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pip470

[trackday_prep] My 1/4 Mile And Trackday Project Car

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Rippthrough
Cheers, want to see how they compare to mine :blush:;)

 

1656grams each my new ones, while I remember... :)

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pip470

The car is pretty much just in storage under a cover for christmas and with the euro trip pending I don't think any work will be carried out until july/august next year. I will try and get weights at the first chance I get, I really dont think the rears will be much different to standard to be honest as they didn't have a lot of metal removed but it will still be interesting to see the differance between yours. What is yours by the way? Maybe a possible upgrade for me but im also thinking of having two front motorbike wheels with the disk brakes fitted to some kind of swing arm or maybe jjust a fixed sort of frame as the rear beam assy is so heavy. Not really put much thought into yet as its a while away. Phill

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Rippthrough

6737.jpg

 

Aye, the beam is a heavy bugger, like the bike wheel idea but a couple of single sided wheels might not be be all that cheap?

Weld the hubs straight the car, who needs rear suspension on a drag car? :blush::)

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pip470

Now they look cool, they kind of take insperation from the bike brakes ive seen, the workmanship of your products far outstands anything ive ever made or done to the car. Great stuff.

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Rippthrough

Nah, I've just got fancier tools to hand, nice to have but there's still some nice work in your car :)

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pip470

Well with the euro trip out of the way and things starting to get back to normal, (whatever that is) The drag car is going to come out to play once again. Money is very tight still at the minute so although i cant do all of my plans, ive still set myself ,I think a reachable goal of 12.9 or less by the end of the year. I plan to do this purely with a power hike. I have the euro trip gti 6 engine in pieces and Im going to give it a bit of a freshen up with some new rings shells ect ect. So with 168 hp as standard from this engine that it made even when it was poorley, that is already the power i had with nitrous on the 1.8, so hopefully with nitrous this time im going to see just how much these pistons can take. The super charger boys are running these engines daily at 240 so I should be safe up untill that point at least and i think thats an ample power hike to lose another second.

 

 

On a side note, can anyone tell me, the block I have the has j4r stamped on the side, the head has rs stamped on the side, the pistons look flat with very small pockets for the valves so im assuming what i have is a j4r block with gti 6 pistons and head ect ect.

 

What im really asking is, Are the xu10j4rs blocks stamped with j4rs? Doesnt change anything for me but it would be nice to know. The sump has been off and cleaned before as there are still patches of old oil staining so it has been apart before.

 

Im also going to run some higher octane fuel for this year and a few other mods that i have is the new close ratio gear box (1.6 with mi final drive and Kaaz diff) . I have a choice of tyres two tyres in different sizes too. I may tr a paddle clutch but im thinking this is a bad idea from the start.

 

I will keep this upldated from now on and I hope in the not to distan future that i can try and arrange a big peugeot meet at the pod, it would be nice to break my PB in front of some peugeot friends.

Heres the madness

 

 

 

Phill

post-8104-1243471396_thumb.jpg

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Anthony
On a side note, can anyone tell me, the block I have the has j4r stamped on the side, the head has rs stamped on the side, the pistons look flat with very small pockets for the valves so im assuming what i have is a j4r block with gti 6 pistons and head ect ect.

 

What im really asking is, Are the xu10j4rs blocks stamped with j4rs? Doesnt change anything for me but it would be nice to know. The sump has been off and cleaned before as there are still patches of old oil staining so it has been apart before.

GTi-6 engines that I've seen have all had blocks stamped "J4R" and "RS" on the head. GTi-6 pistons are pretty much flat, whereas if memory serves me right, J4R pistons have a dish in the middle, so it sounds like your engine is a proper RS unit <_<

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welshpug

As Anthony said, the J4R piston has a pronounced dish, the RS has a very slight one, the blocks are identical.

 

I doubt it'd make a great deal of difference if it were a J4R bottom end assembly as they aren't much lower compression at 10.4 (same as Mi16) as opposed to the 10.8 from the J4RS piston.

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DrSarty

Dunno what you're doing Pip to reduce rotational losses (I agree: I'm sure the paddle clutch will be a lot heavier), but James R's been another forum member doing a lot of clever mass reducing work of late, namely a super lightened flywheel and main crank pulley.

 

I suppose it all helps.

Edited by DrSarty

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pip470

Thanks Anthony and welsh pug for clearing that up, Thats great. Rich, I already have the lightened crank pully but I cant really afford the flywheel for this build so it will make do for now. I am not going to run an alternator either especially as this engine doesnt seem to like wearing them. LOL

 

As for the paddle clutch, I wasnt thinking from a wieght point of view as its probably lighter than a normal one but i was thinking more from how progressie it will be in first, I dont want a snatchy clutch, I want to be able to feed it in with control. But it will be nice to experiment with the paddle clutch.

 

I'm going to use the s16 sump to as its a little less bulky and using my calebrated arms feels ligter straight out of the box, I know they can be cut down but its easier just to use the other one I have.

 

 

Thats it for now, Thanks again for the help.

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DrSarty

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I've heard the paddle clutch IS heavier, not lighter as you mentioned.

 

I know you weren't approaching it from a weight point of view; I'm just not sure the paddle clutch is going to bring you any benefits for the cost, AND the extra weight.

 

What do you think about the lightened crank pulley idea? And are you running a water pump? Do you need to? Cameron amongst others have solved this with a blanking plate and shorter timing belt.

 

Can you afford to lop 2inches off the roof? Wind resistance is your biggest enemy if you have traction (and good power).

Edited by DrSarty

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pip470

Hi Rich, I'm not sure where its come from that a paddle clutch is heavy, mabe your thinking of the multi plate clutches. The one I already have, which came free with the gearbox I bought has four paddles and no springs. A bit like this picture that i just grabbed of the internet.

 

I think it wil bel clear if i need it or not from the first few runs. I noticed you have just bought a new clutch too. So ill keep an eye out as to how it performs.

 

 

I bought the lightened pully because I liked the idea that its all one piece so you cant get the timing wrong and there will be a very slight improvement on the acceleration of the engine. Probably not enough of a reason to just change the pully on its own but with a few things changed like the flywheel and anything rotating, wheels ect then its probably going to be a noticable gain. Every little helps so to speak.

As for the water pump, this season im going to run with it purely down too money and ease. I just want to get a working engine in the car and get some runs in this year, If i could afford it would run the electric water pump and that would allow me to be able to cool the engine quicker and therefore be able to do almost back to back runs. When the next stage of this engine happens which I am keeping to myself for a couple of years so it doesnt sound like im a dreamer, then i will run water in the block but no water system.

 

 

 

As for the roof chop, It would way out of my capability and I dont want to change the look of the 205 too much, the front end may change over the years but the shell will not. I like your thinking though.

 

 

Just like luke from bennet racing asked a couple of months ago for a name for his drag car i would also like to ask for sugestion about this. I hae thought long and hard and im just not creative enough so any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks Phill

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dcc

Phee leep

 

sort out an update!

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pip470

Hey Dan, there really isn't much of an update, the car is currently looking very sorry for itself. Other things have just taken priority. Right now it is sat with a 2ltr turbo engine on its mounts but thats as far as I have got. If I can get some good overtime over christmas I will look into getting an ecu and loom and take it from there. I really have so much though that I want to do like the 2010 scotland trip that it doesnt leave any money free. We will see what happens. Thanks for asking though.

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Batfink

I've had the pleasure of collecting rather a lot clutch setups. If you have the budget to run an alloy clutch cover rather than the heavy standard type you will save a lot of weight. My new clutch and flywheel I can pick up with two fingers.

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pip470

Well the clutch is the last thing on my mind just now but i definatly would like a two finger flywheel and clutch assy :lol: .

 

So a small update, I managed to get the engine running, I got fed up with the double relay and in true heath robinsen stylee i cut it out and started randomly connecting lives, if it sparked it was wrong, if it didn't it was right.The engine ran with the bare minimum of control but there was smoke and the turbo spat loads of oil out of the inlet . So that left me with a dilema, I could spend £400 on reconditioning the turbo, keeping the crappy exhaust manifold and battling on trying to get the ecu fully working or I should do it the proper way with no corners cut.

 

Ive chosen a mix of the two, First the engine is back out, the head is off to do the head gasket, a quick skim, the valve stem oil seals, and a quick lick of paint. (10 hp shiney red paint for the rocker cover).

 

The Kaaz dif has been sent of to west midland motorsport for a check up and maybe a rebuild. Ive yet to see what if anything is wrong with it. When that comes back I will put it in the 1.9 gear box that I had the welded diff in as this will be a much better solution.

 

And the ive been rubbing my thighs and dreaming of the shineys on DP - engeneering's website. I'm working all christmas including crimbo night so I'm going to traet myself to a nice shiney love collector manifold in january. After that I will have to wait because unless I do my motor bike test before march I will have to do my cbt again.

 

Thats all for now, will upload the pics of my painted engine when its all together.

Edited by pip470

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Arahan

Nice :lol: what about the ones boseturbo is selling, they are the top mount crazy pipe type, but weigh in cheaper?

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pip470

Ha ha, same dilema as the cheap ebay turbo really. Why don't you buy one first and tell me how good it is and then I will buy one. :huh: I'm living by the saying, "buy cheap, buy twice". Its going to be an expensive journey I think. Not as expensive as this though.!!! :lol:

post-8104-1257993396_thumb.jpg

Edited by pip470

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welshpug

subarooooo?!

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pip470

I was on the garret website looking at who they sponsor and this is one of them, Theres some amazing machines on there. Theres no brits on there though, The website is the great for information and it got a bit deep for me. I'm going to have to revisit this site, choosing a turbo is not as simple as "I want 300hp so I need that one" as I stupidly first thought. It seems its all about getting the pressure ratio and flow in the sweet spot between the surge and choke lines. Well heres the website if anyone wants a look.

 

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/

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pip470

Time for an update. I now have a heater in the garage. Its a machine mart devil 850. I have to say its the bees knees for a large garage. It uses quite a bit of gas, id say around £20 for 3 long 8 hour days. There's still gas left but its just not as powerful it was. Highly recommended though.

 

So, I have been busy with the wiring of this 2.0 ltr engine, I have nearly worked it all out and the engine runs but i know i haven't got the vehicle speed sensor module plugged in, so im not sure what effect this will have on the ecu. Everything else is there and working which is nice.

 

Ive extended the bottom mount and also cut a hole in the bulk head for exhaust clearance. There's still a lot to do but ive been happy with the progress this past week so I thought id share it. Can't wait to get this to the pod now.

post-8104-1262887222_thumb.jpg

post-8104-1262887242_thumb.jpg

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chocolate_o_brian

Oh my... never ask me to draw that engine bay LOL :unsure:

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dcc

PHIL! UPDATE PLEASE!

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pip470

Sorry Dan its still in the same shape as the last pic. I won't give up on it though, this car needs to run. I just don't know when that will be. I need a bit of motivation (ie money) really as its not that far off racing. Maybe i will push over winter to get it ready for cold February.

 

On the other hand, my Euro trip car equalled the time set with this car. Looking at the timing slips has given me some real good data about the two. So Retro car show is this month and then USC in August and im hoping to beat my best of 13.9 with maybe a 13.8.

 

 

Rapid Rattler will be back. Thanks Dan.

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lukesaddy

the front of your car looks absolutely unreal mate, its a shame about it not being finished.

 

a 13.8 would be a nice result like :huh:

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