[Car_Restoration] My 1989 205 1.9 Gti Restoration Project

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Ashley, that's a good idea, have discovered that it's proper fixing is by a "P"clip fixed to the bottom of the bracket that supports the water hoses, so it's behind the heat shield.

 

Was also thinking about running it in a length of stainless tube, but not sure how that would look.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Engine in and running, initially it was very noisy/cluncky, so stopped it straight away, traced cause down to the cam belt tensioner, was not doing it's job and the cam belt had jumped (out by 4 notches on belt ), sorted it out and just hope that no damage has been done.

 

Engine starts and runs well but I can't get the revs down from 2500 rpm and the choke light on the dash is permanently on, have cut the air supply to the sad without any effect, any ideas??

 

Also fan doesn't cut in but works if the test plug is shorted, I am assuming this is the rad fan switch in the rad as I have a new coolant temp.sensor.

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Choke light, there should be two yellow wires under the dash in the vicinity of the choke blank, they look like earths, but if they are plugged into an earth block the choke light will be on all the time as you say.

 

Idling, has to be an air leak somewhere, check the connection on the bottom of the inlet, also check the oil filler tower bolt as the hole goes right through.

 

Rad fan, sounds like the rad fan switch is U/S assuming the water temp is getting hot enough?

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

thanks Tom.

 

Where is the best place to get a rad switch? is OEM best or just good make.

 

As for water temp, it gets way too hot to touch but the gauge does not move more than 1 section. I have a new coolant temp sensor, could I have bought the wrong one or is there only one??

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

I have always used an aftermarket rad switch, intermotor or similar. Standard has a red band around it to identify the switching points. There are various other choices but the standard one has always worked Ok for me.

 

But is it getting hot enough? Could you get a thermometer in the header tank to see how hot its getting maybe? If its just sat there idling it takes a LONG time to get hot enough for the rad fan to cut in.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

I had a problem starting it for a while, but it seemed to fix it self once I put some more fuel in....

 

idling problem was the idle screw, was quite a long way out and once it was screwed all the way home idle is (albeit a bit lumpy) around 1100 -1400

 

Fan never cut in all day, I let it get as hot as I dare, new Valeo switch ordered.

 

just to round off an otherwise trying day, have noticed a small water leak through a weld in the red...oh the joys of restoration

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

As it's a year to the day I first acquired the 205 I thought it appropriate to do and update on the projects first birthday.

 

all the photos for this update are here http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/mrfirepro/slideshow/205%20projects/29%20sept%2014

 

Having now sorted the oil leaks on the third engine I hope this is the last time it will be put in.

 

here are some shots of the final engine

 

new OPG and switch

 

 

got a brand new SAD from another forum member

 

 

 

Farmer managed to get me a brand new dip stick guide

 

 

new PAS pump and alternator

 

 

and due to previous experience brand new oil pipes (Farmer again )

 

 

and hopefully the very last time I will ever see this....

 

 

unfortunately whilst sorting the engine oil leak I noticed a small drip of brake fluid from the drivers side brake caliper, on closer inspection the hose and come lose due to some stripped threads, this resulted in having to refurbish a spare caliper and replace.

 

new (non leaking) caliper now in place

 

 

next on the list was new drive shafts, to be honest it was a job I wasn't looking forward to as I'de never got this far before, it turned out uneventful and straight forward

 

new drive shafts

 

 

fitted

 

 

 

 

was a little concerned about the split pin, is this correct fitting

 

 

next on the list was getting the cooling sorted, the the oil heat exchanger coolant pipe had seen better days, however farmer to the rescue again and managed to secure this little gem.

 

 

fitted

 

 

whilst the dash was out decided to do the heater fan resistor mod, this was inspired by this thread http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=160966&do=findComment&comment=1432174

 

 

also another mod inspired by Craig's build thread and covers provided by Craig (thanks Craig.. )

 

drivers side

 

 

passengers side

 

 

the white ones are this mod the black ones were (also provided by Craig) done some time ago.

 

then it was on to the rad installation so the car could be started and ran.

 

new rad installation

 

 

new rad clips (guess who supplied these...)

 

 

rad finally installed

 

 

and then guess what......so after oil leaks, brake fluid leaks, I managed to complete the full set of all fluids with a water leak through one of the welds.......

 

Anyway am putting up with the coolant leak so that I can continue to run the engine (until I can get a new rad). Still a lot of work to do and there are a myriad of electrical problems, cooling fan not working and the small matter of sorting out the interior and making sure all is watertight. I hope I wont being doing a second birthday post.

 

will update in another couple of weeks, when I hope that everything will be completed except the interior........fingers crossed, no more leaks

 

 

 

 

[farmer 327 1 Cars]

Looks really good Paul, the time and effort will pay off in the end.

[ATK 137 1 Cars]

This is gonna be insanely good when finished, nice work Paul

[Kane 34]

Looking great Paul! Turned out my leak was coming from the oil gallery plugs also, so you're not the only one to forget

 

Just out of interest did you have to press in the tapered oil plug thing located next to the oil gallery plug on the flywheel end? Mine doesn't look too have been moved but can't be sure.

 

I also had a slightly squeaky bum moment at the weekend, tightened up one of the sump bolts and bang! The casting of the block blew up as the bolt tightened down on an old bit of sealant that was stuck down the hole. On inspection it looks to have only damaged the base of the bolt hole casting and not the main wall off the block, fingers crossed there isn't any critical damage.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Thanks for your kind words, I know it sounds a bit soppy or as Tom would say "Soft Southener" but the results are the combined effort and knowledge of the folk on here, without them I would have chucked in the towel ages ago.

 

Kane - What are the chances of us both making the same mistake, you've made me feel a lot better.. , I didn't medal with the core plugs, as you say they looked alright. when will you know if it's foooked....

[Kane 34]

Ha ha knowing someone else made the same stupid mistake as yourself takes the embarrassment away, well at least a little I'll just leave the plugs where they are then.

 

I'll only really know when it's all back in and running I guess. From looking at it it looks to have blown out the way (weakest point) and left the inner block wall in tact. Surely my luck can't be that bad...

 

Worse comes to worst and it has gone right through I think I'll get a tube of liquid metal and see if that works. Here's hoping that's not the case

[welshpug 1,622]

The driveshaft r clip is correct but I guess you used the nut that came with the bearing kit which isnt, the bearings are shared with the clio peugeot used a plain nut and a castellated cover which is why the r clip looks a bit stretched.

 

will post a pic later for you.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Thanks WP the nuts came with the shafts, but I do have some new castellated covers, I guess these came with the bearings. I think there are also standard nuts, I'll see if I can dig them out.

 

Pictures would be good.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Just getting round to finishing some of the little jobs that have been forgotten during the build.

 

One such job is to bung up the hole in the floor pan that has been left when the acid removed the seam sealer. Here is the hole (center of picture) as it left the factory.

 

 

Am unsure if there was some sort of bung that was sealed in with seam sealer or was the hole just filled with sealer, any advice much appreciated.

 

 

[Darrens205GTI 9]

Paul,

 

This thread has been an inspiration for my own rebuild, it is looking far better than factory finish. I am expecting my baby out of the sprayers within the next 4 to 6 weeks then my fun begins. I don't think I have the patience to go to the lengths you have to make it the best on the road but I now have a bench mark for each job to aim for.

 

I think your comment about the people on here helping you and keeping you going is so true, every issue you have come across someone on here has seen and they are not selfish in any way and make sure they share that experience to keep you moving in the right direction.

 

Can't wait to see her on the road, I'm only another 2 junctions down the M20 if you fancy giving it long run in.

 

Thanks very much

Darren

[welshpug 1,622]

the hole would have had a metal or plastic disc bonded in place with seam sealer.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

WP - Thanks will get a disk made up

 

Darren - thanks for you kind comments, feel free to pop in any time, Pm me and I'll drop you my address.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Just sorting out a few electrical issues and just wanted to check I am barking up the right tree.....

 

1. Rad fan - new resistor and new switch (87-92 I think) still fan only operates at one speed, when I short the test point I only get fan full speed, second position doesn't work, going to do a point to point wiring check over the weekend but any pointers/advice welcome

 

2. Oil temp. Gauge - When the ignition is turned on the warning light does not come on, and the needle only moves 75% towards the first marker/segment, when I leave it running for 25-30 mins it only rises to the second segment- Are these all normal?

 

3. Oil pressure gauge - Tested oil pressure during build achieved 50 psi with calibrated Snap-on gauge, dash gauge starts at 2 segments when cold and drops to 1 segment when hot, is this usual? (new oil pressure sender and switch fitted)

[welshpug 1,622]

oil temp, they never warm up much sat idling, go for a drive.

 

205 oil pressure dials vary massively but most healthy engines IME will show right at the top on cold start and above 4k RPM.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

I have dreams about driving it, but every time I'm near something goes horribly wrong....

 

Just been thinking about the Pressure Switch, I bought it from a member on here and had assumed it to be the right part. maybe it's not the right one....

 

This is the one I fitted, have done a search on the part number and come up with a big fat zero

 

[jackherer 543]

There is no oil temp warning light, just the gauge.

[Weser 30]

With the fan problem I take it you mean the fan only works at the fast speed?

 

Edit just re-read you only get full speed. From what I can establish the switch runs power through the resistor for the low speed at lower Temps and at higher Temps direct to the fan to get full speed.

 

Should be easy enough to trace hopefully? Hopefully its not a new part.

Edited October 16, 2014 by Weser

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Andy,

 

Been looking at the schematic and your correct so should be easy to find, I'm guessing it will be a connector not making properly as all the parts are already new.

 

Also I am now pretty sure the oil pressure sender is the wrong one....anbother part for my "new parts wrongly ordered bin"..

Edited October 16, 2014 by mrfirepro

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Slow speed fan sorted - Wire from resistor to fan was broken, was surprised by how hot the resistor gets (too hot to touch) is this usual?

 

Couple of questions...

 

1. Rad fixings - The rad is held at the bottom by the fan cowl and some spring clips at the top. The spring clips seem to be of no use at all and the fan has a lot of movement in it. How else is the rad secured?

 

2. Rad fan connector - The connector on the wires from the rad fan has a captive fixing, where does this this fix to?

 

3. Fan resistor - Where do this fix to?

 

Following a recent thread about AFM refurbishement I decided to give (ATP???) the supplier a call, unfortunately they are not doing the AFM's any more, does anyone know of any other suppliers?