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wardy18

[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

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welshpug

see DJMini's engine build :lol::ph34r:

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Anthony

That's none too shabby from a humble 8v - 98hp/litre and 88lbft/litre with a nice wide powerband B)

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wardy18

I need a little help with some wiring, i pretty have the rest of the cars wiring all set to make now but i have no idea what fuse ratings to use in my fuse board.

 

To start with i only have one BIG reel of wire which should be rated enough for all that i need it for as stated below but im stuck on the fuses, what should i use for:

 

> Indicators through a flasher relay

 

> Brake lights

 

> Single wiper motor

 

> Small 12v Exhaust Tunnel Cooling Fans

 

> Stater motor solenoid

 

Also with regards to fuses to get the power to the fuse board i will run the following set up:

 

BATTERY - FIA Batt Cut Off Switch - Ignition Switch - 6 Pole Buzz Bar - Fuse Rail

 

Last seasons car had horrible electrics especially at the Ignition Switch, the terminal had god knows how many connections to it running to different fuses for applcations, ie wipers,indicators etc etc so i am now using a 6 Pole Buzz Bar instead.

 

I feel to get enough power to the Buzz Bar i am going to use some small Subwoofer Amplifier Power Cable, its a 4mm cable which ill run from the Cut Off Switch to the Ignition Switch then on to the Buzz Bar, with this cable i also have a 40amp fuse holder which i was wondering if i should use or not?!?!?

 

Also what power rated cable shoudl i use to go from the Cut Off Switch to the Starter Motor for its main power feed?? And shoudl this also be fused aswel as the solenoid power supply?

 

Thanks in advance

 

Simon

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wardy18

Whats the best value Dry Sump Kit available out there??

 

Spoox supply the Pace kit for the MI16 block but i have contacted them to see if this would also be suitable for my XUD9Y Iron block?

 

Any ideas??

 

Simon

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Cameron

Pace are supposed to be the dog's danglies aren't they?

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allye

Here's the dyno sheets for you to browse over, let me know what you think

 

Dyno Figures.pdf

 

Dyno Graph.pdf

 

What an engine :wub: impressive. Can't wait to see this finished and some videos.

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tri_longer

I've never been able to find anyone else other than Pace that do a kit for the Mi.

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wardy18

Yeh i did a quick search and only came up with Pace but whether that will fit to the bottom of my XUD9Y block i dont know.

 

Does anyone know if a GTi6 Sump pan has the same bolt pattern as a Mi16 (XU9J4 i think???)

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Anthony

Does anyone know if a GTi6 Sump pan has the same bolt pattern as a Mi16 (XU9J4 i think???)

Yes it does. AFAIK all XU engines have the same sump bolt pattern.

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wardy18

Great thanks Anthony, so my main issue then would be crank clearence to the dry sump baffles due to the 96mm crank.

 

I need to look into how the Dry Sumps work as i have never looked into them but if anyone fancies giving me an insight that would be great, my main query being, how does the engine pick up the oil in the sump if there isnt alot in the dry sump to pick up, how is the oil pumped around the engine??

Edited by wardy18

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Cameron

Basically your oil pump consists of 2 or 3 separate pumps - one (or two) to scavenge the oil from the sump pan, and pump it back to the oil tank; and one to pump oil from the tank around the engine.

 

All of your oil is contained in a separate tank, so you never risk running dry, and with 2 scavenges on the sump pan you always manage to pick oil back up again no matter what kind of corner. Generally you have some sort of swirl pot to remove air from the oil before it goes back to the oil tank too.

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wardy18

Ok thats understandable but i dont get how the oil enters the oil ways in the engine, the oil pump is bolted over the oil way holes in the block so when it picks oil up from the sump it then forces it up through the oil ways but with a dry sump the old oil pump is removed so how does the oil get from the sump into those oil way holes that the old oil pump used to bolt to?? Is the dry sump pump not just bolted to underneath the dry sump pan to scavenge the oil from inside the pan so then how does it get the oil to the oil ways??

 

Sorry a little confused

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Cameron

This should help! :)

 

Pace Mi16 Dry Sump Installation

 

Edit: Having read that through I wouldn't recommend his pipe routing, it looks way too complex!

Edited by Cameron

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Batfink

I'm planning on running my dry sump oil tank above the gearbox. No point in pumping it to the back of the car and then to the engine again..

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wardy18

Ah ok that makes sense, it gets into the oil ways via where the old oil filter used to screw onto the block, yeh that is ALOT of pipework however i wouldnt bother with a cooler rad as im not circuit racing so that would cut the pipework down. Would also like to keep the oil tank in the engine bay to save oil pipework right the way to the boot area.

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wardy18

I'm planning on running my dry sump oil tank above the gearbox. No point in pumping it to the back of the car and then to the engine again..

 

This would also be my plan, plenty of room and no oil vapours roaming around the interior from having it in the boot

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Cameron

Yeah, plus think how expensive all that oil hose would be! :o

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wardy18

Expensive has no meaning to me at moment with what ive been paying out of late :blink:<_<:wacko:

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Batfink

Yeah, plus think how expensive all that oil hose would be! :o

 

I know the previous owner of my dry sump spent about £600 on braided hose. I think i'll have a lot spare lol

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wardy18

Well Spoox show the Pace Dry Sump Kit at £1171, but whether that KIT includes pipes and the oil tank, i hope so but doubt it!!

 

Fist dibs on the left over hoses ;)

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tri_longer

Whoever you buy it from the kits never include the pipework or oil tank, those are all extras i'm afraid.

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wardy18

Has anyone ever heard or used a Oil Pre Heater Pad to pre heat the oil in the sump before starting??

 

Pre Heater Pad

 

Definitely going to be investing in one of these, this company quoted me £39 for a 4 x 15cm self adhesive pad to permanantly attach to the underside of the sump and has a mains plug socket supply lead.

 

Will save all the damage that happens when first starting from cold and lengthen the life of the insides!!

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EdCherry

Can cause issues in itself as you can localise boiling of the oil, not exactly a great way of heating your oil. If your going to bother at all, get a pump and heater system combined.

 

A quicker and easier way off doing it that I use on certain cars is circulating and heating the water system, leave it on timer the night before to come on 2 hours before you get to the circuit. Simpler and kenwood do a reasonably cheap kit.

 

Or just go back to the old tried and tested method of running the engine 3 or 4 times to get the oil temperature you need.

Edited by EdCherry

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wardy18

The heater pad was recommended by Mass and has been used by them on many other applications so im well assured that there would be no problems with using one, exactly how much heat it kicks i dont know but you buy them relevant to the amount of oil your sump holds so the heat will be relative to the mass to be heated.

 

Will look further into it!!

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