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Telf

[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

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Tom Fenton

Clean it back. Kurust it. Acid etch prime. Sealer. Then topcoat of your choice.

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Telf

Tom,

I used deox-c gel on the cleaned down area. Then a coating of a adrox rust killer. I then prime with an anti rust primer. The top coat of choice because it's in an area I never intend to look at again(hopefully) was the question. So is Hammerite any good?

 

I was going to paint it on the seam area just forward of the door pillars. After its dry add sealant and hoping to have dry footwells for the first time in 3 years

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welshpug

if you've done the rust prep and primer then normal paint will be fine.

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Telf

I'm going to expand a bit more! The next area I will tackle is underneath the car specifically around the fuel tank. As I will be lying on my back i thought that after priming etc a brush able paint ( like Hammerite ) might be easier to apply. So that's why I'm also wondering about its qualities. I'm not after an amazing factory finish because I'm going to waxoyl underneath anyways.

Edited by Telf

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Telf

Well it took me most of the day but hopefully no more wet feet!

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Edited by Telf
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Telf

I've already asked in the wanted section but anyways...does anybody have a left and right wing for sale?

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Gaz205

2 red ones on eBay - silly price though, I also placed a wanted a while ago but I was unsuccessful

Gaz

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Telf

well it may have to be pattern ones then :(

 

does anybody bother sealing them back on to the same extent as the factory did? it seems like massive overkill!

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Tom Fenton

I'd pay for the second hand genuine. Pattern just don't fit nicely. What is the matter with what you removed?

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Miles

I'd use a good stone chip over waxoil as again it's not what it was years ago and with stone chip (Upol etc) it's cleanable and doesn't look like a mess, for inside chassis sections I'd use another wax

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Kane

I reckon you could achieve the same protection using about a quarter of the amount of sealant that Peugeot applied from factory. Clearly the number of units out the factory door was priority and not the aesthetics of the seams ????

 

As for sealing post initial coat/paint I came across this article which compares various external coating products and cavity waxes that might be useful.

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GLPoomobile

I'd use a good stone chip over waxoil as again it's not what it was years ago and with stone chip (Upol etc) it's cleanable and doesn't look like a mess, for inside chassis sections I'd use another wax

 

This totally baffled me for a moment. I'm thinking, can you really apply stonechip on top of waxoil? Then it dawned on me what you meant. :rolleyes::blush:

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welshpug

its structural adhesive way before its time :lol: ever felt how flimsy a 205 wing is when its not sealed?

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steve@cornwall

Without being sealed its very very easy to damage the wing just by leaning on it, the "flitch panel" can leave an internal dent straight down the wing which is hard to cover up.And it lets the mud and wet into places it shouldn't be, like the edge of the front panel for one. Mine were not sealed on when replaced a few years ago and this was apparent when taking them off a few years later. At present mine are not sealed as I wanted to ensure the panel gaps are right and the lines on the wings and doors line up (swage lines?) For some reason my bonnet also sits too high at the o/s rear corner so I want to sort that too before sealing wings on permanently. When everything lines up nicely an I know it fits I will definitely be reassembling and sealing them .

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Telf

Ok cheers guys.

Tom the reason I'm after new ones is because I have dented both sides without realising. Both in the same place just above the indicators. It's harday noticeable but now I've seenjoyed it i won't be able to put up with it!

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Alan77

How about the option of a dent guy to have a go at your existing wings?

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Telf

yeah ive considered that. Theres a guy coming to quote me on the welding so I thought id ask him for local knowledge!

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Telf

I've just been quoted £600 to weld and finish all the suspect areas. Sort and respray the wings and bonnet. Seems like a reasonable amount.

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Anthony

That sounds very reasonable indeed if that's doing the work to a decent standard, as that's quite a few hours work there.

 

Hell, I would have expected the respray cost for the bonnet and wings would have been £300-400 odd alone, but things might well be a bit cheaper up in Suffolk compared to here.

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Gaz205

I've just been quoted £600 to weld and finish all the suspect areas. Sort and respray the wings and bonnet. Seems like a reasonable amount.

That seems very cheap, is he cutting all the old metal out or plating over old?

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Telf

Well I asked on the east coast retro site who locally could do the repair and the same name kept coming back. He came round and said he charges £20/hr for welding,had a good look and said what needed cutting out and thought it likely he'd have to replace part of the sill inner and outer. I just let him talk to see what his thoughts were. When he said £600 I was surprised. So I thought he'did be able to fit it in soon but no -booked up until January. I think I'm going to let him crack on. The thing that sold it was he said once it's cut back he would call so I could look before the repair so i know he's sorted it.

Edited by Telf

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Gaz205

Sounds promising, maybe take photos at each stage for your own records and any potential future sale if the question about rust is ever asked

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steve@cornwall

With the difference in price between an example with visible rust and a good solid car, I think that sounds a bargain.

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barneys66

Is that Dez - I've heard good things about him..?

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