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Telf

[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

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Telf

Yeah maybe . They aren't torn anymore so that's a bonus

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Leslie green

They look pretty good in the pics not bad for 1/4 million miles !

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Telf

Spent an hour adding leather feed which hadnt been done. Look not too bad. Not sure I'm might just sell them!

USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_MSGR_PHOTO_FOR_UPLOAD_1560154813458.jpeg

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Telf

Here what they looked like before , now that's patina!

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Telf

And so here we go again. Bonnet No.3 goes into epoxy..

received_2285716275075719.jpeg

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Telf

Fitted new springs today. Seems to have brought the ride height to a better level. 

 

They are Vogtland springs.

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Telf

Update on my previous post in May:

 

Stuff still to do...

 

These include:

 

Fix the bonnet stay- I snapped the bolt fitting it.

 

Fit the rear interior plastics- I just can't face taking the 1/4 seals out again right now!

 

Source a trim strip for the rear of the headliner

 

Find a new digital clock

 

Buy new wheel bolts . Mine are stretched and have seen better days

 

Source new caps for the wiper arms.

 

Fit new bulbs in the instrument console

 

Fit the door pulls if I ever find the right plastic inserts for the screws!

 

So that left 4 things to do ...

 

Then I discovered my stereo doesn't work, the rev counter converter is noisy and needs to be re-homed outside the cabin, 4 speakers need fitting (forgot this!), its still leaking oil.

 

 

 

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Telf
Posted (edited)

It looks good on the road though so there is a reason for all this effort!

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FB_IMG_1562516659899.jpg

Edited by Telf
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Telf

Having had the car back on the road for a few weeks and carried out various work I'm considering removing all the standard air induction and the dummy AFM and replacing it with a short cone filter. 

 

My main reasoning for this is that it's a right pain in the ass to remove all that crap whenever I want to check/have access to anything. It looks nice and all but that's about it.

 

So as the car is on an emerald system would fitting a cone filter make any significant difference as far as the Map is concerned? I'm not sure.  Also what are Pros and cons of doing this - I've no experience really.

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Anthony

I wouldn't have thought that it would make any meaningful difference to the mapping as you're using MAP sensor for load aren't you, which will compensate to a limited degree.

 

Difference?  Likely no benefit power wise (perhaps even a slight loss due to the lack of cold air feed), a little more induction noise, and much less underbonnet clutter!

 

Remember that if you remove the dummy AFM that I think houses your air temperature sensor currently, you'll need to add a separate air temperature sensor somewhere and adapt the loom/connectors (I'm assuming you've a 5 pin JPT plug at the moment and more IAT's are 2 pin)

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Telf

I have wondered about the difference between effectively sucking hot air from the engine bay with a modded induction cone versus the standard system. Although the standard system has cold ram air when moving I wonder how much it heats up due to the position of the standard air box - it must be quite a bit?

 

Obviously the air temp sensor negates the effect to a degree. It seems like a bloody awful design at face value. 

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DamirGTI

Rule of thumb says for each +7C increase of inlet air temp you lose about 1-2% Hp .

 

Dunno how much the OE airbox is affected by exhaust heat , not the ideal place for it but surely certain percentage of the exhaust heat will be blown away back and down the floor .. at least while driving  .... think worse for under bonnet temp. would be if the ex. manifold was placed up front of the engine .

 

Inlet tract is pretty good made from factory , if fitting cone filter best to make an sealed cage for it ..

 

D

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jackherer

The original Peugeot system is very optimised, there are no gains to be made, only losses!

 

I fitted a K&N kit in the nineties for the reason you describe, it took so long to remove all the standard stuff just to do simple little jobs.

 

If you do take it all off it was worth fitting it in the first place just to see the look on John's face when we turned up at Emerald for a mapping appointment and the first thing he noticed was a Jetronic AFM :lol:

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Telf

despite replacing the starter solenoid wiring as far as the brown plug under the dash im still having issues with it not starting- particularly if the car gets hot.

 

I know its a known thing on 205s but its bloody annoying!

 

Anyway the other day it happened again at Kierans place- as soon as we injected 12V directly onto the solenoid contact it starts so im going to do the relay Mod and remove and resistance related issues with the start circuit....

 

Bloody stupid car!

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Telf
On ‎7‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 4:56 PM, Anthony said:

I wouldn't have thought that it would make any meaningful difference to the mapping as you're using MAP sensor for load aren't you, which will compensate to a limited degree.

Anthony- it has transpired that Emerald didn't map the car with the MAP sensor active- they can give no reasonable explanation as to why not. Pretty annoyed tbh. The car is going back next month and we will see whats what then.

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Tom Fenton
17 hours ago, Telf said:

despite replacing the starter solenoid wiring as far as the brown plug under the dash im still having issues with it not starting- particularly if the car gets hot.

 

I know its a known thing on 205s but its bloody annoying!

 

Anyway the other day it happened again at Kierans place- as soon as we injected 12V directly onto the solenoid contact it starts so im going to do the relay Mod and remove and resistance related issues with the start circuit....

 

Bloody stupid car!

Before hacking the wiring about, check the connections into the fuse board, on the large plugs under the steering column, and then last thing change the ignition barrel for another/a new one. It’s high resistance in the circuit somewhere, it isn’t always in the engine side of the loom after the brown plugs.

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Telf

Tom whilst I agree it's high resistance it literally only does it when it is hot. Never ever when it's cold. This leads me to think it must be engine bay related. Regardless I won't hack the wiring, it's my trade in real life so I'm quite proficient. I am just going to change the connector from the ignition to a relay connector and wire the relay in taking the positive from the battery feed to the starter and connecting a earth . Should be simple.

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Tom Fenton

Your SAD won’t work without the original wire connected to the starter. 

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Telf

the SAD isn't fitted

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Telf

its been mapped out on the Emerald ECU

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bluesleeper

Just read this thread end to end. Great job dude! I hope when I finally start my resto I can get it half as good! 

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Telf

It's still ongoing in truth... Just not costing quite much!!!

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Telf

So bringing other threads together the car still isn't quite finished.

 

The main issue has been the Map which I had done. This basically was completed with a leaky exhaust which threw the Map out. Although it ran ok the car stank of unburnt fuel. 

 

A replacement exhaust has now been fitted and next week I am back off to Emerald for another attempt to Map it. 

 

Hopefully this will sort the issue then I'll just have a few minor bits to contend with before it goes into a winter slumber.

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Telf

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Edited by Telf

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