[engine_work] 2.0 Turbo Cti Project Begins

[Henry Yorke 270 3 Cars]

Nice relay!!

 

Can't wait till it is Taxed and Tested and we can have Sheffields first Gay Pride Carnival!!

[Death_Machine 0]

i just woke the house up lol, top job!

[M@tt 77]

It's been a while but I've been chipping away at the old CTI.

 

Now that the engines running i've turned my attention to the various bodywork/ interior jobs still to do.

 

I took the carpet out gave it a jet wash/shampoo over the washing line. It took bloody ages as 20 years worth of dirt and grime were really well embedded but it came out nice and clean in the end (forgot to get a pic though!)

 

I also repaired some tears in the carpet using duct tape after making sure i white spirited the surrounding area to remove any grease/dirt so that the tape stuck really well.

(just a few strips in the pic but i completely strapped the rip up and you could hardly tell)

 

The front sound deadening was in a pretty dire situation so i ripped that out, cleaned up the floor and replaced it with some carpet i'd liberated from a local carpet places bin

 

 

I've also started refurbing the 1.9 alloys on the car. It's taken the best part of 2 days to do all 4 alloys both inside and out. I've primed them, normal coated them then finally a clear coat.

 

 

 

 

so i'm gradually getting there...

[Goliath 94]

Looking good

 

How did you clean the wheels before primering them? I guess you sanded where apropriate but what about in all the little bits that are hard to get to? They look really nice

[M@tt 77]

I used various wire brush attachments on my drill and also some sanding pads on a foam pad on my angle grinder and some good old elbow grease with a piece of sandpaper.

 

The're not perfect as there were some quite big gouges in places on the alloys so it would probably would have been better to have used some sort of filler first and then sanded them down, but tbh they're only very small and there's only a couple. The primer i used was semi high build so it did take some of the imperfections out of the wheel with a light sand.

[Henry Yorke 270 3 Cars]

Don't forget to spray your wheel centre caps in fresh paint too! A lot of people forget

[Goliath 94]

I have just had a good look at your pictures and have a few questions I would like you to answer for me

 

In this picture:

Where does this go to? In the haynes it shows it going to the expansion tank IIRC, is that where you have run it? (obviously it is disconnected in this photo)

Is this just a breather? I notice in one of your other pictures you have put a breather filter on it, are you running it like that ot have you routed into an intake pipe or something?

Where does this pipe off the TB go to?

Also, I couldn't find a picture, where does the turbo's water pipe go? Its the metal pipe that comes out 'on top' of the turbo and goes vertically up about 4-6". I'm guessing its the return pipe and the feed being the short pipe underneath?

[Goliath 94]

Got another one.......

 

Where does this pipe go? Is it just a 'screamer' pipe that goes to the atmosphere.

[Tom Fenton 1,582]

Come on Matthew chop chop, isn't this on the road yet!!!

[M@tt 77]

Almost finished,just waiting on my pipes back from Stew Baker (hint hint stew if you read this ). I wired in a Toad Cat 2 immobilser this weekend and my hands are beaing the scars of sharp bits of plastic up behind the dash <ouch>

 

Right George

1. The hose pictured is not used instead, you connect the standard 205 expansion tank top right hose to the outlet by the stat housing. It's a bit long but you can fit it without shortening it.

2. In the normal XM setup there is a hose from the oil filler body back to the plastic inlet pipe but i've removed it (and shortened the plastic inlet pipe removing the hose joiner) and have fitted a smaller breather filter instead. This is where you'd put a catch tank if you so wished.

3. That hose on the TB goes to the purge canister solenoid

4. that hose from the boost solenoid goes to a small takeoff on the black plastic inlet pipe just after the air filter

 

hope that helps

[Goliath 94]

Awesome, thanks Matt.

 

Also, I couldn't find a picture, where does the turbo's water pipe go? Its the metal pipe that comes out 'on top' of the turbo and goes vertically up about 4-6". I'm guessing its the return pipe and the feed being the short pipe underneath?

Any idea on this one?^^^

 

Right George

1. The hose pictured is not used instead, you connect the standard 205 expansion tank top right hose to the outlet by the stat housing. It's a bit long but you can fit it without shortening it.

2. In the normal XM setup there is a hose from the oil filler body back to the plastic inlet pipe but i've removed it (and shortened the plastic inlet pipe removing the hose joiner) and have fitted a smaller breather filter instead. This is where you'd put a catch tank if you so wished.

3. That hose on the TB goes to the purge canister solenoid

4. that hose from the boost solenoid goes to a small takeoff on the black plastic inlet pipe just after the air filter

 

hope that helps

 

1. Sorted

2. Sorted

3. Ok, will have to find that and sort it!

4. I don't have said black plastic pipe, if I fit it onto an air intake pipe on the filter side of the turbo would that be ok?

 

Thanks again!

[M@tt 77]

4. I don't have said black plastic pipe, if I fit it onto an air intake pipe on the filter side of the turbo would that be ok?

 

yeah that would be fine

[M@tt 77]

Update time

 

You might have seen in one of my other threads that i've decided to respray the CTI (Laser Green) before i get it on the road so i've started stripping it down the ready to be prepped. The plan is to turn my car port into a DIY spray booth by sheeting it up and spray the car in there. As long as i'm careful and take my time and it should hopefully work out quite well. Cost wise it should hopefully come in under £200.

 

Over the weekend i removed all the side trims and removed the rear bumper, then this eveningfinished stripping down the doors removing the door cards, handles, locks, seals and wing mirrors.

 

 

As i'm intending to do the respray properly i removed the windscreen as well. It didn't take long at all (i guess it helps i've done it before though) so with a couple of flat blade screwdriversand a small pry bar (very useful fyi) i worked my way round the seal from the inside pushing the seal back behind the window frame lip until the widow would just push out gently.

 

 

At the bottom of the window fram eon the passenger side it looks like the frame had just started to rust but it looks like i've causght it just in time as it only appears to be mild surface rust.

 

 

So the few remainign tasks before prepping can start in earnest are to remove the rear passenger door cards as there is part of the body exposed on the inside of the car that will need spraying and also the hood & frame will need removing. I might look to have this blasted and powder coated as its a bit rusty in places.

 

Oh and whilst i think of it i also did the tacho modification on my clocks last night as well so that the rev counter works with the turbo engine. I used the same method on my GTI6 clocks and it's worked perfectly.

 

pic courtest of PeterT i believe

[Tom Fenton 1,582]

Interesting, is it just that white wire that needs soldering in?

[M@tt 77]

yep that's all it needs

 

I did read in one post that someone said their tacho stopped working, but i've been running my GTI6 like this and its been completely fine.

 

I soldered the wire on with the tacho face still attached to the workings as i couldn't get the pointer off the spindle, as i felt i was going to break something if i pulled it any harder. It's accessible from the side but just a little fiddlier. That said it still only took about 20 mins to do, including removing the bits of dash, doing the soldering and then putting it all back togaether.

Edited April 8, 2009 by M@tt

[taylorspug 7]

Same way i do my rev counters, works a treat.

[Tom Fenton 1,582]

yep that's all it needs

 

I did read in one post that someone said their tacho stopped working, but i've been running my GTI6 like this and its been completely fine.

 

I soldered the wire on with the tacho face still attached to the workings as i couldn't get the pointer off the spindle, as i felt i was going to break something if i pulled it any harder. It's accessible from the side but just a little fiddlier. That said it still only took about 20 mins to do, including removing the bits of dash, doing the soldering and then putting it all back togaether.

 

Fancy doing one for me?

[M@tt 77]

yeah no probs i'll drop you a pm

[M@tt 77]

Had a couple of deliveries this week of supplies for prepping the CTI for its respray.

 

 

I bought a proper sander/polisher and a selection of scotchbrite pads and wet and dry paper

 

so hopefully i should be able to make a start on it over the bank holiday

Edited April 9, 2009 by M@tt

[Tom Fenton 1,582]

A rotary machine like that is great for compounding paint, but I would not use if for sanding down as it will leave great gouges everywhere, you need a DA sander or orbital for paintwork really.

[Henry Yorke 270 3 Cars]

Fancy doing one for me?

yeah no probs i'll drop you a pm

 

I've got a couple of spare sets of 205 clocks I can drop off so you can mod them and it saves Tom getting one out from "stock"

[M@tt 77]

Update time.

 

I had a good crack at the CTI today, luckily the weather remained nice so i could spend most of the day on it.

 

The first task was to remove and strip the convertible frame and hood. It was quite apparent that although it looked in reasonable nick at first glance, underneath it was pretty rusty.

 

 

The rear metal clamp bar was really really rusty and i'm going to have to sort something as i don't think its salvagable

 

 

 

One of the top bars was also really rusty and the screws in it had rusted solid so i had to drill them out

 

 

but after an hour or two i had it all out and apart

 

 

On insepction i did find a small tear in the stitching which i'll have to look at getting fix other wise it'll leak like a bugger

 

 

Don't you wish sometimes you never started a particular job

 

With the hood all out i put the CTI back on its wheels so i could roll it forward so it's a bit further in the carport and away from the rain. I then gave some of the panels a rubbing down with scotch pads, but thats about as far as i got.

 

 

[Alastairh 47]

Sweet! Gotta say, rather you than me on that roof removal!

 

Al

[steve@cornwall 100]

Can't wait to see this finished - so nice .With the roof covering I'd patch it from inside , liberally smearing a suitable patch (bit of pond liner, inner tube patch etc) with black PU panel sealant as this sticks to anything - would prob. stick poopoo to a chrome shovel )

 

How are the side rails by the rear window and the rear stiffeners?.

Those rear rails are hideously expensive ( I think I have a salveageable one somewhere will check)

 

On the rear rail, where you drilled the screws out, an early one I had actually had the screws brazed in place, although this was a PITA when the screws sheared off, the benefit was very obvious when I replaced the lining - It's no easy feat having to hold a screw head whilst fitting the nut (esp. with the roof cover, zip,headlining retainer all staying in place) I used marine grade ss screws and in hindsight would have fitted them in the rail with epoxy.

 

Edit - still have this rail, I think, IIRC this was the only rust on it but I replaced it as I had a mint one available. If I find it, I'll run a grinder over it to check the extent of rust..

Edited April 12, 2009 by steve@cornwall

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You can still buy that back metal part, I got one for mine a few years ago and got it powder coated and covered it in wax oil along with the side parts on the qtr panel's, 6 years odd on and no sign of rust yet, Just don;t ask for the cost