intake / exhaust manifold?
welshpug replied to Tseize's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
mi16 doesnt have a shove mid range, more a lack of bottom end, gti6 has more torque, and over a wider band. I have fitted a gti6 inlet to a 2.0 mi16 in a 205, never had it mapped or dynod but it went well, no comparison to the acav inlet unfortunately as the engine was supplied bare. -
i believe colin satchell went the other way, to keep the simple 1-2 3-4 gates, longest BE final drive possible, i think a 3.6 or thereabouts, even had a 5th gear lockout.
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Just thought, what gearbox ratios etc are you using, what gear do you go over the 1/4 in? We deliberately geared the mini so it was just about flat out in 4th (out of 4) over the line, obviously shorter gears is better acceleration. A shorter final drive maybe, from rally experience there are quite a range out there for BE boxes if that’s what you are still using? Up to 5.0something :1 out of an Expert van is the shortest. The other thing we had was a really long 1st, otherwise the short final drive makes 1st useless, it will only do say 20mph. However in your case maybe you could then launch in 2nd and use 2-3-4-5 instead.
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Just a brief update, i decided to ditch the gearbox ideas for now. The current plan in true Jeremy clarkson fashion “ more powwwwwer” im going to be running new fuel in the form of nitro rc car fuel. 25% nitro. I’ve upgraded all my fuel system so it can run alcohol based fuels, fitted a large fuel pump ( Weldon). 900 cc injectors and bought some ngk 7 and 8 spark plugs to see which ones it likes. Dyno day will be booked soon to see what it makes. Any guesses to what power it might produce?? I’m hoping it’s in the 340 to 350 range which should( if the transmission holds it) see me into the 10’s. I’ve had a new logo made too which I think is pretty cool. I’ll post that below. I will update after the dyno day.
- Yesterday
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XU10J4 ACAV with XU10J4RS intake / exhaust manifold?
petert replied to Tseize's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
It is indeed difficult to adapt the exhaust manifold and not worthwhile. I made an adaptor wedge plate many years ago, to suit a 205. However, you’re better off just buying a new 4-2-1 long pipe design. http://www.taylor-eng.com/conversion/conversion_parts.htm -
XU10J4 ACAV with XU10J4RS intake / exhaust manifold?
SRDT replied to Tseize's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
You can't fit the RS exhaust manifold on the ACAV head as is. It's probably easier to sort out the 9/10 studs problem on a XU9J4 manifold. Many aftermarket ones have the double pattern. -
XU10J4 ACAV with XU10J4RS intake / exhaust manifold?
petert replied to Tseize's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I would just swap inlet manifolds to begin with and retain the standard XU10J4 injectors. I have a replacement chip for the ECU that makes a nice difference. I sell them to enthusiasts for just cost + shipping. Later, if you decide to swap cams, crank etc. then change the injectors and ecu. -
XU10J4 ACAV with XU10J4RS intake / exhaust manifold?
Tseize posted a topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I have not found exactly the same conversion in among the different topics, so that's why I opened this one. I am thinking of buying such an XU10J4RS intake manifold that has got already the necessary small adjustments for fitting it to RFT/RFY engines. Plus the GTI6 injectors. And at the end an engine remap, of course. But basically I do not intend to buy the exhaust mainfold unless it is really needed. Pros: You can get rid of the usage of the unbuyable ACAV membranes (even if I like them). It is a strong reason. More power? (Or only at higher revs?) I was told (by the seller ) that you can feel the difference even in a basic setup (without exhaust manifold and remap). Cons (or at least these are my fears): Lost of mid-range punch? The ACAV is like having a (very) small turbo boost effect at around 3500 RPM, that's cool. Because of the resonator in the intake should you change the exhaust manifod as well otherwise the mid-range torque will be poorer than in the standard engine? Or is it not necessary due to the different cylinder heads? As I read the XU10J4RS has got quite a few other modifications in the cylinder head compared to the ACAV (I do not care about the ones in the bottom end ), so I do not expect at all that this change alone would entirely cover the gap in the power between ACAV and RS, but at least spending ~800 EUR you would like to see some noticeable gains. IMHO the rolling road figures of an original XU10J4RS are not extraordinary compared to my old, but rebuilt ACAV engine (90.9 kW @wheels measured several times on different dynos). And yes there are other ideas in my mind for the next year, like the discussed XU9 crankshaft (but I do not intend to touch the bottom end until there is no problem), or some professional headwork, or the proposed milder KENT or Cat cams could give 10-12 extra bhp after remap, so maybe this latter would be a more cost effective approach. -
Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Rear suspension height full tank and up on ramps , 90mm both sides, camera makes the gap look bigger than it is . -
Barn Find Laser Green 1.9 Gti.
Leslie green replied to Leslie green's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Been out a few more runs got about 900 mile done now , the oil leak is still there , not really investigated much as it seems to only appear after a few days not dripping when its hot as far as I can see and as oil spreads it not much at all . Plenty of really heavy rain today and no leaks on the roof as far as I can see . Car is running fine and currently working at least 60 hrs a week I just don't have time to sort anything just now ,I have noticed the speedo needle bounces quite a bit at 40 -50 mph as I guess the cable needs greased but it has a difficult bendy path to the clocks and might not be following the right route up the column. Can i take the cable wire out at the gearbox end I cant remember ? The fuel gauge seems a bit optimistic off too I had 235 mile done on a tank of super unleaded and it said over half full still , I think it would only get 300 mile to a tank. I did consider replacing the fuel pump with a genuine bosch one as it did seem to loose power for a sec at 5k and if it happens again I may do , problem is most of these miles are stuck at 45 mph in traffic where it wont show up. Oh and I near went from 5th into reverse one day while trying for 4th , I heard the gear grind , seems all to easy on a be3 so must be more careful as I drive 4 speed and 6 speed cars regularly . -
Another good update , also got a drivers bolster is the worse for wear but the drivers seat cloth isn't great either .I was planning on changing the whole cushion though as I often wondered would the bolster stay glued on for long .I think with sills its hard to get a clean join halfway along which is why id tend to fit a complete one but as you say its only a little bit at the back . Also given the price ropey resto projects are making now I don't think there will be many broken anymore ,those days have gone ! I need some tunes in mine too but GTi Clarions are rare , I do have a kenwood 6 cd changer from the ninties I might fit ,I know its not right lol !At the minute there are a bunch of wires sticking out the slot with no plug on . I checked the torsion bars on mine today they are 19.17mm /19.22 as best I could measure without getting burned on a hot exhaust ,they have a thin powdercoat so probably right for a Gti . I checked the top of the rim flange to plastic arch and it was 90mm either side while up on ramps at the back and brimmed with fuel loading down the axle and tbh it looks grand but when its in the garage on a sloping floor the drivers is 25mm lower so made it look worse on that side. Might move it up a bit to either 315mm or 318mm in the winter when its offroad for a little more travel .
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The only thing you can do is look up the last 2 letters of the reg, this gives you the area the car was originally registered in, so will narrow it down a bit. However generally they are a wide district that might have had half a dozen dealers in, so potentially it’s one of those but hard to determine which. This one is CA which is Chester, obviously this was the office that Knutsford came under, but also probably a good few other dealers.
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Other than the obvious books etc in with the car , is there any way of finding where / which dealer supplied a car ? A few of mine came with nothing and the shell came .bare but would be nice to do what your planning and take them back to their original starting points
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I think its correct for that period, first reg 1/8/88 so it would have been one of the first F reg on the road, so built first half of 88 at a guess. I don't think the wings changed until 1989, when the BE3 gearbox and check cloth etc came along. This car is BE1 box and the older style clutch release lever. A bit of interesting (maybe?!) info was that is was supplied by a dealer Barber of Knutsford, still has some of its dealer info with it. Out of interest I tried to search the internet and see what I could find out about Barber, the answer was very little. I found a Facebook group of Knutsford town history and so posted on there to see if anyone remembered where the dealer would have been etc. Got loads of great replies, the dealer is no longer a car dealer, but the petrol station forecourt is still there, and as it happens I've been past it a couple of times. More interestingly was a guy that replied to say he'd worked there, and that it was very likely it was either him or his mate that would have done the PDI on this car when new. He recalled that there was a mix up with number plates and two cars, this being one, went out with a mix of number plates front and rear! They had to get them back and sort it out obviously! I had thought that when it is done, I might go for a ride to Knutsford in it, and take it back to where the dealer was. I love to know some history of the cars, maybe just me. I'm lucky that with a few of my cars I do know quite a bit of the history of them. Anyway. Ran her up last night, it starts and runs well with a bit of adjustment to the throttle body idle stuff. I haven't run it for long, as the new rings really need to be run under load to bed them in, letting it idle for any length of time won't really do it any good at all. Thankfully most of the fluids seem to be staying in their intended places. I say most because it seems the PAS pump has sprung a leak and is pissing PAS fluid out. To be fair it was a used pump of unknown age and tbh I can't even remember where it came from. So expecting a lot really for it to be OK, although often they are. I've ordered a new one anyway which I'll fit when it arrives. With that done, I turned to a check of a few other things with a forthcoming MOT in mind. Usual 205 fayre such as the front washer pump not working, pretty standard. However the rear of the drivers side sill had been bugging me a bit, the returned lip looking like a prod would make it fall to bits, and lo and behold it did. Whilst you are doing it and all, so I've ordered a sill and a lower quarter panel repair section to sort it out. I think maybe doing the rear half of the sill will be enough, join it in the door aperture somewhere, I don't see the point of disturbing the rest of the factory spot welds and sealer if I don't need to. I didn't want to start grinding and fabrication work with the engine in bits, so now that is done, this bit of bodywork is next. I'll sort the washers out in due course as well, I fitted some new wiper blades as the ones on the car must be over 10 years old and rock hard. Running through my list of other stuff, I've a few outstanding odds and ends to tie up, but the drivers seat outer thigh bolster was desperate, the leather actually OK but the foam felt like it was dropping to bits. I had a search through my stuff and found I'd saved a used good bolster foam some years before, so decided to fit that into the seat for now. Call me a weirdo but I'd rather dismantle and repair a gearbox than a seat, but it did go OK! I've got some hog rings and pliers which do make things a lot easier, the bread knife out of the kitchen maybe a bit more left field choice of tool but works quite well here for cutting the old foam away. The seat does want some stitching repair to the upper part of the cover, but that can be done at a later date, the bolster repair at least makes it a bit more useable for now, and moreso will make sure I don't damage the leather where it was rubbing on the steel frame.
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L Reg Miami Gti Restoration
chris 417 mi replied to chris 417 mi's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Yeah that was a bit of a miscommunication, he thought i didn't want it taking out and i thought he was taking it out, ill get it home in the next 2-3 weeks and go from there. Shouldn't be too bad to remove and i f needs be he's happy to sort any bits that need further work Sent you a PM on facebook @Henry Yorke -
I have reset the height of my 309, 22mm TBars, distance between the shock absorbers bolts measured 320mm and looks to be at the stock height No need to undo the shocks, put a jack under the rear drum and adjust to get the correct measure between the shock bolt centres I run the standard anti-roll bar and handles very well indeed This is a picture before the final adjustment, the car is about an inch higher at the rear now, just don't have an up dated picture yet
- Last week
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L Reg Miami Gti Restoration
Henry Yorke replied to chris 417 mi's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Nice to see something happening with the shell. I'd forgotten about this. Suprised you didn't take the glass out of the boot before painting as fitting a boot seal will be fun and I have often found that a little bit of rust in the bottom corners is usually hiding a lot more beneath -
Good effort. Something to be proud of. Hopefully see it out and aboy soon. Phase 1 wings and a phase 1.5 boot? It must have been quite a cutover car.
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Interesting to hear a different (totally valid) viewpoint, to me this was never a breaker being not messed about with and quite original, but I guess to some it might have been. Beam I set to 312mm which is my usual to match Eibach springs. Usually sits them just right. A couple of thoughts, are yours definitely GTI torsion bars 18.9mm, there are 18.5 and 18.1mm bars out there, doesn't sound much but they are a lot softer. The other thought, what rear dampers, some seem to be too short for a 205 so you end up pre loading the torsion bars even at a lower ride height.
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Are you talking about the radiator fan switch? Spade terminals will "work", or convert to a 3 pin junior power timer plug which are easy to get, and the later type switch.
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really great thread tom with huge amount of work all condensed, good pics too all the way ! not showy just really solid work with good tip on brakes, body, everything I've never opened a gearbox proper so seeing inside makes it more approachable awesome wheels never seen in the flesh over here encouraging to see not even a corroded block caused barely a pause
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With the engine back in bits, obviously stereo is very important so I fitted some replacement rear speakers. The originals absolutely pumped. So with all the bits here I set about the engine, again. I decided I didn't dare take the risk of just doing the 1 liner seal, so ended up pulling them all. As it happens the other 3 were OK but I couldn't face going round this loop again if another was no good. And with it all reassembled, I'll put fluids in it later and fire it back up to put myself back where I was about a week ago :/
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petert replied to Kenballs's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Sounds like a bodge all round. It will never run properly on an 8V ECU. Invest in a new ECU. It will run the 16V, as it should, probably even better. It will be money well spent, especially considering the value of the car now.
