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acox99

What Have You Done To Your 205 Today?

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Gohn
On 10/27/2022 at 5:06 AM, Simes said:

Went to fix the horn, realised the rear window heater doesn't work either.

Suspect fuseboard is being silly as the F8 to M13 doesn't work.

 

5 hours ago, wicked said:

How do I dismantle a fuse box without breaking stuff?

 

rolf, unplug all of the wires/plugs from your circuit board, remove it from the glovebox and follow the directions in the link below

as mentioned above by SRDT, there's a pretty easy fix for this. its all discussed with what to do and photos to show how at:

 

SRDT's fix has already saved many a circuit board and horn, including mine

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Simes

I replaced the whole fuse board.

took me under an hour.

The replacement board hadn’t been used since 2009.

All good.

I’ll repair the other one now I’ve found that thread. Thanks!

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boldy205

Dropped it off at Interpro to have the new ECU masters ECU set up.

Hopefully she will now have the management to help get the best out of the boosted Gti6!

 

 

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petert
18 minutes ago, boldy205 said:

Dropped it off at Interpro to have the new ECU masters ECU set up.

Hopefully she will now have the management to help get the best out of the boosted Gti6!

 

 

Excellent. Keep us posted. We've just bought two Emtron KV8's. One for my 205 and the other for Parry's supercharged 205. It will be interested to compare notes on setup, features and performance.

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boldy205

So far I'm Very impressed with the ECU. It's the black edition, so has more than enough support my set up. 

Main reason for choosing the Black is that it supports sequential injection. 

Fingers crossed it will be running tomorrow, and I might know a bit more.

Feel free to ask any questions, I'm not massively clued up with this sort of thing. So Amy questions will help my understanding!

 

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boldy205

Sorry, I meant sequential ignition. 

 

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petert

I'm changing Parry's to sequential injection and ignition. The current ecu doesn't support either. It struggles to support the larger injectors  (730cc) bought to support E85 at idle.

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boldy205

So you need bigger injectors to run E85 in comparison to normal unleaded?

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dcc
48 minutes ago, boldy205 said:

So you need bigger injectors to run E85 in comparison to normal unleaded?

E85 is basically 25-30% less 'calorific' than petrol, so to make up for the shortfall you need more of it. I think in very basic terms the reason e85 makes more power then petrol is it burns at a lower temp so you can put more of it in to the mix, I'm pretty sure it also cools the inlet temps on boosted applications.

 

So, if your injectors are maxed out (85%) on petrol, then yes you need bigger injectors to run the same power with e85 (very basic comparison)

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SRDT

The worst case is on very cold starts when you need even more fuel that the 25-30% for regular operation.

Winter "E85" has more than 15% petrol to help with that. On E100 like they have in Brazil you need to either warm the fuel or start the engine with normal unleaded.

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petert

We don’t have winter E85 in Australia. It only varies between 80-85%. It can be hard to start on a cool morning.

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boldy205

Interesting stuff. So if you want to run E85, do you have a second tank, or do people just use the std tank and fill it with E85?

 

Peter: Another note regarding the ECU, this one has the MAP sensor built into the ECU body. Now it will 'see boost' as the MAP sensor is after the charger. Hopefully this will help with driveability and smooth things out a bit 

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SRDT

No need for another tank with E85, that's why there is still 15% or more petrol inside.

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petert

Some fit a flex sensor. The ECU then blends fuel & ignition maps between straight petrol and E85. Most who race just use straight E85.

 

Parry's car has a remote 2 Bar MAP sensor, plumbed to the inlet manifold. I'll keep using that. The KV8 also allows blending between TPS and MAP for fuel load. The engine is 8.4:1 with 275º cams. So it struggles at idle. It will be nice to use a fixed idle injection pulse and then switch to MAP as the boost increases.

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SRDT

If E85 in Australia won't go lower than 80% ethanol then you can try without Flex sensor, in France it can be as low as 65% so you need a sensor unless you want to buy E85 race fuel with constant ethanol.

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AlexRS2782

Nothing too exciting - just changing a couple of P21W bulbs in the rear clusters after the indicator on the driver side went yesterday, so took the opportunity to check / change a couple others.  At least one of them dated back to the mid '90's so that's lasted well before failing.

 

Been about 8 years since i last removed the lenses so decided to give them a bit of a clean up and remove a fair amount of dirt / grub that had built up over the years.

 

Also gave the car a clean to get rid of all the salt spray remnants from having driving on the motorway yesterday.

Edited by AlexRS2782

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Gohn

got sick of replacing the peugeot plastic gearshift knob which just crumbles after a while

 

so managed to get access to a lathe for a few hours and made a few different shaped options out of wood 

(the wood blank was a lump of lumber that came on the pallet with the XUD7TE engine from the UK)

 

few bucks on ebay for a plastic sleeve for the top of the gearstick which I trimmed down a bit lenghtwise and took off the side bits

it slots onto the odd kind of thread on the gearstick and the knob is then drilled out and slots over it for a snug fit

 

its summer here, thought the wood might have split to heck and broken up in the heat but its been very steady

gearknob1.jpg

gearknob2.jpg

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barneys66

Picked up a fresh batch of PS3s and used a couple of them to get 3rd in class at the local autosolo.  Was a rainy old day and rear end was all over the place, so an entertaining struggle with a couple of spins as the day went on..

 

Came at the expense of an indicator though.  Last time I lost a headlight so will have to use the protectors from the targa car from now on.

 

52830522894_aafdf06d7d_b.jpg

 

52829772127_3b1ea53670_b.jpg

 

52830522909_5caeb39054_b.jpg

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Telf

Today I drove my 205 in the rain.

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NOsMAN

Messed around all evening trying to fix the extremely slow wipers. Took out motor and linkages to clean them up and regreased everything. Striped it all down and found the motor looks new inside and everything was  greased and  very clean inside . Checked the earth terminals and they too seem fine. Only thing left to do is get my volt meter to check the power going through it.. It be a job for tomorrow.

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Gohn

replaced a holey LF balljoint boot which I damaged a few weeks ago

 

I've found removing the GTI/TD wishbone balljoints from the hub much harder than the base model balljoints

gotta keep pressure holding the hub in, only then will the balljoint come all the way out

 

 

 

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chris 417 mi

Finally got round to swapping out the stained carpet I had in the 205 for an upgrade I’d bought last year … good excuse for an interior clean aswell :D

 

7CAA0453-DF27-4E01-AA1F-895CB33F8A0E.jpeg

3C795582-63C6-4F95-BF13-956941054921.jpeg

IMG_3592.jpeg

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ScoobyJawa

Sailed through the MOT with no advisories - whoop whoop whoop!!!!

 

but they did confirm my suspicions there’s a slight coolant leak, which I think is from the lower pipe on the drivers side, had it replaced by another garage, turns out are pretty crap so think they did a rubbish job….

Edited by ScoobyJawa

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Arthur

Building a stutbrace. Or is it a cable gland?

 

I have never had one before, but I need somewhere to hide my loom and tidy things up. 80% of my wiring is right there under the beam of the brace so I thought to kill 2 birds with one stone. Took a 40 x 25 u-beam. 

 

352511549_6281024985309908_5521396282345

 

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Telf

I've changed the speedo as the other one was fooked after 269000miles. It ticked like crazy and was just horrible. I'm trying to work out it I can wind the replacement back to read the miles since I rebuilt the car. Using the old speedo as practise...

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