[engine_work] My New Gti6 Engine

[M@tt 77]

Well today i headed out early doors over to Stockport to meet Sorrentopete so that we could take out the GTI6 engine that i was buying off him. I don't think we could have picked a better day for it, the weather was fantastic and it was a really good laugh taking the engine out on his inlaws farm, there was plenty of space and tools on hand and endless cups of tea and even bacon sarnies thrown in, what more could you ask for!!

 

I think we did a really good job and the engine came out pretty much with out incident, although the rusty exhaust manifold bolts were a little tricky as is always the case, but they were made short work of when petes father inlaw dave whipped out his irwin nut extractors which worked a treat and took the rusted rounded nuts straight off no probs, definitely think i'll invest in a set of those!

 

the engines has had a fairly recent cambelt, tensioner and water pump change (<15k ago) but i'll probably wack a new belt on to be on the safe side as they're only cheap and then it wil be a case of working out what to do with the belt tensioners as the plan is to keep the PAS but bin off the aircon pump.

 

i'll give the block a bit of a clean up in my usual anally retentive way and hopefully transplant her in shortly after i'm back from the PSOOC euro trip.

 

My rebuilt mi16 engine with only 8k on the clock and bottom end<500miles will be up for sale as will the catcam inlet cam and dw8 vernier so keep and eye out on the forsale section

 

only got a few pics but here they are

 

 

 

the tardis like little 106 diesel performed valiantly lugging both the gti6 lump and the engine stand back home. I think this was a walk in the park for her compared to lugging the V6 and gearbox home from manchester

[welshpug 1,622]

if you're wanting to keep the PAS you can use the XU10J4R non aircon setup like the 306 Rallye uses, to convert to it you need;

 

Alternator Belt 5750 WL (K6 1160mm)

 

Tension Roller 5751 32

Roller 5751 33

Tensioner Screw 5703 67

[M@tt 77]

cheers WP

 

I'm guessing those tensioners are gonna be "pants down bend over and take this" expensive from peugeot, are they avavilable on any other models for scrappy/ebay hunting?

[welshpug 1,622]

you're right on the prices, one tensioner is about £60 from pug

 

should be available from any XU10J4R engined car without A/C, most use that big engine mounting/auxillary bracket so you should be able to acquire them for less.

 

I did notice that they were just normal cartridge bearings inside them so if you do get second hand you may be able to change the bearings

Edited April 26, 2008 by welshpug

[Peetypug 5]

glad you got it back mate

 

the question is did you get it out as easily as it went in

 

good to meet you and i hope all goes well putting it in, will probably take up the invite the next time you go out for a run in the peaks

[Goliath 94]

looks nice, this isnt replacing the supercharge mi16 is it?

[M@tt 77]

pete the engine is still in the boot, gonna get a hand tomorrow lifting it out, i have put a jack under the rear beam thought to take some weight off the poor rear suspension

 

Goliath, yes it's is replacing the mi16. I've still got the supercharger so it could be a supercharged GTI6 at somepoint instead, probably after the CTI turbo and T16 V6 are finished though!

[Peetypug 5]

when you went aver the bridge as i was shutting the gate, i bent down to see how close it was to the hump.

 

it was very very close!!!

 

if it had had a set of 14 inch rims they would have looked "well chav"

[Peetypug 5]

forgot to say

 

the result of crushing my finger tip trying to get the driveshaft out is....... i cant reel anything with the tip now

 

i didnt think it had done anything as it didnt break the skin, but i've done the pin/needle test and cant feel it

 

i'm hoping it comes back as thats my nose picking finger :D

[Alastairh 47]

Good lad. Another 6 engine going in a proper shell.

 

Intrested in the cam though...

Edited April 27, 2008 by Alastairh

[taylorspug 7]

Matt, i may still have the tesioner setup knocking about from my Rallye engine, il have a look and let you know. You can have it for pennies as ive no use for it.

[M@tt 77]

fantastic cheers mate

[Peetypug 5]

if you're wanting to keep the PAS you can use the XU10J4R non aircon setup like the 306 Rallye uses, to convert to it you need;

 

Alternator Belt 5750 WL (K6 1160mm)

 

Tension Roller 5751 32

Roller 5751 33

Tensioner Screw 5703 67

 

just got the prices for the above parts

 

 

Alternator Belt 5750 WL £15.76

Tension Roller 5751 32 £70.57

Roller 5751 33 £54.74

Tensioner Screw 5703 67 £2.12

 

surely i can get them from somewhere else cheaper than that?

[welshpug 1,622]

quite possibly Euro car parts or GSF.

[M@tt 77]

Well with the generous help of Paintguy last night we managed to drop the GTI6 lump into the car. It was a good job Andy was there as there was no way I could have managed it on my own especially as my drive is on an incline and cobbled

 

It was certainly a tight fit getting it in and I almost crushed Andy’s hand at one point when I turned the very sensitive crane release valve the wrong way and the engine dropped suddenly luckily no harm done

 

 

In the process of lifting the engine in I found one of the breather hoses from the cam cover had been damaged as the lifting eye had been bent inwards due to the weight of the engine and box and it had ripped through the pipe hopefully I should be able to put some sort of shrink wrap over it to seal/repair it. Think I might invest in a load leveller as I think they help to keep the lifting chains parallel and makes it easier to tilt and until the engine.

 

 

I've chosen to use the standard mounts and just extend the bottom mount fork slightly to angle the down pipe down the exhaust tunnel better. The fork needs extending by 25mmto get it bang on in between the bulkhead and the L bracket and ReturnofJim is kindly making me up one of those.

 

However due to the inconsistent French manufacturing process it looks like it looks like I might have a bit of a cam pulley clearance problem which I’ve not seen on anyone else project The brake master cylinder looks like it is going to foul the cam pulleys themselves even without the timing belt cover on. The engine seems to be sitting quite far over to the right even though the gearbox mount is as far over to the left as possible.

 

 

 

So I need to come up with a solution for this :S any suggestions??

 

To compound the problem my cars obviously had a front end impact at some point as the chassis leg has a crease in it and it means the alternator pulley is VERY close to the chassis leg, in fact when I took the Mi16 engine out you could see that the mi16 alternator had been rubbing on it on occasions as it had stripped the paint and worn into it slightly.

 

 

Another dilemma I have is with regards to the air filter pipe, the current pipe would angle the air filter into part of the front panel so that’s no good. The filter does fit perfectly onto the throttle body directly but this means that the extra pipe coming back from that resonance box (??) under the inlet manifold to the throttle body has no where to go.

QUESTION: Could I just fit a mini filter on the end of this pipe similar to those seen on some catch tanks?

 

 

Cheers

 

ps this is hopefully going to be finished for Pugfest next weekend stop laughing!!

Edited September 7, 2008 by pugtorque
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[pj838 0]

For some pictures of mine check the link in my sig they might be useful to compare, also I made up my own pipe with a take off, from the original 1.9 induction pipes.

[returnofjim 0]

Another dilemma I have is with regards to the air filter pipe, the current pipe would angle the air filter into part of the front panel so that’s no good. The filter does fit perfectly onto the throttle body directly but this means that the extra pipe coming back from that resonance box (??) under the inlet manifold to the throttle body has no where to go.

QUESTION: Could I just fit a mini filter on the end of this pipe similar to those seen on some catch tanks?

 

That hose goes to the idle valve, yes you can just put a small air filter on that

[M@tt 77]

pj838 cheers for the link, very useful out of interest did you make your inlet pipe from number 2 in this pic?

 

[Toddy 7]

M@tt

 

That damaged hose is only about 8 inch long and is a push fit, so will be cheap to replace.

 

M/C clearance: Putr some washers under the n/s servo bolts to angle it away.

 

Cheers

[Peetypug 5]

was just going to say use washers under the m/c.

My breather pipe is split in the same place

I'm gona go the scrap yard to get one off another car.

At least you've got the engine in

[M@tt 77]

Dave that pipe looks like it goes all the way back to the sump on service box and lists it as £38

 

 

Right i'm off to get some washers and plumping pieces for pipe connections from B&Q at lunch time

[pj838 0]

did you make your inlet pipe from number 2 in this pic?

 

 

I used one of those plastic inserts from number 2; can't remember which actual pipe I used, but I think it was part of the long one from the slam panel to the airbox. It was a nice fit on the gti6 throttle body

[welshpug 1,622]

If it helps Matt its the same crankcase-Cam cover breather pipe used on the XU10J4R (1192 Q3)

 

So you could liberate one from a 135 bhp 306, 406 and 605, as well as Citroens

Edited June 25, 2008 by welshpug

[M@tt 77]

thanks WP

 

pj838 oh so you ripped one of those additional outlets off the pipe and put it on another pipe? did i you glue it on or something?

[Baz 421]

Nice work M@tt!

 

Should be able to seal that pipe take-off on pretty easily, they fit from the inside, cut the hole for it ever so slightly smaller so it's a tight fit. maybe use some sealant too? Some have a fangled washer that tightly fits on the outside to hold it in, that may be used aswell.

 

Probably not what you want to hear but I know r.u.sure had many issues with MC clearance, tried allsorts and eventually had the cam cover ground and re-welded!!