[engine_work] 205 Dimma 4x4 Gti6 Supercharged

[309PUG 2 1 Cars]

Matt,

Steve at Sheffield engine services lightened my flywheel, but more importantly everything was dynamically balanced at MB Services Brightside.

 

Chris

[M@tt 77]

Miles there was a thread on 306gti6 forum by Rich-W (http://www.306gti6.com/forum/showthread.php?id=73807&page=last) where it was mentioned that the ARB bolts were worse than standard and only the uprated material ones were better but they didn't come in Peugeot sizes

 

PeterT, yeah thats the plan GTI6 SC onto 4x4. Will it go pop? guess we'll find out but i'm going to check the transfer box before building it to minimise any problem with the splines.

 

Cheers Chris i'll give them a bell and see what they have to say

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

ARP bolts worse than standard!!! I hope not, I've been using them for years!

[M@tt 77]

he along with another chap found that the threads stripped when tightening them before they got to the recommended torque. Maybe it was just bad luck/bad batch?

[welshpug 1,622]

or a broken torque wrench?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I;ve fitted loads and never had a problem (Touch wood), I have even tried on some old one's to tighten them up abit more than recomended without any problems too, For a thread to strip at around 45 ft lb's is just poor, Even a std M6 bolt can take that

[M@tt 77]

Matt,

Steve at Sheffield engine services lightened my flywheel, but more importantly everything was dynamically balanced at MB Services Brightside.

 

Chris

 

Tried MB Services yesterday Chris and the lad that does the balancing has setup on his own, and guess what, it's AMB Engineering who i tried previoulsy and wanted £130+vat!!!!

[BackStreetRacecars 3]

any progress on this matt??

[M@tt 77]

update time

 

i've shipped the crank, pistons, rods and flywheel of to Autosprint in Birminghm to be fully balanced and to have the flywheel lightenend so that should be back with me later next week. I've hread good things bout them and the chap Jeff i spoke ot on the phone was very friendly and helpful and also they were really reasonably priced for the work.

 

So in the mean time i spent some time today working on the engine.

 

I basically spent the day stipping down and cleaning the cylinder head.

 

 

After struggling trying to close the compressors by hand i struck upon the genuis idea of using a metal bar on the handle made the whole job a breeze! I wish i'd done that on the other engines i've built rather than suffer bruised hands and bashed knuckles

 

 

With the valves out the exhaust ones looked like they they will benefit from a good lapping!

 

 

I did the wiggle test on the valves in the guides and all appeard to be ok with no obvious wear or movement present.

 

With the head surface cleaned up lightly with some fine wet and dry it showed up some pitting around the fire rings so i think i'll get the head skimmed to be on the safe side before putting it back together. They can double check the valve guides for me as well at the same time

 

 

with the head all stripped down i decided to have a go at polishing the inlet ports. I realise it's probably not going to make a massive differene if any to a forced induction setup but i thought it couldn't hurt. So with my dremel and die grinder to hand i set about carefully just smoothing down the rough casting mark and polishing it up.

 

A couple of hours later i was done and i was pretty happy with the results

 

 

i could do with some more fine grit flap wheels to finish the polishing but its almost there.

 

i'll be on it again tomorrow so expect some more updates

[carbers205 1]

You only want inlet to 80 grit Matt, too shiny and you can lose the suspension of fuel particles in there and end up with less performance.

 

Andy

[M@tt 77]

Nice one Andy, i've been reading up more on it today at work and consensus was slightly rough for the inlet but the exhauxt track should be polished to a mirror finish to prevent carbon build up.

 

However as always theres always conflicting opinions and i did read an article that said "fuel puddling" as i beileve its called was only really an issue with carbs as with direct injection you tend to find the fuel is fired almost onto the back of the valves or at most just before the bend and doesn't really have a chance to puddle and the injectors do a better job of atomising the fuel

 

Thoughts??

[carbers205 1]

Yeah I can see the logic there, the injectors will fire pretty much onto the back of the valves. Still, it does seem the majority of people have gone 80 grit inlet and mirror finish exhaust, thats certainly what I went for anyway and it worked well.

Would be interesting comparing the performance of heads with different smoothness of inlet and exhaust ports just to see how much difference it actually makes.

Have you made sure the ports are matched at the join between inlet manifold and head? Also have you done any work to the short side radius of the inlet ports? This is the transition bend between the vertical and horizontal parts of the inlet, the 8v XU heads can have quite a sharp bend which can be smoothed out a little and increases air speed into the combustion chamber. Not sure how the standard 16v is though. Its easy to feel how sharp the transition is just using your finger, not much needs to be removed in order to make it better.

Edited April 8, 2009 by carbers205

[M@tt 77]

quick update

 

I've picked up my head from the machine shop where it had gone to have a light skim. Cost was £25+vat which was the common price i found after phoning a couple of places.

 

It only needed the lightest of skims, 6 thou i think he said, but it was worth it for peace of mind. They also checked all the valve guides for me and said they were fine, which is as i suspected, as there was no obvious tapping from the head and giving them a "wiggle" test myself didn't show up any obvious signs of wear.

 

 

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

Would it have been much more for them to give it a blast and degrease and a decoke?

[M@tt 77]

Oh and in response to your question Andy i've not port matched the head and inlet yet but i'm planning on doing that.

 

and with regards to the short side radius you can defeinitiely feel a bit of a sharp lip which would benefit for a little bit of smoothing. It wouldn't need much work as it's pretty good

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I really would get the valves done too, I;ve now had 2 running engine's that have had bent valves from having belts snap in the past, You can;t even see the bend it thats small

[carbers205 1]

Sounds like you've got it all under control Matt!

[M@tt 77]

I thought bad luck was supposed to come in 3's? Well not in my case

 

Starting Friday I managed to drop £30 out of my pocket on the way to the shot blasters to pay for my CTI hood frame so that wasn't a good start. Then our bloody hamster died on Saturday :lol:. Then on Sunday one of cats went mental and pissed and shat all over the bed! Great!! That should be it then surely? Well no

 

Today I received my parts back from Autosprint in Birmingham, however I had a problem with the courier sending them down in that the box split and they had to repackage all the bits. Well on receiving the parts back I found that several of the bits had been damaged

 

The clutch cover plate from my brand new clutch had received a massive dent in it, I’m guessing from the crank landing on it!!. Autosprint was unable to balance it anyway as it has the pull type bearing attached to it so was impossible to balance. I've managed to remove most of the dent out of it with some heat and pry bar/water pump pliers but I’m unsure whether I’ll use it yet.

 

 

 

Then I discovered one of the pistons had taken a bashing to the side and in turn had pinched one of the piston rings so that it wouldn't move. I tried all sorts to get it moving and was as gentle as possible but it wasn't happening and in the end the piston ring snapped as I tried to coax it out! FFS

 

 

 

I managed to run the broken piston ring round the groove till it could move freely again but I’ll now need new piston rings, grrr. So DHL will be getting a call tomorrow but I’ve got a feeling I’m only covered up to £50

 

Once I calmed down I made a start at putting the crank back in the engine

 

 

The new set of bearings to be fitted

 

 

No. 2 main cap with the thrust bearings fitted, note the grooves facing out wards

 

 

The grinding marks on the crank from the balancing procedure are quite clear to see

 

 

The crank back in place with the caps fitted.

 

 

I also had the flywheel lightened the machining was done on the back face and I think I'll have saved a couple hundred grams at least but I need to get it on my scales to double check.

 

 

So that’s about it for now, hopefully things will start to go better from now on

Edited April 20, 2009 by M@tt

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

There is no bad luck left; you've had it all Matt.

 

Chin up. Move on.

[willmounsey 1]

Unlucky couple of days mate that's a balls what happened to the clutch cover and piston (not to mention the bed and money )

Send the courier pics of the damage they should give you something since it was damaged whilst it was in thier hands.

 

I take my hate off to all on this forum for stripping engines and rebuilding, porting polishing and what knots i'd love to be able to do it myself but knowing me i'd feck up something along the way

 

Hope its all plain sailing for you here on out mate

 

Will

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Matt you know my thoughts on the clutch, however I've had a thought about a plan, give me a ring tonight.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

f***ing cat s*it bollocks

[Tom Fenton 1,525]

Haven't you sorted out that bloody cat yet anyhow

 

It wouldn't have got a second chance to s*it on MY bed I can tell you!!

[M@tt 77]

Well DHL won't entertain a claim as its been 14 days since the parcel was originally sent (and it says it on their terms and conditions when i booked the collection) so that's wank! Partially my fault i guess as i should have reported it sooner rather than wait to see what the damage was once it was returned but hey ho.

 

Good news is a set of new rings for 1 cylinder is £15.70 all in so that's not too bad i guess. I'm happy that i can get away with replacing just the 1 cylinders worth.

 

Tom, compared to how the dent on the clutch was when we inspected it yesterday it's a lot better, I'd say it's about 95% back to normal.

 

Obviously there's a worry that the dent will cause a horrible vibration when with the engine revs and possibly damage put undue stress on the crank and bearings. The dent would cause a vibration in the direction of the line of the crank rather than a up and down vibration, therefore the thrust bearings would probably take the brunt of it. I'll give you a bell later Tom

Edited April 21, 2009 by M@tt

[M@tt 77]

i picked up a new set of piston piston rings today only to find that they'd given me ones for a S16 set of pistons and wouldn't fit. The 2nd compression ring was too big, the S16 ones are 1.75mm thick but the GTI6 ones are 1.5mm. So they'll need to go back tomorrow

 

I checked the clearances between the crank and the new bearings with plastigauge and was happy to find that they were all the same and all within tolerance

 

 

after cleaning up the plasti gauge the caps we refitted and torqued up again

 

then it was onto fitting the No1 main cap which has the hockey stick seals as part of it. I used some RTV sealant to ensure it all seals correctly

 

 

the hockey stick seals are too long as standard so you need to cut them down so you have about 1mm protruding

 

 

 

Then it was a case of fitting the other end seal plate, making sure you remmeber to refit the oil pump sprocket and chain first . Some more RTV sealant was used on the mating face.

 

 

and the small seal was knocked home gently using a block of wood

 

Edited April 21, 2009 by M@tt