[project] 405 Mi16 Drift/track Car

[welshpug 1,622]

no need, fit a bias valve and they'll do more work as they are, no point doing much else!

[AlexN 7]

I am going to refurbish the original rears and use them, which makes it nice and simple as everything fits (unlike the fronts where I have to custom make everything!). The pedal box I have will have a bias adjuster (twin master cylinders) so I will be able to get it set up and working nicely. The car will still have a very front biased mass distribution so the rear brakes shouldn't need to do too much work.

[cammmy 1]

I guess you probably have at least an extra 40kg in there with the xu10 and the turbo, but I thought when you start stripping a 4bie it would become rear heavy almost. Normal distribution is nearly 50/50 and a lot of the weight that can be stripped would come from the front. Especially when you start going with grp panels etc?

[AlexN 7]

I guess you probably have at least an extra 40kg in there with the xu10 and the turbo, but I thought when you start stripping a 4bie it would become rear heavy almost. Normal distribution is nearly 50/50 and a lot of the weight that can be stripped would come from the front. Especially when you start going with grp panels etc?

Was the 4bie really close to 50/50? If so then maybe you are right! Still, I have stripped a lot of weight from the rear (all the original suspension set up etc), but then I have moved the fuel tank etc into the boot... I guess I will have to weigh it when it is finished to work out the distribution.

 

I still don't think that the rear brakes will need upgrading much at this time. I can save a bit of money (that's a novelty ) by using the original rears, but with some decent pads in.

[imaS 0]

Yep, about 53% of weight at front axle.

[cammmy 1]

Cool. Was wondering if it was worth it to get vented rotors without buying new brakes

[AlexN 7]

Time for a big update!

 

The project has taken a slightly different direction in the last few weeks, basically I am now not going to use the Peugeot gearbox and transfer box (as I first intended to do), but instead use a Mitsubishi Evo IV gearbox and transfer box! This may sound a little radical and also expensive thing do to, but actually it is not.

 

The two boxes cost me just over £400, and they will easily cope with the power my T16 engine will output. The cost of upgrading the Peugeot boxes was going to be more like £3000! The only difficulty is fitting the bell housing to the block. Basically there is an easy and relatively cheap way to do this (hundreds rather than thousands!), by making an adapter plate with both bolt patterns on. I am getting machined a spigot that will allow the crank line in the engine to perfectly align to the gearbox input shaft. The rest should be quite straightforward! The transfer box ratio is also almost identical (the difference is extremely minor!) to the Peugeot Torsen rear diff, and as the diff is the best/strongest part of the Peugeot drivetrain, being able to retain it makes the whole conversion so much easier. I have bought an Evo prop that I will get modified to fit the Peugeot diff, and I will need two front driveshafts which will have to be modified to fit the Peugeot hubs. All in all, pretty straightforward!

 

 

 

 

The crank will line up perfectly with the gearbox input shaft

 

Another advantage to running an Evo box is that there are no end of clutch options! Also you can run a sintered clutch without fear of trashing the gearbox/transfer box. So, I have gone out and purchased a rather nice QuarterMaster twin plate clutch and hydraulic release bearing, this should be good for more power than I can possibly imagine!

 

 

 

[AlexN 7]

I also got back today my head from a local engine builder. The valves have all been re-cut, the seats opened out and re-cut, some gas flowing done on both inlets and outlets, and new valve guides. It looks the business! I have just got to sort out the cam timing tang (get it swapped from the original T16 inlet to the Mi16x4 Peter Taylor regrind), then I have everything to rebuild the head, including a freshly purchased pair of Piper vernier cam pulleys. I will deliver the clutch/flywheel to the same engine builder next week so I can get the bottom end fully knife-edge balanced. I should have the engine fully rebuilt by the end of the month.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have started the process of getting the custom brake bells machined up, so it should be a few weeks then these will be complete. I still have a lot(!) of other things to buy/do before the project is finished, but progress is being made. Hopefully an October finish is realistic!

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

Good call on the EVO drivetrain, they are strong.

[AlexN 7]

Yeah, it shouldn't break and it will allow me to tune the engine further in the future.

 

A few more pics of the clutch for you!

 

 

[calvinhorse 870]

just when i thought this project could'nt get any better!!!

 

well done Alex! keep up the amazing work!

[cammmy 1]

I am very interested in the g/box conversion. Could think about something similar.

[AlexN 7]

I am very interested in the g/box conversion. Could think about something similar.

So far it has been pretty cheap, and hopefully the remaining work to get it to fit *should* be pretty straightforward!

 

Once I manage to align the gearbox perfectly with the crank then I can start to see any potential issues, like having to re-angle the engine slightly etc.

 

I will try and document the conversion as closely as possible for those who may be interested in trying something similar.

[imaS 0]

I found a few interesting parts for evo-gearbox, first and second one.

 

How much is the minor difference in the transferbox ratio?

[AlexN 7]

I found a few interesting parts for evo-gearbox, first and second one.

 

How much is the minor difference in the transferbox ratio?

They certainly are interesting, at least an interesting price! My reasons for doing this conversion are to actually save money and improve reliability, however maybe in the future I could upgrade the diffs to something like those. The nice thing about Evo's is there are no shortage of tuning parts! Changing the torque split might be quite interesting!

 

The ratio difference is like I said very small. The Mi16x4 rear diff/TB is 13x43 or 3.307, the Evo IV TB is 3.312. In fact Evo V and later are actually 3.307! I didn't know this before I bought one though!

[cammmy 1]

That second item has no centre LSD. Would that not be a disadvantage for motorsport?

 

Also, It would be AMAZING if you could document what needs to be done/modified

Edited June 22, 2010 by cammmy

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Alex, could you please advise whether the roll cage was built under a specific BTCC requirements with a blueprint or whatever?

This stuff is not available in Ukraine, so if I could get my hands on any info re building a roll cage, that'd be terrific!

 

thanks.

 

rodion.

 

[cammmy 1]

I would LOVE a blueprint if they are available. Would probably even purchase one if necessary.

[danrogers 0]

WOW! cant wait to see t finished! nice work bud

[James504 12]

I don't want to be a party pooper, what you have done is absolutely amazing. But that box is WHUGE!!! Do you know the firewall/ subframe clearences? That said, thats what angle grinders are for! Terrific build so far.

[welshpug 1,622]

they are around the 55 kilo mark IIRC, so not actually any heavier than a T16 ML gearbox and transfer box.

[cammmy 1]

How goes the mating of the gearbox? Also, what type of centre diff do these have?

[DRTDVL1345402287 0]

I still don't think that the rear brakes will need upgrading much at this time. I can save a bit of money (that's a novelty ) by using the original rears, but with some decent pads in.

 

Don't know if you could do the same or not, but i upgraded the master and front brakes on my 205 and found the rears doing jack because of the master cylinder size to rear caliper piston size ratio...

 

I took the 1.6 gti front calipers off the mounting bracket and it was a straight bolt onto the rear caliper mount (i can't remember the proper name sorry) - i run a hydro handbrake so i didn't have to worry about the loss of the cable handbrake. It was a free upgrade basically except the new brake lines i needed due to the brake line elbow on the caliper hitting the body work under full rear end compression.

 

Might be something to look at for the future if you can't get enough pressure out of the rear. You could fix it simply by fitting a pedal box with independent masters.

[AlexN 7]

I still don't think that the rear brakes will need upgrading much at this time. I can save a bit of money (that's a novelty ) by using the original rears, but with some decent pads in.

 

Don't know if you could do the same or not, but i upgraded the master and front brakes on my 205 and found the rears doing jack because of the master cylinder size to rear caliper piston size ratio...

 

I took the 1.6 gti front calipers off the mounting bracket and it was a straight bolt onto the rear caliper mount (i can't remember the proper name sorry) - i run a hydro handbrake so i didn't have to worry about the loss of the cable handbrake. It was a free upgrade basically except the new brake lines i needed due to the brake line elbow on the caliper hitting the body work under full rear end compression.

 

Might be something to look at for the future if you can't get enough pressure out of the rear. You could fix it simply by fitting a pedal box with independent masters.

It's good to know that the other Peugeot callipers will fit the rear but for now I am going to keep it simple and use the originals. The pedal box I have has independent master cylinders and I will have a remote bias adjuster fitted. I think for now that will do!

 

As for mating the gearbox to the engine things are starting to move on again and hopefully in a month or so's time the adapter plate will be made and the engine and gearbox mounted in the car. I will have to put a full update on here in the near future.

[cammmy 1]

PDF the process and send me a copy please