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- Yesterday
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i think most likely that the hubs have a taller offset from the hub flange to the strut clamp, pushing the balljoint out. for the narrow (standard) track kit they use the 307 hubs though, very similar lower balljoint arrangement, same caliper fitment as a 205/306, but a 2 bolt clamp to the strut.
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Hi anyone know why the starter motor has 2 blue wires from spade connector ? It from a 89 405 mi16 loom? Thanks
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1993 Gentry air filter
PhilNW replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
How do the dims of your existing one compare the crosland one? -
1993 Gentry air filter
Bremar replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Brilliant, They have that in stock about 20 mins away. £6.79. Just wasn’t easy to know if I was missing something. I will pick it up tomorrow. Thanks. Bremar -
1993 Gentry air filter
PhilNW replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Dims from Euro car parts web site for a crosland filter Filter TypeFilter Insert Height mm243 Inner Diameter mm72 Outer diameter mm111 -
Hi I was inspecting the engine, more specifically the air filter. Either its the wrong size or something is missing from the airbox, Ive attche a link to a YouTube vid to show the issue. Any help would be appreciated Thanks Bremar.
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pretty sure the satchel 406 setup adds a minimum of 25mm to the track width, i assume to overcome any addition of positive camber from the differing hubs? I've thought about 406 hubs down the line but when you add the cost of sorting the brake offset and longer driveshafts it adds up quickly
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Thanks. It’s certainly a strange consistency.
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this is what satchell make for the 106, 205 arms are similar but the rear link mounting to the tca is inverted
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it would have been some kind of grease, you don't need loads on there, decades old heat cycled grease does make some weird consistency substances! axle wouldn't have been from a 306 unless some substantial shell mods were done and it has dimma or maxi rear arches..
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This is what I made for mine and my friend Adrian with 406/Bridgecraft hubs. Another friend Parry, also uses them, but with dodgy Ø16mm pins clamped in std 205 hubs.
- Last week
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Rose joint pin info
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Another thought, what about making an end for the wishbone that can be adjusted in and out and uses the standard 406 ball joint. Might be simpler. -
Help Identifying connectors in engine bay
Bremar replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi, PhilNW errr I am sure the wiring diagrams will at some point prove useful. Necessity at some point will force me to understand the detail but I was definitely overwhelmed at the minute. thanks Welshpug, good to know they are not just loose wiring that should have a home. Bremar. -
Rose joint pin info
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
I design complex stuff for a living and have access to a 4 axis turning centre so no worries with making the part up. Looks like an M40 x 1.5 thread one end then a step for spacing between the rose joint and hub, a tolerance shaft to pass through the rose joint then a thread for a nut on the end. Guess I need to get hold of a 406 hub to check the angle. -
Rose joint pin info
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
Not bought the rose joints yet until I am decided exactly what I am doing -
There is extra machining on NE23 blank keys so it's more likely that BLIC just simplified the NE72 design to cut costs. Those keys shouldn't work on ignition barrels but as long as BLIC only sells door locks it's not a problem for them. Looking at the cuts on the new keys you may not be able to directly reuse the key pins if the ends are too flat. Also the BLIC key has shallow cuts to shorten machining time and limit tool wear, it saves them money but that also means it's easyer to pick the lock open.
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Help Identifying connectors in engine bay
Leslie green replied to Bremar's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
The white cable plug is probably ABS as said , the ABS module would mount just in front of that but it was a very rare option , interesting about the little wire of the coil as I wondered what that was for too. -
Decoding the Infra-Red Remote Central Locking
SRDT replied to lightflow's topic in Misc/General Technical
Renault was the very first tu use them on the Fuego with Peugeot not too far behind. The 305/BX/205/309/405 remote/receiver combo was made mostly by Neiman (Valeo) that invented it but you can also find some Kiekert remote/receiver with similar exterior design and wiring. Jaguar used a Kiekert system on the XJ40 and the receiver design is clearly a variant the Peugeot one. -
I’m in the process of rebuilding some rear calipers. Although I've put 1900 in the topic description, I believe that the axle and therefore the calipers are from a 306, as the piston diameter is 32mm, rather than 30mm. The handbrake mechanism on both was tight (seized) and I had to disassemble completely to get it working again. I’ve done one and everything seems good with obvious and smooth movement of the piston when moving the handbrake lever on the caliper. My question is about the material that was packed around the mechanism. The working parts under the rubber cover. It’s almost like a moulded rubber/plastic which I’ve scraped off with a screwdriver. On the one that I’ve already reassembled I’ve added a generous amount of black grease before refitting the rubber cover. From those that have done this before, does this seem right? What’s the original material?
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If your rose joints have rubber seals or even bronze rings it's better to design Spacer 1 and 2 so that at extreme angles they hit the joint steel body first. It's usually only a problem during assembly and maintenance but with the whole A-arm as a lever it's very easy to damage the joint. On bronze rings a single nick can turn a free joint into a stiff one.
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Yes, the original kits fits both Valeo and BLIC locks. I think the table of key specs explains the difference; the BLIC key could be an NE23? (and possibly used on really early 205s pre-1985?) I'm not totally sold on rekeying the Valeo cylinders; would not want to do it if risking future failures.
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Decoding the Infra-Red Remote Central Locking
UnintegratedCircuit replied to lightflow's topic in Misc/General Technical
Good to know Bremar, I'll look into it probably starting this evening then - I'm attacking the car with clay, polish and wax today so that'll take a while. Does anyone know how widespread these systems were? I believe they were installed on quite a few peugeot and citroen models, right? Not that it'll affect whether I make a batch of key fob PCBs (I want a spare regardless) - I'm just curious. -
davoholdsworth63@outlook.c joined the community
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Look at the bruising on the casting from the side and bottom of the pin head. That thing really gets some serious loads. I'm only doing the 306 hubs as an interim measure until I've finished the 406 hubs. I can't say what difference there is in oem camber values. A friend uses them (with the Bridgecraft pins) but has the same fully adjustable arms as mine. There's a lot more time involved with the 306 hub modification, compared to the 406 hubs. If you aren't handy with the lathe you'll be paying considerably for time.
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Rose joint pin info
Richie-Van-GTi replied to Richie-Van-GTi's topic in Brakes, Suspension & Steering
That's what I need, although, you threw a spanner in my thinking now. I had wondered about 406 hubs but wasn't sure how viable they would be. Any idea what the strut situation is woth them regarding angle, I was going 306 to help undo a degree of the camber the extended bottom arms will introduce. I am wanting to get wide enough to run 306 shafts and have narrower coilover springs and a modified adjustable top mount to bring the strut top out as far as possible. The car will be purely a road car (dimma rep) so not looking to go too crazy on suspension. -
Is this what you need? I'd make the pin from 4140, EN25 or EN26. Adjust the length of Spacer 1 to ensure arm is parallel with track rod. I've suggested a length of 90mm, but you should make it as short as possible once you have the spacers correct. Additional length makes it harder to fit the rose joint/arm.
