[engine_work] Budget 16V Turbo In Laser Green

[welshpug 1,621]

valves to pistons.

[peter 20]

Ah I see, about the same as a standard S16 engine would have. But the cams have 1mm more lift.

[peter 20]

I'm going to try retarding the intake cam a few degrees to reduce the overlap and see how that goes..

[petert 549]

You should advance the exhaust, so it has less lift at TDC, reducing the overlap. Try it at 0.020" first, then maybe 0.000" maximum.

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

love this!

[peter 20]

I get back home to work on the car next Monday so I will try some cam settings then.

 

The car isn't really "budget" anymore After fitting an omex 600, some cams and adjustable pulleys that's another £800

 

But with those parts I really should be able to get the most out of the set up. So for the whole engine it still has only cost around £1100 but that doesn't not include the cost of building the manifold exhaust system, or machining the pistons, new cambelt kit, head gasket, oil, paddle clutch, etc etc.

 

also it really needs a LSD and stronger planet gears, looking at the 3J NXG as they claim they are the strongest on the market and never go "open" so if something does go wrong (on the ring perhaps) I can drive it off without being charged for recovery

 

 

 

 

 

 

[peter 20]

Goes really well at 1.5 bar using 70% of the 480cc injectors.

 

But it seems incredibly laggy, all though it makes full boost by around 3500 it doesn't really give an aggressive surge of torque like the 8v.

 

It does pull to 7000rpm in 5th with the turbo diesel box and 195 50 15s though.

 

 

Its back in bits now as the heat from the turbo is trying to melt everything. including the crank sensor and bonnet lining which caught fire and made a bit of a mess

 

 

The 3J nxg plate diff makes it an interesting drive!

Edited March 17, 2014 by peter

[peter 20]

[peter 20]

[peter 20]

[peter 20]

The intercooler is completely hidden by the grill...

 

Unfortunately I have come across another problem, after fitting the heat wrap and turbo blanket the exhaust temperatures are exceeding 800oC this combined with not using the water cooling on the turbo and running 22psi of boost has resulted in the turbo smoking. I'm assuming it has coke build up on the turbine oil slinger groove and seal ring.

 

So next thing on the to do list will be fit proper water cooling and angle the turbo at 20degrees to aid thermal siphoning.

 

Will not be using heat wrap either!

Although it did seem to make the turbo spool quite a bit earlier.

 

The turbo will be rebuilt and a 19t billet compressor wheel used.

 

Any of the pros any advice on making this engine and turbo setup more reliable?

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

can you not try and move the turbo forward a bit away from the engine? or.. i know it doesnt look that nice but a bonnte scoop to try get some cold air over it

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

looking at your engine bay, i would think about trying to move the turbo right up to the slam panel, then cover everything around it in that shiny heat reflective stuff

[peter 20]

I can't see how that would help tbh. The 8v turbo sits very close to the engine.

 

Not a chance I'm putting a bonnet vent on it. I will however raise the rear of the bonnet to let some hot air out.

 

It's not the under bonnet temps that are the problem now, it's the turbine and bearing Housing temps. (Possibly after shut down) that's caused the turbo to fail.

 

Water cooling will certainly help but will also need a considerably larger radiator.

 

If anyone had one of thos BBM ones for sale I'd like to buy it.

[welshpug 1,621]

raising the rear is just as bad as cutting a vent in it.

[peter 20]

Your not very helpful.

[carlh.1 8]

Some times compromise is the only way welsh when you have a hot turbo under the bonnet!

 

I raised the rear of my bonnet about 30mm and have a evo 10 type vent in the bonnet, turbo temps stay fine, I am only 14psi and 300hp at the minute peter, with you having higher boost it's probably going to create more heat then mine.

[peter 20]

Ill raise the bonnet at the rear and see what it's like.

 

Your turbo might flow more air than mine, I'd guess mine is only 300hp.

[carlh.1 8]

It defiantly helped get air flowing through the engine bay on mine, I'm only on a td05-16g off a subaru sti, quite a small turbo but no lag with it.

I have no heat wrap on the manifold runners but I have warped the manifold link pipe and down pipe.

Are you on a larger Garrett turbo?

[peter 20]

Nope I'm on a td04-16t at the minute!

 

So your turbo is quite a bit bigger than mine. Mine has a 56mm compressor wheel yours is 68 if I remember correctly (as I got sent a 16g compressor wheel by accident)

 

I have a 19T wheel to fit tho that should flow 550cfm yours flows 600cfm. Not really that small as I'm sure some evos run ~400hp on that turbo

[carlh.1 8]

I see, your prob working the tdo4 to hard then, your best bet is to fit a tdo5, you will find the turbine hot side will start to restrict flow a hell off a lot, that's where all your heat will be coming from. My mapper said mines to small realy but I'm not aiming for 500hp so happy with no lag. What turbo flange have you on your manifold?

[peter 20]

The turbo is ran at 22psi on a 2.3 Volvo so it won't be quite out of its efficiency range on a 2.0 although a bigger turbo at a low pressure will reduce the heat in the exhaust but will cause quite a bit more lag and it's too much hassle swapping to a td05 as the intake and down pipe flanges are silly shapes.

 

If I do change the turbo ill be going for a twin scroll next. The evo td05 would be ideal but the size and orientation of the intake flange would make it extremely difficult to fit.

 

The Volvo td04 with the Angled flange im using is a compact unit and make it easy to add a 3" v-band to the inlet and down pipe. Removing the turbo take less than 1minute

 

A smaller holset with a T3 twin scroll intake flange might be an idea.

 

Or fit a modified turbine wheel with less blades to aid flow and reduce back pressure. But the cost isn't really worth it as it still won't be twin scroll.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

The 2.3 Volvo probably doesn't flow/consume as much charge as your engine does so the turbo may well be working harder to produce 22psi on your 2.0

You can't gauge the turbos capability by comparing boost pressure, it's about the flow.

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

Before you start to molest your car with air scoops or raised bonnets, maybe try first the obvious step: fix the water cooling!

That will help a lot.

 

Secondly, I think you're not nice to your turbo running a that boost level. It think it's getting out of its efficient region, making it work like a hair dryer at 2.5

 

​

Edited March 30, 2014 by wicked

[welshpug 1,621]

indeed, people become far to fixated by boost pressure, for example, a Litchfield LM900 Nissan GTR runs about 1.4 bar from the stock 3.8, still makes 700 at 0.8 iirc!