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Telf

[Body_Work] Rust Rust And More Rust!

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Telf

guys,

 

Still cant get these wings off...

 

To get at the sealant do you go from inside the wheel arch or lever between the inner and outer wing from the engine bay side?

 

cant seem to get anywhere!

 

I thought Id use a camping stove to heat a putty knife the attack the sealant but I'm not getting very far!

 

Also I presume the front part of the wing needs the indicator assembly removing?

Edited by Telf

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GLPoomobile

Ta!

 

I had a look on their site and coudn't see them. Have to give them a call.

 

Just looked on Facebook. They announced the clips at the start of August and I don't think they have gone in to production yet. I think they are still awaiting the first samples from the laser cutters.

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Telf

so Gaz just for you heres how I removed my wing!

 

tools (apart from a socket set) 1x camping stove. 1 x plaster knife.

 

Method: Remove all the bolts 5 on the top of the wing. 2 at the front under the indicator,1 in the wheel arch where mudflags are often attached and 1 behind the kick panel in the footwell.

 

Heat up the plaster knife until its really hot.

 

First work along the lip from the engine bay as far as the bolt that protrudes on the suspension cap. The work inside the wheel arch back towards the bottom of the arch. Finally go from the indicator side into the arch to free the front.

 

Sounds easy but its not. Masses of sealant - especially around the top corner of the wing near the indicator.

 

Constantly heat the knife- it should sizzle as it goes through the sealant

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steve@cornwall

Definitely need to remove the indicator as the front of the wing is sealed down the join to the front panel. This is the joint I usually cut/chisel through first. From inside the engine bay it is sealed along its length where the bolts are. You need to cut through this by pushing your blade under the wing edge towards the wheel. Be aware that the front panel peaks up to the top of the wing here, higher than the top of the inner wing. You then have the trickiest bit in my opinion, the edge of the wing behind the wheel, because the sealant is applied to the back of the wing and is partially protected by the lipped edge. Cut as much sealant as you can see and you may be lucky enough to break the seal by pulling at the base of the wing outward, but be careful not to go too high with this as the flitch panel is sealed all the way to the top of the wing and the further you go the more likely the wing will fold. Once you have enough loose at the bottom of the wing, get the knife flat on the inside of the wing and work upward. Remember that once loose enough the wing is removed UPWARD , due to the front panel peak, don't try to remove by pulling outward away from the body. If you're tight on time, I wouldn't try removal, give yourself plenty of time.to both do this and take stress tea breaks too :-)

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Telf

the sealant only extends as far as the bolt on the suspension cap. there is a metal lip roughly inline with it

post-21474-0-86257100-1477584194_thumb.jpg

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steve@cornwall

Guess we typed at the same time.Basically same approach

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Telf

don't bend or force the panel - when its ready to come off it will do. Both mine freed off initially from the rear but still held at the front. I used a long screwdriver to ease the front off. Its hard to get through all the sealant near the indicator in the top corner due to the shape of the panel and the thickness of the sealant


lol hi steve!

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Telf

I have unfortunately managed to slightly crease 1 wing due to the lip half way along- I wasn't even aware it was there.... infact I was convinced it was stuck there s took to hammering under the lip and almost cutting through the metal of the lip that stands proud

 

 

post-21474-0-70866000-1477585147_thumb.jpg

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Telf

anyway wings removed. Hope this is helpful to someone! Now how much is a wing painted going to set me back......

  • Like 1

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Telf

reason for the wings being removed!

 

post-21474-0-63714000-1477585493_thumb.jpg

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Gaz205

so Gaz just for you heres how I removed my wing!

 

tools (apart from a socket set) 1x camping stove. 1 x plaster knife.

 

Method: Remove all the bolts 5 on the top of the wing. 2 at the front under the indicator,1 in the wheel arch where mudflags are often attached and 1 behind the kick panel in the footwell.

 

Heat up the plaster knife until its really hot.

 

First work along the lip from the engine bay as far as the bolt that protrudes on the suspension cap. The work inside the wheel arch back towards the bottom of the arch. Finally go from the indicator side into the arch to free the front.

 

Sounds easy but its not. Masses of sealant - especially around the top corner of the wing near the indicator.

 

Constantly heat the knife- it should sizzle as it goes through the sealant

Eagerly reading..... Looks like you've made progress!

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Gaz205

It certainly has helped me mate and the positive is you don't seem to have uncovered a rotten rusty mess

Thanks very much for that

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Telf

So heres one side of the failed seam sealant that's letting water into my drivers footwell. picture before and after I'd removed the sealant.

post-21474-0-20801400-1477674217_thumb.jpg

post-21474-0-45687800-1477674396_thumb.jpg

Edited by Telf

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Telf

the water was sitting behind the sealant - as I was chipping the sealant away water was appearing. weirdly the sealant was still quite hard to remove.

Ive treated the whole area with deox-c gel and will paint over and reseal hopefully solving at least one of my problems!

Edited by Telf

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Telf

On another note does anybody know if the panel pictured here is sealed or spot welded?

 

 

 

post-21474-0-42906600-1477674602_thumb.jpg

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Gaz205

What's your plans with the car now? I know you contemplated throwing the towel in

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Telf

Over the next few months the welding will be done, everything checked bodywork wise and coated in waxoyl then rebuild. Probably respray the bonnet and fit new wings. Replace the fuel lines and brake lines.refresh the bumpers and trim. Fit new Red strips! Fit new bumper mounts all round and new spots. Strip the dash and stop it rattling!

The main think is to get it rolling as soon as possible rather than sitting doing nothing!

Edited by Telf

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Gaz205

Fingers crossed you can sort it, I've had to take a reality check a bit with mine, I think 205's are always gonna have rust and work to do here and there... Don't write it off just yet just see it as a life long project!

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Telf

Guys does anybody use Hammerite as a first coat on under body etc? (After derusting) any thoughts if it's any good

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steve@cornwall

I have a hand written account in the back of my service book where the first owner hammerited the entire underside and wheel arches on the day it was delivered to him! Looks to have done a fabulous job of protecting it.

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welshpug

they've taken all the nasty s*it out of hammerite though so its nowhere near as good!

  • Like 1

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Kane

I opted for Jotun products for the first coat. Jotamastic 87 iirc, designed for boat hulls obviously in high salinity environments so should cope just fine on your average road deposits. Dries flexible so no risk of cracking and letting moisture in over time.

 

I had a go at applying it a number of ways; brush, roller, thinned down then sprayed on with a cup gun and all came out quite well. Drying time took a while when spraying mind you but that was outdoors (under a makeshift marquee) during winter months in Scotland so temperature never got into double figures. They sell a summer or winter type, the winter version being the probable choice in the uk given its curing temps unless you have access to an oven or lamps.

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