Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Paul_13

[trackday_prep] Paul's Gti6

Recommended Posts

GLPoomobile

And this coming from Anthony "engine killer" Shuttle! :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
kyepan

i can vouch for paul on this, he's gone from a "throw it together and rag it" attitude to..

 

"do it properly, take your time" in a short period.

 

some of his mates may not have reached his enlightened stage, and are probably buying similar cars and giving them death without much mechanical sympathy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

:) :) :)

 

th_IMAG0395.jpg

th_IMAG0396.jpg

th_IMAG0397.jpg

 

Need to mess about with stub axles and they should just fit or fit base model 205 trailing arms. Drums work better any way :P

I havent had the tyres on there scrub yet with the 21mm TB's and Bilstein Tarmac shocks.

 

Only problems so far are:

 

Stalling when revs drop: Need to reset ECU

Starting problem: Replaced wire to solenoid, job sorted :)

Bung on expansion tank started to leak: Pulled it out and made a custom bung using a bit of hose and a cut off bit of a wheel brace :lol: Does the job.

Sorted out the indicator cancelling problem.

Changed the roll cage padding from yellow: F*cking police were attracted to it like hell. Been followed 3 times in the last 2 night.

Wierdly the OS wheel has negative camber... Need to investigate top mount

 

500 miles :)

Edited by Paul_13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Note to self, never use first line product again after giving them a second chance. There is CV grease every where on my nice clean engine/bay

Grrrrr :angry:

 

Also the rack gaitors gone abit ... odd, looks like its been getting warm or there's a vacuum in it

Edited by Paul_13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Gear linkage L bracket has come loose, I double checked this had the right wavey washers and tightened it right up. Think a bit of loctite is in order.

 

Still got the stalling problem when dipping clutch and recent drop, now I understand this is a common fault with lightened flywheels, but it was doing it on the last setup with oe fly.

So something else is amiss.

 

- crap gearbox to body earth

 

- icv (but this is a GWO order one)

 

- icv filter is blocked

 

- I've reset the ecu and it was fine for that drive.

 

- only does it when hot

 

- or if I keep dropping the revs it'll survive the first few then cut out on the third/fourth dip of clutch. That's from start up

 

- I've got a different ecu to try but I'm using one I've bought

 

- AA man was a knob head and started stripping back the insulation on the CAS loom when I was in the shop. Now the shielding wire is exposed but covered in insulation tape. I have a new plug but whats the best way of joining? I heard soldering can disrupt the signals through the wire.

 

- its French

 

They're my ideas.

 

Will be replacing earth cable tonight and tighten gear linkage for curry night tonight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

got the VSS working?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Yep brand new off Miles, so no problem with the unit. I'll make sure its plugged in properly.

The speedo cogs are mismatched would this cause a problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

potentially yes, they may not be meshing properly...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

I changed the earth, VSS cog and tightened the gear L bracket (now it's wayyyy too tight, hard to change gear!)

 

Found the wire clip had come off the VSS plug so I cabled tied it on. Fixed it for quite a bit but got a feeling it's come off again.

Speedo seems more in tune with actual speed.

Got another ICV to try and MAF sensor to iron out the jerkyness at partial throttle.

Another inlet gasket to try to see if it's an air leak.

 

Also need to reset the ECU as it may of relearnt the settings on the last reset without the VSS plugged in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chipstick

Paul, pinch another clip from a sensor plug you don't use, like air con.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

My mate has a whole loom spare off a 6, so might cut the plug off as the actual plug is damaged on mine. Why the clip fell out :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Ive just changed the oil to FuchsTitan XTR 10 40. Done 700 miles so far :)

 

Reset the ecu the other night, stalling problem is now solved and its pretty damn rapid!

 

Gotta change cv boots next but contemplating getting 309 front setup again. I'll just swap over the outer cvs off the 205 shafts and put them into the 309 shafts (minus outer cvs).

Then to buy some 309 bones and replace the bushes asap!

 

Any recommendations for 309 bones with tight ball joints?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SurGie

Are those graphics real ?

 

I'd have them smaller, so its not in your face so much. I'd have it in the far right of that area being small like a soft touch, but thats me :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Yes they're real :lol:

Miles has done a lot of engine work and have a load of components of him, so why not display it loud and proud.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

th_IMAG0463.jpg

 

Hmmmmmm....

 

1200 miles :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Honest to god I thought I just blew up the engine!

Luckily it was just a coil pack plug that had popped off.

Thought the cam timing had slipped, sucked up a puddle, blown the gasket :lol:

 

Just about turn blue and start screaming like a banshee

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Got a bit of an oil leak, sump's covered aswell as the bottom of the box :(

 

I can't be arsed to be f***ing about with this now. I'll leave it for a bit until I get the driveshafts sorted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Took sump off, wasn't the sole reason for the leaking oil; but the sump had a crack on the inside which looked suspect!

 

Turns out it's the rocker cover gasket... :angry: Could clearly see up the back of the engine now the sumps off and it's leaking quite a bit. Bit odd as it was properly sealed together?!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

The cam carriers and covers are fairly prone to leaking on '6 engines.

 

Alloy sumps often have what at a glance looks like fine cracking inside, but it's actually nothing to worry about and is just (I'm assuming) from casting. Normally it's obvious enough if it's a problem of note, and I would have personally said that it's unlikely that you'd crack it internally and not also crack it on the outside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

The cam carriers and covers are fairly prone to leaking on '6 engines.

 

Alloy sumps often have what at a glance looks like fine cracking inside, but it's actually nothing to worry about and is just (I'm assuming) from casting. Normally it's obvious enough if it's a problem of note, and I would have personally said that it's unlikely that you'd crack it internally and not also crack it on the outside.

 

I used plenty of sealant and annoyingly still leaks. Tom (cheesegrater) will find out how much the cam carriers leak soon :lol:

 

The sump was more precautionary action, I have a spare which I'm going to change it for. The crack isn't all the way through but is quite big/noticable, I'll take a pic and post it.

 

Also my new wheels. Cheers Surgie :)

 

IMAG0566.jpg

 

Bit of jiggling required on the stub axles for which I have a question:

 

Will 205 base model drums and stub axles fit on 306gti6 trailing arms? And also does anybody know off the top of their head, how much the track will be reduced.

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: Found This but doesn't tell how much it'll be reduced by.

 

Don't really want to have to go back to a 205 beam setup, which means buying 21mm bars :(

Edited by Paul_13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Yes - providing that you move the entire setup across, then it should fit fine - I've never actually done it that way around, but the other way certainly works.

 

Not sure on the track width front, but I have some base model and some GTi drums in the garage if you want me to measure them? It's only going to be in the 10mm difference sort of ballpark though, which isn't going to be sufficient to run SL434's on a 309 beam at a low ride height without decimating the arches I wouldn't have thought :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

Well my thought was, if changing to GTI6 setup from a 205 setup gains 8mm (iirc). Going from a GTI6 setup to 205 base model setup should be 10/12 (+)mm less.

 

th_IMAG0397.jpg

 

The tyres shown here are quite beefy, looking at my Falcon's they are quite skinny. All trail and error I suppose. The actual rim doesn't sit that far out.

 

I have a set of base model trailing arms in shed mate, i'll have a measure. Thanks for the offer tho :)

Edited by Paul_13

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
feb

What centre caps are you using on the SL434s?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Paul_13

I will be using 205 centre caps. The new ones that peugeot supply don't really hold in the hole properly :(

 

The wheels will be getting a refurb

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×