Welcome to the brand new 205GTIDrivers.com website! We hope you'll enjoy it! Read the full notice here.
All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
Hi How much slack is there supposed to be on on the 52 link oil pump chain, got all the xu10 upgrades just seems like too much slack for my liking, engine is xu9 cheers wez
- Today
-
joecrum changed their profile photo
-
cylinder leak-down test
jackherer replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Even if you did all that the chances are it wouldn't ignite! The air/fuel ratio needs to be within a very small range for a spark to actually do anything. Haynes still have to cover themselves though for that 1 in a million chance that could get them sued. -
cylinder leak-down test
Ozymandis replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Best to take the main high tension lead off, then loosely lay it against the cylinder head casting or engine block/crankcase, connect your test apparartus, then IMMEDIATELY before you crank the engine over, liberally douse the whole thing with 98 octane gasoline, 4.5 liters or a gallon should be sufficient, place propane gas cylinders in each footwell, one in Your lap helps a lot, 12kg cylinders are sufficient. Then crank away on the starter. It`s best to do this inside in an enclosed space, a wooden garage is best, but be sure to close and lock the doors before You attempt this. As I have a terrorist insurgent background it does annoy me so much when people DONT lock themselves in the building first. -
cylinder leak-down test
jackherer replied to Cobalt_drill_bit's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
I would imagine they are ensuring there are no stray sparks when you might have e.g. fuel hoses disconnected. Also I think it is possible to damage a coil if they have no path to discharge to ground. Personally I would unplug the LT side of the coil... -
Good day all, I recently bought a 1992 1.9 GTI (30 years after my first one) in Sorrento green. During the 18 previous owners time almost every interior panel has missing screws, holes, broken tabs etc. etc. I am working my way to putting it back to factory standard and now want to replace the two rear trim panels either side of the parcel shelf as there is an empty hole in one where I think an alarm push switch went. They also cover the rear speakers. However, do I need to drill the two rivets out each side that support the parcel shelf or am I just missing something? By the way, the door pockets were a bit floppy and also had missing screws. At sometime in the past someone had overtightened the screws and domed the holes out. After knocking them back flush and buying more screws they are nice and tight now. Kind regards, Rob
-
cylinder leak-down test
Cobalt_drill_bit posted a topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Hi guys, I would like to pursue an cylinder leak-down test on my TU1M engine. Because I suspect a blown head gasket. I have to say that I already made up my mind to go for a leak-down test. What I would like to ask about is something I read in the Haynes manual regarding the related compression test. As Haynes doesn't have a section regarding leak-down test. Ok, for the compression test on the TU they refer back to chapter 2A*3 (for X engines) because the instructions are likely identical. Step 3 of the compression test read: Disable the ignition system by disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from the distributor cap and earthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar wire to make a good connection. My question is what are they trying to achieve there? As I have an engineering background I'm very annoyed by these loose instructions. I have to understand what I am doing. Despite my annoyance at Haynes I appreciate people who use this forum to help out other members. Best regards, Maarten -
Andy Barton changed their profile photo
-
What Other 'interesting' Vehicles Do You Own..?
Rob_the_Sparky replied to barneys66's topic in General Car Chat
cool, love old US vehicles. Not got space for another car though, especially a big one! -
I've never seen a 3" long one but I guess they must have made them if you have one! Normally both sides are the same and as shown in the picture above. Probably best to post wanted ad.
-
For future reference https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/peugeot-205-stdt-/312260131210?hash=item48b427798a%3Ag%3AiAcAAOSwlKlbviko&nma=true&si=GW07EHbFmuv86AxF6OWi4E4RCx8%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 A 205 STDT with the following description sold for £1390 "152k and mot till aug 2019 runs and drives 100% and is a quick little car picks up very well iv only owned this 6 mnths but now need a bigger car.since owning it iv put new driveshafts,wheelbearings,droplinks and a full service so it is mechanically sound.however bodywork does need attention with the odd dent and laquar peel on the roof and the bonnet is carbon fibre wraped but looks ok paint does clean up quite well my goal was to get it all done but as said up above interior is clean and tidy but does have wear car is lowerd on spax and handles very well but is quite bouncy this was a rolling work in progress and wanted it machically sound b4 i started on the bodywork it does need niggles but nothing serious but if u have any questions just msg i still use the car daily so millage will increase" The number plate may have helped sale...L205FKO I've been offered around £500 for mine as a non-runner, which I'm making into a runner, so there's another potential baseline for valuing.
-
xud7t/k Recommendations on starter and battery cable for an XUD7T/K?
AaronMountford1990 replied to AaronMountford1990's topic in XU 8v Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Noted, i'll see what I can get. True. Anyone know anything about engine mounts? The upper drivers side one on top of the engine has sheared off. Rang Peugeot and they don't make em anymore - it's the one with the bracket that goes over the timing belt cover on the XUD7T/K I know BBM do a fast road kit but I wanted to see if there's still some standard compliance bushes around anywhere as I'm conscious with Fast road mounts on an already shaky diesel engine is going to make it ride like a traaa-or (tractor).. -
Gsy20516 changed their profile photo
-
We've got it running again! On first view the oilpressure seems to be good: cold engine and running on idle gives around 5 bar. When you rev to 2500 rpm the pressure rises to 6,5. Didn't have the chance to let it warm up, but let's hope it's fixed and the pressure stays high enough...
-
Jez hill changed their profile photo
- Yesterday
-
Drivers' Cars: 205 GTI 1.9 by Smashingcraft
Smashingcraft posted a topic in Drivers' Cars Discussion Topics
Name: 205 GTI 1.9 Category: Peugeot 205 Date Added: 2018-10-15 Submitter: Smashingcraft 205 GTI 1.9 -
-
Smashingcraft joined the community
-
Hi my first post on here, i have just finished a complete rewire on the new rally car using a of the shelf kit car loom, but i have hit a bit of a wall, cant work out which pin does what on the wiper switch does anyone know which pin does what before i start buying fuses by the box full Thanks Andy
-
Hi Tom, yes you are correct, thanks for pointing out . I should have described this method better, the plastic link is vertical when fitted on the car, so as you say it needs to be popped off towards the front of the car
-
What Other 'interesting' Vehicles Do You Own..?
barneys66 replied to barneys66's topic in General Car Chat
Just scored this 1974 Ford Econoline in LA - currently sat at the docks awaiting boxing up for the journey over.. Two owners, sliding side door (my preference over barndoors), 30k miles, 302 V8 auto with factory PAS and PAB - a rare combo. Zero rust (ignoring the patina!) -
Late TU 16v head differences
Kane replied to Kane's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
Perfect thanks Mei. Plenty of 307’s kicking about the scrappies so should be easy enough to source a serviceable head. I wish the same could be said for some other TU parts I’ve been looking for.. -
Lots of people complain on kinda poor braking efficiency , squeaky brakes , uneven wear ... after replacing the pads/discs . One thing is a must here - to bed in the brakes as soon as you fit them on . There's special procedure for this : http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in ... once that's done , the braking efficiency will be better by up to 20% , they will not squeak (at least if they're not some hard race pads with high iron/steel content) , and will wear out properly/evenly (again if there's no mechanical problem with the callipers) . D
-
Hi Guys, This thread has been helpful as I needed to swap out one cracked headlight this weekend. On the left side headlight, the adjuster screw is about 3" long, and was not connected to the plastic adjustment ball/mechanism of the headlight I removed from the car. Looking at the headlight I removed, and the new one I'm now installing, the adjustment mechanism isn't designed to work with a 3"long adjuster, rather one that's maybe only 1" long or so. Like the photos above. Did the factory use 2 different adjustment designs over the years, and I have the wrong type adjuster screw? Does anyone have a spare short style screw they'd be willing to sell and mail to the US? Unfortunately there are zero options for parts locally. Thanks in advance, Dan.
-
Pugiukko changed their profile photo
-
Late TU 16v head differences
welshpug replied to Kane's topic in TU Engine Maintenance and Performance Upgrades
there are none that I know of myself in the JP4, all 110 bhp are the same. 125 bhp jp4s is the only one that differs, which came in the C2 VTS -
Miles old 1.6GTI finally being restored after 15 year delay
rattly_black replied to rattly_black's topic in Projects & Works Starters
Primer on but plenty left to do. -
thanks all, Im torn as to what to do. As the car is having a complete refurb and pretty much everything is being replaced I think I will fit standard calipers and a decent set of pads/discs. I'm replacing all the hoses etc so maybe that will be enough.
-
I don't have a proper extraction tool. I found a small screwdriver that works. The terminals come out really easily with a bit of practice. You undo the clip at one end and then put something thin down the other end in between the terminal and the plastic housing - one side of the terminal has a small tab that folds in - then you can pull the terminals out. It's much easier to do that it is to describe...
-
I can load the website now, no problem. Thanks Ryan for the effort to make this content. What you refer to as Misc Connectors is the TE Mark3 series. What tool do you use to remove these terminals from their housings?
-
Take out the "www." part. It doesn't work with the www there as the hosting company wants me to pay extra to redirect www links to the correct page. It's annoying because sometime the forum seems to automatically put www on the start of URLs and it stops the link from working. http://ryanmoore.comule.com is the only URL that works.
