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  1. Today
  2. If all the plumbing, wiring and other installation fittings are in place and in good order, then the whole job should not be more than one day for someone who is experienced . However, if it is not all plain sailing, then the time needed( and therefore cost) can easily run into days if not a week.That is my view based on a few engine swaps . Others more knowledgeable than I may be able to give a more definitive answer.
  3. TPS is functioning correctly. Now afm
  4. Engine has now cut out and won’t restart for some reason the fuel gauge is reading full.
  5. Stop light was a fautly wire. Fixed now. So one problem still too go! First tps then afm.
  6. Yes they are made new. The elbow has been made by Baker BM. The complete kit has been produced by a French guy. Have a search on facebook 205 gti club page. I forgot how he is called.
  7. It feels as a rev limiter. You feel the compression of the engine as there is no bang anymore. AFM I can measure as well so will check that now together with the TPS. I think I will order a ignition amp anyway for the cost of around 30 euro's it can never damage anything. I can check the spark as wel with a stroboscope if it just cuts out when I come above 3k RPM.
  8. Is it possible to buy the big air intake pipes from Peugeot or can anyone recommend an alternative supplier ? I am particularly after the one between the Air Flow Meter and the throttle body. I will probably also buy the two pipes either side of the air filter. All suggestions welcome please !
  9. Telf

    1989 1.6 cherry red refurbishment

    good work, have fun cleaning it up!
  10. More likely that the wire is damaged and is shorting against the engine block or bodywork than the switch itself being faulty IMO. Easy to unplug and rule out the switch - it's the taller of the two on the back of the thermostat housing. That won't be behind the running issue causing it not to rev beyond 3k rpm under load. I have seen both AFM and ignition amp failures cause this - a faulty ignition amp tends to feel more like a rev-limiter with a abrupt, violent cut, whereas the AFM tends to go very flat and have no power as the engine is starved of fuel. The TPS can be unplugged for testing purposes - the engine will feel a bit flat and lack power at full throttle and the fuel cut-off on over-run won't work, but otherwise the car will drive fine.
  11. Thanks! Didn't knew that one. Can be that it is broken as the coolant one gives me a good reading.
  12. Braymond

    Take me out in your 205 GTI6 please? (Sussex)

    Excellent, I'll be in touch. In the meantime, anyone else closer to home?
  13. woodymi16

    Track Pads

    Have used the DS3000 which are excellent on the track and I'm now using CL which are also very good.
  14. There are three coolant senders, one for the ECU, one for the gauge and one overheat switch which is the one that triggers the STOP and overheat light. This is the one you should be looking for.
  15. Unscrewing the 3 M6 bolts holding the ecu and pull the plug. Ohm reading on the pins will work fine. I have long cables for my multimeter so can rotate the throttle while reading the ecu. You need a differance in Ohm to read a difference in voltage anyway. Regarding the STOP light it is quite funny. When the engine is stone cold the oil pressure is more than find as well as the coolant is fine. Maybe I hit/ pinched a wire while putting the car togheter. Will check the instrument cluster. Will also check if the STOP light goes away buy pulling the respective plugs of the sensors (oil pressure and coolant temp). Thanks so much guys. Will update tonight with more info.
  16. As far as I know there is no diagnostics present in Jetronic ECU's. For checking the TPS either will do fine, Volts or Ohms. For measuring Volts you will need to partly disassembly the ECU connector, I'd start with Ohms personally because it is less work.
  17. Batfink

    Track Pads

    The best race compounds use a metallic or semi metallic blend to cope with higher generated temperatures. The standard disc size is not big and nor is the pad size so you have to watch the temperatures you get to. the Ferodo DS2500 are not that great at high temperatures and you may be better off with their DS1.11 compound which are vastly superior and will last twice as long - though more expensive unfortunately. https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tuning/peugeot/peugeot-205/brakes/peugeot-205-ferodo-race-brake-pads-1-9-gti.html
  18. I think the exhaust as I drove the 406 before the conversion and it went very well. It must be something I have done, it is now revving a bit easier but unplugging the lambda made no difference, I have noticed there is a smell of fuel so is running very rich
  19. Low oil pressure and high coolant temperature are the only triggers for the STOP light. Low coolant level or low brake fluid level will illuminate their respective lights on the dashboard, but won't illuminate the STOP light. The ECU will not illuminate the STOP light in any circumstance - the only warning light the ECU will illuminate is the engine check light on 1.9 Motronic based models.
  20. The oil pressure and cilinderhead are the only one? The coolant and brake fluid as well right? Wilfred de Ronde from 205 totaal told me the early engines can be read out with a special computer he has. The stoplight could be triggered by the ecu seeing a faulty switch or sensor. There are only a few as we know but he told me it is possible.
  21. Thanks again Thijs. I will check it at the ecu. Disconnectiing the ecu put my meter on it and turn the throttle by hand in the engine bay. I spoke to an automotive electronic specialist and he told me it is more accurate to measure volts when the ecu is active as the ecu works this way. I will find out more tonight!
  22. Welkom hier If I am not mistaken you shouldn't be measuring 0,9 ohm anywhere on the TPS. It should either be conducting fully, or not conducting at all which goes for the idle contact as well as the WOT contact. Let me post this again As for the stop light, the only things triggering the STOP light is the oil pressure warning switch (the small one) and the overheat sensor in the cylinder head. If you disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch and the light goes out it is probably the switch. The switch is a normally closed type which is opened by oil pressure. You can test the overheat sensor the same way. If the wire had chewn through the isolation somewhere the light will light up as well. Thijs Added the Jetronic ECU pinout. If you measure them from the ECU you can diagnose any wiring issues as well.
  23. Correction: When running there is no other lights than "stop" showing. All fluids are fresh and topped up.
  24. petert

    Group a hubs

    And there's two different sizes, 1.6 and 1.9.
  25. HI Jack, that is quick! Thanks. The ignition module backplate was indeed corroded but I cleaned it up properly and used condutive gell when I screwed it back on. The other lights are showing up when not running yes. When not running there are not other lights showing. I forgot to mention that I checked fuel pressure. The pump, alle lines hard and flex, fuel filter are new. Checked the pressure and stays 3 bars at idle and through the revs. No drop at 3 bar. Checked when driving.
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