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Telf

[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

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Leslie green

Winter's are really hard on old motors , glad you are saving it from the worst of the salt and grime.

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Telf

205's the motors that just keep on giving...

 

Well  as in my other thread I appear to have some perished fuel pipes that are being replaced by the supplier so no major drama. Only spotted as i took the car for a run and thought i had a heater motor fire or something, smell coming from the vents was quite unbelievable.

 

Anyway on investigation it turned out the Cam cover breather hose had popped off spraying oil all over and onto the manifold. Bloody mess, bloody car!

 

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AlexRS2782

You seem to having a similar run of luck that i've had with my Focus RS, since i got it back on the road last summer, after it had been stored since 2010.

 

Ran well for the first week before the signs that the coilpack was on its way out - changed those and did the leads just incase - fine again.  A few weeks later started getting a small misfire - one of the plugs had cracked the tip but thankfully not dropped it in the engine.  A few weeks after that was sorted i noticed the car started smoking slightly on start up / overrun - yep that will be the turbo seals gone so i'm now in the process of speccing a replacement hybrid turbo before this summer. 

 

Plus, like yours, i need to get the mapping checked over.  All well and good but it turns out the guy that mapped my car back in '08 no longer works with Autronic which isn't a massive drama as Mark Shead does and he's not that far down the road.  However the guy that mapped the car originally decided to password protect the ecu, rather than leaving it unlocked as originally requested by my tuner.  As he never gave my tuner the ecu passcode to access it and as they no longer have the laptop with the Autronic software on, that would recognise my ecu, the end result now is i'll have to get the ecu reset and start the mapping, cold start mapping, etc, from scratch, rather than just working with & adjusting the parameters that were already there.

 

Bloody cars :lol:

 

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Telf

I actually wonder if it will ever be right, I don't remember having many issues with it before I took it all to bits, i Mean it was rusty but really it never gave me any bother , serviced once a year and it seemed to just soldier on . I think it broke down once in 7 years and about 50k miles.

Edited by Telf

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Telf

A few more months run and a continuing problem that may or may not be an issue at all.

 

Driving on a motorway all seems ok. Cornering , driving on a smooth road , all ok. Car parked , boot open bouncing the tail, nothing unusual in terms of noise .

 

However normal driving on Suffolk's B roads I get a 'clonking' noise from the rear boot area. I've mentioned this before but haven't found the reason.

 

I've checked all the axle mounts . Correctly torqued. Checked the ride height-correct. Bounced the car (literally stood in the boot and rocked the rear suspension) nothing of note. Checked the bump stops- look fine no distortion. Removed the wheels , checked the hubs,calipers , brake lines , all ok. Removed the spare wheel and carrier- noise still there. Checked the entire rear underside for any telltale marks/damage/rubs- nothing. Checked the wheel arch facing the wheels for rub marks. Nothing. Checked the dampers, look ok and the bolts - all ok no play etc.

 

The only one thing I've noticed is a paint rub on the very bottom of the bumper valance. The red paint has gone and it's white again. It was like this before the refurb so I've discounted it. 

 

So I'm thinking are all 205s a abit noisy in the boot area? Is it something I've forgotten about and I'm now fixating on it?  Anybody got any ideas?

 

It's definitely in the boot area. My other half says it sounds like someone bashing on the metal trying to escape!

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series111

Have you checked the exhaust is not knocking 

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Telf

Yep it's not the exhaust . Checked many times

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barneys66

Shock bolts / bushes..? 

 

One of mine was loose - you can hear it knocking here:

 

 

Edited by barneys66
Added video

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Telf

Barney. 

 

Shock bolts . Seem ok, tight, no play that I can see, bushes- it was all new so I can't see how it can be. Shocks are new. Move freely when I manipulate the arm with a jack.

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Telf

Hmmmmm.. sat here at work googling this. A really old comment from 2012 knocking in the rear -loose handbrake cable slapping on the fuel tank. Could it be something this simple ?!? My offside cable is always popping out the guides on the tank. Going to check this when I get a chance tomorrow.

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jackherer

I couldn't reproduce that when I had your car here.

 

Have you looked at the anti roll bar end plates? I think I might have suggested those before at some point?

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Tom Fenton

The lower shock bolts need something like 120nm to torque to spec. Just hand tight may not be tight enough.

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Telf

Cheers tom pretty sure I did them to spec but I'll double check

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Telf

Handbrake cables now secure and the lower damper bolts check torqued to 115Nm. Not quite at the correct torque as it happens, i got about 1/8th of a turn on both nuts. However the noise is still there . Annoying as hell! 

 

I can put up with the odd dash squeak,  I mean you might as well give up and sell a 205 if you cant (although my old 1.4 never rattled or squeaked in the cabin) but mechanical noises get on my nerves!

 

 

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Telf

Could this be the issue? Not sure this is correct?

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587630422293_6659004630747233371.jpeg

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Telf

I'm wondering if I've fitted it the wrong way round? I'm also wondering if it really needs to be there at all!

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welshpug

yes that looks wrong, as the suspension compresses that torsion bar will move down, its been quite a while since looking at that area of a 205 but I would say that needs to be above the torsion bar.

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welshpug

or at least possibly further down?

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Telf

There's no marks on the paint but I'm wondering if that's the noise I'm hearing ! Trying to find a pic online but no success so far

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series111

Yeah its upside down I've just checked the bar I removed from my car

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Telf

Have you got a pic please?

 

I've managed to manipulate a gap but the bloody nut that connects it to the heat shield has seized so can't remove it at the mo!

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587637153157_6659032862035503826.jpeg

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series111

Sorry I'm giving you misguided information I've just looked at mrfirepro's restoration and found this pic

Screenshot_20200423-120159_Gallery.jpg

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SootySport

Mine is the same as the photo above.  I can’t help thinking the metal loop knocks on the tank strap fold. Also wonder why there is no rubber bush to prevent a collision of the metal parts, I thought mine was missing a bush when I dismantled the beam.  

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Telf

It's fair to say when this monster job wound down last summer I thought my days of checking the car every month or so we're gone. Turns out I was wrong. It appears driving the bloody thing means I've got to continue looking after it!

 

Latest job: front mud flaps removed as I struck an object dislodging the nearside anchor point and taking some paint with it so a small paint repair today. Whilst I was at it I cleaned the arch, cleaned the suspension and running gear in that side and applied a fresh coat of anti rust film spray to all the nuts bolts and threads I could get to. 

 

It is surprising how used it all looks after 4000 or so miles 

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587823114663_6659812841127036613.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587823129040_6659812901425585856.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587823144295_6659812965410274814.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587826792574_6659828267400996413.jpeg

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1587826811031_6659828344818702051.jpeg

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Telf

i decided that id put the car up on stands after this repair. Removed the wheels and did a through inspection of the underside. Spotted a couple of other bits that needed attention. I also gave every nut and bolt a good dousing in Oil Film which is an oil/lanolin mix, should stop any excessive build up of corrosion.

 

Wheels all cleaned up and a few bits adjusted.Of note the 90 degree hose that goes into the bottom of the radiator which had started rubbing on the chassis. 

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