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Found 14 results

  1. Hello, i am in desperate need of the chapters 6 thru 8 of the haynes manual for my 205 since i need to change the speedo cable, clutch cable and gear linkeages, all the pdfs i've found dont have them, and where i live it is impossible for me to be able to buy the original printed manual I have uploaded the manual i have without the needed chapters in case anyone needs it thank you very much in advance peugeot manual haynes 205.pdf
  2. Hello all, It's been a while since I posted here and sadly since my 205 was last on the road. I haven't lost touch though and I've been keeping up with a few threads, especially since the East Midlands meet disbanded. Having sat in the garage for a number of years I have decided, with a lot of inspiration from Michael's thread and Paul's thread that this is the year I need to crack on and get the car back on the road so this is my refurb' thread. These are the last couple of decent photos I have going back to 2011 and 2013. I'm not going for a full restoration or respray as the car is basically sound and I want to keep some of the original character but I need to clean her up and do her justice. My mantra is "the devil's in the detail" and no square centimetre will be left untouched by way of being cleaned, treated and protected :-) I've had a few Saturday afternoons and evenings on her so far and today she looks like this. As is visible, there's rust bubbling through at the front of both rear wheel arches, underneath the cover there's a substantial amount of blooming on the roof and bonnet and the trim has faded. There's also a fair amount of surface corrosion in the usual places around the engine bay such as under the headlights and around the battery tray so I'm prioritising getting the engine and gearbox out so I can assess the damage properly. The radiator core is shot it and there's a crack in the exhaust manifold but I'm yet to see how bad this is. Internally all of the seats have holes in the cloth, the foams are pretty crappy and the bracket that holds the driver's seat outer bolster in place has snapped. It's a real shame I've let her get into this condition :-( Good news is that the last time she was on the road I did some work on the interior by way of replacing dashboard bulbs, fitting a Toad Ai606, fixing the standard retro-fitted central locking and I know the carpet is in good nick. All the glass is fine and the sunroof is in good working order (tested when I backed her onto the drive last month) and the only advisory on her last MOT was that the front coil springs have surface corrosion. So, for a DIYer I don't think there's anything that will stop me getting the car back on the road and MOT'd but I want to do a good job of refurbishing her fully so I'm going beyond the minimum required - planned list of jobs as follows: Remove the bonnet. Get on all the stuck fixings and finish clearing the engine bay ready for engine removal. I'm currently struggling with; a destroyed screw head holding the washer bottle into the inner wing, not being able to get onto the rearmost battery tray bolt head, four round nuts on the exhaust manifold, and figuring out if I can detach the exhaust manifold from the down-pipe and lift it out with the engine for splitting later. Remove front bumper and valance. Remove engine and gearbox and put to one side for a bit. Remove brake servo and anything else I can from the firewall. Remove front sub frame and put to one side for a bit. I am not planning to fully remove the wiring looms but I will be cleaning every single connector and doing as much testing as I can while I have the engine out and everything unplugged. De-grease, pressure wash and rub down the entire engine bay and front end and assess just how far the corrosion may have gone. Treat any corrosion, prime and respray any bits that need it. I'm not going to respray the whole engine bay as I want to keep the original stickers and I don't want to have to mask these off etc. so I'll be feathering what painting I need to do into the original paint. By the looks of it, I'll only be painting in areas that won't be visible once I've re-assembled anyway. The entire engine bay will then get a fresh coat of lacquer and protection (whatever that may be) and I am planning to do some nice bits such as polish the VIN plate and I think I'll lacquer over the stickers to help preserve them further. The front sub frame will be next - checking of all the usual parts and of course replacing the springs along with anything that looks like it needs to be replaced. I'll also be painting/treating (with Waxoyl, Hammerite or similar) everything that can be so it all looks really smart and is protected. The same will happen to the engine and gearbox. I don't want to take the head off as I'm not that that confident and the head gasket has never leaked. The engine also runs really well with a good idle and it's really spritley (it still kicks my wife's 206 115 HDI FAP's ass and our new 2008 115 e-HDi!) so if it ain't broke I'm not gonna fix it. However, I will replace the obvious bits (timing belt, water pump, tensioner) and no doubt I'll uncover some stuff I'll need help with that may lead to me taking the head off but we'll see. I also have a new alternator ready to fit as the previous one is really old and from a 306 DTurbo so it's over-rated and I want to go standard as I won't be re-fitting the boy-racer ICE I once had in the boot. I'll get the crack welded up in the exhaust manifold and all external surfaces on the engine, gearbox and exhaust manifold will be prepped and painted with whatever's suitable/tasteful before being put back in along with the sub-frame. It will then be a case of repeat at the rear. While I've got the wheels off I'll also be rubbing them down and freshening up the lacquer, refurbing brakes etc. and just getting her really clean and well protected. I am planning to go off piste a bit and fit a nice set of silicone hoses and I'm thinking about stiffer suspension bushes, just to liven her up a bit but I won't be lowering or messing with the standard geometry. I'm also going to to investigate radiators as I need one anyway so I might go for a smarter looking ally one but haven't decided yet. It's likely I'll need a professional to refurb the seats and deal with the rear wheel arch rust - these will be the finishing touches. I believe I'll be able to correct the blooming by rubbing back the lacquer which will release the trapped moisture and I will be able to re-lacquer the roof and bonnet and cut the fresh lacquer to blend it in with the old. A good clean up and treatment will see the trims right along with some new finishers from the classic spares list. I've already purchased some new front indicators and yellow Denji driving lamps. They won't get fitted for about a year but they look lovely in the boxes! So plenty to do - this weekend I'll be getting her up on stands (I needed them last weekend when doing my wife's brakes ahead of MOT on Saturday morning) and I'll be removing the driveshafts from the gearbox and getting on those stubborn fixings so I can hoist the engine and gearbox out over the next Bank Holiday. One mistake I have made, that I don't mind sharing, is parking the car in gear and subsequently removing all the gear linkages meaning I can't roll her around on the drive now until I've removed the driveshafts from the gearbox so it will be a tight squeeze this weekend but I should be able to manage :-) Plenty of updates and more mistakes to come. Wish me luck. Ian.
  3. Hi 205'ers, I have been meaning to do this for a while having gone through the same process with my old VW camper a couple of years ago ( http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=69499 ), I found it a great way of recording what I'd achieved and the help and advice received made a huge difference! I always wanted a 205 when I was a 'yoof' in the early 1990's, but (working in a Ford dealership) tended toward the blue oval (RS1600i, 2 x S1 RS Turbo, Capri Mk2... wish I still had them, I'd be well off now!). Even then I knew the Pug was a better car than the Escort, but I wouldn't admit it, even to myself. So, I stumbled on a bit of a 205 project about a year ago, a chap had started the resto but needed space for other projects (RS2000 Mk2, De Tomaso Pantera,...). It was quite local and at a price I was happy with to get me into 205 land. Basically it was: A 1.6 phase 2 from 1991, 79k with no history. (However, looking at the condition of the interior, engine and gbx internals and the body I'm as sure as you can be this is genuine) It had had a bump in 2004 and was written off Cat C - the damage was minimal and limited to the o/s/r 1/4 panel and rear bumper. The tailgate fitted was non-GTI. Engine, front suspension and interior already stripped out. Engine had been stripped, vapour blasted, all new parts (cylinder liners, bearings, gaskets) were supplied. Crank had been checked/polished and the head fully rebuilt. Gearbox not touched. Rear beam (seized), also not touched. Front suspension had been overhauled with new brakes, wheel bearings and the subframe p/coated. The shell was in good condition, tiny bit of corrosion on the n/s inner wing and boot floor needed 2 x 5cm square patches. The guy had already wire-wheeled the underside - which i was very happy about! Here she is as bought...
  4. lando9000

    Gearbox/clutch Problems

    Hi all, Long time lurker and first time poster here. I'm having problems with a 1989 205 GTI 1.6 with ~80,000 on the clock (no history to prove). The car has a BE1 box (reverse over first incase I'm wrong). The problems are (always a good start) that the clutch pedal feel really stiff compared to other GTI's, the box itself seems to crunch in all gears and the bite point is to the floor. The box can also be very tight trying to get it back out gear a lot. Say you're in fourth, you can have to push back the lever toward the handbrake and then move into another gear. When we bought the car we decided we were going to do a few things to try and remedy the problem but it hasn't done anything yet. We've replaced the clutch kit and the clutch cable with a genuine Peugeot one. We have put two cables in the car now as the first cable got stripped. I'm wondering have we not fitted the clutch properly (alignment issue), is it possible all sychros in the box are just f***ed cause it to crunch into every gear or is there a problem with the clutch fork mechanism (the pin between the clutch fork and the cable sometimes won't stay in)? It seems improbable (with my small amount of knowledge) that the syncros would be f***ed and crunching in all gears. Any help or insight would be great as we're at our wits end! Thanks, Andy.
  5. Hi all, Long time lurker and second time poster here. I'm having problems with a 1989 205 GTI 1.6 with ~80,000 on the clock (no history to prove). I am having problems with my brakes and suspension. Suspension first. The car need some parts refreshed according to the NCT (Irish MOT). We have replaced the lower control arms in the car as well as tie rod ends. The ball joined were blown so we decided to replaced with the whole arms. Since doing so the car has developed a knocking sound when it goes over a bump. If I'm going down a bumpy road downhill and as the car rises and falls over the bumps, there's a noise as if I'm driving over close together cats eyes. This sound is also there when going along the motorway at ~60mph and I turn the car left. It's the same sound and can be felt through the steering wheel. We bought QH control arms and tie rod ends from a supplier here if that helps. The brakes issue is that the car seems to be pulling to the left under moderate to heavy braking. We have replaced all pads with new Mintex pads, new brake fluid and rear shoes and cylinders in the drums. the front discs are pretty much new. There are currently no fixing screws in the front discs as the PO decided he didn't need them for whatever reason. Is it likely that a caliper is going to need a rebuild or is it something else? If anyone could shed any light on these topics, it would be great. We're dying to get the car out once it's safe! Andy.
  6. hi there ,i have got my self a peugeot 205 1.1 j reg (91) 3 door for a project ive done a fair bit with 205s and thought about a wee project ive decided i want to strip it out and paint in yellow and make it a 205 rallye replica and drop a 1.6 16v lump in it? i was after help on how about to do the conversion!,can you use the 1.1 running gear with 106 gti 1.6 16v engine? the 205 has a carb engine in it right now and theres no ecu! is it possible?? what sort of things do i need to change? thanks
  7. Mr_Frosty

    Rear Beam For Free.

    Hello all, I know I've not posted enough to put this in the for sale section. I've spoken to Cybernck and he said this is fine. I have a 1.6 GTi rear beam sat at my house it's been off the car for around a year. My car is now gone so I'm giving this away to anyone that wants it. Will need to be refurbished or whatever you want to do with it. It'll only end up in the scrap so thought I could offer it to anyone to make use. My house is in the YO42 4TN postcode area. I'd prefer if you could pick up but could arrange to meet somewhere near by. Any questions feel free to ask. I think there is half a rear wheel bearing included Thanks for looking. First comes first served basis.
  8. I need to replace one of the drums on my GTI. The 1.6 GTI used Girling brakes for the drums. As I understand, there were different size drums across the 205 range. How many different variations are there, and what size do I need for the GTI? In Australia we had 2 models that used drums on the rear - base model 205 Si and early model 205 GTI. Please provide more info! Thanks
  9. i have just put down a deposit on a 205 wit a gti6 engine in witch used to be in an old car of mine and the gti6 engine is f****d and i want to put the std 1.9 8v engine back in it my question is it has 1.6 gti box in and i presume a mi16 clutch i no the clutch to b a good quality luck item and very healthy as miles original done the conversion on the old car would the mi16 clutch bolt up to the stander ed 1.9 8v flywheel i would put a new clutch in but am on a very tight budget and just need it on the road help much appreciated cheers olly
  10. Hi all, Here goes on the my 1st proper post, introducing the latest purchase, how it's came about, and what the plans are for it. I'd been looking out for a GTi for quite a while. I was mainly interested in the later Ph2 cars but wasnt worried whether it was a 1.6, 1.9 or Mi16/GTi6 converted , just wanted somthing in reasonable shape, that hadnt been butchered or chavved out. Although 205 GTi's are relatively common (well, relative to the old, rain soluble Fords that I’m used to) being located in N.Ireland seemed to limit my choice a little. After viewing a few, I did eventually come across a 93 sorrento green 1.9 advertised in Dublin, so after a quick run over the border, a look around and a nights pondering, I rang the guy, agreed a price and went back down with the trailer to get it. I’ll start another thread for ‘Miss Sorrento’ later. So, now that I had got my 1st GTi, how the hell did I end up with another one? I think it’s mainly down to this ‘bug’ I’ve heard people talk about. I swear, I only went on to look for a steel water pipe, yet found myself watching loads of other parts and 205’s. Then one Saturday night, the inevitable happened and I now had a road trip to Gloucester to plan. It had been advertised as dry stored since 05, solid, but hadn’t been running. The pictures weren’t great but the interior seemed pretty good (which for a cloth interior is impressive) and there was a set of genuine mud flaps on it (which seem to be worth a lot to some folk out there!) I didn’t remember / realize until after, that the words “sold as a restoration project” and “would make good project or rally car” were in there too! So, a 33 hour / 860 mile non-stop trip via Stockport (had a friend who needed a trailer load of belongings brought over to mainland) and myself and the girlfriend were back home. Our plans for a relaxing trundle through the lake district on the way back up were scuppered by the motorway rush hour traffic. Instead we ended up grabbing a KFC in Kendal, getting slightly lost and doing a few laps of the one way system before getting back on track but having to race to make the boat. A bit of a shame because it really would have been a beautiful drive from what I could see out of the corner of my eye! As for the GTi, I think I got off quite lucky (open to honest opinions here by the way), There’s the usual small car park dents, the passengers door will need fixing and the near side inner wing has just about rotted trough in the usual spot. A few marks around the petrol cap along with a different key for the ignition suggests a theft (or at least attempted theft) at some point but apart from that the little car seems very solid and very complete. It has parts still there that I never seen before, or realized ever existed like the plastic cover for the hole in the gear box, and even a little heat shield on the gear linkage joint closest to the exhaust! ..Right, apologies for the speech, less words, more pictures..
  11. Hi all, Hope everyone is well - it's been a while since I've posted. I've just took the fat bodied starter and solenoid off my standard 1989 1.6 8v as it has given up and I need a bit of advice about a replacement please. Looking through the past threads, I see that the slimline Valeo is probably the one I need to go for rather than directly replacing the fat body unit I have just removed. However, I can't find a part number anywhere on the forum - can anyone help with the Valeo part number for the slimline unit and maybe a Valeo stockist in the Leicester area please? The Valeo website sent me to a dealer that clearly states 'Bosch only' this morning :-) I've also had a look on Ebay and the following remanufactured units have returned from the same seller but I'm unsure as to whether the slimmer unit is the one I want or not as the units are not oriented the same way in the pictures. Also, although they're not very expensive, I'm just not sure about remanufactured - would I be best to go for a recon'd original Valeo rather than a remanufactured? Fat bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1986-1991-/300556091961?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45fa8a0239 Slim bodied unit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-205-INC-GTI-NEW-STARTER-MOTOR-1-6-1-9-1991-1996-/280383292994?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4148258642 Any help would be appreciated. Thanks all Ian. ps - I'm sure that it's the starter I need to replace as I've tested all the usual and the starter's definitely knack'd - plus it's about 10 years old and seeing as I've gone to the trouble of getting it out (without removing the radiator or manifold) I want to replace it and the solenoid anyway.
  12. HI all, hope you don't mind a humble XS driver encroaching in your domain. Basically I am fitting the 14" alloys from the 1.6 GTi to my XS as I prefer the look. I was hoping to use the same wheel bolts from the XS steelies but they look a bit short and a search round the web suggests the correct bolts are flat. Now the local garage quoted 140 quid, and ebay offers a set of 16 for 110. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALLOY-WHEEL-BOLTS-FOR-PEUGEOT-106-205-206-306-309-405-960587-X-16-OE-PART-/330731049036?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item4d011b504c There are these on ebay, but only 3.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-1-6-GTI-Wheel-Bolts-x3-/321046912587?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abfe31e4b So what I'd like to know is a) What bolts can I safely use and where can get them from that won't cost an arm, a leg, and another major organ. Cheers
  13. Mr_Frosty

    How Does Yours Go?

    Hello, Well this is my first post on here just wanted to ask a few questions. I've just got my first 205 GTi (1986 1.6 in white) Wanted one for years and thought if I don't get one now I'll be too old and boring to get one. Needs a bit of work doing but I'm on with it in between the rain and such before I put it on the road. Want to keep it as original as I can. Anyway I'm looking to use this as my daily drive and to take on long trips away. I've been told by some people that these aren't really the kind of cars to do that sort of thing with as they are now getting on with age and not good on fuel ect... So how are all your cars doing? Do you use them all the time? Do you always have to fiddle/repair bits on them? How are they on fuel? (Obviously depending on driving style) What are they like on long journeys? Are they practical for everyday use? If I can think of any more things I'll add. Many thanks. Mr_Frosty.
  14. Hey all, Can anyone clarify for me which type of brakes will be on my standard 1989 G plate 1.6 please? As I'm aware they could be Bendix or Girling but I don't know which - is there a definitive guide or is it a case of just having a look? If the latter - how do I tell which are which please? I'll be looking to do the front discs and pads and the rear shoes at some point in the future so would be handy to know. Cheers Ian.
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