[engine_work] Mad's - Supercharged Pug Project

[richsmells 2]

Clive, not sure if you got my reply to your PM as it failed a couple of times. Drop me a line when you're about and I can give you a hand

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Yep, got your message, just didnt have a chance to reply. The problem I've got is that I'm not 100% on when I'm going to get to it, family matters taking over. Hopfully will get in a couple of hours this in afternoon, but theres no point in you coming over as I dont know when....

 

Big thanks for the offer.

 

 

 

Mad.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Got the family stuff sorted this morning, and got out into the garage this afternoon.... I had big plans, fix the oil leak and change the gearbox for a turbo derv box as I really need the longer gears to make the most the charger.

 

Got the gearbox out ithe 205 in just over an hour which isnt too bad. With everthing apart, the cause of the leak became apparent... One of the hockey seals was broken, so fully marks to welshpug and tidypug on that one.

 

Then onto the gearbox, and thats where it turned into a right mare. The gearbox arrived without a clutch pivot arm so set about removing one from one of the GTi boxes and thats where it all stopped! Could I get the arm off... Not a chance... Got halfway though drilling it off before called it a day and opened a beer or 3.

 

So cars sat there again... on stands... no wheels... and no gearbox!

 

Mad.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

The short version:

 

The oil leak has been solved! After taking the gearbox out again, but this time doing the hockey seals, we no longer have any leaks (ok, lie – small drip from the oil filter). The hockey seal had broken leaving a nice hole from which oil could escape. Also fitted a 306 Turbo Derv box.

 

 

In depth version.

 

While the gearbox was off to change the hockey seals, I decided that fitting a different gearbox would be a good idea, some thing with longer ratios. After a couple of hours or looking at which boxes to use… I ended up with a 306 D-Turbo box, circa 1996 90k miles (current 1.9 box has 150k+ miles) for the eye water sum of £30 (ebay) and it was only down the road. I phoned the guy and he said he’d deliver it for free, total result.

 

The derv box give me:

 

3rd

1000rpm 15mph

2000rpm 30mph

3000rpm 45mph

4000rpm 60mph

5000rpm 75mph (* calculated)

 

4th

1000rpm 19mph

2000rpm 37mph

3000rpm 59mph

4000rpm 77mph

5000rpm 95mph (* calculated)

 

5th

1000rpm 25mph

2000rpm 48mph

3000rpm 71mph

4000rpm 96mph (* calculated)

5000rpm 120mph (* calculated)

 

(taken from http://www.pug306.net/forum/showthread.php...tio&page=3)

 

When it arrived, I noticed it didn’t have the right gear selector or any clutch arm. I though not a problem, I’ll just swap it for with one of my other boxes. What a mare that turned out to me… Getting the clutch arm off the old box was a total mare, didn’t help a drill bit snapped off during drilling it out! Anyway to cut a very long story short, got the box together ready to go into the car, shortly before going on holiday.

 

In true top gear style, “mean while” I stripped the sump, spacer and crank bearing off and replaced the broken hockey seal, I’d guess due to poor installation! One of the hockey seals had broken leaving a nice hole from which oil could escape. With new seals (local pug dealer would only sell me a bag of them and not just two, so anyone wanting a hockey seal – give me a shout) fitted, this time following all advice from the forum, Haynes and anyone else who had an opinion on the matter I installed the new seals and sump gasket. And no leaks yet!

 

Anyway back to the gearbox…

 

On returning from holiday and opening the garage door, I was confronted with 4 be3 gearboxes on floor…. Quite depressing really. I had told the wife should have it back together in a couple of hours… How wrong could I be. Firstly, the release bearing didn’t fit - the derv clutch fork is bigger so spent the next hour or so changing that, then sacked it for the rest of the day to spend time with the family!

 

Next day, set to getting the box in, and it was fighting me all the way, 2 hours later, car was all together. Fill gearbox with oil… pours out one of drive shaft seals… So do what anyone else does at 5pm on a Sunday and needs a drive shaft seal… They steal it from another gearbox! I loosened diff casing and the seal dropped out ready to be tapped into the derv box. Fill gearbox, no leaks. Get into reverse car off drive, gear stick to so cranked over right its not funny! So think, just need to adjust the linkage, I’ll do that in the morning before work. Queue next morning, notice that its not the linkage, it the selector that’s not right, after some flapping.. Realised that the selector must have move during being changed… que an Emergency day off of work! After more flapping, that the box would need to come out to change it, I made a tool! Such a cunny tool it enabled the selector to be removed whilst gearbox was attached! Ok, it was a few bits of threaded bar welded together, about a 1m long! With the selector now working, gear stick as expected… Went for a drive and AG (All Good).

 

The derv box, is great. 3rd gear is awesome… and 5th is brill for ambling. 1st is rubbish, and reverse is a little too high, but other than that, Very AG. Just makes the car feel more modern.. stange but true.

 

 

Then this morning the start motor stopped working still I smacked it with a hammer! It’s a new starter motor, all the wiring is new I don’t understand it.

 

My Car hates me…. And I have a love it and hate it at the same time!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

More pictures than words in this update!

 

Car is running fine, bar the odd starter motor issue - nothing a tap with a hammer doesnt sort!

 

Fitted a 306 centre rear brake light... Fitted straight in, no messing! I think the pictures speak for themselfs!

 

 

 

 

 

Thought the number plate looked too boy racer ish... so from this

 

 

to

 

 

 

Also rattle some more.... .. The car looks much better with the quick rattle...

 

 

Now for some random engine bay shots

 

 

 

 

MAd.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

My car hates me. I think it has always hated me.

 

Decided to move it from the road to the drive... got half way in turning it around and it stalled... and then the starter motor wouldn't work, leaving me and the car stuck in the middle of the road. Pushed the car to the side, tried it again, and it started fine! Bloody french ***t.

 

 

 

Mad.

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

Retro French at its best.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

The project has finally moved on, and heres a pictorial update.

 

The inside of the block was cleaned out, mainly using brake cleaner!

 

 

The head finally built up and ready to be installed.

 

 

The head attached to freshly built up block.

 

 

The newly built up engine with attached supercharger dropped into the engine bay.

 

 

Just reminds me how tight the install is... Pictures is the gap between the modified starter motor and charger...

yes its about 2mm!

 

 

The new oil cooler had to be attached to the charger cooler rad as there was no where else to put it. We didnt want to do, but we couldnt see what else to do.

 

 

The loom is coming along... using these sexy connectors, well as sexy as connectors get...

 

 

The connector is mounted to a allay plate for ready for mounting into the firewall. The allay plate was tapped accept the bolts.

 

 

The connector mounted to the firewall, not quite how I planned it, but it works.

 

 

How the car looks... Look very sorry for its self!

 

 

Mad.

 

sorry to hijack mad but where did you get these very 'sexy' connectors from?

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

They were in a box junk at work which I saved from the skip.... They are http://www.amphenol.co.uk/ connectors, mil spec jobbies. They are totally over the top, and were a right pain in the bottom to wire up, as they are just about assemble once, and once only.

 

Mad.

 

Now with added man flu!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

The car is going along well... Now ticked over the 650 mile mark! Still the only got the starter motor issue, that seemingly only happens when I cant investigate the problem any further!

 

The car has also now had a full coat of black satin paint!

 

Lowering, the madspikes way... Put a storage heater in the back!

 

 

I'm currently playing with my newly connected knock sensor... I've made some recording using cool edit of some knock events... Just need to tune the detector. I've got a knocksense module, but I cant get it to work right this time, worked last year, but not this, need to investigate further!

 

I'll post some more info when I get my head around it!

 

mad.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Got the Knocksense box working working yesterday! The reason why it wasnt working was simple, a strand of the screen was shorting the signal to ground. The supplied LED flashes when knock occurs, and it seems to work well.

Its not working with the MS yet, I'm guessing something simple is going on thats stopping it working! I wanted to use it, just to highlight in the data logs where knock is happing, so I can adjust the map accordingly. I'm not going to allow it to control knock its self, just as a indicator and marker.

 

I finally got to investigate the starter motor issue....

0.3 ohms resistance between 0v and solenoid = starter motor working

1.3 ohms resistance between 0v and solenoid = starter motor NOT working

 

After the starter motor turns over and is switched off, the resistance sometimes slowly climes from 0.3 to the 1.3ohms... Then gentle tapping on the side brings it back to 0.3ohms again. The resistance between the battery and the block and starter motor body is 0. Moving the wiring has no effect on the resistance at all.

 

Verdict its f**ked. So the starter motor needs to be changed, which is a total ball-ake!

 

I'm also having idle valve issues... I dont think i'm venting enough air at idle, and its pushing the idle valve open fully, which isnt ideal! So the plan is to install another re-circ valve to try and help the situation.

 

Currently just using one of these:

 

 

So going to try a pair of them!

 

 

Mad.

Edited October 15, 2009 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Things didnt go too well today, in the life of the 205 as a daily driver... Nearly at work it started running on 2 cylinders and then wouldn't run at all. To cut a long dull story short... The 205 took a trip with one of these....

 

 

Coil pack or one of the coil drivers have died, but nothing that could be fix road side... So recovery it was.

 

I cant take any more for the moment, so the 205 is being replaced with one of these... Zoom Zooom! For the moment anyways!

 

 

 

Mad

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Its about time for a quick up date!

 

Dull bit....

 

After the car was towed home by the AA, I lost the love for the 205 for a couple of weeks, and in the mean time the wife put me to work fixing the house up!

 

One evening I did find some motivation, and time to look into the problem with it running on two cylinders.... After some poking around with the scope, turns on one of the coil drivers had died, hense only two cylinders working. After a quick chat with the Madprof, he had two uprated drivers winging their way to me. I got these installed, connected up the coil pack and all ran fine. Sweet.

 

With the ECU fixed, I set about changing the knacked starter motor, which a bitch of a job, who designed this supercharger instal, ok will be mel! 4 hrs later, new starter motor installed, coil pack re-attached and new throttle pot installed. New pot needed to give a larger voltage range between closed and open throttle.

 

The car started 1st turn of the key! Happy Days!

 

Drive the car to work for 2.5days, no problems! With some new crank setting (big thanks MadProf), and the new throttle pot the car was running like a dream! Then queue a rainy Thursday evening, trying to leave work... Car won't start. No spark on the same two plugs as before! Bugger! I blag a lift home and check out the ECU, nope ECU fine. Ok, so the coil pack is dead. Get around to fitting a new pack on the Saturday after fighting one off a Saxo in the breakers, and the car was finally able to leave the work car park!!

 

The car run with out fault for the last two weeks and have now ticked over 1000 miles since the rebuild.

 

More interesting bit!

 

The car is working really well, the derv box makes the car feel more modern, and bigger, tis odd. I love the longer gearing.... and with charger I find myself using 1000rpm to 2000rpm the most! The only disappointing thing is the lack of boost, dont get me wrong the car is quick, but she's only making 0.35bar of boost, but thats right across the rev range!

 

Here is a trace of a little play I had with 0-75mph test on a nearby private road. I wasnt too committed in first gear... and the rev limit could have been higher...

 

 

by my calcs 60 came up in about 7.2 seconds.

 

All in all makes for a quick car, but I'm 0.2bar down on what I was hoping / calculated. The thing is, this charger is pretty shagged. When I changed the starter motor I had a good look at the rotors, and there are some scores, and chips in the coating which isnt going to help things. Funds allowing, next summer I'll fit a 'new' charger with a -15% pulley as per someone else on here, which should make me 0.55 bar of boost! Till then I'll work on getting a idle valve to work, and 3000rpm, 70mph ambiling!

 

Got more pictures, but cant get my phone to connect at the moment!

 

Oh, I also added a second re-circ. Cut down the noise at idle no end! However currently the seconds valve is just dumping to air... So the car sneezes every time I lift off! Sounds very chavy!

 

 

 

Mad.

Edited November 20, 2009 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Madspikes - Idle Valve Thread!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

I got a little cocky last weekend.... I put all the screws into the MS, and screwed the unit to the car, instead of it floating around the passenger footwell! However since doing this, every now and again the car stuttered.... I just couldnt figure it out, then yesterday, I noticed than if I tapped the box whilst idling the car stalled! After quite some time looking I found the problem...

 

See if you can spot the problem.... note this ECU has done well over 2000miles.... and the issue only occurred this week.. I did install the ECU on its side...

 

 

 

Some monkey forget to solder both sides of sel to vrout link! What a monkey! I'm guessing the mixure of cold weather and mounting the ecu on its side caused the link not to make contact!!

 

We're up to 1400miles with the supercharged pug!!

 

MAd.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Right boys and girls, I'm after some ideas.... With the 205 now being the daily driver and all this rain, i'm starting to think that I should move the air filter!

 

 

The air filter is to the right of the horn as you look at the picture...

 

 

And just sticks out under the valance....

 

The car was going to be a fun / track car and would be used much in the rain so having the filter so low down wasnt going to be an issue, but now with it being a daily driver, it concerns me.

 

So I'd like some ideas for a new location for the air filter, that isnt going to hoover the road!

 

The engine bay looking something like this currently...

 

 

 

I did think about moving the battery to the boot and putting the filter there, but dont really want to move the battery unless I need to.

 

 

MAd

Ideas please...

Edited December 10, 2009 by madspikes

[Anthony 1,000]

What about some kind of cover/shield to stop the filter being directly exposed to water? Should be fine I'd guess unless you try driving through a flood and submerge it!

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Mine is in a not dissimilar place, I have to say I'm not that worried about it, as above just don't go driving through floods.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Living in dorset the old pug does get a muddy bath every now and again, but I guess I'm not going though anything too deep. I do get the feeling sometimes by the time I get to work I have just completed a special rally stage!

 

I did have a shield that shielded the filter from the wheel arch dirt and water, I guess putting that back on would do. Or even boxing in the bottom of filter.

 

Thanks guys...

 

Mad.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Todays update is a rant!

 

All had been going well. Serviced the other day, and gave everything a good check, and everything came up fine, bar a small oil leak from the remote oil filter.

 

Today however, the cold weather has killed the battery... well ok its been in the car since I bought the car in 2003! So shouldn’t complain really, but its just frustrating! While I was getting cold, I took a look at the remote filter leak... and notice one od the CV boots has split! Oh, joy! I hate doing CV boots! I know its not much... but just when your starting to enjoy it, something else brakes!

 

And what make really angry is... I cant the radio to properly tune into anything other the local radio station! No radio1, no radio2... Dont understand it! Bloody thing! I suppose I could get with the times and plug the ipod in... but too lazy!

 

 

So the job list for before christmas, or very soon after due to imminent 2nd baby arrival…

 

New CV boot – Bang on a stretchy one

Fit new battery

Fit and setup new idle valve

Make shelf for 6x9s

Fix the remote oil filter leak..

Replace rocker cover gasket!

 

Mad.

Edited December 20, 2009 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Progress! Changed the CV boots in near freezing temperatures, both passenger side boots were shot! Didnt take long now I've mastered using the stretchy cone thing, but it was still very cold!

 

I didnt change the rocker gasket, just put a bit of sealer around it and it seems to have stopped the leak.

 

The remote oil filter is still leaking, but I now know which union is leaking which is a step forward. The issue is that the gearbox mount needs to come off to fit it, which I dont have time for at the moment. The leak isnt big, so not too concerned.

 

I also got around to cutting the valance so it no longer pushes on the charge cooler rad... I got carried away and cut away too much. I cut away all of the lower vent, and this makes the bottom bar very flexiable!

 

 

I got carried away and refitted the red front stripe... Looks much better than with out.

 

Without..

 

With...

 

 

I also spent a while trying to sort out the closed loop idle, was making good progress, but it was doing odd things! Then I remembered that I hadnt actually fitted the new valve! But even with the old valve things were much better than I has seen before. So fingers crossed, with the new valve things should be spot on. There is still this "area of non idle" between 1050rpm and 850 rpm, in this area idle is all over the place! Above and below this it is stable! Very odd.

 

 

Happy New year!

 

Mad

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

All is well in the land of the supercharged pug. Had a good go at setting the ignition map right this week, and the car runs much better for it. The car is running a knock sensor which is doing a very nice job of picking up any knock, and retarding the ignition. I've also got a couple EGTs in the manifold, which helps me protect the engine when playing with the advance.

 

Rally cross look.... The sign said "Mud on road", should have said contents of field on road!

 

I've also fitted some aerocatches as the bonnet was starting to flap....

 

Step one, measure and locate the position of the pin bolt. This turned out to be a right mare... I started off measuring from the tip of the wing but the bloody things didnt look symmetrical.. So ended up doing it a bit my measurement and and a bit by eye. Position is marked and centre punched.

 

 

 

With the pin bolt in place, I marked off on the bonnet when the pin bolt need to go through, in the left right plane.

 

 

Cut a segment out the bonnet strengthening, so the bolt pin would actually touch the actual understand of the main bonnet pannel.

 

Placed grease on the pin, so it would leave a mark on the bonnet when closed, so I knew where to drill.

 

Once drilled, the pin went through the bonnet and I used that as a pivot point to position the catch. To begin with I was going to go for straight up and down the car, but the catches on a angle looks better I think. (Stole that idea from someone on here.. sorry I dont remember who!) Having the catches angled also help the catch fit the contour of the bonnet better. A template was made up, lining up one edge of the template with the edge of the bonnet, and making sure the corner of the template lined up with the corner of the bonnet.

 

The template was then just flipped over, and used to mark the other side. Thus giving symmetrical catches.... Before cutting I did check that the pin lined up! I used a grinder with a cutting disc to cut out a rough hole. The used a carbide drill bit thing to finish the hole off to the correct size and shape. Then it was just a matter of pushing the catches through and drilling hole for the retaining bolts.

 

Finished, catches fitted.

 

 

Mad.

Edited February 7, 2010 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

This is the second attempt at this post and alot less wordy, as cant be arsed to retype all the detail that just disappeared bloody windows!

 

I'm fighting to get the car ready for this retro rides meet next month.

 

The short of it: Car off the road since March due to an oil leak, problem finally solved.. This was broken.... Circled shows missed bit!

 

 

Trying to fit everything into the engine bay is a total mare. Some pictures of trying to fit and plumb everything in!

 

 

 

 

 

New Idle valve

 

ReCirc plumbed in

 

Circuit to control the 3 wire idle valve - from Mr Madprofessor , I think he was getting fed up with bugging him, and he wants a drive when its working!

 

and into a nice box that my doing!

 

 

and a MS2 to boot...

 

 

Its a totally mare trying to plumb everything... ... and getting hoses that fit with everything being different sizes!

 

 

 

Mad.

Edited July 23, 2010 by madspikes

[M@tt 77]

pis aren't working for me the ones from 1st Jan onwards

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Should work now! Its all going wrong today!