[engine_work] Project Sarty

[pronta 1]

Did you actually get out and do some today rich or is the totally debilatating near death runny nose too much ?

 

come on fella you only have until thursday night if you expect to drive it up to mine !!

see if we get enough done then i can paint the bonnet sunday......... on the previso that i get enough done and the house blah blah blah is all clean and my compressors over from guy's in newmarket. I can get paint on a sunday.

 

Reckon you can do it ?

 

Oh and there was no responce about the R1 TB's

[pronta 1]

Not that I'm applying any pressure or anything

 

Are you a mexican or a mexicant ?

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Keep it up; I know all the last fiddly bits and problems really sap your enthusiasm level (if you've been reading my works thread you'll know what I mean ) but it's looking lovely...

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Losing time coz of the weather and this sh1tty cold , but I did get the drive shaft/hub nuts on today and managed to give it a degrease in the front wheel arch area including the wishbones & 20 years of grime (as it looked a bit pants compared to the clean bits) and a quick wash over to remove a year's worth of garage dust & pap.

 

This means I could get it out of the garage - not under its own steam just yet, but maybe Sunday - for a look at the world and to see if the diff, gearbox and driveshafts etc were sorted.

 

The ECU's nearly ready and I only need a few days to tie up the loose ends like fit the battery, airbox, connect the loom and sensors, fill it with oil and V-Power and see if Sandy's base map helps her run. Of course she stills needs the rad and a few hoses and the bonnet pin holes drilled to begin looking nearly ready, but we're getting there.

 

Here she is plus an oldie pic of Mini-Mi:

 

 

 

 

[pronta 1]

Richie did you know in that last picture there's a leprechaun trying to nick your badges.

 

More importantly .....Hide your guiness.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Update of last two days' work. Still doesn't really seem like I'm getting anywhere, but I remember that from the first conversion I did. Then all of a sudden it was 'Oh good/sh1t, I've got to turn the key!'

 

The boot is looking normal again, with its felt sound deadening and cover, all clean and softly nestled under the marine sourced battery in box on the right hand side of the boot. (Pic next time). This means the car has power!

 

I also relocated the nicely cleaned up twin tone horns to the offside, due to my need for space for the cold-air feed system on the near side.

Nearside:

 

The exhaust fitting was finished and the Lambda probe inserted (boss was already there thank feck) and the LC-1 wiring & module was routed and sited in the engine bay, ready for ECU and power connections etc.

 

Then I attacked the shell to remove the lowest front member where the rad used to sit, to allow the Nissens ali rad to be mounted low and forward.

 

Take that French tin!!

 

The bracket fitted between the bumper supports which acts as a brace (don't think that role's vital though) and a source of supporting the rad. See the huge amount of space/clearance created and incredibly low this places the rad. I had to change plans regarding tabs on the side of the rad because {a} it's plastic there on the rad and you can't really fit anything and {b} the bracketry is best suited to hold the top of the rad. It just protrudes now below the front valence, by about an inch. This leaves good room for filter change, excellent cold air flow (I've now also removed the number plate in favour of a vinyl bonnet jobbie) and.....ahem.....ITBs; the next phase.

 

 

Off to see Kate tomorrow to rummage through her pipes ( ), as I also have only 5 hoses left to connect, and the routing is getting tougher each day.

 

I'm really only left with fitting the rad proper, mounting the airbox tray and connecting the loom etc which is all there now.

 

Then it's...gulp.......VVVVVVVVVvvvvvrrooooooooom (he hopes) .

Edited April 9, 2008 by DrSarty

[smighall 1]

How've you mounted the bottom of that rad bud?

 

It's all coming together nicely now, shouldn't be long before that key gets turned

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I haven't mounted the rad yet, just done prep & a test fit. I really ought to apologise to everyone regarding any rad mounting issues discussed on this forum as until I did this today - rather than just picturing it in my noggin - I didn't realise how much sh1te I was talking. All in good faith of course, such as 'tabs on the side' which physically can't be mounted (on a Nissens at least)!

 

So my idea of not mounting/supporting the bottom of the rad was tripe; I will have to therefore fit two drop down brackets from the stubs left and right where I removed the shell and then add a lower bracket with two holes for the pins to sit in, with rubber absorbers (door stops ) fitted.

 

This really is a learning curve this.

 

One thing I didn't mention is that through the pipe work I've encountered a lot of mismatch connections. Anthony was surprised at this, only commenting that perhaps standard hoses took this into account? Anyway and for example, the heater matrix inlet and outlet are one size (small - about 15/16mm diameter), but the S16 water distribution block on the rear of the block needs a considerably larger hose, maybe 19mm plus, which a 15/16mm internal diameter hose will not fit onto. This has been a pain and yet another slow down factor and learning exercise.

 

As a result I drew up two hose/pipe diagrams showing the coolant system & oil filler/breather system I've chosen. It shows that you (well me anyway) need 8 hoses for the cooling system & 5 or 6 to cope with oil fill & vapour removal. One extra hose is required for the idle control valve if you don't have ITBs and don't forget the 3-4mm ID tube for the MAP sensor too if yours is mounted in your ECU. Up to 16 hoses/pipes in total!!

 

I'll post the diagrams another time, but as a result I am going to blow a fair packet on custom made red silicon hoses for EVERYTHING on my return from Afghanistan taking all of the differing inlet/outlet union outside diameters into account (as shown shortly on the 2 diagrams). This should spruce up the engine nicely, include all angles and bends to suit the confines of the engine bay and provide reassurance that a hose ain't gonna go poooof when it's being leathered or I'm miles away from home.

Edited April 9, 2008 by DrSarty

[base-1 17]

Anyway and for example, the heater matrix inlet and outlet are one size (small - about 15/16mm diameter), but the S16 water distribution block on the rear of the block needs a considerably larger hose, maybe 19mm plus, which a 15/16mm internal diameter hose will not fit onto.

Yes it will You just need the right motivation! Boiling water and being 50 miles from home should help

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

OK, I'll drive 50miles away from home with a 12volt kettle and try it in a layby:lol: .

 

And another one. The GTi6 inlet has two diameters of fuel hose! The return uses 5/16" / 8mm ID, but could I get it to fit the rail's inlet pipe (even with some butane rubber persuasion)? CIF! So a Halfords 9.5mm ID new hose fitted first time. I suppose I could include the fuel lines in my plan, as you need 3 of those; 2 x 8mm & (now I know) 1 x 9.5mm ID.

 

Of course lengths of all hoses/pipes depend entirely on where you place things such as fuel filter, catch and expansion tank & perhaps even the rad if it's lowered considerably.

 

I'll let you know how I get on in the layby.

 

 

EDIT: It's also a good idea - if you can - to have the rear block distribution hoses fitted to the engine when you drop it in. You can get to the matrix unions, stat housing and expansion tank easily, but that block is a toughy to get to. Aaah: hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Edited April 9, 2008 by DrSarty

[base-1 17]

OK, I'll drive 50miles away from home with a 12volt kettle and try it in a layby

 

 

[Alastairh 47]

Gettimg there mate.

 

As base said, you'll get them hoses on the dist block, i did on my brothers S16

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Including having 13days left before I deploy to Helmand Province again , I have an awful lot going on in my life at the moment; so I'm finding myself very pushed with this project.

 

However, I have wires to join, and 2 hoses to fit, that's all. The airbox is ready to slot in now and once the last hose is on I can fill the engine with oil. Then it's ECU returned from the marvellous Anthony with a Sandy309 base map on and off we go...I hope.

 

My wife's working a lot and I'm trying to spend mega hours with my little boy, who seriously wants to help the 'vroom Daddy car' as he calls it get going. I also helped a friend (Pronta) move house when I spent a few days back in Peterborough. Check out his triple workshop & paint booth at the bottom of his garden:

 

LUCKY GIT!

 

Today I got the bonnet pins fitted, such that the bonnet can get prep'd & sprayed and no more drilling needs to be done. I'm quite pleased with how well they fit.

 

Some advice for the less experienced on here re: bonnet pins. I would strongly advise following the main GTiDrivers' guide, with the addition of checking where the pins would line up in the bonnet itself once you've chosen a place on the side slam panels. I say this as I've ended up going through the ribs! But it works fine.

 

As a second advisory for anyone using an alloy XU10 baffled sump (off a GTi6 or anything with aircon I believe), you or your engine builder ought to remove the huge casting at the front edge BEFORE fitting it to the block. This useless chunk of metal on a 5 speed BE3 gearbox fit to a 205 only {a} adds weight & {b} starts eating away at all the clearance you've made by being clever with the engine mounts & rad lowering.

 

Check out my beautiful assistant:

 

This was not fun with the angle grinder inside the engine bay, hence the recommendation.

 

I am convinced I can get this running this week. Anyone free this week to help me?

Edited April 14, 2008 by DrSarty

[base-1 17]

Don't worry about going through the ribs - it's the strongest part of the bonnet so a good thing really!

 

I'd love to come help but can't stuck in Coventry again with generally gay and pointlesss coursework that I've left til the last minute Otherwise I'd like to check it out in the metal

[welshpug 1,629]

that's exactly where my mate Pugtop fitted the pins to Boombang's 205, straight through the ribs too.

 

one little detail different though, the catches were fitted pointing the other way you can open both at the same time making opening the bonnet much quicker, though it is a rally car.

[Tom Fenton 1,528]

Going through the ribs is a GOOD THING! in my opinion as said above it is where the strength is.

 

I make a point of doing bonnet pins on a 205 in the same way each time now, use an existing hole in the slam panel, this lines up the pins with the strengthening rib.

 

Then with careful use of a hole saw with a decent length pilot drill you can make a nice job of cutting out a piece for the pin to pass through the rib. See pics.

 

 

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Thanks Tom & crew; that's reassuring. Another example of me landing in sh1t and coming out smelling of roses.

 

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Before I forget, the 'fire gasket' or sealing olive you need for the Maniflow downpipe 2-1 join into the mid to rear section is either a PGG17X or PGG27AM. Mine said 'exhaust gasket' on the packet and fitted perfectly.

 

Joining all of the parts of the loom in the engine bay today such as feedback loom finished, from sensors to brown multi-plugs and MS loom into waiting multi-plug connected to TPS, IAT, coolant temp and CAS. Then we're really just ready to drop the rad in Thursday, plug in the ECU and hopefully turn that key. (Craps pants).

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Last few jobs getting done now. I will be collecting radiator off the Formula Jedi guy (Stu) who's Tig welded some fittings to the top to mount to my T-brackets, leaving me just to make a drop down bracket to support the bottom pins.

 

I attacked the nearside shell under the headlight today (leaving in seams and bolts) to make way for a 3-4inch cold air feed pipe which will soon be connected via the driving light cavity to the Volvo airbox, which now has its base fitted on the battery tray support. Now it's cut, I can de-rust, prime and paint and cut the hole in the valence for the feed. A t-piece will be included in the feed to give a secondary feed behind the headlight to avoid fording issues on rallies.

 

 

With the support/brace across the side slams, I've nearly got the front looking Peugeot again. It's amazing how much lights make a difference to the appearance. All fitted nicely, despite the Gulf racing colour combination with the bonnet. The bonnet needed to have the spring latch removed, but it looks like I can/will keep the security latch just for back-up if for any reason the bonnet pins fail. Belt & braces!

 

 

So rad in Saturday; wiring finished tomorrow. Just waiting for ECU back from its upgrade and Sandy309 base map upload.

Edited April 17, 2008 by DrSarty

[maturin23 10]

Looking good - she's got her face back

 

Nice to see you, MiniMi and the project last night!

[Doof 11]

Look good mate, can't wait to see videos of it in action. Bet its gonna be one of those heart in mouth moments firing it up for the first time

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Nice to see you, MiniMi and the project last night!

 

Yes Ian. Certainly was an enjoyable evening & I hope you can come to the Curry Rematch on the 25th in Maidenhead.

 

If you can't, we had a blinding ruby last night and a good ol' race on Xbox 360 Forza 2. Just as well I remembered to give you the wishbones you actually came for.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Moved on a bit more today.

 

JEDI MADE ALI BLOCKS FOR TOP RAD MOUNTS. The base is secured with very thick zip ties supporting the weight off the steel cross beam/bracket, and it is barely movable. The blocks are tapped (or is it died?) and despite the lowness of the rad, I'm pretty pleased that it's low now and prep'd for ITBs at some point.

 

RAD IN, BUT BLOODY LOW LOOKING! However it is higher than the sump so I'm not overly concerned. Can't decide whether it looks cool or daft. Anyway; it'll get bags of cool air where it is now. I'm expecting some quite just criticism or advice on this, but I would accept it and improve it at a later date when I'm not so pushed for time.

 

THE SIDE PIPE IS SECURED TO THE SUMP, and also acts as part of the lower support.

 

AND THE PACET FAN IS FITTED TOO

 

BUT I DID HAVE HELP

 

Routed the Map sensor vacuum feed tube through the bulkhead via the BE1 reverse cable grommet to the ECU location under the passenger seat and filled the cooling system. It did not leak & took seven litres plus and bled quite well just via the air bleed screws. Just connecting up wires now.

[Super Josh 4]

Nice one Richie So is Sunday 20th April the big day

 

Looks like Daddies helper is looking for the first drive

 

 

Josh

[Bonzai 2]

making good progress Nico looks well chuffed!