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cRaig

[car_restoration] My Longwinded 1.9 Laser Project

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tartanbloke

The plastic manifold is lighter! I'm sure that helps to offset the extra weight of all the other stuff..! :ph34r::D

 

Alternatively, go on a diet to become really skinny and that will offset all the extra weight...he he

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cRaig

Haha! I recon I must have added around 25kgs of extra weight? Which isn't the end of the world in the scheme of things! Its not like every time you put something in the boot, or have even one passenger in the car most people complain their 205 suddenly becomes gutless and handles badly :D

 

Thanks for the heads up on the HT lead holder Anthony, if you do have one spare, I would like it off you at some point next time we catch up :)

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cRaig

Bit more progress today. Heated seat wiring looms fitted, wired in and tested. Just need to secure the new wiring to the existing dash loom with some tape etc, but wanted to test it all works first! The backlit switch even comes on when they are turned on! :D Have decided (after much deliberation) to run both seats off the single switch, which then leaves the 5th switch hole free for a/c. The relays for the heated seats are secured to the bracket for the trip computer, the element feed comes direct from the shunt box in the engine bay, and the +ve for the switching circuit is taken from a spare 3 pin plug on the fuseboard, which gets a switched live when the 'missing' relay is installed, as mentioned in this topic (http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=120065)

 

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Generally pretty pleased! Is a neat and tidy install, with use of pug connectors and new non-insulated crimps, so the various parts can be removed if needs be :) Will secure the fuse holders for the seat elements just next to the gear gaitor there, so they can be accessed through lifting the gear gaitor, or removing the coin tray in front of it. Shouldnt need doing that often, so I think thats fine for a minor ancillary.

Also made a start on the link loom from the new head unit to the Clarion amplifier which lives under the heater box. Griffe+1FM spec here we come! :D:P

 

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Realised I haven't actually uploaded any pics of the head unit! It was a pretty rare find (unsurprisingly!) Stumbled across it in Italy, and fortunately my pidgeon google-translated Italian was enough to convince him to accept paypal and post it to the UK!

Its a CDC 6700R headunit, with remote control and a CD player in the headunit and CD changer compatibility. No internal amp, so relies on an external amp, which hangs on a bracket below the heater box. As fitted to various Alfas and things like Integrales n the 1990s, and of course it goes without saying as found in the 1FMs!

 

Even came with its removable faceplate storage box, after all these years is fairly cool!

 

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Trip computer, and engine management loom are the main out standing jobs now, slowly working down the list! :)

Edited by cRaig

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GLPoomobile

See that heated seat switch? Did you get the logo printed specially for this, or was there a Peugeot already out there with heated seats using those switches, that you managed to rob it from?

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cRaig

Its a genuine Pug part (6553 38) which is still available according to service box! I think it helps that the same style round dimpled switches were used in the 106. The switch was actually fitted to the 205, the colder European countries (Scandinavia etc) the 205 GTIs came with heated seats from the factory. :)

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GLPoomobile

Aw, I'm disappointed! I'd have been more impressed if you'd got the switch cover produced just for this ;-)

 

Keep up the good work though :)

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cRaig

Wiring tidied up a bit, and a few more jobs ticked off. USB cable added for updating the trip computer and have wired in the rear electric window openers, on the CTI electric roof switch to go in the gear stick cubby.

 

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One last job to do- Ive got to splice the +ve feed to the window switch into the fuseboard- I thought the neatest way to do it would be to add it to the +ve pin for the front electric windows (same fuse then for future problem finding etc) Ive had a quick look on the wiring diag, but I couldn't find it- does anyone happen to know what plug and pin the +ve feed to the electric windows on the fuseboard is?

 

Thanks, and a Merry Christmas! :)

 

 

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cRaig

Wire, wires and more wires! 98% of the the trip computer now installed. Including the VSS, internal and external temperature sensors (each of which have three wires) injector piggyback wire. Purchased a new ATX 24 pin plug and terminals, rather than use the supplied plug with wire tails, means less soldering and joins, and less bulky wiring, with all the heatshink etc

 

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Have wired in the screen and buttons using a recycled 4 pin brown plug, with new terminals, and have piggybacked the former clock plug to supply a 12v constant and a switched live. (The two brown plugs in the photo) Means the screen can be unplugged easily, and the wiring follows the standard dash loom location, lightly more convoluted than going straight from the screen to control box, but thought it was better it follows the rest of the dash wiring logic.

 

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Should be able to test all the functions of the trip computer shortly, just need to wire in a fuse and a few last bits and pieces. Anyone know if you can get 0.5A blade fuses? The only ones I can find are old school glass ones..

 

 

A small Christmas present to myself- came across a really cheap brand new oil pipe for the remote cooler on ebay for 20 quid, sadly inorder to make the pair, the only other one that I could track down was from PeugeotParts in Yorkshire, which unsurprisingly wasn't as cheap! Still, adding both pipes together and dividing the cost still made a significant saving on Pug retail! Happier as it now means all the oil pipes are new, no 20 year old crusty pipes with the potential to cause problems in the future!

 

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cRaig

Rear quarter windows now work off the switch fully wired in, and the trip computer also works on the proper car wiring for the first time, rather than bodging it direct to a battery etc!

 

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Think my battery is on its way out! :D Also need to finish off and connect up the outside temp sensor. Still, very pleased with the progress :)

 

 

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cRaig

Few more jobs ticked off.

 

Got my 205 remote central locking plipper up and running again (my original one was killed by a leaky sunroof!) Soldered in a new plug kindly supplied by Anthony from a 405, which was in much better condition without corrosion as seen on most of the 205s with sunroofs. Also made an effort to waterproof the reciever to prevent future issues! Although new sunroof handle seals and aerial base should (in theory..!) see it dry for some time..

 

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Nice to have the old-school plipper again! :)

 

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To finish off the roof console I grabbed a map light out of a 106 the last time I was at the scrapyard- same overall size, but much like the boot light, it has an improved bulb holder and rocking mechanism, as well as a proper 2 pin plug, rather than the loose fit single spades. Coupled with a new led bulb is another small modern touch.

 

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Also fitted a christmas treat- a pair of brand new rear quarter seals. So much bigger than the old shrunken seals! I recon they were easily 2inches larger in circumference! Fitting them took so much longer than the old ones, approximately 20mins per seal! Needed to be carefully tapped into the corners fully with a softface hammer, before it got anywhere close to fitting in the opening!

 

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Much thicker than the old seals as well.

 

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Look pretty much the same now they are fitted, but the sealing against the glass is much more positive!

 

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A couple of mods to finish off in the interior, then, once the aircon is gassed the dash can go back in! :)

Edited by cRaig
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Miles

With the recoever you can always varnish the PCB and resistors/IC's etc as it's common practice on MOD equipment and does the job, bag's tend to trap moisture so can make things twice as bad as not having anything due to lack of Air circulation

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cRaig

Yeah, I did briefly consider resin encapsulation- maplin sell the stuff, but I wasn't 100% sure all the components on the receiver board would be happy being covered, as it thermally insulates, not sure if any of the components get warm etc. Will do some more research.

 

Edit:

 

Conformal Coating may be an easier option (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conformal_coating) Unlike resin potting (encapsulation) you can still inspect the circuit board etc.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ELECTROLUBE-HPA200H-CONFORMAL-COATING-200ML/dp/9792225226/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421227325&sr=8-2&keywords=Conformal+coating

Edited by cRaig

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jackherer

There is no significant load going through the receiver board so it wont get warm. In fact the current flow should be so low that a small fuse to protect it and it's wiring should be feasible.

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cRaig

Cool. Seems like resin encapsulation is the way to go then. Certainly should protect the board from mechanical vibration damage and water damage, which are the main contenders for killing it. It just worries me slightly that once its encapsulated, it can never be inspected or repaired in any way!

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jackherer

That's a good point but I think the benefits outweigh the risks. It'll need some sort of boot for the electrical connector too, that is where I've seen signs of corrosion and short circuits in the past.

 

The other thing that worries me is the remote itself, there isn't much holding it together so I am constantly expecting it to fall off my keyring and get lost.

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cRaig

Ive got a few spare boots from new JPT connectors, might have one small enough to seal well, coupled with a bit of silicone, will investigate :)

 

I know what you mean about the remote fob! Will just have to be careful with it, I cant think there is a way of reinforcing it without damaging those trendy retro looks! :D:P

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Miles

With the varnish finish you can still see everything, The encapsulation I have done was always in a vacuum chamber to get the air out of it

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Ballyafb

NICE! Where did you get the new seals from, wouldn't mind a set myself!

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welshpug

NICE! Where did you get the new seals from, wouldn't mind a set myself!

 

 

where else but a pug dealer :lol:

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Ballyafb

 

 

where else but a pug dealer :lol:

 

Ah...Will have to double check Service Box, I thought they had ended. Excellent!!

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farmer

Mind when you go to pug and when they tell you it's NFP the door doesn't hit you on the bum on the way out !

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mrfirepro

Picked mine up yesterday and just wanted to check a few things, as I plan to fit it tomorrow. (maybe others will have the same questions)

 

1. The wiring to my existing horn (standard weedy one) is a very narrow gauge, I was just wondering what the current consumption is of this new unit and will this narrow gauge cable be able to handle any increase in current.

 

2. I think I have read other threads that talk about two different horn configuration, with and without a relay. If mine is a standard configuration without a relay will I need to introduce a relay to drive the new horn, or have I remembered this wrongly....(my haynes manual wiring schematic does not show a horn relay)

 

The new unit looks really good, can't wait to get it on the car.

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dcc

With the horn, I have run existing wiring to a relay, which switches a nice juicy live for the horn compressor.

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Slo

Dont even think about wiring up a compressor to the original thin horn cable, if it doesnt melt the wiring eventually, it will kill the horn button/switch with the current shooting through it. Not only that it probably wont work 100% anyway as there wont be enough current supplied through the wiring. Ive also used a relay using the existing wiring for the trigger, being situated right next to the battery is a big bonus too

Edited by Slo

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