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aarontrophy

Fitting The Satchshift Today :)

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tomcolinjones

added to basket!

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Batfink

And my wife just asked me what i wanted for my birthday this month!

 

Other than the hole in the bulkhead is there any other fabrication or holes that need to be drilled? How does it fit onto the subframe? Is it ok with a left hand drive steering rack etc?

 

Its a generic image as I dont have time to take many pictures for the site lol. The picture is the peugeot 106 satchell kit. I'll be taking some new shots when this batch arrives though. The TU setup is very similar to the XU, with only minor differences. It bolts to the standard subframe using existing holes; unlike the 106 which needs to bolt to the bulkhead. I'll take some proper pictures as soon as I get them in and I'll post here so you can see what you get...

The XU kit has been fitted to a lot of left hand drive cars so theres no issue there.

 

Kev

Edited by Batfink

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205Rallee

Thanks for letting me know. Just wondering if there are any modifications to the original selector arms as I can't think that these can be modified as they are solid bits of steel and I recall can only be removed by stripping the box, so I'm guessing the Satchshift fits onto these? Really looking forward to seeing some photos so I can get my order in, don't keep us waiting too long!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Batfink

As Mei has said, you swap the top selector arm by removing the rollpin. I'll do some nice detailed shots :D

Edited by Batfink

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205Rallee

You're a star!

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205Rallee

From Satchell Engineering "the MA Satchshift fits to the subframe using the same brackets as the standard 205 Satchshift. The cross rods fit onto the standard selector rod on your box, and we provide a replacement top arm".

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205Rallee

Ordered from KAM Racing :) :) :)

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205Rallee

In preparation for fitting a Satchshift onto the MA box I had a look at the roll pin on the selector arm and it's solid but appears to be tapered on one end which points to the right of the car and there's about 10mm of the pin exposed. The other end points to the left of the car isn't tapered and only approximately 3mm is exposed. If I'm lucky it might press out, or a centre punch might shift it, if not it might get a bit nasty and it might be a drill out? Does anyone know which way the pin comes out?

 

Tried to uplaod a photo from my phone but it wouldn't load:(

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205Rallee

Going to try a motorbike chain rivet extractor tool.

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Batfink

Leave your arm on! Just had a look at the kit as its come in and looks like it uses the standard part. I'll upload some photos later today when I finish packing all the orders.

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205Rallee

Too cold to go in the garage tonight so it's still on. Will wait for further instructions. Will be well pleased if it doesn't need to come off!

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205Rallee

Cheers Kev for the superfast delivery. The kids think it's ultra cool:) Oh and no need to remove the standard selector arm so well pleased!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

post-8266-0-15543200-1424892422.jpg

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post-8266-0-09233700-1424892457.jpg

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A1AXX

Has anyone got a pic of the 205 ma one fitted. I fitted mine ages ago but have only just dropped the engine back in the car

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A1AXX

Has anyone got a pic of the 205 ma one fitted. I fitted mine ages ago but have only just dropped the engine back in the car

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205Rallee

Almost fitted mine, should get it finished tomorrow.

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A1AXX

Almost fitted mine, should get it finished tomorrow.

Did you manage to have yours work correctly?

 

Colin made me a spacer for the bell crank to gearbox rod and i also spaced the whole bell crank up by about 8mm.

 

Please show pictures if possible as I couldnt get it to work correctly without the spacers

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205Rallee

Your post has made me feel an awful lot better as I thought it was me getting it wrong!

To be honest it was the most awkward thing I've ever fitted to a car with the exhaust fitted and engine in place. It took me about three days of taking it on and off adjusting the rods and the rose joints so that everything didn't clash.The long rod from the bottom of the lever would clash with the bell crank etc. It's definitely not a finished product for TU engined 205's. The gear change is a wee bit shorter than the original but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone at the moment. If it needs additional spacers then they should be supplied rather than let people battle on thinking it's them not the product. I've not run it down the road yet as I'm concerned it will pop out of gear. I'll take some photos tomorrow, probably before I take it off and refit the original gearchange.

Edited by 205Rallee

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A1AXX

No problem. I felt a bit silly when I had to grind and bend at it to get it to work.

 

I can confirm that it works okay when it's spaced up. Still a few niggles but much better than standard. It was more so I could get the gear lever up higher away from my seats as I was changing gear with my hand between the buckets before.

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205Rallee

Still not managed to drive it yet, but reverse gear selection is definitely going to be a challenge and the first and second change doesn't feel too positive, but it goes into third fine! Some not very good photos to follow

post-8266-0-43632600-1427044770_thumb.jpg

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205Rallee

Another photo

post-8266-0-24269100-1427044823_thumb.jpg

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205Rallee

and another

post-8266-0-80438400-1427045224_thumb.jpg

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A1AXX

and another

You are having the same problems I have had. the bell crank can be spaced up by about 8-10mm , that's my advice not from Satchel. Mine is now working incredibly well and I am happy with it.

Edited by A1AXX

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A1AXX

SInce then I have taken a few mm off the end of threaded end that would touch the new rose joint

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205Rallee

Well after another couple of hours of adjusting the straight threaded rod I've finally got it to engage 2nd and 4th gears, but it pops out of reverse. I'm pretty sure the "S" shaped link is too short and the long rod that runs from the bottom of the gear lever is too long. My car is LHD and the gear lever is canted over to the left which is ok but that wouldn't be the case for a RHD car.

 

If there are some modified parts how did you get hold of them?

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