[engine_work] 2.0 Turbo Cti Project Begins

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

You will need a XU VSS as that's the Auto box which doesn;t fit the BE box, Loom wise I think as it's from a XM most of the wires are green, Not sure if anyone has done one of these

[welshpug 1,622]

that blue sensor isnt the right one for that black plug, you can see the raised bit on it in the picture, the plug for that sensor will be blue and have an appropriate slot in it (quite possibly the Temp gauge+light sender that one, as IIRC the ECU temp sender is green on later engines)

[M@tt 77]

ah that'd explain it then

 

i'll drop you a pm about those vss's you got

 

right best crack out the wiring diagrams and start looking at some wire numbers in that case

[M@tt 77]

its not the temp one as the 3 sensors (inc temp ones) on the stat housing all have the 3 correct plugs already (correct colours and notches)

 

it really is the only plug and sensor left, looking at this diagram it does appear to be the right one (long cable at the bottom left had side), i wonder if someones replaced the sensor at some point with an incorrect one

Edited December 9, 2007 by M@tt

[Rob Turbo 3]

From your above post

 

1. Doesn't go anywhere!

 

2. Coil pack plug, the black bit should have a metal tab sticking out to bolt it to the head, just under the coil pack, I'm not sure if it NEEDS to be bolted down or not

[M@tt 77]

cheers for the info Rob

 

ah didn't look on the coil pack doh!! plug must be on the bottom as i didn't spot it, i'll have a look for that other metal bit is kicking around

 

do you know if the wire numbers on the XM are the same as 406? i''ve got a 406 wiring diagram but not a decent xm version

[Rob Turbo 3]

I'm not sure about the wire numbers, on my XM loom I couldn't find any numbers so just went through it with a multimeter!

 

All the important bits of the loom are the same between the two, except maybe the switched live to the brown relay, on mine the diagram said the s/w live went to pin 3 but there was no pin 3 on the plug, a quick look at the wiring diagram shows that pin 2 and 3 are connected inside the relay so I used pin 2 instead and it worked no problems!

[sonofsam 5]

XM diags. are in my project thread!

 

Like Rob says though wire numbers on the loom are rarely there, so time for some multimeter action

Edited December 9, 2007 by sonofsam

[M@tt 77]

right bit of an update

 

so tonight i found that infact what i thought previously was the connector for the oil temp sensor in the sump was actaully for the Purge Canister Solenoid Valve

 

what is this purge cannister for? do i need it? and if not what would i do about the solenoid wiring and the other pipes that go to it?

 

that also leaves no remaining sensor plugs at all on the loom, therefore does anyone (probably one for RobTurbo as he seems to be the only one who's used an XM loom) know if the oil temp sensor connector is on a seperate loom? also i can find no reference to the sensor on any of the wiring diagrams (406 or XM)

 

There is no oil pressure warning light switch on the block, i assume XM flicked on its dash warning light if the pressure from the gauge was below a certain threshold as opposed to having a seperate sensor controlling the light? Have people had to manually fit a seperate oil pressure sensor? if so how & where? not sure the hole whether where the sensor is on the 8v\mi16 goes all the way through into the block (could be wrong)

 

I don't seem to have the Vehicle Speed Interface Module as listed on the wiring diagram, is this box hidden under the dash somewhere that i may have missed? but that said looking at the wiring diagram if that was the case i would expect to be able to pin out both the connector pins from the Vehicle Speed Sensor(plugs into diff housing) to the large round black connector or the other empty 7 pin connector (pictured above) as both wires from the sensor go into the module (and its not on the loom) but i could only pin out 1 wire and i checked and double checked. Is it possible i dont have\require the module?

 

also Rob i found that the switched live that needs to go to ECU pin 27 for the ECU was actually through that 7 pin connector you said you didn't need. i also found the K light wire also goes through it as well.

 

I'm documenting all this with diagrams in a word document and will publish my definitive wiring guide for an XM loom once i've completed it all hopefully not too long now

[Rob Turbo 3]

There is no oil pressure gauge sender, only the oil pressure switch, to use the gauge you need a t-piece to fit the sender from the gti engine. There was no oil temp plug on my loom either so I just added a plug and taped the wire to the main loom. The VSS module will be lurking under the dash somewhere, can't remember where though! For the VSS I added the plug myself because on my loom that plug didn't go into the engine loom.

 

Are you sure the switched live and K light only go to the 7 pin connector? I know that I never had anything connected to that, everything I needed was on the round connector

 

I don't know what the purge valve does exactly, I didn't keep the canister, I just ran a pipe from the valve to behind the headlight!

 

Also, did you get the turbo pipe?

[M@tt 77]

ah right i got it the wrong way round about the gauge/switch did i doh!! where's the best (cheapest) place to get suitable T pieces from?

 

bugger the donor XM has now been crushed!! any ideas of other model cars that might have the same module kicking round on them. Is it a Turbo model only thing or will it be found on normal injection models too?

 

yeah i'm pretty positive about the 7 pin conenctor, i've been over it a few times now to double check and i'm determined to find out what the remianign 3 wires are for aswell

 

apparently the purge canister absorbs excess fuel vapour in the pipes and releases it on a solinoid back into the induction system!!

 

no pipe yet, proabably in the xmas backlog, more than likely be there tomorrow, let me know how much you need for it and i'll send the cash across

[Rob Turbo 3]

Clicky, use a 3 pin vss and you can do away with the control box!

 

I'm not sure where to get a T piece from, I never bothered with the gauge!

[sonofsam 5]

Yeah I didnt worry about retro fitting oil pressure senders either, mainly because thats where my boost gauge is now!

and I have a warning light somewhere else .

[M@tt 77]

Another long overdue update, the dark nights, cold weather and work have had meant progress hasn't been as great as i would have liked. Over the past couple of weekends i've been tackling cleaning up the engine bay and sorting some rust on the front panels, ready for te engine going back in.

 

I've chopped out some of the worst rust with a view to getting some patch panels welded in, and today i've cleaned it up and primered it. It's only rattle can but tbh it's not going to be seen so i'm not overly concerned

 

a few pics

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/DSC00378.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/DSC00377.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/DSC00381.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/DSC00382.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/DSC00380.jpg

[Mikey S 29 1 Cars]

just a quikie matt, what primer did you use?

[M@tt 77]

it was only wilkinsons grey primer i phoned around a few places for the zinc etch primer stuff but it was £13 a can!! this was £4!

I treated the rusty parts to some kurust the other day then just before i sprayed i went over it all with a knotted wirebrush on a anglegrinder to make everythign all clean. Seems to be ok, but obviously time will tell.

Edited February 17, 2008 by M@tt

[Rippthrough 98]

Decent primer stops you doing the job twice!

 

BH's EtchWeld is superb stuff.

[M@tt 77]

update time

 

first off cleaned up the TD gear box that i swapped with Sutol for my old 1.6 box so it was nice and shiney inside and out

 

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...ne/DSC00385.jpg

 

mounted the Mi16 flywheel and clutch

 

 

and then fitted the box to the engine

 

 

so thats the engine pretty much done

 

however the engine is still not in :S i've been fannying around tidiying up the engine bay still, but it's almost done and i hope to have it finished tomorrow. I finally got round to welding in some patch panels over the chopped out rusty sections on the front panel and seam sealed over them. I've just one more panel to make and then i can respray the engine bay.

 

I've deciede to do it properly so i've invested in £50 quids worth of proper 2 pac primer, paint and laquer so i'll be giving it a blast with the aldi air compressor and spray gun shortly

 

 

 

 

 

[Dan Ingram 1]

I've just got a windy gun from Aldi for 15 whole pounds . Whats the spray gun like? I may have to buy one of those too.

[M@tt 77]

not sure on the spray gun yet Dan not used it. Looks not too bad quality wise

 

Think it'll do the job of an engine bay but wouldn't hold my breathe for main body panels for a fantastic bodyshop finish.

 

Gave the windy gun a go today and seemed just fine

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Be careful using 2 pack, it dries by chemical reaction rather than exposure to air. What this means is that the fine overspray that flies around in the air lands wet, sticks to whatever it has landed on, and then dries.

If this is your wall or other car or whatever then you have a lot of mess to clean up, and its hard going.

If this is your lungs then it is stuck in there forever as your body can't get shut of it.

 

Sheet up well before you spray anything, and get yourself a decent mask.

[M@tt 77]

well i finally got round to start spraying the engine bay of the CTI today, it took a bit of practice to get the compressor levels right but i got there in the end. The little aldi compressor seemed to hold up ok.

 

I got a few little paint runs by being a bit to impatient and trying to do too thick a coat but they will be quite easy to sand out before applying the final coat.

 

 

 

more to follow...

[M@tt 77]

Bit of a overdue update

 

Well i finally managed to make some headway this bank holiday weekend thanks to the fact it didn't piss it down despite what the forecast said.

 

I finally managed to finish spraying the engine back although the colour isn't exactly right (despite giving the paint shop the right code) and finish isn't perfect but it'll do for an engine bay

 

 

The it was a case of dropping the engine and gearbox in, which i managed to do on my own, which wasn't bad going considering its on a gravel drive and on a bit of an incline

 

 

 

Once the engine was in i was able to have a look at where the loom was going to go, i decided to have the ECU on the battery side of the engine so i double backed the loom

 

but i had to relocate the earth leads to a different point on the cylinder head

 

with the loom double backed it allowed me to mount the turbo ignition amp on the original 205 plate in its original location. I made sure i used some thermal compound when putting the amp on

 

the existing metal fuel pipes sat quite high and close to the turbo so i decided to cut them down slightly (with my brakeline pipe cutter) so i could keep the lines away from the heat and with the new rubber fuel hose would allow me to route the lines away from the turbo and to the new 106gti filter which i'm going to locate in the drivers inner wing. I found the mounting bracket for the coil fitted the 106 fuel filter perfectly

 

 

 

well thats pretty much where i've got to today

 

got plenty of head scratching to do with regards to plumbing, and wiring although i'm pretty confident about the wiring (famous last words )

 

one thing i'm a little concerned about is that the turbo heat shield is hitting the steering joint, i haven't mounted my extended bottom mount fork yet but i'm not sure that its gonna push the engine forward enough so that it doesn't touch, i'll have to wait and see, although i 'd be interested to hear if others have come acros this

 

 

right off to read some more turbo projects ........

[M@tt 77]

Tonight i decided to remedy the turbo/heatshield/steering knuckle interference problem which seems to be present on turbo conversions using xm engines with mi16 top mounts.

 

I didn't fancy taking the engine out again so i had a go at sorting it insitu.

 

Following rapidmi's advice, i decided to chop off the turbo heatshield mounting lug and modify the heat shield.

 

I managed to push the engine far enough forward and hold it in place using a large spanner between the gearbox and the subframe. This gave me enough space to get my angle grinder up to the mounting, then using iafine cutting blade i could cut the mount off

 

As you can see from the above pic this then left me with a nice gap between the shield and the turbo. I wanted to keep the heatshield rather than cut a large section of it off so i removed the shield and put several cuts in it which would allow me to bend it round some, closer to the turbo, so clearing the steering knuckle

 

when all fitted back on it gave me around 10mm of clearance

 

finally with the turbo clear of the steering knuckle i could bolt it up to my extended bottom mount which returnofjim kindly welded up for me and check the exhaust/bulkhead clearance.

I need to bolt the flange back onto the manifold and offer up the down pipe to check it properly but it looks ok at the mo

 

thats about it for now.....

Edited June 4, 2008 by M@tt

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

Looking Good!