[Engine_Work] Dobboy's Clean-Up / Gti6

[opticaltrigger 52]

Nice one Jack.

Keep the updates coming.

 

All the best

O.T.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

The red Saxo is away and the guy gave me £50 for the car and the bits me and a friend chucked in the back of it. The guy was delighted, lots of spare shafts, two decent engines, alloy rad, spoilers, panels, etc etc. I'm just glad to have gotten rid of it as the local scrappy was wanting me to pay him.

 

Got all my exhaust parts for the Saxo now, a second hand 4-2-1 Raceland (which is not the best but meant to be ok if it fits correctly) and a Saxosport/Pugsport/Scorpion system, which is very very light and supposed to be great. Hopefully fit these next weekend.

 

Will pick up a different set of seats from a member on here (Mac Crash) this weekend, and also pick up the rest of Malcs cage whilst i'm there for him with a van. Have previously collected a 309GTI beam from MacCrash for my 205, but i'm in two minds about rebuilding and fitting it as i'd want it powder coated etc and the Saxo has had more spent on it than i initially intended...... we'll see.

 

 

Today i did a shuffle of cars to get the CJ back into the back of my garage, and i started up my GTI and took it a very short spin to make sure everything was in order.

 

My GTI and Saxo together, before the GTI went back indoors..... (my neighbours must love me!)

 

[calvinhorse 870]

The raceland manifold was supposed to be really good lengths as I remember, one of the best on the market... Purely by accident!

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Yeah Calvin? Good to hear.

 

I had some bother removing it from the sellers car, and i noticed one of the studs has to be chopped to allow it to fit because the bends on the pipes are so tight to the head, and the alternator has to come off to tighten loosen one of the nuts. Hopefully when it on my car it won't need to come off for a while. Quality of it looks ok though, and i'm hoping to gain a few pony's when combined with my system ????

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Seats changed over (a bargain from Mac Crash), and i'm much happier with the new driving position and can still reach my bias valve.

Also changed the oil and filter, and took the existing exhaust manifold off. And sold a VTR 4/2/1 manifold and system (from the red car) via Gumtree.

 

 

Things to do to get mobile:

Fit harnesses/eyebolts

Collect tyres (from AMS) and get them fitted to my black speedlines

Fit full exhaust

Fit towing strap

Hoover/clean it out

Find fault on NS sidelight wiring

See about an MOT/getting it road legal

 

I'll eventually be making my own poly carb side windows, and fitting lightweight door cards to cover all the holes, but the immediate priority is getting mobile as there is a track day on the 6th Feb that i'd like to be in a position to attend if I wanted to.

 

My two exhaust manifolds compared. The bigger looking one which was on the car when I bought it causes problems when fitting the lower strut brace, hence why I got the smaller looking one.

 

 

 

Feels like it's coming together a bit now.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Spent the morning finishing my harnesses and fitting the exhaust. The exhaust sounds nice, quite quiet ticking over then gets louder as it revs up.

 

 

Fitted my lower strut brace, which i bought second hand, it had signs of scrapping the road on it so i got it powder coated. After fitting it i realise why it was scrapped when i bought it, it only sits about 5" off the road, if that.

 

 

 

Also noticed a wet fitting on my bias valve, so i'll need to have a look at it, maybe wrap some ptfe tape around the fitting.

 

Took it up the end of the street and back, and i can now hear the diff, which i couldn't before, so maybe it had sat so long it was just needing loosened off or something.

 

Seat position is spot for me since changing the seats over, and i'm not hitting any of the cage with my helmet on.

 

Car feels nice and tight, and nippy, but i suspect it might disappoint me on the track when i see Malc lapping me.

 

Local scrappy had one C5 wheel, some fooker just beat me to the other three, which he sold for £10 a wheel.

 

I've sold the VTS wheels, but have a set of black 205 wheels i can use until i find other C5 wheels.

 

Thinking i might and should tackle the timing belt, or at least have an eyeball at it.

 

Itching to get a decent shot in it and might take it out tonight up the back roads when it gets dark.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

So had a little go in it, it doesn't hang about.

 

Managed to rattle the strut brace coming down a small hill quite fast and 5hat myself.

 

Can hear an odd knock from the back end, think it might be from the beam so will have to ckeck it's tight.

 

Car sounds brilliant when it's going, and brakes are very good. Not sure if i like having PAS or not as it feels mega light.

 

Need to adjust the headlights and get tracking done.

Edited February 6, 2016 by dobboy

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Managed to get an hour at it yesterday morning. Got the GF out in her jammies again to get in the boot and try tighten the beam (she was well pleased as you can imagine).

 

Got a couple of turns on one nut, and the head eventually took a grip underneath that let me give it the final nip in the boot.

 

So, took it another blast for 5 or 6 miles, wet roads cold tyres etc. It feels really good and the traction is brilliant, and so are the brakes (EBC Bluestuff on the front).

 

I can hear the diff now at slow speeds but I still don't feel any snatching from the diff through the steering wheel despite me trying to make it understeer a bit, should I? (the diff is tran-x and I believe it had limited use and then it sat dry for a while, and the previous owner couldn't remember how it had been set up, all he knew was it had been set of for track).

 

I've only recently began to actually hear it at slow speeds etc, and I don't get any clunking and wondering if the box needs some miles on it to get it fully operational. The box currently has new Fuchs Titan Syn 5 in it, which i'm going to change as per the Total BV thread.

 

I still have the noise from the back end and think I may have found the problem.

 

 

On one side the bolt (item 70) is half in and squinty and I think results in item 6 having some movement on it.

 

Can someone tell me what it screws into?..... I fear the threads maybe knacked with a good chance the bolt will snap getting it out. Could the part item 70 goes into be drilled/tapped out to allow me to use 10mm?

 

TIA

[Anthony 1,000]

Part #6 is the anti-roll bar endplate and bolt #70 screws into the trailing arm itself (the light grey part in the picture).

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Thanks Anthony, so if the thread that 70 goes into is knacked, it could be drilled out/tapped to 10mm? (Also drill out the end plate to)

[welshpug 1,622]

if that bolt has come loose the bearings will be shot, its a very common symptom of worn out 106/206 beams, the arms get a right tilt on due to how closely spaced they are.

tapping out to M10 can be done but is not often successful as its cast iron.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Not what I want to hear WP..... (especially as I got new Grp A mounts pressed in which was a task.) and have just done all the brakes.

 

I had checked the beam (as far as I can), jacked up, jack under the tyres etc and there is no camber or movement on wheels etc, and trailing arms move freely.

 

 

will have closer look when it eventually stops raining.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

 

I can hear the diff now at slow speeds but I still don't feel any snatching from the diff through the steering wheel despite me trying to make it understeer a bit, should I? (the diff is tran-x and I believe it had limited use and then it sat dry for a while, and the previous owner couldn't remember how it had been set up, all he knew was it had been set of for track).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diff will only start to work at the point where an open diff reaches it's limit, most road going FWD cars will naturally understeer, so you need to adopt this in your driving style, throw in early and aim for the ditch with the inside wheel, try to lift the inside wheel or make it very light, then your diff will start to do it's work... an open diff will spin up the inside wheel and you will lose all drive to this axle. Bear in mind LSD's are not for really for public road use, they are intended solely for competition use where every second matters... won't really help you much on public roads, it's all or nothing really... bear in mind a competent driver with an open diff will be quicker than an average driver over the same road with an LSD... every day of the week

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Checked the beam out and it's fine, thank the lord. The wonky screw was on the original beam i got rid of.....doh.

 

Had a look about underneath and the only thing suspect was the set of shockers that looked older than me.

 

So ordered a set of Gaz adjustibles with a two week lead time on them on Monday, and surprisingly they arrived yesterday, and i fitted them last night. Took it a spin on a mid setting and the knocking is away.

 

Also noticed that these shockers are handed.

 

 

Collected a great treaded set of Federal tyres from AMS (on here) yesterday c/w a very dodgy looking crack accross each tyre (a well documented defect on the net which is supposidly ok/safe. Will have to fit them to a set of SL's whilst i look for cheap C5's.

 

Sorted my sidelight tonight.

 

Just the horn to attend to and i think it's ready to pass an MOT......hopefully soon.

 

My polycarb has also arrived and i've ordered appropriate blades, to allow me to make my windows first dry weekend. I'm hoping to loose a little bit of weight through removing the glass and gubbins/motors etc. The polycarb came wrapped in a thin dual wall polycarb which should do my door cards.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

". bear in mind a competent driver with an open diff will be quicker than an average driver over the same road with an LSD... every day of the week

And an average driver with a LSD will be quicker than an average driver without one ????

 

I know the difference with how my 205 behaved pre and post ATB diff, it was a very worthwhile upgrade. And i know how bad a 106GTISaxo is without a diff as i've had two shots on two separate trackdays a few months ago. My point is i thought with the tranx i'd feel it working through the steering, and it would take a bit of effort to keep hold of the steering wheel, it suits me if i don't as i'll prob remove the PAS as i find it too light. I also thought i would hear it clunking.

 

ATB ????

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Well said, but I think they would still both be the same... let me know how you get on with the polycarb windows, I'm interested in this too...

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Well it's in for an MOT, and I've told them about the diff/bias valve etc and they're happy not to put it on the brake machine. Only concern is where the lights are pointing to as I'm not convinced I've set them to where they should be pointing, and my horn is temperamental. I want it road legal to get some miles on it before going on track in case there's any niggles that need sorted out.

 

But in optimistic preparation I've got a quote for insurance, £290 fully comp or 270 TPF&F.... pretty sure that's the same price as my modified GTI fully comp on agreed value with everything declared, seems odd/expensive to me.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Well it passed with no advisories, and is now taxed and insured ????

 

Had a go in it, think i'll need to adjust the rear shockers as it's a bit lairy, they're at 11/18 just now, although the roads are slippy.

[Reebmit 51 4 Cars]

Sounds expensive Jack, my 205's with all declared are around £90 each, fully comp, 3 or 5000 miles I think. Not agreed value though. I use classic policy with RH Specialist and thats without using any no claims. I have cage, carbs, suspension etc listed

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Sounds expensive Jack, my 205's with all declared are around £90 each, fully comp, 3 or 5000 miles I think. Not agreed value though. I use classic policy with RH Specialist and thats without using any no claims. I have cage, carbs, suspension etc listed

Maybe so, but I know someone with a smart GTI who had a normal policy, had a bump, and got offered a few hundred pounds for his very smart GTI as that was the "book" price.

 

I'd rather pay more and know i'm covered, on my GTI anyway. The saxo i'm not too fussed and just want to be legal.

 

The Tax on the Saxo was a shocker at £290/year, as my car for some reason is Bank K, where some VTS' are band J at £265/year.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

On Saturday I set about making my polycarb windows. Got a bit of big kitchen worktop and screwed some ikea legs on to it, an old dogs blanky to put on top, got the tools all set up etc and it started snowing!.

 

Carried on regardless, removed NS rea window which has a slight concave/convex on it, and rolled it over the polycarb to get it marked bang on. I was wanting to keep the opening function of them in case it get's too hot in the car.

 

 

I cut it out using a jigsaw with a 28TPI blade, and it was no problem whatsoever. I drilled/piloted the holes with a 3mm HSS drill them took them out to 10/12mm. Kept the drilling very very slow so as not to crack the poly carb, and all went well.

 

 

Then fitted the polycarb window.

 

However, as the poly carb is flat (and the glass concaved), when the windows are closed there was a gap between the polycarb and the window rubber seal.

 

So took the polycarb back off and compared the weight of the window and polycarb window, and there was very little difference.

 

So I put the glass back in then called it a day.

 

I've decided only to do the fronts (when I know I have good weather for a few hours) as it'll let me remove the motors/linkage/gubbins/wiring. The fronts should be ok as the polycarb will be held in on the door channels, and probably do the rear too, and I've thought of an easy way to do sliders on them.

 

Very easy material to work with, you just need the correct blade and use slow speed when drilling.

 

 

Then went out in it for a wee while, surprised how fast it feels. It ticks over quite quiet but when you rev it's nuts off it's very loud.

 

Cooling light came on but there is plenty water in it, and also the engine management light comes on. I think the management light is coming on cos I have the second lambda sleeved, and hoping the cooling warning light is just a dodgy switch but will have a look at it.

[Mac Crash 78 1 Cars]

Jack, how much did the polycarb cost? and was there enough for 5 windows including rear screen?

 

I'm considering these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Peugeot-205-Lexan-Polycarbonate-Window-Kit-/121807852406?hash=item1c5c505376

 

Choice of tint and 50% lighter than glass... I feel the price is worth for it for the quality and time saving.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Hi Mac, I measured up and bought enough (just) to do both sides and rear and I think it was £109 or £119 delivered, and another couple of quid for blades.

 

That price on your link seems good as it has the slider kits fitted (and VAT included). I think mines worked out at £240 from elsewhere.

 

http://www.acwmotorsportplastics.co.uk

 

It would be easy to fork them up, so maybe better buying a kit to avoid the risk and hassle.

 

 

The 4mm stuff is nowhere near 50% lighter than my glass, (I should have weighed the glass) I would say it was nearly the same, with both being fairly light.

 

I think my overall delivery had 15kg on the box, with only the odd shape of the glass as the spare, but maybe the 15kg was a sort of over egg'd standard delivery weight used.

[Dizzee stuff 33 1 Cars]

if the base model saxo has none opening 1/4 windows you could use the seals and fit the polly windows, this is how its done in the 205.

[dobboy 231 2 Cars]

Good thinking Dizzee, but think i'll just keep the glass in the back.