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  1. Today
  2. Looking for some pointers and general info. I have 2 ex rally cars that have been neglected, I have replaced a roof on one and the other was parked after a bump for 25 years in a barn before I bought it. It has a completely different colour front end Wings Bonnet etc. Both are going EWT white and both have been sprayed previously prior to me buying them. I don't need to worry about paint matching as I’ll respray them fully externally. I can get EWT from local paint factor but only in cellulose, I am fine with that, I have a good 3m 6800 full face mask with filters and pre filters, overalls etc. but I do not want to spray with 2pk, I have young kids and neighbours around, it’s not worth the possible problems, so I want to spray without isocyanates. This is where I start to get a little stuck/lost. I ideally want to spray with an epoxy primer first but I can’t get a straight answer about a non iso containing product. I’ll flat that back and see but in gods honest truth the cars will be used as targa/road rally cars so they need to be 1 colour for regs and as long as they look ok from 10 yards that’s fine. I was then going to high build prime, flat it off and then 3 coats of cellulose, the supplier says they can give me an ewt in cellulose that will dry glossy and not need a lacquer over the top? Anybody tell me what that is? Is it an acrylic paint? What was the original paint finish from the factory, were they painted in 2pk from the factory, cars are 85 B and C reg originally if that makes any difference, trying to figure out if I need a bar coat over them first, that said both have been repainted more than once I would imagine as both have been rally cars since late 80’s. Prob have to spray a small section first and see if it react but be good to know what the orig paint likely was. Any help and advice appreciated as I’ve never painted with a spray gun before and I also have my classic mini that would benefit from a respray so I’ve got 3 cars that I want to get done so if anybody can save me the common mistakes. However please don’t reply telling me to use 2pk as it’ll be fine and its better, I'm not happy using it in my location etc. Thanks
  3. 309SRiguy

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    I purchased a CEVAM 3600 from Mister Auto. For quite a while now I have found mister-auto.co.uk to be unusable from a pc. They appear to be chasing the mobile phone users. autodoc.co.uk has a wide range. Outputs, prices, and number of teeth on the pinion vary. No CEVAM there but lots of the narrow body modern style. Some 309 searches searches brought up cross reference to Mitsubishi and Hitachi as Damir mentioned.
  4. Yesterday
  5. Name: 205 GTI 1.6 Category: Peugeot 205 Date Added: 2021-09-16 Submitter: Steve K 205 GTI 1.6
  6. Steve K

    205 GTI 1.6

  7. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Uneven Brake Pad Wear

    are they girling calipers? unventilated type? does it have new discs on both sides?
  8. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    minor update - they have got a replacement armature at as-pl.com/en £24 + £9 for delivery cheaper than a new valeo one although valeo do them also might give it a try just for fun now I guess Im not going to save money just see if I can rebuild it make it work I must have burnt out the windings somewhere - yeah the slots on the front picture above its not continuity through all of them which it should be. couple of them read forwards continuity but not backwards. I dont know how it is wound but maybe I burnt out the thick wire. It must be pumping through a lot of current as the wires look thick I know a friend who burnt out the end contacts so presuming its get pretty hot. thanks for advice
  9. Thanks for that, something to investigate. The red light does light up on mine, the dash night lights don't light in the top left even after new bulbs. What you have explained should prove if it's the wiring or not from the engine bay brown plug to the dash cluster.
  10. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    thanks @DamirGTI I am not sure how to describe the problem - I will look that up now - is the rotor also called armature? I have found that, well at least one, of the "segments" doesn't have continuity with the segments behind it? the ones in front do but not the one behind? attached pic I marked the "faulty" segment I am not sure how it works? it seems to have two thick wires connected to each "segment" by segment I mean the thing I marked blue in the pic. ah so if you contact any segment - are they all supposed to have continuity ie zero resistance ie they are all connected? oh yeah I see
  11. The allen screw on the AFM is for idle mixture adjusting , while driving and on all the rest of the rev range the mixture is governed by the AFM spring preload , state of the potentiometer-carbon track . You can usually tweak the spring/cog wheel around 4 tooth in either direction rich-lean , and around "maxi" 7 tooth if it's on the lean settings already .. really depends from where you're starting off , if someone before you wound it up tight , midway or loose . Then , there's certain spot close to ideal where 2 tooth on either side makes noticeable difference , and also an spot where while loosing the cog wheel the mixture starts to go lean !! (when should actually be rich , quite a bit rich) . Also one needs to drive the car and monitor what happens with the mixture trough the entire rev range , only then you'll be able to adjust the AFM perfectly/spot on .. but needs an WB sensor and gauge as an setup/adjusting aid , otherwise it'll be guessing game , no way you can set it up by feel/ear/nose .. Even ordinary 4 wire (with heater) narrow band lambda sensor hooked up to the multimeter stuffed into the exhaust is better than anything , it'll help you out seeing what happens with the mixture .. it'll be pretty precise on how lean it runs , but not so accurate on the rich side (though not as much/drastically imprecise) And absolutely , need to fix all the other issue on the engine first before attempt to adjust the AFM ... vacuum leaks especially , cracked hoses , leaky gaskets and such . D
  12. DamirGTI

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    Mitsubishi and Hitachi starters and alternators are the best , they seem to go for ages ... I've an 206 RC/GTI Mitsubishi starter on my 205 , it's also lightweight fast spinning , nice cranking/spinning sound too ... and most important , no more starter problems since . Before that , i had replaced think 3 old Paris Rhone (now bought by Valeo) starters in about 5 years , they where the old big bulky starters with which the early 205's/309's/405's/605's usually came from factory . Not quite sure what seems to be the problem with the starter you're trying to rebuild ? no continuity on the rotor ? With the thick dark copper-reddish wires , you need to scrape into them a bit in order to measure continuity , as they're covered with kinda thin plastic glue layer .. I've rebuilt a few of them and never really found the rotor being bad to be honest , it's commonly wear on brushes+commutator surface , solenoid , and bad Bendix (on models with one) on some odd occasions found the magnets broken which then jammed the rotor (reason not to bang on the starter body trying to unsize/make it spin !!) Trick with the assembling the brushes if there's no clips is , use small/thin zip ties and tie up the brushes and assemble like so .. once assembled cut and remove the zip ties . D
  13. Thijs_Rallye

    Uneven Brake Pad Wear

    Put it on a brake analyser. I assume it being a track car the brake hoses are braided ones, therefore my first suspect would be one of the brake limiters.
  14. boldy205

    Gripper diff creaking noise

    Mine makes lots of horrid noises when turning at slow speed, how loud Is the creak? Sure its not tyres/CV boots as u turn?
  15. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    yeah that ll be great thanks - details of the purchase yeah now you mention it I start thinking:- the bosch one is massive. the valeo ones seems lighter and smaller. that's interesting and useful about the bracket not being essential thanks
  16. 309SRiguy

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    I bought an modern style starter from Europe (Poland ?) From memory it has 1.5Kw output instead of 1Kw. It is smaller in size and being lighter I fitted it without the support bracket. It was so much easier to fit than the bulky old one. It hasn't worked loose or broken off the block after 20,000km so I think the removal of the brace has done no harm. The XU5JA used to turn fairly slowly but the extra power overcomes the compression easily and spins the crank faster resulting in a good quick fire-up. If you want details I can probably find details of the purchase.
  17. Are you thinking of altering the spring tension for the AFM flap? Unless it has been tweaked already and you want to tweak it back to standard you will likely end up worse than when you started. What exactly does Haynes suggest you do? I thought my 309 manual told me to leave the flap tension alone. If you do touch it make sure you mark positions carefully so that the spring will be somewhere near the tension you started with. I found that when all else was close to correct that one notch in either direction upset the fuel ratio too much. The AFM looks as though it has seen better days. The flap should not be out of line with the casing as it appears to be in a photo above. What about that sensor? It doesn't look like it has had an easy life. Does the flap move smoothly? If the AFM hasn't been tweaked too much most of the mixture adjustment is by turning the hex head screw which adjusts the flow of air in the AFM air bypass channel. It bypasses the flap and adjusts the mixture by letting more or less air through. If you remove the cover have a good close look at the carbon track that the contacts sweep over. There are ways of cleaning up the track and relocating the contacts to a fresh tracking position. There are many articles on the peculiarities of the LE2 Jetronic. They were used in many vehicles at the time so lots of people have experienced the problems. Searching the web will certainly bring some hits. This site is well worth searching for knowledge of the LE2. If the rest of the induction system is checked and sorted then a stuffed AFM will be more obvious. The leaks that can occur in the system can give bad mixture. Have you worked through the check list? Some of the common leaks might surprise you. Is your timing correct? Is the vacuum advance working? or is the diaphragm damaged and leaking air into the manifold vacuum tube. Any extra air entering the intake will quickly lean the mixture to the point where there is too little adjustment within the system to correct the air/fuel ratio.
  18. Last week
  19. keeperlit

    What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

    Took my 89 GTi6 for MoT today, and it only failed on one thing after being laid up for 7 years! Unfortunately that one thing is the roof and B pillar rust Time for a new roof, or more likely a new shell... I really did enjoy being out for a drive in it again. Too bad I'll have to cancel the insurance but on the plus side I'm inside the 14 days cooling off period
  20. I'm hoping someone may have an idea as to what is causing the pads to wear unevenly on our race 205. It has to run standard calipers and we run Ferodo pads. The pads in each caliper are evenly worn but the nearside pads are wearing at twice the rate of the offside. This has been the case for several sets of pads. The pistons seem free, and so do the sliding 'pins'. The nearside caliper is very recent - it was replaced to replace a stripped bleed valve. I would have thought a sticking piston may cause uneven wear within a single caliper, but both pairs of pads are evenly worn. I'm informed that our master cylinder is the 406 type (4 outlets).
  21. UPDATE: Just done a bunch of back to back 2nd gear pulls, measuring 30mph to 55mph (rev limiter). I was testing a combo of a new (2nd hand) TPS, the original TPS, and a new Mann air filter (previous one was foam - unknown brand). Results below: Foam filter, original TPS: Run #1 - 6.1s Run #2 - 6.0s Run #3 - 6.3s Foam filter, new TPS: Run #1 - 7.7s Run #2 - 7.1s Mann filter, new TPS: Run #1 - 7.2s Run #2 - 7.1s Run #3 - 7.1s Foam filter, no TPS: Run #1 - 8.0s I'm kinda confused at the results. There doesn't seem to be any difference between the foam and Mann filter (as I expected) but there's a definite difference between the two throttle sensors. I'm of the understanding that it's a simple open/closed switch so as long as it knows I'm not idling, it shouldn't make any difference. But these tests show quite a clear difference in performance?? Also, the new TPS didn't change the idle. Revs still plummet to near-stall when the clutch is depressed. I'm going to tweak the AFM as per Haynes.
  22. The relay is indeed very basic inside with big components so you really don't need much soldering skills.
  23. Indeed , pricey nowadays for the new ones yes ... but there's a lot of 80's/90's cars which had the same type relay , so second hand used is optional too . I've an Opel/Vauxhall GSI used scrappy picked up relay on my 205 for good +15 years now .. still works . New ones , there's also some other part No's for the same relay type for other car brands/makes which parts catalogues usually doesn't list directly , obviously cheaper (as/if you don't ask/search for "GTI" item only) .. can't remember now which ones specifically , i did some research about while ago . Easily reparable too as said , if you're handy with soldering iron , handling resistors , diodes etc. everything can be replaced/repaired .. or if happened to know someone who repairs household appliances it'll be easy job for them . D
  24. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Oil pressure gauge wiring to dash instrument cluster

    yeah the brown connector reads 7.10 V via multi-meter to earth** - photo 1 gives the needle not moving but light on on the dash when I ground connect the probes in the same position photo 3 - -so the connector is grounded - the needle moves to absolute max- photo 4. the red light seems to on all the time **I just connected the red lead of the meter to the brown connector and the black to battery -ve
  25. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Starter motor refurbishment -

    thanks great point Ill check that now Thanks @Tom Fenton might not be worth spending too much time on this
  26. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    1990 1.9 fuel pump

    yeah for sure - I didn't realise they were 30-50 quid each. great article on it in the general guides, with the pin numbers etc in detail by @DamirGTI
  27. Richard309Sri XU5JA 205GTi

    Oil pressure gauge wiring to dash instrument cluster

    do you get a voltage reading on the brown plug - that connects to the oil pressure sensor - between that plug and earth/masse/ground? I think you can check the wiring and supply voltage to it this way - there should be voltage to the brown plug - that checks the supply to the sensor is working &if you apply a voltage yourself to that plug if the wiring and the dial/gauge/needle on the dash if working it will move** Ill check again in a minute what voltage it is to the oil pressure gauge ** ill just double check what voltage I used make sure I don't tell use the wrong voltage I did this recently when I thought mine was not working. oh reading last paragraph if that light doesnt come on it could be the instruments cluster. the needle wont move unless that red light comes on with key turned to pos 1 or 2 ill check I don't know the exact pathway of the wires but I know it goes around under the ignition coil - passenger right hand corner of the engine bay because it is on the bundles of cables that does connection to the dash coolant temp warning light - red STOP - when its too hot the coolant well hope this helps until/if anyone else has better ideas
  28. pugfrank

    Original finish to sills?

    Thanks D.
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