[Engine_Work] Dobboy's Clean-Up / Gti6

[Anthony 1,000]

But, say it's never been skimmed before and the head is less than the 0.2mm max skim, does that mean the 1.2 gasket is ok?

If it had never been skimmed and if it is was a 0.15mm skim then it should be fine using standard cams at standard timing, as I said above.

 

It's not a case that at 0.2mm skim the valves suddenly hit the pistons, it's merely the point at which Peugeot deem the head to be out of spec due to amongst other things the reducing valve-piston clearance and the rise in CR. I'm sure there's plenty of people out there running with heads skimmed beyond that point, knowingly or otherwise.

 

If you're ever likely to run hotter cams or try advancing the timing however, then you need all the clearance that you can get and I'd run the 1.4mm repair gasket.

 

Think of this another way - in my GTi-6 engine I'm running a Petert inlet cam that at TDC puts the inlet valve as close to the piston as about 3 or 4 skims like you've just had would do on a standard cam/timing. It's obviously out of tolerance by Peugeot's standards running such a cam and at such reduced clearance, but having checked it's still within the limit of what's safe.

 

At the end of the day, you're the one putting the engine together so you're the one that needs to measure and make a call on the gasket. None of us can guarantee that something will be safe as we can't measure and check.

[Anthony 1,000]

And to add to the mix, there are three different thickness gaskets on ECP, a 1.1 a 1.15, and a 1.35.

I'd treat much of what's listed on ECP and GSF with a large pinch of salt, as I suspect they're probably generic XU10 gaskets and not a GTi-6 specific MLS gasket. Not only that, but they have a habit of supplying something different to what's advertised anyway, which is bloody annoying...

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I went and seen a guy i know who used to work with peugeot and he said to use the 1.4 gasket if the head is as what machine shop said they skimmed.

 

Thanks all for your input.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

more queries.

 

 

The 1.4 gasket listed above is the one i should be ordering? even if it isn't MLS?

 

also, regarding the head bolts, the two heads i've took off recently had female torx heads, the new Payen bolts have male torx heads which i'll need to buy a socket for. IIRC the old female torx heads were T50(ish), what would the code be for the socket for the Payen ones as i'd rather buy one good socket that i'm going to use to tighten the head rather than a set of 5hitty ones i'll never use?

 

I also looked at the new Payen bolts and they have washers, with reference to the service box notes on the bolts, if my old bolts had washers then they should remain on the new Payen bolts?

 

TIA

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Anyone^?

 

Also, do i need cam lube?

 

And, what is the bits that get filled with oil? Will the machine shop have done that already?

 

And..... This degree gauge thing that is used when tightening up the head bolts, is it necessary?

[allye 530 3 Cars]

I'm all for people giving it a go, but honestly should you be screing this together!?

 

When some one asked if the degree torque setting is neccessary its time to worry.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

I'm not asking if the degree setting is necessary, i'm asking if the tool is.

 

But your right, i shouldn't be doing this..... Thanks for your help!

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

 

And..... This degree gauge thing that is used when tightening up the head bolts, is it necessary?

 

Yes do it by the book and you shouldn't go wrong with regards to the rest the machine shop will usually lub everything up but I'd personally still add some some extra.

[Mattr5uk 20 5 Cars]

At the end of the day you can't put a price on the experience you'll gain giving it a go even if it all goes tits up.

 

If it was a more modern car/engine I wouldn't recommend wasting your time and effort.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Thanks Matt, it's only nuts and bolts right?!

 

i've took two heads off so i've got a good idea what to expect, just wanting to have everything i need in place and know what i need to do so i can do it swiftly.

 

I'll soon have put one on ????

[Dizzee stuff 33 1 Cars]

Make sure you empty the cam followers before fitting.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Slight progress, Malc delivered me his engine hoist, thank you very much.

 

Also built the remaining bits of the head up carefully and pinned it. In the pinned position No4 ex valves, and no.3 inlets are open.

 

Anyone know what these little bits are for in the bag? Could they be to do with the vacuum pump?

 

 

1.4 Gasket should be here by 22nd, hopefully get some hours at dismantling car at the weekend.

[welshpug 1,622]

look like they are for the vac pump.

 

you need better pins than allen keys.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah WP, they aren't a great fit but will do For the time being. I was more concerned that i would struggle to get the cams/pinning points into position without them springing and valves clattering each other, but it was no bother.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Had the car at a car show yesterday down the Borders at Lauder.

 

Over 1000 cars were at it, all sorts, from pre war cars to brand new Corvettes.

 

I thought mines looked clean all round until I saw a few other cars that pro detailers had entered into the competitions.... wow, and a few of them gave me some advice. Apparently a water spray and a poundland microfiber isn't ideal.

 

It was the only 205 there.

 

Lots of people asking about it (on the occasions I owned up it was mine), and I think lots were glad to see it there.

 

A few pics from when I first arrived and got into my allocated position.

 

 

 

 

Still to change this head though!

[ablister 31]

Still to change this head though!

And the wheels...

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

And the wheels...

 

Your entitled to your opinion.........

 

I like them.

[Bogsye 22]

I like the wheel too - suit it nicely IMO.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

So, eventually decided to make a start.... couple of hours at it earlier today.

 

Decided to do it in my garage this time so i can just chip away at it, so this involved a quick shuffle of cars/van. The little CJ started ok considering it's been sat for months and it's now in the drive with a cover on it.

 

I knew my newish "low entry" jack was still too tall to go under the front valance to get on the sub-frame, so i cut up a scaffolding board to make a set of ramps/steps for the front, and set up my ramps at the back, quick measurement, and went for getting it up on all fours.

 

With a bit of assistance i got it up and ready.

 

Bit concerned i don't have the headroom to lift the engine out with the bonnet arm disconnected and fully up, but i'll drop the front end down if required.

 

I always find it much easier to get set up before i start, get it up off all fours, as high as it can go, it saves my old back! and makes the work easier underneath it.

 

If i remember i think i'll remove the backing on the valance grill to try get more air/cooling in.....would like a new performance rad but not seen one with a bung to drop the coolant..... will see.

 

Malcs got his crane back, so i'll need to borrow one more local which hopefully shouldn't be a problem.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The engine out/in is a piece of pi55 after doing it a few times, and an ex pug/rally car mechanic's gonna help me torque the head up..... hopefully all should be straight forward.

 

Noticed my water leak has made a mess under my OS, so i maybe treat some bits to a bit of black smoothrite, even though they're not even a year old......grrrrr.. but hey ho.

 

 

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Got the engine out today, fairly easy.

 

So started stripping manifolds off and thought i'd investigate my water leak that i thought was from the water pump gasket.

 

Seems it's actually coming from behind the sprocket thing, perhaps a bearing seal. This pump's a Gates one and lucky if it's done 5k miles.......grrrrrr

 

[Josh_Quant 27]

What make pump?

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

It came with a Gates timing belt kit.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Had another hour at it today.

 

First thing this morning i phoned ECP about the water pump, apparently i need to buy another, give them the old one for testing, and they'll then refund me if it's found to be faulty..., dicks.

 

Anyway, after borrowing a suitable female torq socket, then having to borrow a 3/8 extension bar and adapter as the 1/2" stuff doesn't fit down the head, i carefully loosened the head off, each bolt a bit at a time in reverse tightening order. Very surprised and glad to see the head, block, and gasket look to be original and in very good condition. Couldn'd see any evidence of valve to piston marks on the face of any valves, but i suspect if i turned a cam over there would be a shinny bit on the back of a valve that caused the tapping.

 

 

 

Will hopefully fit the refurb'd head tomorrow night and start building it all back up.

 

Quite enjoying doing it, which is a surprise.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Had a full evening at it tonight, only stopped cos running low on daylight.

 

The head is on! Woo hoo!

 

Also got new water pump on, timing belt on, Tstat on, exhaust mani, coil packs, and all the covers,

 

Just need to fit inlet and it can go back in.

 

Shattered and sore.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Full day at it today, 6.15am to 8pm. Two baths in coolant and a shower in gearbox oil later, it's in and runs. First click and it was going. A bit tappy to begin with but it's sounding as it should now after a few runs ticking over.

 

Just need to change OS driveshaft seal, and tighten wishbones and it can go back on it's wheels and hit the road.

 

New Nissens rad fitted, and a vibratech top mount. I can see the difference the top mount has made already.

 

Relief.....