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  2. Another option could be to ask/pay Emerald to send you a map. I'm sure they'd have one for your spec.
  3. Is already has fuel injection as stated above. Likely that adding closed loop lambda feedback to the emerald could do the trick to pass your test.
  4. Thanks both and my bad - ITBs and not carbs - spot on. Even the guys at the place i picked it up from reckons a decent tuner would be able to get it done but the issue is finding one here. One collective view from the mechanics I have spoken to have said that reverted to fuel injection it would be fine for the emissions - how big a job is that? Have also learned today that it has a Quaife LSD which is a result.
  5. Today
  6. Not much to add past what Peter has said. Find out the emission limits you need to hit to start off with.
  7. First of all, it's running throttle bodies, not carbs. Carburetors have floats, needles and jets to control the fuel, not a computer. ie your car has Jenvey throttle bodies, four injectors and an Emerald computer. Provided it's an otherwise standard 1.9L GTi engine internally, if it has a cat and a lambda sensor, there is no reason why it can't be tuned to meet the emission standards of the year it was produced. Any tuner worth their salt should be able to do that for you. However, if you're asking it to meet 2020 emissions standards, forget it. Even with the original ECU, manifold etc., that will never happen. You need to know where the goal posts are and how high you need to kick.
  8. Hi all New to the group so apologies if i'm not posting in the right spot. I've recently bought a '91 1.9 GTI which is running twin 45 Jenvey carbs and an Emerald K6 ECU (also has a Zeemax kit!). Its been off the road for just over 2 years and as I live in Hong Kong, it now requires quite a strict govt MOT in order to re-register it. Despite having bolted on a cat, it is still failing the emissions test and as knowledge of these types of engines is pretty limited here, one option i'm considering is reverting it back to fuel injection. I've heard this could be a big job depending on what was removed to fit the carbs but nothing is impossible so am interested in knowing if anyone has experience of this. Its a project car and i'm willing to invest time and money but just need to pointed in the right direction, for example, is there somewhere that sells a complete kit including wiring loom, injectors etc. I've still got a modified 205xs in the UK which has been in storage since i left 18 years ago and still remember the driving experience despite everything that's come and gone in between so can't wait to get this GTI roadworthy! Thanks all!
  9. petert

    [project] Project 205 Xu13j4

    You're right, in that they don't suit in car removal of the head. For regular maintenance of race engines, they're ideal however.
  10. I bought the parts from Titan Motorsports, Florida. The single stud was US$12. Ebay prices seem to be exorbitant compared to what I paid.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Do you look here? As per the attached procedure for M1.3, you should get 12 at the start and 11 at the end. If nothing in between, there are no faults recorded.
  13. Type-R

    205 GTi Restoration

    Also that ebay page includes contact info, even a mobile number.
  14. Type-R

    205 GTi Restoration

    https://www.205gtidrivers.com/profile/43-miles/
  15. Phil205

    205 GTi Restoration

    Do you have contact details please ?
  16. Type-R

    205 GTi Restoration

    That's Miles from Pug Racing on here. He has an excellent reputation.
  17. Phil205

    205 GTi Restoration

    Hi, My car is in need of quite a lot of work. Replacement body panels and/or a fair bit of restoration work needed. I have tried some local guys, but all are busy or not interested so far. Has anyone heard of this outfit ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-Gti-1-6-1-9-Mi16-GTi-6-Restoration-/282690725745
  18. Before you assume a shaft, check all subframe nuts and bolts. If it is shafts you're possibly best off getting custom ones made by someone like bridgecraft or satchel engineering
  19. My 205 v6 has thrown another issue up just as i was getting a few issue sorted. I believe the driveshaft or cv joint is knackered as making clunking noise on acceleration from driverside. Therefore i need new driveshafts for a 205 v6. Does anyone know which drievshaft i need. Are they normally modified 1.9 driveshafts or 406 v6 driveshafts. If modified does anyone know the correct length. I believe its running the 406 gearbox.
  20. Myles

    Tarmac 205 Heaven

    A bit more done on the bonnet mould over the weekend 1. Tooling resin curing in the sun 2. The front edge is having a small return to give strength and be comfortable to open so needs a two part mould here so we can get it apart! Hope to have a carbon bonnet made by the end of August
  21. After doing a bit of a rebuild on my 205, and trying to get it going again I'm now stuck. It's an Mi16 (XU9J4) running the Motronic ML4.1 ECU, and used to work fine. Currently it doesn't fire up. There seems to be a spark, and there also seems to be pulses going to the injectors. I'm sure there's also fuel getting pumped to the rail as the fuel pressure regulator o-ring was iffy, and fuel was leaking out, so I fixed that. So there seems to be spark and fuel, but no signs of life. So I'm trying to work out how to use the diagnostic connection on the ECU. I've connected an LED via a resistor from pin 17 to +ve. When I turn the key to ignition on the LED lights as expected. Reading around it seems that you start the diagnostic routine by shorting pin 4 to ground for about 3 seconds and the LED should flash a sequence of flashes to indicate codes. But when I do that the LED just turns off. So does anyone know how to get the diagnostic codes out?
  22. ob2s

    VIN Forensics

    I contacted Peugeot to try and get the 'build sheet' and information about where my 1.9 was delivered new. My french was clear, but all received back was a byzantine way to order manuals for my car. I said nothing about needing manuals. "feuille de construction d'usine" Anyway, seems like a dead end. Is this a futile quest due to the large numbers of cars made ? Thanks
  23. B1ack_Mi16

    ARP Head Studs

    I bought 2 sets of Payen 110mm bolts today, at 15£ a set + vat (which I pay when they arrive here). So still quite a few sets of bolts to cover the stud price. Also I just moment tighten the bolts below yield, so they are not a problem to reuse.. but for a high power turbo engine I suppose studs are good. For my NA engine it never seemed to be necessary in the past at least.
  24. B1ack_Mi16

    ARP Head Studs

    Easy to find the kit on eBay: 247-5403 But the single stud seem to be harder.. got a link to a relevant webshop?
  25. B1ack_Mi16

    [project] Project 205 Xu13j4

    Yes I find it very comfy just to unbolt the V-band clamp from the 309 GTi16 manifold and lift it off attached. Saves a lot of work...
  26. welshpug

    [project] Project 205 Xu13j4

    I dont think it will come off the studs even with the manifold off, certainly wouldnt with a decent manifold or a gti6 one.
  27. B1ack_Mi16

    [project] Project 205 Xu13j4

    My engine builder is on the matter... he'll come and help me out. About ARP studs, where to buy and which are correct length for MI16 head on the Iron block? Will there be an issue with the waterpump hole? I'm considering it myself too... only thing I'm sceptical how easy it will be to lift the head off the block with the exhaust manifold still attached?
  28. i went back to the car and had another crack, with everything plugged in tried to start the car and nothing, i was unbale to see if the injectors where being grounded as the car wont even idle. i also retrid a new afm and nothing. i am gong to bridge the tach rlay again this time with out bridging the fuel pump and will try to start the car and see what voltage readinds i get at the differnt components. im guessing that everything should be getting 12v. thanks Gavin
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