[engine_work] Project Six Pack

[welshpug 1,621]

have you rung compbrake to moan about their £10 postage on everything yet?

[Galifrey 1]

have you rung compbrake to moan about their £10 postage on everything yet?

 

Looking good!

 

Bet you can't wait to give it a blast... I guess traction and torque is going to be an issue

[thirdtimelucky 3]

I keep starting it up just to stand round the back and listen to it burble, I forgot how good it sounds

 

Very jealous, cant wait to get mine started.

 

Bet you cant wait to show up some more confused looking Z4 drivers.

Edited September 23, 2009 by thirdtimelucky

[swordfish210 20]

Very nice George, i'd love to have a look at this in the flesh sometime

 

 

 

and a passenger ride as well

[Goliath 94]

have you rung compbrake to moan about their £10 postage on everything yet?

 

Nope

 

Looking good!

 

Bet you can't wait to give it a blast... I guess traction and torque is going to be an issue

 

Yeh once I have it on the road I will probably drive around aimlessly for the first day just clocking up (s)miles! Torque is never an issue it just makes it more fun

 

Very jealous, cant wait to get mine started.

 

Bet you cant wait to show up some more confused looking Z4 drivers.

 

That was awesome, good times Can't wait to show some people up, it should look even more stock this time with only a little bit of the 'shed' look to it

 

 

Very nice George, i'd love to have a look at this in the flesh sometime

 

 

 

and a passenger ride as well

 

Your more then welcome to have a gander, should be making an appearance at meets/trackdays soon.

 

I think I should start charging peeps for passenger laps round combe like gwynnspeed were doing at rally day

Edited September 23, 2009 by Goliath

[Galifrey 1]

Yeh once I have it on the road I will probably drive around aimlessly for the first day just clocking up (s)miles! Torque is never an issue it just makes it more fun

 

 

Hop down the m'way to Bristol

 

[dcc 855]

Does it leak yet? or have you not driven it 50 meters to find out?

 

lol!

 

I hope you are not still using that water hope between the 2 exhausts! Might pop up for a perv soon, you can have a good old gander at what i bring up too

[welshpug 1,621]

oi Danielson where has you been hiding

 

he can't drive it anywhere yet as he hasn't got round to ringing compbrake to have a moan about their £10 postage on a £9 spring pan

[marksorrento205 80]

Looking good George!! As for the lack of space for a rad, I have heard that pug1off (I think) have mounted there rad under the boot floor in a v6 conversion thay have done on an orange car. Opinions all on this idea??

[Goliath 94]

Looking good George!! As for the lack of space for a rad, I have heard that pug1off (I think) have mounted there rad under the boot floor in a v6 conversion thay have done on an orange car. Opinions all on this idea??

 

 

It's sh1t

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have seen their orange one a few times (which is no longer theirs, sold on ebay for £6k) and don't like the way they have done the conversion, especially not the rad. I don't see how it can get any sort of decent cooling back there, increases the water mass and just makes it way more awkward I reckon.

Rad should always be up front unless you have side vents

[marksorrento205 80]

It's sh1t

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have seen their orange one a few times (which is no longer theirs, sold on ebay for £6k) and don't like the way they have done the conversion, especially not the rad. I don't see how it can get any sort of decent cooling back there, increases the water mass and just makes it way more awkward I reckon.

Rad should always be up front unless you have side vents

 

That was my thoughts but I thought I would bat it around. I was unsure if the rad would work as it should being led down. Mines fitting up front where it should

[taylorspug 7]

Its ok in the back, but you need to positively direct the air into the radiator and then duct the hot air back out again. The bloke i share my workshop with has a rear mounted rad in his Cally turbo Nova saloon. Hes basically cut the boot floor out to duct into it, then chopped the rear numberplate panel to duct the hot air out. Only thing he/we have had to do is sort the bleed points for the system out properly and run a proper electronic fan controller. Works spot on.

[rubyna 4 1 Cars]

Its ok in the back, but you need to positively direct the air into the radiator and then duct the hot air back out again. The bloke i share my workshop with has a rear mounted rad in his Cally turbo Nova saloon. Hes basically cut the boot floor out to duct into it, then chopped the rear numberplate panel to duct the hot air out. Only thing he/we have had to do is sort the bleed points for the system out properly and run a proper electronic fan controller. Works spot on.

 

Was just going to mention that setup i saw at yours, awesome machine!!!

Luke..

[maxi 36 1 Cars]

It's sh1t

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have seen their orange one a few times (which is no longer theirs, sold on ebay for £6k) and don't like the way they have done the conversion, especially not the rad. I don't see how it can get any sort of decent cooling back there, increases the water mass and just makes it way more awkward I reckon.

Rad should always be up front unless you have side vents

 

 

Judging by your previous efforts I dont think you have any place to be slating whats "s*it" and what isnt. Wasnt it you who was pulling well in excess of 3 figures with a load of subframe bolts missing on a public road? All credit to you for reshelling and trying to sort the scrapheap challenge V6 out but as far as Pug1off is concerned, wind your neck in. There work is top notch, in fact I would go as far to say as I would be happy to spend money with them. Also, what is the big problem with more coolant in the system, surely this would be an advantage....... I dont want to upset you but I feel what you have posted is wrong. Just like using an old table leg as an engine mount.

 

Maxi

Edited September 24, 2009 by maxi

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I never liked that set up either, But if done right it should work OK. Knowing how bad the V6 needs a good rad to keep temps down, One reason why even rear engine'd car's have rads up front

[Goliath 94]

It was meant as slightly tongue in cheek and I was meaning (as I should have explained) about its cooling capabilities, I have spoken to Lucy about it and she said that it 'wasn't that great at cooling' and that 'the fans are on most of the time'.

 

As for mine, thats exactly why I am doing all this because I realise that the original build was substandard due to it being thrown together in a short space of time with limited funds, we managed ok though.

 

I never said pug1off were s*it, I am impressed with a lot of what they have built, I was purely referring to their Rad setup which I had been led to believe wasn't very good. It appears though that if done properly it can cool sufficiently!

 

 

Taylorspug: How does he run his coolant pipes? Are they run through the cabin or underneath?

 

Cheers

 

Edit: I agree their work is good, when I first looked into doing the V6 conversion and thought about having a company do the conversion for me it was pug1off I went to and got quotes etc from.

 

I have had a think about why it would be a problem to have more coolant in the system but can't come up with a reasonable answer, I guess it's just something I assumed without really looking into why....

 

Have you seen my shiny new engine mount? 'tis much nicer then a table leg

Edited September 24, 2009 by Goliath

[taylorspug 7]

He runs his coolant pipes underneath the car along the exhaust tunnel, and for the most part they are ally pipes all heat lagged to stop any heat transfer from the exhaust (which is a side exit job so doesnt interfere with the pipes that much). Bear in mind too that the car is on 13in minilites, and you can barely get a fag packet under the chassis rails, and it all works well so far.

 

For his car i would have personally run the pipes through the sills to protect them, and then up through the inner arch into the boot. But for a only moderately low 205 just running them along the chassis legs would be good enough id say. Alot of room in the back of a 205 for a rear rad too...

[Goliath 94]

Made some more progress over the past few days/weeks...

 

 

Just about got all the cooling sorted, the pipes are done and the engine has been run upto temp with no problems. Just waiting on some 10" slimline fans for the rad then it's all done.

 

Managed to get the bonnet to close using the normal bonnet catch, no need for bonnet pins = more like a sleeper

 

I have also fitted the better front suspensio

n, Grp A Bilstein coilovers with 240lb 9" springs (I may well need to upgrade the springs, but trial and error is how I will tackle it). Also fitted the compbrake solid adjustable top mounts, they were a bit of a pain to fit as I had to oval out the 3 mounting holes to get them lined up right. I have fitted them so the top of the strut is as far back and as far in as possible, I may find that I have too much camber though as I am running 309 wishbones too.

 

Also fitted some brake pipes from Miles ready for the Brembo's after I get the 288mm disc's tomorrow.

 

 

 

[Bonzai 2]

Good work George!

[SurGie 54]

In SurGie's defence, I think he's referring to it lagging if you are accelerating. Even if it is updating once every second, at a high rate of acceleration it will inevitably be lagging behind. At a constant speed it will obviously be accurate.

 

 

 

Off topic,

 

After searching through my recent posts, i forgot about this point about sat navs not being accurate, so i thought id test it to see

how accurate it actually is.

 

Well after being in a new Mini recently on a drive, driving at a steady speed, i put the speedo on digital to test my Tom Tom sat nav speed accuracy and

the speed was never lower than 2 mph of the actual speed, so the Tom Tom was 2 mph under the new Mini digital speedo minimum and other times

was 4mph out at the most.

 

So i don't know how members think they are accurate, yes they are good enough if you have a non working speedo

but after my test, they are not accurate, so be careful around speed cameras people

 

EDIT>

Its a German car so i doubt that very much that it is out, iv driven past speed camera's at around 31/32 mph and no flash, as well as police

vans, so they must be inaccurate as well, i don't think so tbh.

What is it about people thinking they are so great ? The satellite takes time to get to the sat nav, the weather can also give it trouble, the car does

not have these problems at all, and by legal requirements has to be accurate for road safety, not like the sat nav has to be by law, well a lot more than 2/4 mph like the sat nav misses out on accuracy.

Id like you to prove that cars are inaccurate by 10% or so, if you can, and cars do not lag on accelerating either, another inaccuracy for sat navs.

There would be loads of drivers getting caught speeding if speedos are out by 10%, surely.

 

 

Rant over..

Edited October 29, 2009 by SurGie

[Goliath 94]

Straying from the topic slightly!

 

I think you have inadvertantly proved everyone else's point instead of the argument you were putting across. The fact that your satnav was reading 2-4mph lower then your mini's speedo is what the other members were trying to say, it is infact your mini's speedo that is inaccurate rather then the sat nav.

 

I have a brand new focus and the mechanical speedo over reads by 10%! The digital speedo setting on your mini does not make it any more accurate as far as I know, the signal that is feeding the digital readout will be coming from the same source as the feed for the mechanical speedo.

 

Anyway, this has little relevance to the actual topic and I doubt we will all end up agreeing so I'm sure it can be dropped now!

[Galifrey 1]

Well so everyone knows, quality sat navs have inertial sensors that are highly accurate (to within mm's) so that can map where you go when the gps signal is lost.

 

So a tomtom 720 (which uses intertial sensors) will be far more accurate speed wise than a vehicle speedo. A vehicle speedo will over-read by about 10% digital or analogue.

[welshpug 1,621]

ave ya fixed it yet George?

 

 

 

 

Its a German car so i doubt that very much that it is out

 

ROFL! built in Swindon, with a part French drivetrain...

 

driven past speed camera's at around 31/32 mph and no flash, as well as police

vans

 

yes, you may well have done, you can do 34/35 past most of them (on your pratnav) without any issues.

[dcc 855]

you really will struggle to find a mechanical/electronical speedo which is factory fitted to a consumer end market (5-30k) which will be as accurate as a tomtom/nav man or any type of gps geometry. Does your speedo in your car take into account tyre pressures? - This is relevant to the fact of the circumference of the tyre incontact with the road. I think not, as a fact, it can only tell to an extent the velocity of which the driveshafts are moving. ofcourse this is not true for all cars as I have no F*cking idea what cars have started to use GPS software to (stealing the words from your mouth) 'predict' the speed by guessing how far the car has travelled in a given time period.

 

Surgie - as interesting as your argument sounds, it is flawed and somewhat incorrect. Why do you think they use speed measuring devices which costs ££££££'s to check for example the land speed record or even testing the top speed of a car, and not just look at the dials infront of the driver?

[Tesstuff 222]

SurGie 'gold' is back

 

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