[engine_work] Project Sarty

[petert 554]

That Innovate lamda sensor is IDENTICAL to my Haltech sensor. I wonder who really made it? Sticker technology! Did you buy the digital gauge as well?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Did you buy the digital gauge as well?

 

No I didn't. I suspect I'll be trying to focus on the world as it turns into a blur rather than any gauges.

 

Incidentally some hose mis-matching has shown up due to the rear block water distribution block having very large union outlets, considerably larger than the heater matrix and oil cooler connections. A couple of 25-19mm hose reducers have had to be used.

 

And I'm extremely inspired by the clean install and tidy engine bay of Dan's (TaylorsPug) lovely GTi6 install.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Digging your modded cam cover Rich It's ghetto fabulous

 

Photography needs work though. Are you suffering from 'Judy Finnigan hands'?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Are you suffering from 'Judy Finnigan hands'?

 

Hey, Judy's hands, AND ONLY HER HANDS, come in useful sometimes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For times when you desire stipple effect painting I mean, of course.......

[base-1 17]

It's probably a Bosch sensor? My PLX kit uses Bosch and looks just the same (although how different do lambdas look lol)

 

You have got driveshaft ends in those hubs haven't you!

[base-1 17]

Just read that Burton article, it's pretty good but don't have a drain to the sump, it'll fill up with water!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Just read that Burton article, it's pretty good but don't have a drain to the sump, it'll fill up with water!

 

The bottom drain tube is plugged up. My reasoning behind a clear(ish) catch tank is that it can be popped out easily, the top unscrewed and the bottle emptied and washed out. Cost..... £8.50. The only 'drain' to the sump is (will be) via the oil filler.

 

Hmmm, I've heard this thing about driveshafts in hubs before. What's that about because there isn't? Remember there's no engine in there. What've I done now?

 

The lambda sensor IS a Bosch BTW; it just comes in the Innovate box. The next model up has a digital gauge included and one down has no sensor.

[Anthony 1,000]

Hmmm, I've heard this thing about driveshafts in hubs before. What's that about because there isn't? Remember there's no engine in there. What've I done now?

With no driveshaft ends and hubnuts, you risk the bearings falling apart if you wheel the car around too much - basically, without the driveshaft/hubnut there's nothing stopping the bearing/hub (with the wheel attached) coming away from the hub carrier (with the car attached), and as I'm sure you can appreciate, that would put a bit of a downer on your day if it were to happen...

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Sheizer - fair one. Better pop those bad boys in then or get it up an axle stands sharpish. Thanks crew.

[Batfink 201]

to be honest as you are not moving it around just stick the driveshafts through and hand tighten, then use some wire or thick string to support the main shafts...

[kyepan 291]

Sticky back plastic also works a treat there.

 

i have nothing sensible to add.

[jackherer 543]

My loom from DIYAutotune arrived today, it looks really nice but I think there might be a problem. If I am understanding this correctly the loom just has one IGN wire for use with a distributor which means we will both have to add another wire for four cyl wasted spark. For mine (MS1 Extra) its pin 6, it might be different for you as you're using MS2 right? Anyway, I had been assuming I would be able to solder an extra wire or two if I had to but it looks like the unused pins are missing from the plug so I don't know what I'm going to do. I've emailed DIYAutotune so I'll wait to hear what they say then post it here.

[Super Josh 4]

From reading between the lines on this post as I haven't looked in to the MS ECU, it appears it's a standard 37 way D-type connector? If so, you can buy them without pins and then insert them into the required locations. You can get both crimp and solder bucket pins. RS should be able to supply them or you may need to look at the make on the connector and get the specific ones.

 

 

HTH,

 

Josh

[base-1 17]

to be honest as you are not moving it around just stick the driveshafts through and hand tighten, then use some wire or thick string to support the main shafts...

 

True, but the bearings are still loaded up even, although slightly less with no engine/gearbox for the effort of torquing them up a bit it's hardly worth the risk is it?

[jackherer 543]

From reading between the lines on this post as I haven't looked in to the MS ECU, it appears it's a standard 37 way D-type connector? If so, you can buy them without pins and then insert them into the required locations. You can get both crimp and solder bucket pins. RS should be able to supply them or you may need to look at the make on the connector and get the specific ones.

 

Yes its a 37 way D type, and the one on the loom I just received is an AMP so it should be easy to get pins for, I didn't realise they were available seperately TBH. I'm surprised they don't supply the megasquirt looms with all the spare pins really, most people must need at least one extra wire.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

We can do two things Mr Herer.

 

As Josh says, buy the extra pin (mine will be 'spare 4' I believe once I've (ahem..Anthony I hope) has added the second VB921 coil output IC into the MS box) and add it to the DB37 plug.

 

OR, take the wire direct from the 2nd ign output, ignoring the DB37 plug altogether and go to the coil(s) that way; i.e. just a fly-off lead.

 

I'll probably try and do it the neater way and fit the extra pin in the plug. But I haven't got mine yet so can't anticipate the grief involved.

Edited March 4, 2008 by DrSarty

[jackherer 543]

Reply from DIYAutotune:

 

Hello Kieran,

 

There are some empty pin there, as on most installs they aren't used.

 

We have add wires and crimp pins (you would just crimp these on to wire

that you would provide) for the harness. The add wires are 3 dollars

each, and the pins cost us so little, that we usually just send them out

to you guys.

 

Let me know what you would like to do.

 

Thanks,

 

Justin Shahan

DIYAutoTune.com

 

 

BTW - Please 'Reply w/ History' on any responses to help us keep things straight around here

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Cool, but funny grasp of English plurals; needs a few read.....I mean reads.

 

Well if you get some Kieran can you get a few extra please?

[jackherer 543]

I think I'll get a length of their $3 automotive grade wiring with a pin already crimped to match the rest of the loom as well as a few of the connectors. I'll bring some to the south meet if I make it there.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Thanks Kieran.

 

I've hit a low spot today. I suspect everyone does when they're staring (perhaps at an empty engine bay ) thinking how far away they are from driving their car after all this effort.

 

I'm gibbering cold in the garage masking up bits of the engine bay and loom I don't want painted when I tart up the paintwork thinking "why oh why am I doing this?".

 

It's kinda sad and pathetic really; although I know after all the remaining jobs are complete and then the interesting (fearful) bit of fire-up and Megasquirt tuning and mapping with the inherant gremlins thrown in for good measure is all sorted, the reward will be mega.

 

I read Shiny's thread today which inspired me to realise what can be achieved.

 

There: that's better.

[Batfink 201]

As soon as the gearbox turns up it should be all good

Engine is looking sweet and I can't wait to see this all working!

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

WTF! This had nearly 9000 views, and somehow is knocking on 10k!! (Shame it's not a patch on Shiny's project which is just awesome - I am such an amatuer)

 

Anyway (and to prove the above), in anticipation of dropping the engine and gearbox in after the south meet on the 16th, I'm prep'ing the engine bay, which is actually quite a slog.

 

So today I reshaped the bulkhead/exhaust tunnel to hopefully avoid any 4-2-1 manifold/downpipe clearance issues by getting medieval using a blowtorch, a wooden drift and a 'tool fine adjusting', aka a BFO hammer.

 

As it looked pre-paint

Phase I

 

Finished pre paint/protective layer I

 

& Closer Clarisse

 

The slight dimples on the right hand side were removed shortly after the last phot was taken. I filed it smooth, primed and Hammerited it immediately, and will tomorrow prime it, paint it and adhere some heat reflective/insulating (ironically self-adhesive) matting using waterproof No More Nails as a permanent adhesive and edge-barrier to water ingress. I would call that belt and braces, and will probably not even waste nice red paint on what will never be seen. I've even forced Hammerite up in between the folded over lip and the bulkhead!

 

I am expecting some grief/criticism off people for being ham-fisted about this. I figured with the heat and 2 hours' worth of careful shaping AND most importantly careful post violence chemical and heat shielding treatment, it should be suitable, strong and long lasting.

 

You may also notice that I cut off the top ali heat shield studs to make it neater and because the matt will be there instead. Extra potential clearance too. And that the gear linkage has an extender bar fitted as part of a short-shift kit I bought from Spooks a loooooooong time ago. Works quite well actually, just needs a lick o' paint.

 

Waiting.........

Edited March 5, 2008 by DrSarty

[Bonzai 2]

I didnt think clearance was an issue with the maniflow

[Anthony 1,000]

I didnt think clearance was an issue with the maniflow

It can be on the taller XU10J4 (S16) engines.

[jackherer 543]

It can be on the taller XU10J4 (S16) engines.

 

'Can' being the operative word. I have recently reshelled my friends S16 with a maniflow and it fitted fine in the old shell but hits the bulkhead in the new one.