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Found 8 results

  1. Oreyt, Me '97 1.9 DT XUD 306 needs a new radiator. it's got damaged somehow and is leaking. I've been trying to find a new one but I've heard bad things about these reproductions from nissen, thermotech etc. Apparently the OEM one was a ordonez one. I also need to get one with a drain tap as the cheap one fitted to mine just has a blank instead! Anyone know where I could find a ordonez one or can recommend a decent replacement? Just don't want to fit a cheaply made chinese rad for it to fail again. Part no. is 1301KG if that helps. cheers
  2. I need to replace the heater matrix in my turbo diesel 306 (Coolant found in the passenger footwell, blower reeks) Looking at the haynes manual it seems simple enough if not time consuming a tedious. but I'll give myself a few days to do it. Just wondering if anyone here has done this and has any wise words before i start ripping apart the dash! cheers
  3. I'm needing a new back box for my phase 1 306 1.9 TD I was thinking of getting this sportex one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293680282335?ssPageName... But I've never had any experience with sportex. Am wondering if this would be suitable for a daily. Not too loud for my neighbours or going down the motorway but sounding decent. I know it's an arbitrary question based on peoples own opinion but it'd be good to get an idea. It's only a backbox, I'll be keeping my cat on and the description reckons it's not too loud but be good to hear from people with experience. cheers
  4. Hello I was hoping to find some in here with a great knowledge about the XU engine (should be the right place I've come ). I have a 306 Cabriolet from 1998 with a XU7JP engine (1.8 8v 101 HP). Yes the car is from 1998, and yes it came with that engine from factory. I've had a thew who didn't believe me . Right now the car is in winter storage and have been since November. Last week I moved it so a car behind it could come out. It fired right up like it had run the day before, and the engine sounded just as healthy as the day is was parked there last year. I let the car idle for about 30 minutes before it was put back. I noticed some steam coming out from under the hood when I drove the car in again, and after a quick inspection I'm 99 % sure that the head gasket have started to disintegrate. Water is leaking out between the block and the head, and it seems that it's all the way across the engine (at least where I could see). There was no smoke, no oil in the water, water in the oil or hard cooling lines. It didn't bother me that much, I've done maybe 10 head gaskets on TU engines and I'm not really scared of the procedure. I ordered a new gasket, head bolts and some other small things I would imagine is worn. But after reading a bit about the XU engine, I discovered that there are different kind of head bolts. The car right now have inside torx head bolts. I have ordered head bolts with a outside torx head. I didn't notice untill after I made the purchase that there was a difference. Other than the head of the bolt, they are exactly the same. Can I use my ordered bolts, or do I have to get a new set? I read that if you use bolts with a normal six-sided head for a car that originally had torx bolts, you could strip the threads in the block. And are there anything else I should be worried about when removing and reinstalling the head?
  5. I know its not a 205 but as the engine I have just bought used to live in one, I thought I had better start a project thread. After a long four year battle trying to build my own 205 rally car (I should of got one ready built ) I decided to strip the 205, sell bits no longer needed and buy this. It was originally built to be a track car and no expense had been spared by the previous owner. The cage had been fitted by Phillip (Rippthrough) and had Colin Satchell solid engine mounts fitted. The plan was simple, replace and fit the bits required to get it through log-booking and get out on the stages. Unfortunately that did not happen and 14 months later it is still sat in the garage on axle stands. a few pictures before work began: The bucket seats and harnesses were out of date so they were sold. I already had a brand new pair of Ricco Racing harnesses from the 205 so after a quick phone call to Motordrive a pair of bucket seats arrived: and drivers side was fitted after having to buy a new pair of side mounts: Next I moved onto sorting out my suspension. I decided started with the rear beam and as Andy (jord294) is local, I ask him to build it for me. Some negative camber on the back was in order so I sent a pair of trailing arms off to Martin (CRF450) at Bridgecraft Engineering to work his magic. A cheap 30mm arb was up for grabs on the GTi6 forum so I snapped that up and placed an order with Anthony for some 23.5mm torsion bars. A few weeks later everything had arrived and as I already had a set of solid rear mounts I took a trip up to Andy's to drop everything off. Once the parts had arrived back from powdercoating it only took Andy a few hours to put it all together. The following weekend I took the car up there to get it fitted. I ended up with AVO mono-tube fronts and two-ways on the back as I was trying to stick to a budget, looking back now I could have spent a bit more but was happy with what I had. The after-sale service from AVO seems highly rated so if I do have any problems I should be able to get them sorted pretty quickly. well I was happy with the rears until something else popped up for sale the AVO two-way rears were sold on to buy these: After waiting ages for a decent set of 4 pots to come up for sale I bit the bullet and got a pair of AP Racing CP6562 6 pot calipers they are of a solid one piece alloy construction, fitted with titanium pistons with ceramic caps to stop heat transfer into the fluid. Next up to buy was a pair of Carbone Lorraine RC6 pads, as these calipers run a smaller size pad they had to be ordered in. Here is a picture of the caliper and pads on the kitchen scales: Choosing what size rotor I was going to use would be a difficult decision. As I have 2 sets of Pro Race 2's, 1 set of Pro Race 1.2's and 3 Pro Race 1's all in 15" size and direct fit (ET15) I wanted to make sure all the alloys fitted over with no problems. I was very tempted to go with 310mm but the TD 1.2's really are p**s poor for clearance compared to the TD 1's and 2's. After much thought I went with a pair of 300x28mm rotors from Hi-Spec. I just need to get some bells and brackets made for them now. more to follow.....
  6. Hi All, Does anyone know what is the +V and -V on the fuel pump conenctor? I think its Pin2 and Pin3 to enable the pump to prime. When taking a multimeter to the feed plug, turn ignition on, it reads 12v on pin 2 and 3 for 3 secs then drops to 3v. I just want to make sure the pump is dud before buying a new one. cheers
  7. HI Everyone ive just motd my 1991 peugeot 205 dturbo 5 door in red!,after a few weeks the head gasket went so ive decided its time for an engine swap it has a 1769cc turbo diesel engine ,no intercooler! My plan is to pick up a secondhand peugeot 306 d turbo engine with the enginemounted intercooler? i do a fair bit withs cars so im not shy for a big job haha what i was wondering is does everything line up? which gearbox is best? driveshafts?? do i need to fabricate a downpipe exhaust? what other things do i need to change? i hear the power steering from 205 wont fit with 306 diffrent set up?? with he intercooler ,will it fit under my bonnet?is it worth putting a vent in the bonnet? any of your help would be fantastic!,any guides out there?,anyone done it ?? Thanks ,Stuart
  8. Hi please help. Bought myself an engine off a good mate... Long story short is he messed up cambelt change and never locked off cams. I've managed to sort it out to my knowledge by locking off cams in there locking position, pretty much common knowledge !. I also locked off crank but dont know whether if it's " coming or going" if you know what a mean, is the crank in wrong position, upside down?. I asked a friend mechanic who tells me usually piston 1 is TDC ! Closest to cams.if all 3 pins are aligned. I locked off all 3 put new belt on and turned it by hand 10 times. Can hear the compression. And both cam and crank sensors roughly hit there marks the same time. My worry is that when I line up all three locking points that piston 1 isn't TDC. And when I put piston 1 in TDC the 3 pins don't match there locking holes. Please help.