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M@tt

[engine_work] 205 Dimma 4x4 Gti6 Supercharged

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Tom Fenton

I'd better tell Carl to stop making the bits to replace the electro clutch then??

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M@tt

he was going to give us a price first wasn't he before he did owt?

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Tom Fenton

Ah you see I know what he is like, once there is a job on it must be done immediately at 100mph. He ordered some material but hasn't done anything yet, plus the material can be used for something else, so no worries.

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ilovemypug

ohh looks like its going to be a beast =) tearing up all the streets round you heheheh looking good mate, keep up the good work

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M@tt

charger snout turned up today, looks very bling with its blue anodised pulley :rolleyes: it's been treated to a full rebuild already, with a new coupler and bearing. I just need to pick the SC itself up from Tom and i can get it fitted whoop whoop

 

DSC00145.jpg

 

DSC00147.jpg

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M@tt

best laid plans and all that....

 

I got quite excited about my new snout so i set about swapping them over

 

the first job was to drain the oil from the supercharger

 

DSC00148.jpg

 

then it was a simple job of undoing the 8 bolts securing the end cover and giving it a few gentle taps with a hammer to release the cover

 

DSC00149.jpg

 

DSC00150.jpg

 

once the cover was removed it became apparent that things weren't going to be quite as straight forward as i had anticipated :lol:

 

There are 2 separate issues

 

Firstly, as you can see from this pic below one of the rotors has a long shaft with a splined end which was used to drive the clutch plate. I had thought this might be a separate shaft which was part of the end plate similar to the shaft in the new snout, but it is in fact just a single long shaft. This obviously prevents the new snout from fitting to the supercharger body as the snout needs the shaft to be the same length as the other short one. Tbh this isn't a massive problem in itself as it can quite easily be shortened.

 

The second problem is that the gear attached to the long shaft doesn't have the 3 prongs required to fit into the snouts plastic coupler which transfers drive from the pulley to the rotors. The coupler can be seen in the last pic in the previous post, it also serves to remove vibration and shock transferring to the rotors and potentially causing them to impact against each other as they spin.

 

DSC00151.jpg

 

The pulley required looks like the one in this pic

 

100_4017.jpg

 

I'm able to get new pulleys from the states for not a great deal of money, but its important when replacing the gears that they are pressed on at exactly the right position so that the rotors don't touch each other otherwise the charger will destroy itself in a pretty short length of time!! this is know as setting the rotors timing.

 

here's a pic of the rotors removed from the casing

 

DSC00152.jpg

 

and once this issue is sorted you can see what the charger will look like finished :angry:

 

DSC00153.jpg

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ilovemypug

hey what have you got cooking ??humm nham nham tasty supercharger right out of the oven?? hehehehehe

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madspikes

Dude, you must have some big balls to be pulling the charger to bits and to start changing pulleys like this!

 

Mad. :)

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brumster
either way i can either put the PAS pump down on the sump if necessary or fit an electric pump off a saxo as has been suggested

 

If it's any help, a lot of the competition boys are now looking at fitting electric PAS from a Corsa (year 2000+). This is basically a motor that fits on the steering column, allowing you to completely get shot of all the hydraulic gubbins up front. It also means you can go for fairly inexpensive quick racks that fit a standard non-PAS rack, without having to spend megabucks on a proper hydraulic quick rack.

 

Food for thought maybe, and would certainly free up a lot of space in the engine bay?

 

See you're having engine mount fun same as I did with my XU10 conversion!

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M@tt
Dude, you must have some big balls to be pulling the charger to bits and to start changing pulleys like this!

buster-gonad.preview.jpg

 

:ph34r:

Edited by M@tt

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Brian M

Just WOW! Read this from pg1-11 and you have some balls, I just hope it turns out well for you. Shame the original SC position didn't work out.

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M@tt

update time

 

rather than buying some new gears from the states AllanAllen kindly modified my existing one, fitting the 3 prongs needed to mate it to the coupler. Top job mate :D

 

SANY0165.jpg

 

with the new gear it was then a case of refitting it to the rotor shaft, however first i needed to shorten the long shaft to the same length as the other, so using a thin cutting disc on my angle grinder i removed the excess length. i wrapped the shaft in tape so i had a straigth cutting line to follow.

 

As i mentioned previously its importnant that the rotors do not touch when refitting the gear so to do this the simple trick is to put thick paper/ thin card between the rotors as this will keep them uniformally apart, you can then press on the gear with it all in the correct position

 

SANY0167.jpg

 

SANY0168.jpg

Is there nothign cable ties can't be used for?? :lol:

 

with the rotors all correctly spaced the gear could then be pressed onto the shaft

 

SANY0169.jpg

 

and then this mated up to the new snout

 

SANY0170.jpg

 

job done!

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M@tt

Tonights job was to have a look at the aux belt routing again.

 

I got a new XU10 engine mounting brackets set off James_R as this would allow me to mount the PAS pump at the bottom of the engine and with the smaller top mount it meant i would have more space up top to mount the supercharger.

 

SANY0171.jpg

 

However wit the smaller top mount it ws obvious that it would be tricky to mount any idler pulleys for the belt routing as there was nowhere really to attach them or to mount a plate with them on so i reverted back to fitting the orginal GTI6 engine mount but chopped off the bottom section so that i could keep the other XU10 PAS and alternator mount.

 

SANY0177.jpg

 

The top part of the mount will also be getting some chopping as the PAS mounting points are in the way of where the supercharger will be going but i need to plan that a bit more first as i don't want to take too much off being too gun ho!

 

with that bit of tinkering done for the time being i turned my attention to the inlet manifold. The idea is to use the orignial GTI6 manifold chopped down to give me more space. First job was to work out how long i was going to need the new manifold. As i've not got the engine in the car just yet i erred on the side of caution and marked the runners with plenty of spare length just in case. It was then a job for a thin cutting disc on a grinder and some hacksaw action

 

SANY0172.jpg

 

SANY0173.jpg

 

this left me with my new shorter runners which will get mated up to the inlet chamber again at a later point.

 

SANY0174.jpg

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All Praise The GTI

nice work mate. its good to see someone fabricating a unique setup like this rather then coughing up for a pre designed one.

keep up the good work <_<

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Galifrey

looking good Matt, wont need such a long induction with the S/C so makes sense.

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OlberJ

Is the inlet cast steel or alloy? Just wondering what you're going to make the box part of the plenum out of?

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welshpug
Is the inlet cast steel or alloy? Just wondering what you're going to make the box part of the plenum out of?

 

its alloy, and -

 

this left me with my new shorter runners which will get mated up to the inlet chamber again at a later point.
Edited by welshpug

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M@tt

another little update

 

did some more fettling of the inlet manifold

 

SANY0186.jpg

 

SANY0188.jpg

 

SANY0190.jpg

 

you can see the trumpets in the inlet plenum

 

SANY0192.jpg

 

Scrub my previous comment about not chopping the top mount :blush: after more trial fitting it was obvious its was going to have to come off so out came thre angle grinder again ;)

 

SANY0189.jpg

 

also i fired up my new favourite tool the pressure pot & sandbalster and cleaned up the rusty fuel rail :blush:

 

SANY0184.jpg

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OlberJ

Ah right, didn't realise you were re-using the GTi6 chamber, novel.

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M@tt

Finished chopping the remaining parts of the runners from the manifold.

 

I spent a bit of time with the file sander trying to get the surfaces as parallel and as flat as possible but what i could really do with is a linisher or larger belt sander but i can sort that a bit later

 

SANY0193.jpg

 

SANY0194.jpg

 

you can see from these pics the port sizes in the runners and in the entrance to the the plenum chamber are differnet sizes so once they are welded together it will need some "porting" to smotth the join so as to not hurt the air flow.

 

SANY0196.jpg

 

SANY0198.jpg

 

The plenum up against the shorter runners

 

SANY0206.jpg

 

SANY0207.jpg

 

i was hoping that i'd be able to shorten the runners even more but i found that with the idle control valve fitted it was already very close to the ECU temp sensor which is located in the thermostat housing. I had thought about moving the temp senor to one of the other slots and blanking the hole its in, but the problem is that the ECU temp sensor has a differnet thread to the other 2 sensors so can't go in any of the other 2 holes :(

 

SANY0205.jpg

 

SANY0201.jpg

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EdCherry

Can you not re-tap a hole, or even make a new one for the temp sensor?

Edited by EdCherry

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Henry Yorke

Perhaps a stupid question but one I am sure others were wondering.... how come there are 4 runners and 5 holes in the plenum? What are you going to do with the extra hole and what was meant to go there - a resonance box?

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M@tt

Ed> the hole size is the same as the others so i dont think i can retap the hole without completely buggering the threads up another hole might be a possiblitly (although additional expnsive cost :() or maybe find another sensor with the same calibration but different thread?

 

Henry> It's the hole for the resonator box that's usually attached to the underneath of the inlet manifold. As this isn't going to be used the hole can just be blanked off.

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EdCherry

Id make another hole, it wont be that expensive, im sure one of the locals like tom could help you out (he seems a well tooled up guy!) so you wouldn't even have to fork out for a tap possibly! Certainly a lot neater in my opinion and a better solution.

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welshpug

bloody typical, I thought all 3 were the same size too, obviously not from your pic and the data on servicebox.

 

ecu temp sender is 12mm x 1.5, other two above are 14mm x 1.25, doh!

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