[Project] Starting My Xu5T Build

[taylorspug 7]

Have you tried shutting the bonnet yet? As in the past ive found that the slam panel is extremely flexible without the support of the standard radiator cowling, which makes it hard to latch the bonnet down and causes alot of lift at speed. I welded some strengthening ribs into mine, but may well revise the design soon and put a couple of verticle struts in to help with the lift issue.

 

EDIT: Bloody cut and paste.

Edited March 16, 2009 by taylorspug

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

I did consider the oil level tapping but TBH its a bit small and not really in the right place, plus it would have meant making the pipework from scratch. As it is, I have used the standard Peugeot 2.0T drain pipework, and just made an elbow that welded to the sump to meet it where it ended up sitting. Seemed the easiest thing to do at the time TBH! One of the things that has been a ballache with this has been making everything to suit, but I've certainly got my moneys worth out of my TIG welder!

Ok thats fair enough.

 

The oil level sensor hole is the same thread size as the sump plug & over 14mm (9/16"s) ID straight into the sump so I thought it would be fine for size with a 90@ union & piece of braided hose etc but thats more cost & obviously oe parts are much easier to replace if ever needed.

 

It was going to stay on 1600 wheels until I found they didn't clear the brakes

They do fit but need a fair bit of trimming to get clearance.

 

I've been running them on my car for the last 18 months on 1.6 Speedline pepperpots with no issues.

 

Graham.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Each to their own, but my idea of fit is bolt straight on, without having to either machine the inside faces of the wheels or start grinding lumps off the calipers. I reckon a 10mm spacer would move them out enough to clear, or maybe the Speedline 1600 wheels are different, but having virtually given away 2 or so sets of 1600 wheels in the past as they are seemingly worth sod all, there is no way I'm paying for any now. I also won't be sad to see the back of the centreless wheels, as there is only one place round here that can balance them, and even then it usually takes them 2 or 3 goes at it.

 

Done a few odds and sods last night and tonight. Mounted the MAP sensor, the old plate for the ign amp seemed as good as anywhere.

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

Then mounted the remote reservoirs for the pedal box. This took me bloody hours to get them neat.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

After that I set about one of the calipers, looks a bit more presentable now.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

I'm also considering cutting off that big cast lump on the trailing edge of the caliper- I really can't see its purpose unless anyone else knows?

 

Job for tonight was to work out where the lambda sensor will fit under the car, and then weld on a stainless half nut.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

I have thought about doing something with the slam panel- it is suprisingly flimsy, especially as I've cut away a couple of sections of the returned edge for clearance. I think a strut down to the lower x-member might be the way I go, this seems pretty rigid.

Edited July 24, 2017 by Tom Fenton

[Cameron 16]

Quick question, do you use any flux on the back of those welds?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

No, why?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

And what's the black bag looking contraption in the MAP sensor picture please Tom? An alarm cover?

[pug_ham 241 3 Cars]

Like you say, each to their own but I didn't have to touch the wheels at all to get them to clear. A 2mm spacer got them clear with no further work.

 

I just took a bit of the inner wheel side face of the yoke & a touch of the outer edges of the caliper. 10 minutes max with a grinder & that included trial fittings to see if it was enough.

 

Graham.

[Cameron 16]

Well stainless reacts pretty badly on the rear of the welds and you end up with massive hairy tumours. Have a look down the inside and you might see what I mean. You can get stuff called solar flux to prep the backs of the welds and they will be silky smooth.

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

They've not come out too bad, see picture-

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

I suppose I could use the MIG torch and gas as a rough and ready backpurge, but its not enough to worry about really. Besides, up to about 12 months ago I would have been welding stainless pipe and the nut on with my MIG and mild steel wire, so I'm doing quite a bit better than that already

 

Black plastic doodah is some alarm cover thingy yes.

[Cameron 16]

Fair enough! Yeah that hasn't reacted too badly, back-gassing it will also work very well and definitely worth a try.

[billybluesky 1]

They've not come out too bad, see picture-

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a221/tom...5turbo005-1.jpg

I suppose I could use the MIG torch and gas as a rough and ready backpurge, but its not enough to worry about really. Besides, up to about 12 months ago I would have been welding stainless pipe and the nut on with my MIG and mild steel wire, so I'm doing quite a bit better than that already

 

Black plastic doodah is some alarm cover thingy yes.

standard practice in food process/water treatment industries is to use another pipe from the gas regulator to supply argon into the pipeand bung the ends with foam rubber to exclude the oxygen you get a really smooth internal weld

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I typed a mammoth post earlier then my net connection crapped out and lost it. I CBA typing it again, so you'll just have to make do with the latest pics........

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

[platty 1]

Recirc'ing dump valve.....this really is going to ba a sleeper!

[Mark205 1]

Can't say how much this project is inspring me to do something similar.

 

How far away are you from being finished as that engine bay looks pretty full.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

ooh getting closer

 

is that a revotec take-off on the coolant hose?

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Looks like we've got the same laptop Thomas.

 

(Tosh Satellite? L300-1AQ?)

 

I had nothing clever and turbo sounding to talk about.

 

It is looking brilliant, but with the rope still attached the engine, I have a sneaky feeling you're gonna whip her out again n'est pas?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Indeed it is coming out again, it only went in to allow me to make all the pipework both i/c and exhaust. In actual fact its due to come out any time soon now, I can then weld the stiffener plate into the pedal box mounting, and I'll probably also sort the brake lines and make a start on the ECU wiring whilst the engine is out as it will be easier. But after that its going in and staying in! (Famous last words)

 

As for the laptop it is an L300-19Y whatever the hell that is. I just had to look on the label to see what model it was. I bought it just before xmas when my old one crapped out, I have to say I'm very pleased with it.

 

Al, coolant take off is a Force Racing special as made by the world famous* Mr Carl Austin to my design.

 

(*Within Mini circles!)

[tom_m 0]

tom, is that barb 8mm by any chance? is it a self sealing type jobbie? and do you (assuming you're force racing) sell them?

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Its 10mm, I can probably get Carl to make some more to sell if there is interest. It secures in the pipe with a nut from behind, you drill a small hole in the hose so it is a tight fit through, finish it off with a dab of silicone.

[tom_m 0]

no it's ok i don't want to put you out, i was planning to the revo-tec jobbie anyway, but if you had some to hand i'd rather put my readies a forum member's way.

[phil withers 0]

Jeepers matey, you got shares at Samco now ???

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Believe it or not, I've spent just under £100 on silicone hoses, not TOO bad I thought? Not samco ones, el cheapo ebay copies!

 

For everyone elses info, Phil is the man responsible for the intercooler and the stainless radiator bracket, now aged 29 he is a lot less ginger but marginally more grumpy than he was aged 11 when I first met him.....!

Edited March 25, 2009 by Tom Fenton

[bales 1]

Ha ha thats a coincidence, I was out just last night fitting my Bosch DV off my Golf that I have spare and was just thinking I have never seen anyone use one of these OE ones before.

 

 

Recirc'ing dump valve.....this really is going to ba a sleeper!

 

Unfortunately if you have an open air filter they are still loud and still very noticeable....

 

I was just going to leave mine to vent to atmos though as I cant be bothered connecting it all up to the inlet...

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

I did wonder if the noise would still be audible through the cone filter, oh well will have to see what its like, hopefully the pipework will take some of the "sting" out of the noise.

 

I've been in the garage this afternoon and finished my downpipe, it now will mate up directly to the magnex system I have.

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

[Tom Fenton 1,526]

Not got on the car much this weekend, however it now looks like this again.......

 

205T by Tom Fenton, on Flickr

 

I also got a load of aeroquip and fittings last week, so I can now get on with the jobs that need doing with the engine out, and then it can go back in once and for all!