[engine_work] Mad's - Supercharged Pug Project

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

Dont use rattle cans! Get an air gun and buy some automotive paint. It's in the end as expensive as dozen of rattle cans and quality of the paint is far better.

 

You can also use epoxy primer; can be used on bare metal and fills a bit more than etch primer and is rust protecting. Use proper breath protection as it is very very bad for your lungs....

 

I would use 2K paint iso 1K as well. On 2K you don't need to put a layer of clear coat. Spraying Clear coat properly is very hard!!

 

 

Btw I used Bianca white (306 color).... That's a bit brighter that the original color.

 

​

Edited July 21, 2013 by wicked

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Thanks for the reply. I have been thinking about using a compressor for the top coat due to the issues I've been having. In all years of rattle cans I have never had so many issues!

[mikeygulley 19 1 Cars]

I had issues with crazing on one area of my car! I got around it in the end by putting filler on the area and then spraying again! But a sprayer friend said I should have used a water based primer?

[NFS 32]

I can tell you why this is happend and its nothing to do with 2k verse 1k or spray can verse air gun, its prep mate, you need to sand that back to bare metel which i think you had done in the first place, go to a paint shop and by a 1k can of etch primer about 10£.

 

rub back all the primers you have put on, clean with degreaser/panel wipe, and spray 1 light coat of etch primer, followed by another thicker coat of etch primer, then once dry (30mins or so) apply a good high build primer it can be from a can or gun doesnt matter, get a good quaility one not the s*itE you get from halfords, that yellow stuff is Filler Primer its no good for automotive application,

 

so go to a proper paint place and buy:

 

can of etch primer

can of HIGH build primer

panel wipe.

 

i have been painting cars for years and you can check my build thread i done it all myself and becuase my prep was good i had NO issues like this, dont get me wrong i have in the past

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

After being away with work last week, treated myself to a couple days of leave! Managed to avoid the jobs from the wife for a couple hours to get into the garage and make some more progress.

 

I started by rubbing back the dodgy panel back, I didnt go back to bare metal - what looks like bare metal is the original steel grey, under a few layers of paint! You probably not far wrong with the getting better quality paint.

 

As always listening to what other people say, then doing something slightly different!

 

I rubbed the panel back, not to bare metal but back through to the original steel grey paint, removing most of the black, and yellow I had applied over years.

 

rear 1\4 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Then I used some zinc primer I had knocking around. The majority of the panel came out fine, bar this one area, but this cleared up after a couple more coats of paint.

 

rear 1\4 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Then after a coat of build primer, all is looking good.

rear 1\4 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Then started work on the other side, which had a small dent. Filled that, and primed.

rear 1\4 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Thats for all your comments, I do take everything on board!

 

 

 

Clive

 

 

Edited July 25, 2013 by madspikes

[NFS 32]

Hi, Im glad that it has turned out okay now, however bare in mind that it might start peeling in a years time or so, as it hasnt properly adhered to the paint, oh and zinc primer is for baremetal that you dont want to rust, not for application over already painted area.

 

will keep an eye on this thread, love the supercharger

[mikeygulley 19 1 Cars]

Where there's a will there's a way! Looks good.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

- This thread is very much the way I'm doing it, not how it should be!

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

ive always found that yellow filler primer from Halfords (if that's where its from ?) does this. it seems to react with other paint quite badly.

 

would be better off with some proper high build primer instead.

 

and deffo some panel wipe, I use 70/30 isopropanol from work as its free but degreases very well, but some proper panel wipe is a must.

Edited July 25, 2013 by pugpete1108

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Strangely enough the can that went s*ite was a halfords item, the rest was another brand.

 

I'm already using panel wipes, and I'm quite impressed with them.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Todays update is much happier! Mananged to get the build primer down and flatted off, before getting the white primer down. No cracking!

 

rear 1\4 primed by madspikes, on Flickr

 

One side all done in white primer.

drivers side primed by madspikes, on Flickr

 

The other side was stright forward to do, dispite there being cracking in the exitsing paint, a coat of build primer sorted it and a quick flatten back and I could get the white primer on. Downside, ran out of build primer! Really splashing the cash, £2.30 a 400ml tin! One tin did the white primer on both of these rear 1/4's, ok one isnt covered totally but not bad going.

 

primer rear 1\4 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Happy days!

 

Next up the passenger door and front wing.. Then the roof! Slightly all arse about face doing the lower panels first, but there we go!

 

Clive.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Now for something slightly different, trackday last year!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=5gEwJtnVdtA

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=wsr6J97_KEM

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=25Rjdkl5ais

 

Clive

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Rear Valance

 

Fixing... Some chav had taken a massive chunk out of it in the past.. Not me!

 

valance by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Build primer.

rear valance by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Primer.

rear valance by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Real valance - final coat! Needs a final wet sand and a buff...

rear valance gloss by madspikes, on Flickr

 

rear valance gloss by madspikes, on Flickr

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Update:

 

Roof in build primer - not sure why I did the while roof in build primer...

 

roof by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Final coat on the roof.

roof gloss by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

On side in progress...

wing by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

roof glosd by madspikes, on Flickr

 

roof by madspikes, on Flickr

 

Before buff...

roof by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

After a quick buff..

roof by madspikes, on Flickr

 

getting there! by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Bonnet painted, needs buffing.

bonnet painted by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Some paint dust around...

dusty by madspikes, on Flickr

 

 

Clive.

[Mad Professor 7]

You can come down to my island and repaint the derv for me, pmsl.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Car is now fully painted, I just need to wet sand and polish the whole car.

 

I had my first go at the colour sanding and polishing the bonnet (passenger side of center). Looks ok, but there are lots of little scratches, and I'm not sure if its the 1500grit wet and dry I used or the medium polishing sponge... I think its the 1500grit, going to have another go with 2000 grit.

 

polished bonnet 1 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

polish bonnet 2 by madspikes, on Flickr

 

But given all that, not bad for a rattle can job!

 

Mad.

[DamirGTI 323]

Wipe the surface prior to sanding , always use clean water for wet sanding (add a few drops of washing up liquid inside the bucket with water for sanding - helps water "sticking" on the surface longer , and also slows down sanding paper clogging) do the sanding in straight lines only (left-right or up-down .. chose which way you want and stick by it until done with the panel from top to the bottom) , if done in circles or mixed motions you'll end up with scratched surface .

 

Have fun !

 

D

Edited September 30, 2013 by DamirGTI

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Steady on Mad! It will look almost presentable soon!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Steady on Mad! It will look almost presentable soon!

Cheeky bugger! It should look ok, but the noise will still scare people.

 

Mad

Edited October 1, 2013 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Wipe the surface prior to sanding , always use clean water for wet sanding (add a few drops of washing up liquid inside the bucket with water for sanding - helps water "sticking" on the surface longer , and also slows down sanding paper clogging) do the sanding in straight lines only (left-right or up-down .. chose which way you want and stick by it until done with the panel from top to the bottom) , if done in circles or mixed motions you'll end up with scratched surface .

 

Have fun !

 

D

I have been following most of that advice, bar I have been sanding in circles! Doh!

 

Sanded the other side in vertical lines and with 2500 grit. Let's see how that goes.

 

Thanks for the advice.

 

Mad

[NFS 32]

Interesting. I have been thought to wet sand in circles and in the same direction as the mop spins. So for my mop that clockwise which is the total oppersite of the normal direction for my sanding so it takes some getting use to.

[welshpug 1,622]

Always straight lines indeed, not that i know much, been watching /driveclean on youtube

[NFS 32]

Humm ive always done circles and always worked brilliant, have you been using an aggressive cutting compound after 1500G? 2500g should be better.

 

looking closely at those marks they look like the sand paper is clogging and your scratching rather than sanding, are you using a block/foam pad? also a da sander would reduce these marks considerably and make mopping quicker and easier.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

So I need to make sure I use plenty of lubricate...

[allye 530 3 Cars]

So I need to make sure I use plenty of lubricate...

 

Wetter the better I heard......