[engine_work] Project Sarty

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Did you TIG up the distribution block as well?

 

Good reminder Pete, but at the moment it seems I'm using all of its outlets (!). Anyway, the old BX DB had a rubber closed-end hose and clip for doing this, so I can always use that.

 

I'll check this out, and may have to visit the Jedi again.

Edited February 17, 2008 by DrSarty

[petert 551]

But if you block the bypass on one end, don't you have to block the other end? Remember you can't use a 1.9L dist. block. It must be a 2L block.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

But if you block the bypass on one end, don't you have to block the other end? Remember you can't use a 1.9L dist. block. It must be a 2L block.

Ref ^^ this. Yes Pete I have the S16 metal (3 medium & 1 large), metal distribution block. Didn't need to bung anything up as:

med1 = from bottom of expansion tank

med2 = bottom heater matrix connection

med3 = oil cooler (1 of 2)

lge = via captive side hose to bottom of rad

 

New stuff:

TranX plate diff ordered from Senor Miles (the main man who sowed the idea for this damn engine in my head at Castle Combe ). He will fit this diff with new driveshaft seals, crownwheel bolts, clutch lever plastic bearings and thrust bearing after he has refurbed my ex James_R 1.9CTi gearbox. This should be available to attach to the engine such that at last I can drop this mutha in , in about 10-14days' time.

 

Oil breathing, vapour (catch tank) circulation, oil filling and GTi6 inlet plenum connectivity pretty much the last thing to sort out before the Megasquirt goes in.

 

So: the GTi6 inlet plenum & connections. CAN I HAVE SOME CLARIFICATION PLEASE on the name/purpose/connectivity of the ringed items please? I've kept the colours the same for every picture each connection appears in and I've stated what I believe/guess each one is.

 

Confirmation and answers would help me and anyone else planning to use a '6 inlet in the future.

 

The orange (thin tube) I have no idea, but I'm sure light blue (med tube) goes to cam cover via round 'regulator' thing

 

Is this purple jobbie the MAP sensor?

 

Here's Mr Purple again (MAP sensor?), with (in yellow) what I think is the ICV - Idle Control Valve - which I believe connects to a stub off the inlet hose. And what connects to the 4pin electrical connector on the ICV?

 

And Mr Purple (MAP?) crops up again with his good old buddy Mr Blue, who like Mr Orange is a mystery

 

And Messrs Red and Green, who I think are TPS - Throttle Position Switch - and electric throttle body heater respectively???

 

Help me get this out of the way please Pug Lovers.

Edited February 18, 2008 by DrSarty

[welshpug 1,622]

orange = Evap purge pipe, blue = breather connection.

 

[/i]

 

Vacuum connection

 

idle control valve, feeds off main intake pipe that secures to the T/B (as the yellow arrow goes in the lower picture), mr purple, as above.

 

Mr Blue = MAP sensor, purple as above

 

Mr red = Throttle potentiometer, Mr green = Intake temperature sensor

 

the throttle body heater seems to be missing from the pictures, the connector usually had a tail before the plug and is just under where the EVAP pipe+breathers are.

Edited February 18, 2008 by welshpug

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Great work WP. Need to digest this and get back to you as 'evap purge pipe' doesn't mean a great deal to a dolt like me!

 

..................

[welshpug 1,622]

no worries, you don't need it anyway, just block off the pipe on the throttle body.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

no worries, you don't need it anyway, just block off the pipe on the throttle body.

 

You must forgive. That's the issue with me. I trust your advice, but I need to know 'why' it was there, where did it connect to and what for.

 

I have my GTi6 inlet in the house, and I've been err.....getting to know it ....and the light blue item ^^ above which is the breather between cam cover and TB, connects to the black plastic thing on the front of the TB, which is also the origin of the orange 'evap purge pipe' thingy. I can blow through light blue into the TB, to a hole which is split into two, one hole either side of the TB butterfly.

 

What I'm curious about is what the orange connection went to and does. It has to be something to do with controlling cam cover/crank case vapours being fed back into the TB, which to me makes me think it's part of a PCV valve system. I could be wrong, and the PCV valve is item no.17 on here.

 

Please shed light upon me and my curiosity. Of course the alternative is to just trust you and bung orange up; but where's the learning in that?

[welshpug 1,622]

Right, took me a while to find the information about it! (the EVAP systeM, ORANGE CIRCLES)

 

To prevent the release of unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere an evaporative emissions control system is fitted to models equipped with a catalytic converter.

 

The fuel filler cap is sealed, and a charcoal canister, mounted inside the offside front wing, collects the vapors whilst the car is parked.

 

The canister stores them until they can be cleared from the canister (under the control of the fuel injection/ignition system ECU) via the purge solenoid valve.

 

When the valve is opened, the fuel vapours pass into the ionlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion.

 

the PCV valve is the middle one here -

 

Edited February 18, 2008 by welshpug

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Thanks yet again WP. You seem highly employable to me fella.

 

(P.S. 21pages and >8000 views )

 

Now I'm reading about oil vapour recirculation/emissions/crankcase & cam cover breathing etc etc so really know how to understand the associated plumbing in my engine, it's becoming a little clearer.

 

Here are two diagrams of potential, considered options for my oil breather system incorporating a catchtank:

 

There is apparanently no gain whatsoever (powerwise) in refeeding crankcase/cam cover (read: oil) fumes back into the inlet tract. Most of the reasoning is environmental: period. I learnt a lot from here following a recommendation from Dreamweaver. Good stuff; particularly the build up explaining standard to high performance cars and their needs in this regard. Includes a nice simple diagram of how to incorporate a catchtank and more. It's also possible to conclude that a PCV valve is not required when you are running a catch tank AND not refeeding oil vapour back to inlet.

 

In my two diagrams, first off the oil filler item in both is part no (XU10) 1178-31 'oil breather' (which I've hopefully secured from Alastair H) and in diagram 2, a T-piece in the cam cover breather feeds to 1180-93 'regulator' (middle item circled blue in WP's last post) and back into the TB at the plastic union which also holds the (orange) evap system union.

 

Now I think option 1 is not only simplest but is the way to go for two reasons. One is my first comment about there being no requirement to feed oil vapour back into the inlet tract (and it's not shown in Burton's diagram either). And secondly - after a moment of clarity - I bet the evap system (which in later '6 models has an electric solenoid) and is a union off the same junction as the lower, light blue circled breather attachment to the TB, is activated to release the fuel vapour that it's been storing by it detecting vacuum from the breather tube when the engine is running. I could be wrong but that seems logical.

 

So in short, is option 1 correct? As if I use option 1, then I can either bung up light blue and orange on the side of the TB, or remove it all together and bung up the hole(s).

 

I'm doing this homework now because I want to protect my considerable investment in this engine. I've read alot about the corrosive and generally unpleasant nature of these oil vapours and how incorrect pressures in the engine can cause anything from naff running such as poor idle to pinking and catastrophic detonation. We all know about emilsified oil in these Pug lumps so I'm doing my best to avoid anything detrimental to this project.

Edited February 18, 2008 by DrSarty

[welshpug 1,622]

the evap system is ECU controlled and is totally separate to the breathers, bar that it connects to the throttle body at the same point

 

all 6's have this solenoid, as do 2.0 Mi16's S16's and countless others

 

have a chat to miles as I'm sure he has assisted in the fitting of or fitted a gti6 manifold to an S16 so may have some pointers as to how to sort the breathers.

[jim205GTI 3]

(P.S. 21pages and >8000 views )

 

Ah its a very enjoyable and informative thread that's why!!!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Thanks Jim.

 

The reason I confused a vacuum take-off from the '6 manifold for the MAP sensor was I thought that the MAP sensor was a tube, which connected straight to the Megasquirt board.

 

As this is not the case and it is actually a 3 pin electrical connector, what does this connect to and how does it now connect (via what) to the Megasquirt box?

[welshpug 1,622]

the gti6 (magnetii marelli) uses an external map sensor as you can see, with all the Megasquirt installations I've read about they use an onboard MAP sensor (like the S16/Mi16 and most Motronic systems)

 

So whether you need this or not would depend on how the ECU is built.

Edited February 19, 2008 by welshpug

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

So does that mean just a tapped in vacuum take-off affair off the inlet plenum going to my MS board (which has a 3mm int dia MAP sensor tube connection) is all I need?

[welshpug 1,622]

Yep

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Small update.

 

I'm planning to unscrew the MAP sensor electrical connector from the GTi6 inlet and see if the hole(s) I uncover will be usable for a vacuum take off for the Megasquirt's onboard MAP sensor. I need to find a suitable vacuum take-off pipe in any case; any suggestions? I was thinking of somehow getting one from an Mi16 XU9J4 inlet manifold - anybody got one spare?

 

I sliced through my thumb last night in final trimmings for the cam cover (tw@! ). I'll live, but it's dawned on me now why it was necessary surgery - on the plastic that is. Of course, the iron block is 10.5mm taller, so the poor old Mi16 XU9 cam cover was fouling here and there, and also one of the hex spacer rods to space the cover away from the block no longer lines up with its counterpart hole in the cam cover.

 

But it fits now just fine. I will be making a new cover for the pulley hole later tonight.

 

 

And thanks to Batfink bringing a box of bits, there was an engine bay electrical box which now cleaned up, will do perfectly for distributing the power in the engine bay which is coming from the boot mounted battery via a FO big cable.

Edited February 21, 2008 by DrSarty

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Tiny update.

 

Gearbox collected from James R and jetwashed for Miles to refurb & fit the plate diff.

 

Cleaning gearboxes is a f&*king crap job!!!!!! There is no way you can pressure wash a gearbox, unless you are dressed like Neil Armstrong when he didn't go to the moon ( ....... ) and not get soaked to the skin and completely polka dotted in dirt.

 

My breakers yard trips yesterday were fruitful to say the least. I have 2 auto bonnets (now for sale ahem...) a myriad of oil pressure, oil low pressure switch, and temp senders for ECU and gauge now, washer bottles and pumps and all (yes all) of the loom connectors I need to make my 2.2 tick.

 

I also have the ingredients for my oil breather catch tank, which I shall not only post up pictures of shortly, but offer to make for others, posted for under £25. Awesome eh?

 

Edited February 22, 2008 by DrSarty

[welshpug 1,622]

hehe, I know what yea mean with the cleaning

 

it is possible not to get drenched, but not with a DIY jetwash and it can still go very wrong with a hot pressure washer like the one I could use in my last job

 

best bet is to wear as little as possible....

[tom_m 0]

i'm gonna try steam on my TD box, its filthy!

[welshpug 1,622]

don't forget to tape up the breather hole on the top!

 

I painted my box silverrr

Edited February 22, 2008 by welshpug

[tom_m 0]

pah, paints heavy!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

pah, paints heavy!

 

Light coloured paint isn't.

 

[welshpug 1,622]

paint is lighter than the crud that doesn't stick to a shiny box

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

paint is lighter than the crud that doesn't stick to a shiny box

 

Yep. I was covered in gearbox crud after 2 soaks in B&Q BBQ cleaner (cheaper than Gunk) and jet washing sessions, and could barely walk.