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Hello all. Again it's me with more questions about spark and fuel. I have spent 2 weeks reading and trying to get spark and fuel based upon your guys previous help and the rest of the topics. I have read and annotated multiple different wiring diagrams etc to no avail. After I got the car started last time thanks to @DamirGTI, @welshpug, @SRDT and @petert, it spun a bearing first drive and I tore it down to find some chimp had assembled it and it was never going to run for long. (wrong crank, stem seals not on the guides, loose guides, main-cap bolts hand tight etc) I've rebuilt the engine and now I am at the stage again where I have no spark or fuel. I've changed the TDC sensor and I have a blue top ignition amp. Last night I stripped the loom and have taken notes of every wire and plug and where it goes into the ECU socket. I cant find a diagram for my ECU that is accurate to my two row ECU (Bosch Motronic 0261 -200 - 125) As I don't have the correct diagrams, I was wondering if someone could please tell me if the Coil and Ignition module (wrongly labelled AFM on my drawing) wiring looks correct? Its been butchered before and I feel like its wrong - hence no spark. I feel like the Purple & Yellow+Green should be swapped. Anyone also know what 2C is on the last photo diagram? (Highlighted in blue) Thank you all. Really need it up and running asap. Got a big trip in 3 weeks.

I’ve just finished rebuilding a car that was stripped of its engine and left for a long time! im looking to find the correct order to put these spade/connections onto the coil by the wing. positive side of the coil is closest to the body/chassis. all the cars/photos I see online don’t have the same amount or colour wires. any help much appreciated!

Hi guys, there has been a couple of threads about this but they were created wrongly so I will create this one about the problem in hand. so the story so far, about 2 weeks ago, the 205 started fine, no problems, since then I fitted the rear and front bumpers and some trim in the interior, then I had a dead battery, fitted a recharged one, and no starty. The engine turns over and there is fuel, I checked the two double relays in the dash and they are clicking as they should (some else’s issue on another thread). so I take the first plug out and rest it on the block and no spark, issue found, so I tested the volts at the coil plug from the loom and they were all reading just under 12v when cranking. I recently replaced the JPT plug on the coil as it was in a terrible state, it worked find after that for ages, and I planned on replacing the plug for the ignition amp as that was in poor condition as well, so I replaced the ignition amp with all new pins and plug. I turned it over and it fired into life, it was idling for about 15 seconds, and then it died, and won’t start again, NO SPARK AGAIN. Wiggled the plug around and still not starting, I was advised it might be the ignition amp so I put a wanted thread up (cheers for the reply’s) but I was too impatient and got one from Allparts, plugged this in and still won’t start. Does anyone have any ideas I could try? Could it really be the coil pack after it started fine when I replaced the plug? really need some help, ive been restoring it for 10 months now and when i can finially get it on the road this happends.

I have a few questions regarding a DTA S60 ecu if anyone can help. I looked every thread on the forum about the S40 version doing my research as that was what I was intending to buy but ended up getting a S60 with full loom instead. Crank Sensor: On the S40 there is only only output for the Crank, I have two to choose from with the S60. As I have very little knowledge on these types of things could someone tell me which one I should be using please? Crank Sensor Hall Effect or Crank Sensor Magnetic? From what I have read I want to say that I should be using the Magnetic sensor. Coil: Although the S60 ecu has the option for me to run individual coil packs I will be sticking with a wasted spark setup. I understand the 4 pin plug are normally wired like below: 1. Coil 1 + 3 2. Coil 2 + 4 3. 12v 4. I am getting confused which outputs I should be using for the coils. I know the firing order is 1342 so looking at the S60 wiring diagram should I be using O/P 10 for coils 1 + 3 and O/P 18 for 2+4? Can't get my head around it at all for some reason, it was easier on the S40 as I only had two outputs to choose from, now I have four. Injector/Cam Sensor I have worked out how to wire up the injectors but as I will be running a non sequential twin injector setup am I right in saying that I don't need to wire in one of the two cam sensor available? The cam sensor would only be required if I was running sequential yes? Any help/guidance provided will be appreciated. You never know I might actually get the car moving before the end of the year! Thanks for looking Geoff

Hi lads, new to the site as i need some help with a 205 CTi. I've searched through the forum for about a week now for answers but cant fine a cure, i'm hoping you can help. Not had the car long. It had an intermittent starting problem and when tested it had no spark at the plugs. When it started it would run all day (as long as it wasn't turned off), it pulled well and no misfires. This went on for about a week but now its dead. I've changed the coil and module. The cap and arm are clean and the leads are ok too. I've been through the wiring loom with the Haynes manual and i'm now at a loss. I'm thinking the new coil is faulty. When cranking it over, all 4 wires to the coil are positive, Is this correct? Any help would be great as with this heat wave coming it would be nice to get out in it. Thanks in advance, Mark