[engine_work] 2.0 Turbo Cti Project Begins

[M@tt 77]

been a very long time since i did anything on the cti but now that the gti6 conversion is behind me and having built carport to give me somwewhere to work i've turned my attention back to the CTI, just in time for winter

 

i've started looking at plumbing and routing the various pipes. The engine originally cam from a XM and i thought it would be good to try and use as much of th oroginal pipes as possible. The first problem i encountered was around te master cylinder/servo area using the standard xm platic pipe

 

 

the plan at the moment is to fit a servo from a diesel as its smaller so should hopefully give me a bit more clearance and failing that it will then be a case of angling the servo setup sideways or upwards a bit. Servo should be here by the weekend then it'll be a case of suck it and see as to the fitting

 

 

watch this space for further updates

[calvinhorse 870]

top job M@TT!

[Rob Turbo 3]

There's a lug that sticks out the back of the head that the inlet pipe pushes against, cut this off and you can move the pipe closer to the head and it will clear the master cylinder

[M@tt 77]

cheers Rob i'll have a look tomorrow to see if i can spot it

[Rob Turbo 3]

It's in the top photo, between the first 2 head bolts, more or less in line with the turbo outlet, big lump sticking out, just cutting the corner off helps a lot.

[M@tt 77]

ah nice one!

 

 

right the angle grinder will be getting a work out tomorrow

[Rob Turbo 3]

That's the one!

[M@tt 77]

sit a bit closer to the head and away from the master cylinder. I think combined with the diesel servo I’ve got it should give enough clearance. I wasn't able to try the clearance properly as I had sprayed the new servo and it was drying.

 

 

 

I then turned my attention to the intercooler. I've got a 2wd cossie intercooler cheap of eBay which seems to be a good fit between the headlight panels so the first job was to chop off the additional outlet

 

 

I then attempted to weld a washer onto it to blank up the hole but it appears the intercooler is made of alloy as the MIG welding wouldn't take so I’ll have to wait to get my TIG welder working properly before sorting that

 

 

I was then looking at whether it was possible to shorten the intercooler so that the ports on the intercooler would match up perfectly with the throttle body inlet and the pipe from the turbo but looking inside the intercooler I think the core has some sort of blanking on parts of the end of it so I’m not sure if just cutting it shorter and re welding the end section onto it will work

 

 

Regardless of whether I end up shortening it I’m going to re-angle the 45 degree inlet/outlet port on the intercooler so that it’s like the other one at 90 degree to the intercooler so that it will mate up with the other pipe work

 

 

I then trial fitted the intercooler above the radiator but found I needed to remove a couple of the lugs on the intercooler so that it could sit flush on top of the radiator

 

 

With the lugs removed I could get the intercooler and radiator to sit nicely together, only needing to drop the radiator slightly. If needs be I can get a hole saw and stick some holes along the bottom cross member to allow air flow to the bottom portion of the radiator and route the wiring harness usually there onto the bottom of the cross member.

 

 

the other slight issue I might have is the alternator adjuster may impact the radiator but I should be able to shorten the adjuster by re-drilling the mounting hole and removing the excess material, I’ll need a shorter belt as well but this should be easy to get from a motor factors.

 

 

so that’s where I am at the mo

 

Watch this space

Edited October 26, 2008 by M@tt

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

The I/C end tanks are definitely aluminium, it would weigh a ton otherwise. Also forget TIG welding it with a DC machine as it won't work, you need an AC TIG welder, as mine happens to be.

[M@tt 77]

cheers Tom

 

Might need some assitance then in a few minor I/C alterations if your up for it

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Can do, fetch it round on Thursday before the meet if you like?

[M@tt 77]

i got footy before the meet unfortunatly but if i make the necessary alterations and bring it with me prehaps i could call round on friday? i'll pm you

[gazzamec 0]

just noticed where you have your alternator, cant you use a normal 8v one and use the mount that you can see above the alt under the engine mount?

[tom_m 0]

the other slight issue I might have is the alternator adjuster may impact the radiator but I should be able to shorten the adjuster by re-drilling the mounting hole and removing the excess material, I’ll need a shorter belt as well but this should be easy to get from a motor factors.

 

i'm about to do this too, but i must have a shorter belt, because i've got a least an inch of free space i can take off without affecting the alt position, and that will clear the rad easily. no idea what it came off tho, it was just lying around in the workshop.

[M@tt 77]

Tom so you have the same bracket as me?

 

the bracket on mine is the original of the xm engine, the extra bit sticking out of the top of it was to tension the PAS pump iirc

[M@tt 77]

I've done a little bit more

 

even with the new smaller diesel servo i found the master cylinder was still a bit close to the cam cover and turbo pipng so i decided to angle it out the way slightly.

 

I traced the rubber gasket onto some 3mm plywood and cut out a spacer and filed it so that it was sloped.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00073.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00074.jpg

 

even with the pedal box slightly angled it still wasn't sufficient to clear the pipe and because i didn't want to angle it too much for fear of throwing the pedals out of position i created another spacer to go between the servo and the pedal box and this turned out to be sufficient.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00077.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00078.jpg

 

i also knocked up a few simple brackets to support the lowered radiator

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00083.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/meb...TI/SNC00084.jpg

 

The next job is to sort the intercooling ducting, i've got some silicone bends coming, but looking at the standard XM piping i have, there is a takeoff from the standard pipe that goes from throttle body to intercooler which goes to the idle control valve, but if i use 2 silicone bends between the TB and the intercooler i can't see how i'd connect it so i'm thinking i might use an alloy 90 bend and have it welded inplace of the intercooler outlet and them i can weld a 20mm take off onto that for the standard pipe to fit to. or i suppose i could fit it onto the other side of the I/C as i don't think it makes a difference??

Edited November 4, 2008 by cybernck
image filesize too large!

[tom_m 0]

Tom so you have the same bracket as me?

 

the bracket on mine is the original of the xm engine, the extra bit sticking out of the top of it was to tension the PAS pump iirc

 

 

yes mate i do, but i've ground off the PAS tensioner limb.

 

and you can take that idle control air from anywhere, it just needs to bypass the throttle plate, you could put a little filter on it and draw from atmosphere if you wanted

Edited November 5, 2008 by tom_m

[M@tt 77]

cheers tom

 

so the idle feed definitely doesn't need to have "turbo" air because the take off on the stadard setup would be pressurised coming out of the turbo?

[tom_m 0]

cheers tom

 

so the idle feed definitely doesn't need to have "turbo" air because the take off on the stadard setup would be pressurised coming out of the turbo?

 

not at idle it wouldn't, the inlet is in vacuum at idle not pressure, and there is no air flow metering up stream to worry about. just the map sensor, and that taps of the inlet manifold.

 

have you had your IC outlet reangled yet?

[M@tt 77]

isn't the idle control valve controlled by temp though?

 

i thought it was opened when the engine was cold to help cold start/idling but if the car is booted when its cold wouldn't the valve be open?

[M@tt 77]

scrub that, Henry just gave me this useful link

http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/iscv/iscv.htm

 

so as you said, it will only be open when the car is at idle and therefore not under any pressure

[tom_m 0]

so as you said, it will only be open when the car is at idle and therefore not under any pressure

 

actually thats a good point, its probably a good idea to keep it in the boost circuit, in case it leaks boost pressure back past the valve when its on boost

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

My ICV takes air from just after the air filter and seems ok. I think the less pressure you run through them, the longer they will last!

[tom_m 0]

My ICV takes air from just after the air filter and seems ok. I think the less pressure you run through them, the longer they will last!

 

good to know cheers henry!

 

the only reason i was thinking of keeping it was for ghetto anti-slag, jacking it open at idle with 0 degree advance to spool the turbo up

[M@tt 77]

also looking at Jamies S/C GTI 6 you can see that the idle control valve on that just has a small air filter fitted to it directly as you suggested Tom. I think i might go for that option as its certainly a easier option that fabbing another takeoff onto the I/C bend and also means its one less pipe on an engine that already resembles a vipers nest