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Plumbob

[Car_Restoration] Scruffy But Original 1.9 Gti - Restoration

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dobboy

Hope i'm wrong bob but with the clearances you've given yourself i think you'll be revisiting the cambelt inner cover and cam cover.

 

But it's certainly taking shape and looking great.

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Plumbob

Hope i'm wrong bob but with the clearances you've given yourself i think you'll be revisiting the cambelt inner cover and cam cover.

 

But it's certainly taking shape and looking great.

Thankyou, you are probably right about the cam cover, I was thinking the same thing last night. I'll take a bit more off just to be sure before I bleed the brakes.

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Plumbob

Happy New Year! Can I still say that?

 

I've got the "6" engine running without any big drama to start with... I do have a few issues though...

 

1. I need a 1.4 bar cap for the header tank as my standard pressure one lets the coolant go after about 10 minutes of idle - easily sorted

 

2. Oil pressure gauge seems to work, however when the car is cold the pressure reads on the second white line on the gauge, if I give it a Rev it rises a bit, then settles back down. Then comes the but......

 

When the engine gets hot the gauge drops to just under the first white line and a nasty tapping noise starts to come from what I think is the rear cam cover. From cold the engine sounds perfect, idles fine and revs freely. The tapping starts at approx 10 minutes and gradually gets louder until I crap myself and turn it off.

 

So I've had a look on this forum and the 306 forum and am fairly satisfied that I've not got a "tapper" on my hands, I've taken out all the plugs, cleaned the holes out and replaced them with more NGK BKR6EK's as I read that they can work loose and from watching a few vids it sounded like the same as loose plugs.

 

I know the gauges aren't exactly accurate but do any of you more experienced guys reckon it could simply be that the oil pressure really is dropping off and causing the noise due to the oil being too thin? I've used Magnatec 10W40 and a MANN filter. Could the filter be the culprit?

 

3rd and finally, the water temp gauge hardly moves but eventually the red light comes on when the engine comes up to temp. I'm guessing it's possible I've got one of the dash plugs not quite right but I thought I'd mention it anyway. I'll investigate this myself.

 

Any useful input would be most welcome.... I'm thinking about buying a pug filter and changing the oil for something different...

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speno

Oil pressure sender unit ?

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Plumbob

Oil pressure sender unit ?

Seems to me that it's probably ok. It reads higher when cold and lower when hot.

 

I've fixed the water temp gauge and light, buzzed the wiring and sensor with a multimeter and found I had wire 47 and 47a back to front in the 9 pin plug... Silly bugger.

 

The noise is like the exhaust manifold blowing I suppose. Come in again now, too cold.

Edited by Plumbob

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Plumbob

Today I got the correct 1.4 bar pressure cap for the expansion tank and surprise surprise things are looking a little better. I also found the earth connection for the rad fan was shot to bits so sorted that out and that also now works. The car came up to temp twice (the gauge now works properly), fan came on and cooled it all down, and no more coolant spewed out of the header tank.

 

There is still a bit of a ticking noise from over the back somewhere when it's warm. Do any of you have any recommendations for oil?

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welshpug

just any half decent 10w40 will suffice, Total quartz 7000 is one of the o.e specified oils amongst a few.

 

I have a vague recollection of magnatec not working so well in pug engines, causing mayo in 8v engines more than the usual.

Edited by welshpug

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dobboy

I had a ticking from the back, it was a washer rattling on a slack bolt on the exhaust manifold heatshield.

 

Can't remember what oil i used, run of the mill half decent stuff and it's fine all temperatures. I ran an engine oil flush initially in mine, if you're gonna change your oil anyway you should maybe consider it, some garages recomend it and some don't, so i ran it for half what the tin said.

 

My oil P needle sits just over first white line after a good blast when idling, oil temp probs about 3/4 level.

 

(I thought the cap should be 1.3 bar)

 

Probably not helpful but good to see your up and running now anyway, well done, keep at it!

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Plumbob

Cheers lads, I'm gonna have a look around the back of the engine tomorrow and see if anything seems loose. I think I'm happy that the engine is ok and i'll continue to build the rest of the car up.

 

I'd quite like to actually drive the thing and see what its like. Then i'll have a look at changing the oil if I can't find any loose things like manifold studs etc,

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Plumbob

Does the Castrol stuff I mentioned above qualify as decent quality in your opinion WP?

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welshpug

Its meant to be but it wouldn't harm to try a different oil.

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Plumbob

ok ta, like I said i'll check for other stuff that might be causing the chuffing type of sound and then i'll see...

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welshpug

ahh, just a thought, it'll have a re-angled manifold correct?

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Plumbob

ahh, just a thought, it'll have a re-angled manifold correct?

Indeed. I got Miles to do it so it should be pukka. I am wondering if there's a blow hole in one of the welds, don't really want there to be one as I can't see it coming out very easily with the engine in!

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dobboy

I was just thinking the same about a pinhole.

 

But i remember Malc took his manifold off and it was perforated but there was no odd noises when idling.

 

Also, has the downpipe married up ok? Although its difficult to tell/see.

 

Maybe you need to do a few Marlboro light tests!

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Plumbob

I've used a new downpipe fitting kit so I hope it would be ok. I used the longer of the two pairs of bolts as there's no way I could see I could get the shorter ones started. The longer ones were bad enough (I had to squash the spring in order to get them started)

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dobboy

Aye, fitting the downpipe is very difficult on your own. No room and only two hands.

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Plumbob

Had a good afternoon on the rebuild today! Now I'm happy that all the electrics work and the engine doesn't crap itself when it warms up I decided to get on with all the finishing bits. I've not taken a massive amount of photos but today I've done the following...

 

Trimmed the rad surround to get some clearance to the inlet manifold..

 

Chopped a few chunks (neatly) out of the slam panel, touched up the paint and fitted it.

 

Fitted the lights, grille and started on the bumper.

 

With a bit of luck tomorrow all the bumpers and side trims will be fitted, then I'll get the lower dash in place and go and get the seats from storage and get those in. All I need then is an assistant (the wife) to help me bleed the brakes and I think I'll be getting close to the end..... Oh still need to fit the headlining too!.... Come to think of it, there's still loads to do...

 

40CC58A9-28F0-49D3-BE94-0BB3BB867482_zps

 

4F50AD95-5E3C-4B00-ACAA-CE0A5FA873A6_zps

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dobboy

Did you get the odd sound sorted?

 

It's looking well.

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Plumbob

Nope, just gonna get it together and drive it... I can't stand worrying/thinking about it any more... time will tell but I'm hopeful it'll be alright..

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Plumbob

Had a good day again today!

 

Got the bumpers and trim fixed on, it was actually a pleasure to do! I got all new clips and T bolts and it went together lovely!

 

Since the photos were taken I've also done the sunroof trim (one side is shot to bits but it'll do for now), front driving lamps and the wipers.

 

All good!

 

B4AE9F52-9D39-45A4-8821-F8DD65C06173_zps

 

F89FB4B6-F832-4BB4-85EB-9786EABFAA64_zps

Edited by Plumbob

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dobboy

Great PB. Putting all the nicey parts back on is the good part, all nice any shinny and it doesn't take long to start looking like a car again.

 

What have you got on the back end? it's sitting mean/broad, but doesn't look quite as wide as a 309 beam?

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Plumbob

That'll be th ZX arms and ABS hubs on the back, I might have to shave the rear arch plastic a bit as I fear it'll rub. Again, I'll see when I can actually give it some stick... Shouldn't be too long now :-)

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dobboy

I see. I was thinking of fitting different arms/hubs to mine, or a 309 beam. I didn't anticipate any rubbing problems with changing the arms/hubs after what i've read.

 

Is it because the the offset of your type of wheels (ET8?) that has brought the ZX arms/wheel combination a smidgen too close for comfort?

 

I didn't think it looked too low for you to expect problems either?

 

(I do like a black 205.)

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Plumbob

I must admit I'm not sure of the wheel offset! They get close when I bounce the back end. I actually thought the front would be lower with the eibach's (-30mm) and the heavy engine, again maybe that's on the ever growing list of things that I'll iron out once it's running properly. Haha

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