[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[Rich_p 23]

Not sure if it's been mentioned but there is also a strange looking mount kit on the combrake website.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Yeh ive seen that one, all that looks different to the norm is the top mount design, removing the old std mount section and the large mount that screws into the chassis for plate with a horizontal looking bush, still not solid mounted though, just uprated i'd say and looks pretty.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Plus if im right in thinking, this top mount relies on one horizontal M10 bolt through the bush in the mount plate and mounts through the holes which the 2 old rubber bushes used to bolt, these panel areas are certainly not meant to hold the full end weight of an engine surely and i wouldn't want my engine hanging on one M10 bolt!!

 

Ill stick to my plan i think, thanks for the link though Rich.

[welshpug 1,622]

why not? an M10 bolt is pretty bloody strong.

 

guess what size your wishbone Balljoint pinch bolt is! or your track rod end nuts!

[Cameron 16]

Yeah but think about the load going through those parts, balljoint pinch bolt is a pretty low tensile load and track rod ends have a pretty heavy taper, the part that is sheared is probably 13mm diameter or more. Besides, cornering forces through the track rods are pretty low. I think I'd also be concerned about the whole weight of the engine hanging off one 10mm bolt!

Edited March 3, 2011 by Cameron

[welshpug 1,622]

why? they're only hanging off a 12mm bolt as standard

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

The bolt will be acting in double shear remember not just single.

 

I feel M10 is perfectly fine, M12 if you want to add some more safety factor in.

[Cameron 16]

Have you got any pics of what we're talking about fitted to a car?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

This is the part in question, not fitted to the car though, its not just the bolt id be worried about, the metal thickness in the walls where the old rubber bushes bolt to surely wouldnt withstand the new weight the M10/12 bolt is sitting on it, would definitely need to re-inforce that area.

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Here's some updated pics of the front end in my photobucket account:

 

CLICKY

 

Headlight Blanks fitted

Clear Indicators fitted

Sierra Cosworth Ally Rad fitted

Slam Panel fitted

Mesh in splitter fitted

 

Now on to fitting the 2 8" Cooling Fans and a panel to flush over the top of the rad from the bumper top to under the Air Filter. Also have a small 5" colling fan which will be fitted to the back of the subframe ofset to the LH side and pushing air down the exhaust tunnel, as i have the full undertray i want this fan to get some air circulating through the tunnel and cool the temps down a little from the exhaust.

 

Update on engine is.............ITS IN THE QUEUE TO BE DYNO'D WOOHOO just waiting for the call with the figures.

 

Going back to the engine mount situation, if you see in my photobucket account the ally gearbox mount, i forgot i had this and will replace the rubber mount and also i came accross the set of solid ally mounts for the rear beam from my old shell, as you can in the pic, i can use one of the solid mounts and drill the hole out to 17mm to slide over the bolt coming out of the gearbox then this will sit flat against the underside of the ally mount whichw ill be bolted as normal to the battery tray. Will also make up a stabiliser bar for under the box to the subframe.

 

Let me know what you think

 

Simon

[Batfink 201]

compbrake have been selling those kits for years and years. Not sure I totally understand how the gearbox part mounts though

[Cameron 16]

That looks awesome.

 

Who made your radiator out of interest?

 

You should think about adding a little ducting around the front of your radiator, particularly at the top where you have a gap between the bumper and the top of the rad.

 

 

You could get an ally panel in there attached to the top of the radiator and extending forwards to meet the top of the bumper, with some little 90deg folded tabs at the sides that you can then rivet to your headlight blanks and really stiffen everything up. You'll get a good improvement in cooling efficiency and a reduction in drag as you won't get air deflected off the front of the radiator core. Another good improvement you can make is to block off as much of the grille area as possible, leaving open only what you need to duct air to the throttle bodies. Minimising openings and ducting whatever you can at the front of the car is pretty key to good aero performance.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thanks Cameron, yeh as i said in my post before my next job is to make a panel as you stated to attach to the top of the bumper and extend over the top of the rad and also extend a little further so its sits under the TB's air filter, this will ensure all hot air being blown around by the fans through the rad will be diverted away from the air filters completely, i only want pure clean cold air to be hitting that air filter.

 

Until i get the engine in i cant confirm exactly where the air filter will sit height wise and how central in the grill it will sit so yeh ill blank off any of the grill not needed. You may remember how the old black 205 looked, see below, my oil catch tank bolts to the LH side of the slam panel but i can always put a blanking plate infront of this to deflect air up and over the bonnet, just leaving the opening for the TB's filter as you said.

 

I have the large mesh grill at the front for air to the main top part of the rad and the little grills at the bottom to give a little extra air to teh bottom of the rad and also get some air circulating under the engine to keep temps down again due to my undertrays.

 

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

compbrake have been selling those kits for years and years. Not sure I totally understand how the gearbox part mounts though

 

 

I can only assume that you need to remove the old bolt coming from the gearbox and this new one screws into it but how the hell you would do that i dont know seeing as this mount fits from inside the battery tray and bolts to the 2 fixed bolts sticking up inside the tray, so you would need to lift the box up in place, put the new mount down through the battery tray and screw into the box without hitting the 2 mounting bolts and trying to tighten into the gearbox but it just doesnt seem long enough, looks like the gearbox would be mounted very high.

 

Simon

[Cameron 16]

I've got a feeling the threaded part isn't attached to the mounting block, so it drops down through the mount and is screwed into the gearbox, then you tighten the top nut down on top of it. They've just taken a photo of it with the rod inside the mount which makes it look one piece.

 

Aha yeah I see you'd already thought of the ducting.

 

Could you perhaps run a mesh grille, then you can block off the bits that aren't needed to feed the ITB's behind it?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I've got a feeling the threaded part isn't attached to the mounting block, so it drops down through the mount and is screwed into the gearbox, then you tighten the top nut down on top of it. They've just taken a photo of it with the rod inside the mount which makes it look one piece.

 

Aha yeah I see you'd already thought of the ducting.

 

Could you perhaps run a mesh grille, then you can block off the bits that aren't needed to feed the ITB's behind it?

 

Ahh that would make much more sense

 

 

I could do but i prefer it open i think, plus i hate working with mesh especially the stuff i used in the bumper, cut it to shape and then its like its edged with razor blades and cuts you to shreds and anything it touches (like my bodywork) it leaves a nice deep scratch!!

 

Going to phone Mass for an update on the dyno in a minute!!

 

 

Oh and sorry here's the link to the rad i got, i reckon its bl00dy good for the price:

 

Toyosports Ltd

Edited March 4, 2011 by wardy18

[Cameron 16]

Wow that's a good price!!

 

Definitely putting that on my list for this year.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Wow that's a good price!!

 

Definitely putting that on my list for this year.

 

 

Yeh i could beleive it, great build quality too, only thing is that you have run it upside down to get the entry and exit pipes top and bottom correct for the 205 set up (ie entry RH bottom, exit LH top) Ford must be the other way round, am assuming this wont cause any flow issues inside the rad.

 

Took me ages of searching to find one with the same dimensions as the 205 one, not alot of cars run such a wide radiator with such a short height.

 

That'll be my claim to fame in the 205 bargain world then, an Alloy Race Radiator at a fraction of the price

Edited March 4, 2011 by wardy18

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Mass has updated that the dyno session will begin today and will take up to 3 days:

 

Day 1: Bolt onto dyno, wire in, plumb in, fill fluids and test systems

 

Day 2: First start, run for an hour on constant load level rpm to run in then run up and max out to map ecu

 

Day 3: Cold start to finish map then tie off too ends and contact me with results

 

So hopefully will have some figures wednesday.

 

John is hoping for between 210 and 240 bhp but hard to tell being such a long stroke bespoke 8v but he is expecting ALOT of torque (his words were "enough to pull houses down") to the figure of 190 - 200 ft lb.

 

Watch this space.

 

Simon

[Bas 6 1 Cars]

Took me ages of searching to find one with the same dimensions as the 205 one, not alot of cars run such a wide radiator with such a short height.

 

That'll be my claim to fame in the 205 bargain world then, an Alloy Race Radiator at a fraction of the price

 

 

More expensive but direct fit in 8v 205.

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item1e61fb98ee

 

Had to make a frame to fit in 205 with RFS engine.

 

[cybernck 400 1 Cars]

However, if you're running throttle bodies, something like this might be a better idea:

 

http://www.bakerbm.com/205.php?data=alurad205

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

That's alot of extra beans though at 300£, that would sit as low as mine does now however being shorter it wouldn't drop down almost to the level with the bottom of my front valance like my cosworth rad does so better to rallying for rallying but mine suits fine for me as I have my undertray protecting it a little and I don't intend on going offroad (again)

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Has anyone ever come up with an alternative to the plastic panel which fits over the windscreen wiper motor and interior fan motor and covers over the channel below the wndscreen, i hate its very existance and think its such a cop out piece of crap on the 205. Never gets properly clean unless you sit there with a tooth brush inbetween the little fins which i certainly aint gonna do. Would love to see it smashed up in the bin and a nice alternative fitted without all the holes and fins etc.

 

Anyone........

 

Simon

[Cameron 16]

Can you just get a flat piece of carbon sheet in there? That would look good.

 

It's pretty pointless on a track / race car really.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Can you just get a flat piece of carbon sheet in there? That would look good.

 

It's pretty pointless on a track / race car really.

 

 

Could probably be done but because it curves width ways and length ways i dont think it will sit right on there, needs to tuck under the window rubber, attach to the sides plus attach to the lip of the bulk head.

 

Carbon sheet would look damn nice in there though i agree!!