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cRaig

[car_restoration] My Longwinded 1.9 Laser Project

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GLPoomobile

Excellent touch. I know this particular mod has been mentioned a few times over the years, but this is the first time I've seen it done B)

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cRaig

Thanks :) Basically I'm working my through that "updating and modifying your 205" thread from a few years back :D I believe you had some crackers in there! :)

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jackherer

As above, it's been spoken about many times but nobody has ever posted a working solution.

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cRaig

I'm looking forward to getting it all finished, but the main compromises are (for those who are considering it)

 

The 309 parts are quite rare (obviously) and the 309 window "nut" visible on the outside of the window has a slightly different profile (is larger and flatter than the 205 ones) but isn't hugely noticeable once fitted), the cable operated lever part next to the glass is quite chunky, and will require some trimming of the interior 'c' panel, but if done neatly should look fine. I also think the 309 remote openers open slightly less than the manual ones, but I'm happy with that.

I'll take some pictures when its a bit more finished, but its not easy to photograph, as the parts are in the dark inner quarter panel! :)

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GLPoomobile

First thing I noticed when I watched the video was that they don't open out as far as normal. But as you say, it shouldn't really be an issue. In fact, I think I'd prefer them opening less as it looks more discreet.

 

As for the nut profile, I'm sure with your connections you could get a custom nut machined to match the originals ;)

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cRaig

There may be a little more fine tuning in the cable setup to ensure they are opening to their maximum travel, will investigate as it gets fine tuned/tested before all the trim goes back on. It did occur to me that a 3D printed window nut would solve the issue and match the 205 ones.. when I'm bored I will look into it :D

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Weser

I love it! I feel it also needs to be on a remote fob...? :ph34r:

Interested to know what sort of clamping force you get as it shuts? Is it a good seal?

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cRaig

It pulls into the seal nicely (after all, the motor is designed to do the exactly same job in a BMW 3 series coupe) You can play a note on the steel cable when its shut, so its got a fair bit of clamping force :D The slight concern is that the cable will stretch, but there is an adjuster built in, so should be able to take out the slack as needed, or can beef up the cable with something thicker/stronger.

Edited by cRaig

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Weser

Ahh yer I suppose if its built for the job it should seal enough. Its interesting I really like it.

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GLPoomobile

The mechanism is the least of your worries in terms of sealing. Once those window seals shrink it won't matter if the glass seals on them or not :P

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cRaig

Well, as Ive got the trim out off the boot and rear quarter, another couple of things I wanted to sort along the way:

 

Boot interior light:

 

I never liked the 205 standard soultion, as I found the metal bulb holder veyr flimsy, and on one occaion when the bulb was missing, mine shorted and melted a fair bit of wiring. So ive been eyeing up an improvement, and it turns out that later Peugeots (106s, 206s etc) have an interior light of the same dimensions, but with a much improved design- it has a proper moulded plug for one thing! Have also upgraded the bulb to a LED jobbie for improved illumination.

 

14581392087_95a6879ccd_c.jpg[/url]

 

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And while I was at it, as all of the trim was off, I now have a matching light on the drivers side as well!

 

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Ive also got a few of the bits to wire in the acoustic parcel shelf, and following the lead of the 1FMs, they utilise plugs fitted into the trim, with plugs allowing you to remove the shelf, without removing the speaker cable from the rear of the speaker, as the very small pins on the speakers arent really designed for repeated use, and are likely to fatigue. So Ive fitted a pair of photo sockets, and got some phono plugs to allow the speaker wire tails to be removed easily, while looking fairly subtle and standard

 

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Ive also sorted the brackets and fittings for the drivers side remote window opener, next job is to sort the limit switches, then some of the trim can start going back together, and I can edge forward with the next few bits to finish off :)

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eddie bullit

Brilliant!

Have you got a picture of the boot illuminated at night Craig?

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cRaig

While its not quite dark yet, Im sure you will agree it already looks a fair bit brighter!

 

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And one taken after sunset, they really do light up the car nicely! (the battery isnt a permanent addition to the rear, Ive just wired them in directly, as I havent sorted the wiring for them yet.. :P)

 

14584118887_002c7746b5_c.jpg

Edited by cRaig
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cRaig

Well, started reassembling the rear of the car, which is nice!

 

Started by trimming the interior C panels to accomodate the larger rear window openers, while not perfect, its not a bad job, and doesnt stand out! I have fitted a small bit of black neoprene around the rear of the cut to flex around the cable where it goes into the opener:

 

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And this is where the magic happens!

 

From the top:

 

P clip retaining the cable outer on an alloy turned spacer

Cable outer stop and spring bracket. The spring is just to assist the inbuilt spring in the switch, should ensure it keeps working as planned for as long as possible!

Microswitch as limit switch for the motor, and a brass trunion threaded on the cable to activate it

Motor mounted on rubber buffers and alloy spacers

 

And the black box contains a diode, as the motor has to operate in switched polarity mode to open the window, once the limit switch has cut it out on the return, apparently diodes can 'flame out' when the die, and I have quite alot of insulation material in the quarter, so fire is to be avoided! :D

 

 

14879127735_dfd15c4f89_c.jpg

 

The plan is to leave the quarter cards off for a week or so, with the windows in the closed position, to give the cables time to stretch, and then adjust as required and finish off the interior.

 

Boot reassembled with parcel shelf fitted, and speakers wired in, bar the last couple of crimps I ran out of the correct size!

 

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Just got the brackets for the CD changer to fit, and then the boot is all finished, and can crack on with moving forward in the car, finish off jobs as I go :)

Edited by cRaig
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GLPoomobile

Craig, do you reckon there's any scope to tidying up that speaker wiring? Not that it's bad as it is. But could you run the cable flush with the speaker basket then route it under the back panel of the parcel shelf and finally out near the hinged edge nearer the plugs?

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cRaig

I may look into tidying the wire a bit. My initial thoughts were a couple of small gold P clips to stop it drooping, rather than tucking it under the back panel. To be honest now the other crimps are fited, it holds the cable a bit tighter, and it doesn't bother me too much! Plus now it has been fitted for a while, the wire's "memory" holds it against the underside of the shelf when lifted, rather than drooping.

 

More progress moving forward with the interior, the passenger door card was removed to finish wiring in the external temp sensor fitted to the wing mirror. Peugeot came good with the correct pins, and after some scrapyard hunting, I found a suitable door connector plug from a Xsara picaso, which crucially is sealed with a rubber boot, rather than being filled with silicone in the factory. Which meant I could chop of the standard door plug (only sacrificing a couple of cms of wire, re terminate, and push the pins into the new plug with the addition of 3 pins for the temp sensor :)

 

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Quite alot of time and effort for 10 pin connecter, rather than 7, but I didn't want the extra wires just running between the door and the body, it would have driven me mad! For reference, the pins for the Ph2 door plus are 6542 R2 (3mm) and are still available in packs of 10 from Peugeot :)
15162643331_c810a8c9cd_c.jpg

 

 

While the door card was off, I templated up the openings and replicated the foam sealing sheet, and glued it into place. Another 'finishing touch' I hadn't got around to up until this point!

 

14978971190_ae618cdcb9_c.jpg

 

Door card back on and given a bit of a clean and tidy. Still very pleased with my satin metal interior door handles. Subtle, but a big improvement over the plastic ones :)

 

14978969960_a259332586_c.jpg

 

I have also moved forward with the aircon setup, which is the next big job I would like to complete. I have been saving up the pennies for a long time, and after much research committed to buying a brand new Sanden compressor. It is a slightly improved model - 7 piston, over the 5 piston model fitted to the 205, so should be more powerful/efficient but as its from a 405, it retains the same mounting lugs and dimensions between them, so once I track down the last of the top-hat bushes required for the sump, I can fit it and finish off running the pipes, get it pressure tested and hopefully gassed! While it wasnt cheap (£260- which on reflection I dont think is too bad for a brand new unit) the pulley has much less resistance on it, and spins much cleaner and freeer, plus it hasnt been exposed to the atmosphere for years like my old one!

 

15051797452_3231aa7769_c.jpg

 

Next job is to remove the jetronic ecu and loom for the final steps towards the engine management swap over, and some of the dash in order to install the heater box drain, and check over the aircon install. (I'm more knowledgeable about the aircon now, compared to when I swapped over the heater-box, so would like to go back and check over my work, and like the door- complete some 'snagging' of previous jobs and annoyances along the way) :) Plus it will make finishing off the new sound system and trip computer easier!

 

And lastly, another tarty finishing touch! While I have grumbled about the quality of the wheel centers that come with SL434s in the past, and did mention spraying up a set of silver ones from a 307, since then Peugeot has done me a favour and produced the 208 GTI/RCZ R which comes with anthracite wheels sprayed in a very similar colour, with the same hole diameter!

While I appreciate the modern lion certainly wont be to everyone's taste, they are easy to swap back, and in my book don't look any worse than the cheap decal'ed standard SL434 ones! Plus tarty wheels deserve tarty centers! :D

 

(you can also see my snazzy new garage carpet, which I'm very pleased with! :P)

 

14979050368_bb1547f957_c.jpg

 

15162641461_d0d6c8846a_c.jpg

Edited by cRaig
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acox99

Looks great. Keep up the good work. where did you find the foam sealing, it looks very close to the original stuff used.

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cRaig

Its Jiffy foam underlay- like you say, its a pretty decent match, bar it being a little corrugated. Works well when stuck down though :) I kept my templates from the openings, and have some foam left over, if anyone wants a set of foam bits cut to size for some beer money (I'm not looking to make a fortune, but its pretty tedious work! :D) I'm sure we could sort something out :)

 

A little bit more progress- dashboard out, ready to crack on with wiring in the amp, checking over the aircon, and cracking on with the trip computer finishing bits and pieces! :)

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cRaig

While the interior is out Ive also ticked off another job I've been meaning to do for ages- welding a captive nut to the passenger seat rail so I can fit my a/c spec car jack. As mentioned previously, its a new-old-stock item that Farmer tracked down from a European dealer, and still has the parts sticker on it! While it is a bit fiddly to bolt into place, its not going to be used that often, and its certainly better to have a jack, rather than risking a puncture etc without one!

Had to trim the carpet, but when the seat is back in, it should look fairly unnoticeable, and a pic of a 1FM interior was used for reference, so it is as 'factory' as reasonably possible :)

 

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In order to finally resolve the issue with the two missing obscure m7 socket head cap bolts that mount through the compressor lugs, I've decided to drop the sump and helicoiled them to the infinitely more sensible size of M8x1.25. Unsurprisingly, I could then track down bolts easily off ebay- so once the gasket faces have been cleaned up, I can refit and once some bolts get back from zinc plating, fit the compressor to the sump!

 

15019140059_49f0769c33_c.jpg

 

I have also refitted my refurbished spoiler, as mentioned on this thread http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=160295&page=3 Paul kindly refinished it, and with the material costs split between 4 spoilers, it was entirely reasonable, and it looks 100x better than it did before. It had always annoyed me since the respray, but I hadn't really put much time or thought into improving it. Given its a UPOL product, I'm fairly confident it should last well, but time will tell! The texture and colour is nice and even, the worn patches towards each end of the spoiler are no longer visible at all. :)

 

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15182896306_a8fe85d732_c.jpg

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timoth123

Craig, out of interest. What size screws did you use to fix the spoiler to the tailgate?. Got mine back from paul also but have no screws here!

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farmer

Tim I have some on the shelf or my dealer has am sure.

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cRaig

Aircon and on and on.. :P

 

While the dash is out my plan was to properly sort the heaertbox, both aircon and regular heating/cooling for a good long while, so in order to do that, I have been amassing the requisite parts for the last couple of years! Farmer tracked down a NOS fan, and I got lucky with a brand new SIEM resistor card and Valeo heater matrix off ebay.

 

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I even spotted some brand new cables on ebay a while back, so it should all be as reliable as possible!

 

15287817856_f6b001feae_c.jpg

 

The collection of shiny bits! Including new aircon HNBR seals, and the small, but crucial condensation drain kindly offered up by Jackherer

 

15124236400_0758114573_c.jpg

 

So I harvested my collection of heater boxes to create a hybrid of all the parts to ensure no parts/fixings are cracked or broken, gave it a good clean inside and out and fitted all the new shiny gubbins.

 

15310510582_85ccf987f1_c.jpg

 

So the heater box with all the new fittings, including the proper a/c dial backing, shipped over from Australia!

 

15124285218_1c4fdf7b16_c.jpg

 

Have even got the all important black dial front with that crucial frosty flake! :D Have tested the dials and they all operate smoothly and all the flaps work as they should.

 

15124284378_772e91b3b5_c.jpg

 

So the box is all ready to fit, just waiting for some neoprene foam to seal around the a/c evaporator against the bulkhead. You can see the heater box drain point in the bottom of the pic, the only difference between the a/c and non/ac boxes. Everything else can be overcome by removing knockouts if anyone wanted to convert their own heaterbox.

 

15124095029_e5fe2c98ee_c.jpg

 

Also rummaged out my last a/c pipe, runs from the compressor to the bulkhead under the engine. Just needs a clean up and some surface rust removing, will probably spray the bare pipe with something to prevent future corrosion, as replacing it wouldn't be cheap!

 

15124305827_4a85a1d7aa_c.jpg

 

While the dash is out, and I'm working on improving the soundsystem- Ive also replaced the radio coax cable, Farmer managed to track down a new old stock cable, which is considerably more flexible and fresh than the old one! Fishing the cable through was a minor pain in the arse, but much easier with the dash out, while the access was as good as it gets.

 

15310875045_73fd2738f1_c.jpg

 

I'm also plodding along with other mods in the background- I'm in the process of getting ready to fit the ABS pump. Ive got a 205 ABS pump bracket, but obviously it doesn't line up with the 306 pump, but fortunately the basic geometry of both are very similar. I cut up the 306 pump bracket, and welded the missing bottom mounting lug to the 205 bracket. Next job is to make a couple of little L brackets to support the other two mounting points. I think it should look fairly OE when its done.

 

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So next job, heaterbox back in, tidy the loom and finish off the wiring and trip computer etc. The mounting bolts for the a/c compressor and some other bits should be back from the platers soon, so can fit the compressor, pipes and see about getting it gassed up! Cant wait! :)

 

I also discovered a hideous bodge hidden on the ignition switch loom- the hangover from a delightful alarm installers finest handwork. If anyone has a a spare "Y" plug'ed ignition loom, I would very much like one to replace it :) Cheers

 

15307707041_7b66b83da4_c.jpg

Edited by cRaig

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2052NV

Amazing attention to detail!!! Im super jelous of your brand new heater fan

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cRaig

Thanks! :) I'm very pleased with the heater fan, and will do my best to ensure it has a long and healthy life with no squeaks or rattles! Part of that plan is to fit on the cabin inlet pollen filters I'm in the process of having made (thread in the group buy section a while back) Its still on the cards, but I'm having them sewn up as a favour, so its taking longer than I thought! Should help to keep dust and leaves out of the fan, and rest of the cabin air system.

 

Heaterbox is now back in, and I have started sorting and repairing the interior dash wiring as required. Once all the current wiring is back in place, I can make a start on the dash wiring for the trip computer and other bits and pieces like the new clarion amp.

 

15477146262_4b681755df_c.jpg

 

In preparation of the new wiring, I spotted a redundant earth block location on the opposite side of the steering column to where one is fitted from the factory, so I have cleaned off some paint and fitted a good condition block in anticipation of the new earths I will need, rather than chopping around an existing earth plug. (the amp, rear quarter electric windows, trip computer etc all need a new earth) A small detail, but keeps everything nice and standard looking behind there.

 

15454415216_d5ffd7e9ee_c.jpg

 

Well, what was a small job in itself, feels like a massive step forward, the aircon compressor is now fitted! :D

 

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Took a bit of trial and error to get a belt that worked satisfactorily- service box suggests its a 840mm belt run, but I couldn't get one on, even without the tensioner in place! Tried a couple of different sizes from the motorfactor, and settled on a 855mm, which is tight enough to fit, but leaves plenty of adjustment on the tensioner if the belt stretches in the future.

 

Clean and shiny!

 

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The compressor might have to be dropped once more, in order to drain and refill the oil with the correct spec for the new gas (R134a), but now Ive had some practice it shouldn't be too bad. Im in the process of cleaning and painting the last big aircon pipe, once that is done I shall get a local aircon regassing company to pressure test and refill, feels like on the home run of project aircon now! :)

 

Another couple of nerdy jobs done:

 

Tracked down the correct Peugeot clip for the plastic cam cover, just neatens things up slightly!

 

15477044592_4692814d73_c.jpg

 

Fitted the long alloy aircon pipe and receiver dryer:

 

15290510919_decaaf524a_c.jpg

 

Including the replated strut top bracket and clip :)

 

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Another nerdy addition ready to be fitted now is an original horn and compressor (very sad I know..) Tracked down an original bracket which has been replated, so its ready to bolt up to the front bumper iron.

 

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And once the aircon has been pressure tested and gassed, I can start filling in what little space is left in the engine bay with the remaining power steering parts, which are now ready to fit

 

15290786620_1f1f0dc3c4_c.jpg

Edited by cRaig
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timoth123

Any firm with the correct equipment will be able to add oil to the system through the service points. Mo need to remove the compressor again! :)

 

Lookin good mate, I'm loving the attention to detail.

Edited by timoth123
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