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Oreyt, long time no post, Im currently removing the engine on my 1.9 gti so i can replace the inner wings but i’m wondering if i have to drain the transmission oil or not first? If so will the gearbox be ok without oil for a few months while it’s out the car or will it corrode over time? cheers

I currently have a BE3 gearbox running in my 1600 8v GTi Rally car, Standard box with a 4:5 CWP and a Quaife ATB LSD. But the gearbox is Knackered and I need the car out again quick for the next round of the chamionship, Is there any other box that would fit directly on to my 1600 8v GTI engine with out haveing to modify Bellhousings or linkages ect ect. If so what are the codes and what cars did they come in, I have another BE3 box but it's getting refurbished

I have that gearbox but im not sure to gear ratios? The internet says in this box 3.69 FD (3.46 , 1.85, 1.36 ,1.07, 0.86) If it is correct? ​ my plan in that gearbox put 4.43 FD from 306 s16 box and i have very short box ​ max speed in 5 (7200rpm) is about 205-210 kmh ​ car is 205 GTi6 ... sorry for my bad english ..

Alreet, My gearbox has made driving my 1.9 gti miserable. Crunch in second, can't enage first 80% of the time, same for 3rd and now can't get it into reverse at all. (Even when I put it in second then reverse, that's long been my technique) so i'm going to get the gearbox rebuilt. I wanted it doing anyway so might as well do it now considering I no longer have reverse. Any reccomendations to who would do it? pref in lancashire. Also how much to pay? I'm geusssing at £500-800? I've found this place here: http://www.geartorque.co.uk/ So unless anyone has any decent ideas i'll probably take it there,i've asked for a quote. Thanks for reading.

Over the past couple of weeks I'm beginning to struggle to engage gears, both getting in and out of gear. It seems worse when the car has warmed up. The movement of the gearstick feels fine, so it's just that last push to engage it. I keep adjusting the clutch cable to raise the biting point which helps a bit, but I'll soon run out of thread. I'm not getting any clutch slippage, or funny noises. Could it be the release bearing on the way out or something else? The car is a 205 1.9 GTi with an Mi16 engine, clutch & flywheel with a 1.9 BE1 gearbox.

Hi All, sorry for yet another drive shaft issue related post but I'm still a little surprised that just adding -ve camber with eccentric top mounts could bottom out a 309 shaft that was working fine previously. I'm wondering whether the 3j lsd is designed like a later 306/xsara diff and therefore pushes the n/s shaft further out. Below is a pic of a 205 n/s shaft fitted to my car (306 gti6 gearbox 3j lsd) there's about 7mm of the part of the shaft that the bearing runs on sticking out. That's as far as the shaft goes in - does this look right? It looks like it might be sticking out a bit far to me? Anyone have a 205 box and shaft off the car that they can compare with the above? The seal doesn't leak so it's going in far enough to seal ok, but if the shaft was being held further out of the box on the n/s it would explain the drive shaft plunge vibration issues only showing on the n/s.

Hi, I will hopefully be fitting a satchshift to the 205 this weekend and I believe that entails swapping the gear selector arm. I've done a bit of reading but not found anything conclusive - what's the best way of stopping the selector shaft dropping into the box when removing the arm? I've read somewhere on here that putting it in fifth will stop it dropping, otherwise I thought if there's room a cable tie tightly wrapped around the shaft where it goes into the box might do the job? Thanks.

I attempted to re-seal and bolt up the diff cover on a 1.9 box I have but I just can't get the casing to close all the way (its rocking in the middle like a see-saw, with a 5mm gap)! The bearings seem to sit fine in both the box and cover end, but no matter which way around I mount the crown wheel on the diff it still won't close. If I fit the diff to the box without the crown wheel then the casing will close up fine. I've been told that the diff which came supplied with the box is possibly for a GTi6. Any ideas!?

Hello , I run a standard 1.9 engine with 1.6 gearbox . i like all 4 gears but when it gets to the fifth , its too short. I run my car as my daily driver. I was thinking , Can I take the 5th gear only from this gearbox (BE4) seller says it came out from a Berlingo 2001/2 he can't remember 1.9DIESEL. and swap it with my 5th in the 1.6 Box ? Thanks

I have a GTI6 with a 1.9 gearbox and am going to change the CWP to a 4.4 but I would like to know which gears i would need for a close ratio box as the car is going to be used for rallying. So if people could suggest what gears are best and what box's I can get them from that would be ideal

Hello, I need some help with the 205 gearbox. What kind of seal does it use on the mounting face that goes against the engine? The gearbox oil is leaking pretty bad on my 205 after I replaced it some weeks ago... I took a look and it doesn't have any sign of damage, so I thing the only problem is the seal...

Hi There, I'm in the process of acquiring a replacement gearbox for my 1.6 GTi Rally Car. After doing some research I have concluded that the ratios in a 1.9 GTi box should work pretty well, considering that I have a 4.9 CWP setup to put into the new box. The problem is I am struggling to source a decent donor 1.9 BE3 box, they seem to be rarer that rocking horse poop these days, so I have been doing quite a bit of research into suitable alternatives. I have found that the ratios in a 206 GTi 180 box are almost identical to those in a 1.9 GTi box, therefore I am wondering if this is a suitable alternative bearing in mind that, if my research is correct, the GTi 180 uses a BE4 box. I have a KAAZ diff, and the aforementioned 4.9 CWP, to go into my new box, however I am unsure of the compatibility of a BE4 box with my engine. Various threads on here talk about the differences between BE3 & BE4 boxes, however I've not found anyone using a BE4 box with the 1.6 GTi engine - is this because it can't be done? If anyone can give me some information as to whether this could be done I would greatly appreciate it. Many Thanks. Dave.

I have had trouble getting my car in gear recently and yesterday was close to impossible so had a quick look underneath as a while ago i had the very same problem and it turned out to be most of the gearbox to engine bolts were loose anyway to my horror discovered gearbox oil seeping out fast from the offside speedo drive/driveshaft seal. Ive bought a pair on ebay from neat autos at 2:30pm and they dropped through the letterbox today at 11am well chuffed. So have started working underneath the car and noticed a small gap between the gearbox and block underneath and soon after discovered the bottom bolt at the rear was missing the one at the top rear had fallen out but thankfully was sat on the box still and the top front one was about 10mm hanging out the hole so have replaced them all. Right my boggle is this, the gunk that came out the driveshaft seal was jet black so have drained the lot from the final drive drain plug. The old seals were perfect and i soon realised that because the engine and box had parted it had pulled the offside shaft out of its seal a touch hence the leak. Not really a problem as im replacing almost everything rubber engine wise on it before the s*it weather comes anyway and ive done both sides now. The haynes manual says the box uses 10/40 motor oil pre 1988 wihch mine is and this is what ive used. Now after finishing the job ive read the chapter 13 supplement and it says the box uses 75w/80 gear oil from august 1987 and my car was registered august 16 1987 thanks haynes lol. So, will this be ok? Another boggle is although it says the box takes 2 litres, does this include the final drive oil area too as ive put in over 4 litres and it still didnt dribble back out the filler plug. What do you think guys?