[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[welshpug 1,622]

the lower the ampage the smaller the stator is to a point, hence the lower rotating weight.

 

however given the same electrical load on a 90 or a 50 amp alternator you'll get the same drag at steady speed.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

ok great thanks, just need to find a small alternator now which isnt the cost of a race unit which isnt easy because when buying an alternator you know what model you want as its normally a replacement and so sizes arnt listed

 

They all look the same size in a picture

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ok all my pics now uploaded to photobucket

 

see:

 

Photobucket

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Nippon Denso Alternator now purchased, taken from a Daihatsu Move 847cc 40amp

 

Now all i need to do is sort out the Alternator and Crank pulleys so they match which they currently do not.

 

Anyone any ideas?!

 

Alternator currently has single large groove pulley and i need 4 groove to match crank pulley or im thinking from looking at Service Box the TU engine have a similar Single large groove crank pulley?!

[Dj_mini 7]

Iv sent you a pm with the info on what i did sounds like your using the same alternator as i did.

 

Dont forget your need the plug to wire the entiser circuit in

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh I've found a wiring diagram for a denso 2 plug alternator, do you mean Excitor Wire?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Pics of the new Denso Nippon 40amp (A073) Alternator which i have pulled apart and re-condition inside and out to look nice and shiney.

 

I would like to try it out to test it so might rig it up on my bench to a battery with the excitor wire and ignition switch and earth etc and spin it up on my bench grinder with the wire wheel on the old alternator pulley and see what voltage the battery reads

 

 

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

and the wiring diagram.......

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Jenvey throttle bodies arrived today and look awesome, now have everything sorted for the TB set up just need to get it all to Mass now, only thing is Balance Motorsport didn't forward my request to swap the throttle lever to the PQR2 so need to send it back to Jenvey to get it swapped over.

 

See pics in my photobucket of the TB kit and others here:

 

Photobucket account

 

Also now ordered a larger 90mm O/D alloy alternator pulley from Colin and a smaller 113mm O/D blue anodised alloy crank alternator pulley from Force Racing (thanks Tom for recommending them) so I can underdrive my alternator and save drag on the engine, alternator I have is a Nippon Denso A073 which weighs 2.7kg and is half the size, perfect application.

 

Regards

 

Simon

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Another one in the frame for you, I see you have the horrid Fuel rail they supply, I really would use a one piece item as it will save any leaks and with 'Dash' fittings on the end

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Have always dreamed of getting TB's

 

Oh never knew they werent a preferred item, was advised to get this part with the package

[Sandy 189]

No deliberately being awkward, but I've fitted heaps of those rails and as long as the ends of the cut down inter-pipe are de-burred to protect the internal o-rings, no probs at all.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

LOL, Just belt and braces, The less joins the better in my book and I;ve known of a few of these to leak now,

It's advised because it's easy and cheap, the custom rails are a little more money

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

New Alloy crank alternator pulley compliments of Force Racing

 

113mm outer diameter which is 10% smaller than std to underdrive the alternator

 

Pulley 1

 

Pulley 2

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Engine update from Mass:

 

Majority of the build is now done, 2 MLS Cometic gaskets have arrived to be tested to determine which fits better, block and head water and oil ways have been matched. Still aiming for 12.5:1 CR which John thought was rather conservative for my application but i also need reliability so we’ll stick with that.

 

Having big problems trying to get a new gasket plate from Peugeot for the GTi6 Oil pump so this is holding them up and also the GTi6 Windage Tray doesn’t fit into the XUD9Y Block so John is going to make up one of his own and incorporate some extra baffles for the GTi6 sump (as well as the trap door already in the sump).

 

8v XU10 head has been pulled apart and fully tested, in doing so has found the Double Valve Springs i have been running are by far not up to the job, they are too soft and have no tension at full lift so a new set is being sourced. These are 2 seasons old now and came with the Catcam from QEP so i don’t know if they have always been too soft or just wear over the 2 seasons, however the ever faithful Matt at QEP should have tested and found this issue when he swapped the Springs and Cam etc into the XU10 head in the summer of 2009 and they have had very little use since then so again thanks Matt.....

 

So things are coming along very nicely and looks on track to be with by the end of Feb (fingers crossed)

 

Regards

 

Simon

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Valve Spring issue now resolved – Mass have fitted Titanium Retainers and Schrick Valve Springs normally used in Race BMW engines, they use these regularly and have great results with them and have fixed the issue perfectly.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Can someone please tell me the length from centre to centre of ball/socket joint of the long gear rod on the 205 please, need to cut a new piece of threaded bar for mine as it popped off and got bend into a lovely Z shape in the crash

 

thanks

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Anyone.......?

[jackherer 543]

IIRC that measurement is shown in the Haynes manual.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Next mission, new exhaust system.

 

Exhaust System

 

Please see the above link to see what i have come up with, i have tried to make something with little or no disruption to the undertray and diffuser and suits the best so far. The main rear silencer will sit above the diffuser in the large space where the tank used to fit and the pipes will comes out of each side into a 90degree bend heading under the damper mounts and out the back possibly angled up slightly with a slash cut end. For mid-silencers i have a choice of a small Cherry Bomb or i can shorten down my large 5" diameter 22" long repackable silencer or i can buy something new altogether however i would prefer to use what i already have.

 

Mass said my manifold may be lacking in ID of the 4 pipes and could restrict the engine, they will see how it fairs on the dyno session and may have a hunt round for an old hot rod mani they have kickin round

 

Anyways my concerns with this system is flow with having the "T" setup with the rear silencer, does this look suitable?? I think the 2.5" pipe diameter will counteract the "T" setups added back pressure.

 

Opinions please

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Welcome to the new home of my build (Thanks again Graham for the move) now i can give you reviews of the whole build in one so hopefully you will give me your opinions, ideas and advice as its all very welcome.

 

So as the engine is being built as we speak by Mass Racing i have been concentrating on getting the shell finished.

 

It now has full undertray front to back which a large 7deg diffuser bring up the rear end (see my photobucket account for pics)

 

As you can see below it now has our Guernsey flag on the roof sprayed by my dad and he has also polished up the paint work to a glass finish, cant wait to get it out in the sunlight.

 

Still have a very long list to work through but its getting there quickly now.

 

I have had lots of trouble trying to work out the best exhaust design, because the diffuser at the back i cannot have a rear exit exhaust without cutting into the diffuser to get over the beam and then building a tunnel in the diffuser to house the ehaust to the back, this means i am going for a side exit, original idea was dual exit one either side but the transverse single side entrance dual either end exit silencer was just too big for the space and would leave too little space for heat to dispurse. So i am having to compensate on size and go for a single side exit exhaust, still the oval silencer im looking has a volume slightly bigger than my last seasons one so should bring the db's down a little on the new engine plus it'll have a 90deg bend which also helps bring db's down.

 

As you can see the dimma spoiler is now pre-fitted (but not yet sprayed) and looks good i reckon, as you can see the ends of the spoiler look a little different to the std dimma spoiler, this is because its for a different phase 205 boot lid than the one i have and it also didnt come with the end pieces which attach to the body shell to give the wrap around effect. This meant i had to chop the ends of and mould new ones to make it narrower at the front so its starts at the width of the car and widens out to the rear.

 

Update on the engine, head is being fitted as we speak after all modifications have been done including sourcing the Cometic MLS head gasket and matching Head, Gasket and Block Oil/Water ways. Got a small issue with the loom regarding a Baro Sensor but nothing major a quick call to Sandy for advice wont sort and also the damn water temp sensor i got sent with the TB kit was M12 x 1.25 and the thread in the water housing is M14 x 1.25 so its a little loose fitting and may leak so need to source another, probably OMEX.

 

Anyways check out the latest pics and more in my photobucket account. Let me know what you think

 

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

To be fair, running the exhaust down the back and having to use a slice out of the diffuser isn't to bad. No offence but how much gain do you think your going to get from the diffuser alone?

 

In my own opinion your running to high to gain lots, and you havn't got the facilities to test it to make sure it does what you want even. I feel that a small fillet out of the diffuser to let the exhaust out isn't a bad thing. If you let it out early enough and with a bit of planning you could even make it that little bit cooler with a blowen diffuser

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

To be honest the side exit exhaust is just as much to save me time and hassle having to measure cut and fix up the diffuser for the exhaust, either way I need to source new pipe and silencers as I'm moving to 2.5" system. So there's no real gain in a rear exit exhaust just more work whereas side exit is more planning.

 

Haha and I had thought of an early exit for blown diffuser but I wanna be able to see the exhaust exit, nothin like feeling the compression out the exhaust and seeing the flames :0)

[Cameron 16]

Just a quickie, would you be able to have the exhaust exit just in front of the rear wheel? If you have a tailpipe that is very long (like your drawing) it can create boom issues so you're best off keeping it short if you can.

 

A blown diffuser is a bad idea imo, very difficult to design it properly without weeks of CFD!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

The tail pipe will be approx 30cm long, I'll draw up a sketch of my latest design with silencers I have available to me off the shelf as it seems I can't get the custom one I want made.

 

What are "boom issues" and also do you know if you can bend 2.5" pipe 90deg, someone told me they could only do 50deg on 2.5"??