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- Past hour
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thanks david, all makes sense I warmed it up found the tab you referred to and starting in with a very small flathead it has a little bit of give, but then I bottled it! I hate breaking things I can't see it bending enough to come off think I'll try buy the trim on its own
- Yesterday
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m4d_mike changed their profile photo
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If you get the cap warm, as the plastic will be brittle, there is a lug on the trim which lips over the cap. Very gently, ease that lip away and up from the cap edge. With that lifted up, push the trim back, as there is a shoulder on the cap behind the key part which the trim locates in. The trim should then just push off. Hope this makes sense.
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Steven Bone joined the community
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Yes it does have the same 60-2 ring pattern but the Mi16 flywheel uses a bigger 215mm clutch plate & cover. g
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Hi Damir! Sure thing! Been searching on the web and i found just what you said , i found one from the 405 MI16 does it share the same teeth pattern?
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Yep, comes in useful as I'm starting another project soon. Mot man found one of my ring spanners still attached to one of the lower arm nuts
- Last week
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Billet intake manifold
Spesh replied to Canadian dave's topic in XU 16v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
would it not be benificial to smooth the corners (especially in 1 and 4) into curves if your going to the expense of machining it? -
Cheers Mei, yeah it was up in the air. I followed the instructions and did one side easily, everything came apart no trouble but the arm just won't move ! I think I'll just get it off and rebuilt cheers
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the 320mm measurement is with the vehicle raised and the trailing arm weight taken up, NOT when its sat on the floor...
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sounds like you need a new beam if it is seized. did you remove the plate from the anti roll bar then refit it before doing the other side? Miles at pugracing is not too far from you and knows 205's very well, or try Stefan over in Dorset, he does beams too.
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Good result now you are ready for the road again
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V9PER joined the community
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Hi guys, I went to lower my rear end using the guide on here as it looks really high ? I did one side no problem but the other arm is jammed solid ? Is it new beam time ? I saw somewhere on here the measurement between the nuts on the damper should be around 320mm ? I measured that and both sides were pretty much that give or take a couple of mm but still sitting like this ? thanks
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Been a good day today, had alignment checked and adjusted then went for an MOT, it passed, just an advisory on one of the numberplate lights not working but I’ve already fixed that. Had a bit of a panic when the front washers didn’t work during the test, I forgot to connect up the pipe to the connector under the corner of the bonnet but the mot man fixed for me. Next to do is a big clean up, a wash and polish.
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Burning smell - help me to solve it?
wildejon replied to wildejon's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
To update, this was a jammed blower fan and the burning smell was the motor burning out... sorted -
moxham.john@tiscali.co.uk joined the community
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cheers, they are a direct swap, the cap with the flat GTi trim used to have the sawtooth trim on it originally maybe one of the tinkerers out there will know how to git it orff without damage
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CloyolaQ changed their profile photo
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Brake Discs/Pads on 1.3 Rallye
SweetBadger replied to kostas205's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
1.9 calipers are a direct swap for 1.6 - keep the same disc. If your 1.6 calipers are in good order then stick with them and see how you get on. If you are only going to use them for the odd trackday then I'd advise getting a dedicated set of pads and discs for use on track only. Something like the CL RC5+ would be a good bet for pads. Then just swap discs / pads over before your trackday, then back again for the road. That way you don't wear out an expensive track focused pad from daily driving. You could just swap the pads over and use the same discs, but if you do that then you have to worry about bedding in the pads each time you swap them over. Given the low price of standard discs better to run a dedicated set for the track. -
Brake Discs/Pads on 1.3 Rallye
kostas205 replied to kostas205's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Υeap that's true 1.6 calipers are pretty light and I want to stick with them because of this. Rotating mass on the wheels in general, is at low weight levels because I am using C5 one's (4.8kg each). I use my 205 as a daily, so it won't pushed everyday on the track...but when I push it I don't want to run out of brakes after 5 minutes. It's not that the braking power dissapoints me on the contrary is very good. The thing I want to improve is the duration of this braking power. If these 5 minutes become 10 I will be a happy person. And that's the reason I am lookig for a better pad. 1.9 calipers will fit to a 1.6 arm? If yes, what disc is used? 1.9 or 1.6? -
Had my 205 xs for a few years and a few months it developed a very annoying starting issue. So on a dry day car starts as expected for a manual choke 205, but on a wet/damp morning it'll initially start fine and i'll get it backed out of the garage but when i go to drive away it'll stall. Then if it doesn't start first go i can't get it started. Pretty stumped on this one as when a check it has spark and fuel but just won't start. Will tease you by firing occasionally on a couple of cylinder.. Then a couple of hours later it'll start up all good.. And it really is a damp/wet day problem, if it's just rained a little over night and is just a bit damp in the morning it'll bog down really badly when you accelerate but if you keep it from stalling it's all good and once the engine is up to temperature runs great. Once or twice on really rainy days i've had it bog down when accelerating. Over summer we have long dry spells and car starts sweet as every day.. Coming to the end of summer here and thinking it to be great to get to the bottom of this before winter. Would be great to here your thought on this. cheers, neil
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It does come off because I had mine off when it was repainted. I seem to recall it just pops off but it was not me who did it and so am not 100% sure. If nobody comes back with exactly how it comes off I will touch base with the guy that did it and find out for you. Whether you can swap one kind for another i would have no idea.
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haven't a clue henry's correct, I had no idea what a gutmann was til you asked nice little car though any more detail on what's in and on it ? good luck
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Has any bod removed one of these fuel cap trims ? I'd like to remove the flat GTi version and put on the sawtooth standard one but I've never done it before and don't wanna break anything (fettle it for a bit ? a hammer, small one maybe ?) there does not appear to be any obvious release points so outta ideas, bit like the glovebox lock actually..
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1987 1.9 GTI not starting. How to check fuel pump?
Joecar replied to Joecar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Today I checked the ground connection at the front of the car, near the radiator. That one is in really bad condition, also some of the cables are busted open so I will have to re-do these cables and the whole ground connector (it's pretty corroded and one pin broke when. pulled the plug off. Any tips for sourcing a new terminal, plug and wire to re-do these ground connections? -
Torode55 joined the community
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yeah O riginal Damir ! CAPITALISM IS FLAT OUT THEFT best just leave it go at that anyway, the old originals look so basic, like that too if the car I bought didn't already have aftermarket shocks on I never would have been able to test them against the OE ones I previously wouldn't have thought they were obsessive about anything - except maybe their image been driving on the little OE shocks for years and always loved the feel but now that I've had the chance to properly compare against some silly aftermarket ones I realise just how good the originals are superb
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Andy Barton changed their profile photo
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Pretty sure all the distributor-less XU flywheels have that same 60-2 teeth/triggering pattern . Late XU5 and XU7 engines would be best as an 60-2 flywheel donor i'd say , shouldn't weight much more than the 1.6 GTi item if not the same weight . 406/Xantia's with 1.6/1.8 engines will have them . D
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Rear Shock Absorbers Koni v Original
DamirGTI replied to Gohn's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Interestingly , with a bit of investigating , those are actually OE shocks ! Seems like Peugeot made them over here back in the days , 1.3 millions of shocks yearly , some Peugeot cars where assembled here too like 305/504/505's in that same factory ... i do remember we used to make quite a lot of parts for French cars and the complete cars (Renault's and Citroen's mainly) . D -
Sam Whittington joined the community
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Rear Shock Absorbers Koni v Original
DamirGTI replied to Gohn's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
And people still say communism was crap ! was no ideal , but by far was so much better for regular working class people than this neo-capitalism .. see we made something back then ! ... nowadays we're making just massive unemployment . Anyhow , those are actually aftermarket shocks not the OE . Peugeot was particularly obsessive compulsive with the shocks , so they setup making them by themselves in the factory , hence the reason they're the best you can get if you can find some "old stock" . Never had Koni's myself , but driven a few mates cars with them and always found them a bit stiff/harsh performing ... personally didn't liked them either , for the race/track maybe , but no not for the road (bad-ish road , with potholes especially) . In the absence of the OE Peugeot ones , myself i found next best to be - Sachs/Boge .. closest to the OE item shocks , liking them very much excellent damping and build quality . "UpRated" item shocks are i think for the commercial variant's of the 205's i.e. delivery vans . D
