[trackday_prep] Cameron's Mi16 / Gti6 Hybrid

[Baz 421]

Newman PH4s on order.

 

Full retail??

[Cameron 16]

Full retail - £350 for the set. Why, can you get cheaper?

 

PH4s are ok with standard springs and followers as long as you rev 7.5k maximum, which is fine for me!

 

PEUT280/440 PH4 Tarmac Rally Sprint Cam

Power band: 3000 - 7500 rpm

Duration: In - 280, Ex - 280

Lift: In - 11.17, Ex - 10.66

Full lift: 108 deg ATDC

 

Nothing for lift @ TDC though.

 

All taken from here!

[welshpug 1,626]

£295 on a group buy on 306gti6.com

 

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...1770&page=1

[Baz 421]

Full retail - £350 for the set. Why, can you get cheaper?

 

Of course... You should know that by now!!

[Cameron 16]

Balls. Never mind, its too late now.

[taylorspug 7]

Full retail - £350 for the set. Why, can you get cheaper?

 

PH4s are ok with standard springs and followers as long as you rev 7.5k maximum, which is fine for me!

 

PEUT280/440 PH4 Tarmac Rally Sprint Cam

Power band: 3000 - 7500 rpm

Duration: In - 280, Ex - 280

Lift: In - 11.17, Ex - 10.66

Full lift: 108 deg ATDC

 

Nothing for lift @ TDC though.

 

All taken from here!

 

Yeah ive got all that info too, just wanted a lift at TDC figure which obviously is the important one for ensuring they are going to fit! Id also decided 7.5k was an acceptable rev figure aswell!

 

 

£295 on a group buy on 306gti6.com

 

http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.ph...1770&page=1

 

Except you need 5 of each type to get the price, which wasnt really going to happen. Plus the bloke seems insistent on reccomending PH3s when there isnt one listed for the GTI6 engine. Seemed like a right f*ck about so i personally gave it the elbow.

[Cameron 16]

Update.

Done a little more today, firstly I went in to work so I could get my sump welded up. The story behind this is.. I got a bit happy with the angle grinder removing all the excess mounts (AC etc) from it, and ended up with 2 big holes in it.

So anyway, got a couple of bits of 3mm Ally to fit and then welded them in place. Gave it a quick session in the vapour blaster afterwards to clean it up, it does a bloody good job!

 

Sump all sorted.

 

I gave it a quick coat of paint and then went off to Peugeot to get the bits I needed to put the sump back on. Fitted new no.1 main cap seals, new crank seals front and rear, and then got the sump on.

 

 

I also got a bit carried away in the Snap-on van on Wednesday and ended up buying this bad-boy!

 

 

Saw it and wanted it, was umming and erring for a bit and then the lady mentioned monthly payments.. evil temptress!

 

So I turned my attention to the cams, and whipped them out.

 

 

Ready to fit these!

 

 

Very pleased with the service from Newman, I ordered them on Tuesday and he managed to grind them and post them to me by Friday.

 

So while its apart I'm going to clean and paint the cam carriers and covers as they're a bit manky, then will get to fitting the new ones tomorrow. I need to give him a call and find out the TDC lift figures as the info I have only gives the angle of full lift and this might be a bit tricky to sort out with a 16V. Anywho, I'm hoping to have the engine back in next week!

Edited April 18, 2009 by Cameron

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Be very very careful on first start up with these cams, if you let the engine idle then you will turn them into zero lift cams in no time.

[Cameron 16]

Ah, really? I don't actually know the procedure for running in cams, so I'd be grateful if you were to enlighten me.

The cams didn't come with any lube, so I'll have to get hold of some of that before I build it back up.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Ah, really? I don't actually know the procedure for running in cams, so I'd be grateful if you were to enlighten me.

The cams didn't come with any lube, so I'll have to get hold of some of that before I build it back up.

 

It's generally accepted - apart from the assembly grease being used - you run the engine with cheap and cheerful sh1te first, NOT allowing it to idle but holding the car at 2,000rpm for 10-20minutes.

 

After that, it should be driving it up to 3,500rpm and then letting it run down again at its own speed.

 

This is a summary of what I was advised by QEP, and when it was talked about in my project thread was generally agreed with.

 

Naturally, you dump the crud oil after no more than 500miles, and put in the best you can afford; which may mean monthly payments with Mobil 1.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Basically as Sarty says, hold it at 2000-2500 for the first 30min is what I do. DO NOT under any circumstances let it idle. If you need to stop it to check oil/water/whatever turn it off. As soon as it fires up, get it straight back up to 2000-2500rpm.

 

Until the cams have bedded into the lifters they can "microweld" together under high load (e.g. at low revs) which will then rip lumps out of the cam/followers. I've a close mate who would never use Newman cams again because of problems in this area, but they are still going and sell lots of cams so I guess they have sorted this problem out now.

[Cameron 16]

Thanks guys, I know that you need to bed in new cams but have never been sure on the correct procedure so thanks for clearing that up.

I'll get some cheapo halfrauds crud in there then rather than waste my expensive stuff.

[James_R 3]

Also you'll need to get busy with the wet and dry on the lifters to "planish" (spelling??) them for the new cams. which is basically re-facing them, can take ages if the lifters aren't too clever.

[Cameron 16]

I've been busy again tonight / last night.

I decided the interior looks a bit incomplete having a nice painted cage next to all the old Peugeot primer, so I decided to give the inside a coat of black paint. Last night I masked up the cage and painted it - only one layer though, this is a weight saving exercise after all.

 

Masked up.

 

 

And painted!

 

 

I'm really pleased with it! At risk of sounding a bit 'pimp my ride' it really makes the yellow 'pop'!

 

So with that out of the way I decided to get on with fitting my cams. I managed to get the inlet in and then gave it a quick spin to see if there are any clearance issues and, well, there are. No.1 inlet is very very close but the others aren't so lucky and it isn't possible to rotate the cam. So I'm going to have to do what I really didn't want to and take the head off, strip it down and get busy with the die grinder!

 

Abandoned..

 

 

The annoying thing is I think this is going to be the 5th head gasket I've had to buy since building my engine last summer.

Edited April 22, 2009 by Cameron

[swordfish210 20]

Cage looks really good, nice work as allways. Slightly off topic but i noticed a few months back that my ARB could do with a lick of paint as it was fairly rotten so i decided it would be good to get it balsted and powdercoated. Anywho i decided to get it coated yellow as it would stand out a bit and be a bit original...then i saw this thread and you did the same. Hope you dont think i'm idea stealing when i do mine.

[Cameron 16]

Its ok I don't think i'm the first to paint the ARB yellow!

 

After a bit of a crazy weekend at a festival I haven't been doing any work, but I got a chance to do some this afternoon. I whipped the head off, having almost forgotten the nerve-racking experience of undoing all the head bolts. Thankfully they all came out in one piece, but I think I'm going to seriously consider a slightly less extreme tightening method! With the head off I took all the followers and valves out.

 

Head off..

 

 

Valves out..

 

 

Seems to be in pretty good nick.

 

 

So that's ready to be cleaned up and then attacked with a die grinder. Hopefully I'll do that tomorrow.

 

I had also picked up some bits and bobs I needed for rebuilding the gearbox, namely the two ball bearings that shot out when I removed the reverse gear! So I got on with putting that back together and with a bit of fiddling I've managed to get it this far.

 

 

Well a little further actually as I have the end casing on too, but no pic. It works and everything! Hopefully it will also work when re-fitted to the car. I need to wait for the input shaft end bearing to arrive from Peugeot before I can finish the box, hopefully it'll be early next week.

I'm really glad I decided to rebuild the box though, there's a lot of fear associated with gearboxes but its really not that bad! I'm pretty sure anyone who can do a decent job of rebuilding an engine can rebuild a gearbox.

[Cloverleaf 1]

Looks really good mate, how did you paint the inside of the car?

[Cameron 16]

Used some Plasticote stuff from Halfords.

[tom_m 0]

are you going to adjust the cam timing when you put the head back on cam?

[James_R 3]

Looking good Cam, might beat you at this rate

[Cameron 16]

Probably. Its ok I beat you last year.

 

Borrowed a die grinder from work today so I'm about to go make sparks.

[Cameron 16]

So having borrowed one of these bad boys from work, I set to work modifying the head.

 

 

I fitted the cams and marked out the areas that needed to be removed, you can see that there are some clearance issues between the cam nose and the edge of the follower holes.

 

 

So I went to work on them with the die grinder and a burr.

 

 

 

Then refitted the cam and gave it a spin.

 

 

A good bit of clearance now!

 

 

So repeated the process with the exhaust cam and hooray, all done!

 

 

I've given the head a couple of really thorough cleans and provided all the swarf has gone I'll refit everything tomorrow. As soon as I get the gearbox bearing from Peugeot I can get the engine back in the car!

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

Proper lumpy sticks aren't they!

[James_R 3]

Probably. Its ok I beat you last year.

 

Oh yeah

[Cameron 16]

Got a call from Peugeot today and my gearbox bearing has arrived, £26!!!

Anyway, I'm going to try and get the car on its wheels tonight and then get the engine and gearbox back in this weekend.