[race_prep] Guernsey Hillclimb 205 Build

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I think the HiSpec calipers and some std discs will do for now, might save a little weight and also should set me back say £500-600 then i can always move to the 2 piece disc set later on with no changes requried

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

Holidaying in Guernsey so got to meet Simon and see the beast in the flesh yesterday... many thanks, Si, was a cracking day! Even offered me a drive in it, gawd you're a trusting bunch out here ;-) watched some sand racing, popped a few beers on this beautiful island... not a bad day at all!

 

Car is nice little beast, spins up lovely for an 8 valve ;-) ;-) ;-)

 

Hope you sort the brakes Si... thanks again for your hospitality...

 

Cheers,

Dan

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Thanks Dan, great to meet up and chat with someone who understands 205's at this level (the wife just isn't interested and my 4 month old just smiles and blows bubbles at me)

 

You have chosen a great 2 weeks to be over with the weather as its a paradise island when hot and dry but a bore when wet......

 

Don't forget the West Show is on today and tomorrow (Wed & Thurs) if you want directions just drop me an email but its down L'Eree Aerodrome and has lots going on over the 2 days

 

Got some measurements to do for the brakes then getting an order on the go so watch this space

 

Also just ordered a longer 5th gear for the Dogbox, 99mph just wasn't going to cut it!!

 

Have a great remainder of your holiday and anyone else wanting to come over please drop me a PM (cant promise an offer of a drive in the 205 though, depends if you appear to be a tool or not (Dan you got an offer as you seemed a very genuine character))

 

Simon

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

If sick and tired of these damn Bendix rear calipers......

 

Had one side off completely last night to rebuild with the correct Red Grease, put it back on and without bleeding yet it i can already tell it's still not releasing properly and so binding on the disc.

 

I must say the crap skip brown camber caster stub axles i have on don't help at all and cause the discs to bind more on certain points as you spin the wheel, i am very tempted to buy a new set as mine have probably had their day now or just go back to standard......

 

At the moment i am racing with all brake binding so i might as well go up the hill with my foot resting on the brake pedal

[Anthony 1,000]

Sounds like something is amiss.

 

The SBC camber kits aren't perfect, but even if there is disk and caliper misalignment, the binding should be constant throughout the entire rotation of the disk. If you're saying that it's binding differing amounts as the disk rotates, then that suggests that the disk isn't running true for whatever reason - failed wheel bearing, hub face not true, hub face not clean, or a warped disk..

 

Same goes with the caliper - generally they're pretty reliable in my experience, and if yours is binding even without brake fluid in it, then it's either knackered or there's something else wrong, be it seized sliders, the handbrake being over-adjusted, or that you didn't wind the piston in far enough to begin with.

 

Certainly given what you've said previously about the brakes dragging so much that the car won't roll, then there's something quite wrong.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Get some rear arms machined by Bridgecraft to your desired camber, they also machine the mounting face for the rear caliper meaning it will all sit true and aligned hence no problems with brakes dragging.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ah yes this is true, i have some spare rear discs so ill stick them on and see if it makes a difference, that will tell me if its the disc or not, maybe ill get them skimmed too so i know they are true and ill clean the hub face too while they off.....

 

DOING MY HEAD IN

[brumster 135 1 Cars]

All good points, plus the one I talked about in person in the land of sun, opportunity and 35mph speed limits.... which I'll repeat here for the benefit of others.

 

I've had in the past investigated a sticking rear caliper that was binding, failing to release. I swapped for a spare caliper but no improvement there. Initial thought was the stub pin, which was swapped out, but matters did not improve. I found that loosening the two caliper slider bolts to allow a degree of "wiggle" on the sliders freed the caliper up significantly. Our (Andy Baker and I) summation was that the bolts were not parallel, probably more likely that the backing plate (bearing retainer, or whatever you call it) they screw into was squiff but we ordered two new bolts while we were at it. I swapped the backing plate and the bolts, and the problem went away.

 

Stub pin probably the most likely candidate though

Edited August 21, 2013 by brumster

[jackherer 543]

I've seen exactly what brumster describes before, the caliper bound up when the bolts were fully tightened. A few months earlier a pad had been spat out at low speed and we had refitted it with a new fitting kit and lockwire and thought nothing of it. It turns out the pad that was spat out had caught inside the wheel rim and slightly bent the caiiper mounting lugs on the backing plate on the rear arm!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I think if i throw on those other discs first

 

It could be the caliper because when i re-fitted it it was nice and free but then i pressed in the handbrake mechanism to fit the cable and its started binding, but the cable itself is very loose so its not over tight its just the piston hasn't returned as much as it should but the fact its not binding the whole way round the disk tell me its either the disc being warped or the face not being clean (hopefully not the bearing broken)

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

So in the garage until 11pm last night, threw on a spare disc and still the same, binding for part of the disc, so i slackened off the SBC stub axle bolt and proceeded to slowly turn the axle thus changing the camber/toe of the hub, managed to get it so it was only just running on a small section of the disc but still its rubbing and not completely free

 

Repeated the other side (and also rebuilt that caliper with proper grease) and again still rubbed slightly on part of the disc

 

Not really sure which step to take next,

 

Remove SBC axles and replace with std

Get new backing plates

Buy new hubs with new bearings in

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Get some rear arms machined by Bridgecraft to your desired camber, they also machine the mounting face for the rear caliper meaning it will all sit true and aligned hence no problems with brakes dragging.

 

 

 

Not really sure which step to take next,

 

 

COUGH!!!!

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Haha sorry Tom forgot about that option, so what exactly do they do and what sort of cost are we talking here?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

They put the arms in a jig and machine out the stub axle bore at an angle to suit your camber requirements. Then face off the caliper mount face to the same angle. Then make a new stub axle with a step in it so your original wheel bearings still fit, and the stub axle is a press fit into the trailing arm stub axle bore.

So all your bits will fit back as before, and the brake disc will correctly line up with the caliper.

As for cost you would need to contact Bridgecraft via Allanallen on here.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Ooh ill get on to that, it would have to be a winter upgrade though as i would need to remove my arms and send them off thus disabling the car for a time!!

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

If you have a chat with Al he may well be able to supply you a donor pair of arms which will save you from disabling your car and also will save you posting them over to begin with.

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Hmm BMTR and Avon both said to run the A15 Crossplys at -0.5deg camber optimal, now looking at the 205 standard spec the rear camper is already at -0.5deg give or take 0.3.

 

might be best allround to just stick some standard axles back in......

[welshpug 1,627]

sounds like it! the arms are not currently modified at all are they?

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

No the arms are standard

[welshpug 1,627]

easy job then

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

Is there any need for uprated stub axles, just looking on eBay and there's GpN or other motorsport, cant really see the need for hillclimbing, maybe so for rallying with the higher possibility of clouting the rear wheel

[welshpug 1,627]

exactly that IMO.

 

I've looked after several rally cars and they all run standard, however none are gravel cars nor do any of them tend to take massive cuts and the like, they'd rather keep a corner on the car and the wheels round!

 

also, buying direct from pug sport france is significantly cheaper...

Edited August 22, 2013 by welshpug

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

I have never bought from them, forgive my ignorance, how do you go about it? (im crap at french )

[welshpug 1,627]

I just mentioned it, as you see many of the uk motorsport "specialists" selling stub pins for £50 a piece, when PS france sell them at 15 euros or so

[wardy18 33 1 Cars]

http://www.peugeotsport-store.com/category.php?id_category=260

 

Is this the site your on about?

 

If so cant find stub axles?