[engine_work] 205 Dimma 4x4 Gti6 Supercharged

[M@tt 77]

i managed to exchange my incorrect piston rings this lunchtime for the correct ones, so tonight i fitted them to the piston and then installed all the pistons and bearings

 

 

then i cleaned up the main engine mount and started mounting some of the parts back to the block

 

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Have you checked the end float as the Thrust washers come in a few different sizes

[M@tt 77]

yeah checked end float and it was all fine, original bearigs were STD size as were new ones and end float was in tolerance

[M@tt 77]

i spent some of this afternoon working on the cylinder head

 

i removed the existing valve stem oil seals with the help of some circlip pliers

 

 

i made sure i protected the hyraulic bucket hole surfaces with plastic whilst removing the seals so as not to damage the face

 

 

i decided whilst the head was off i'd also give the combustion chambers a polish up, so after an hour or 2 the went from this

 

 

to this

 

 

then it was just a case of lapping in the valves, the exhaust ones needed a couple of goes as the surfaces were pretty marked but sevaeral goes with some coarse grinding paste and my new eezi-lap on the electric drill had it sorted

 

[willmounsey 1]

What kind of attachments do you use when polishing up the ports and head?

Got an old 1.9 8v im going to attempt to re-build just woundering is there any tricks on carrying out this work?

 

Will

[calvinhorse 870]

M@TT this is all looking very sexy! top job dude! you seem to be shying away from the 4bie system tho?

[Tom Fenton 1,524]

Now then Pedro, I still have this way of fixing your clutch, and the parts to do it..........!

[calvinhorse 870]

Now then Pedro, I still have this way of fixing your clutch, and the parts to do it..........!

 

big hammer?

[M@tt 77]

Will > the best things to use are mini flap wheels of various grits (80 through to 320) B&Q do some polishing kits for dremel tye tools for about £6 which contain a couple of these flap wheels which are very handy.

 

Calvin> Not shying away from 4bie set up, its there right outside my shed and i trip over it everytime i walk past it, reminng me of the fun to come . I've got to finish the CTI first so i can swap it and the dimma/t16 around on the drive then i can make a proper start.

 

Tom> I'll give you bell in a bit, everytime i remember its about 11.30pm so a bit late i know how you need your beauty sleep

[willmounsey 1]

Will > the best things to use are mini flap wheels of various grits (80 through to 320) B&Q do some polishing kits for dremel tye tools for about £6 which contain a couple of these flap wheels which are very handy.

 

Thats sound think the bro has a dremel so i can pinch that.

 

cheers bud.

 

Will

[M@tt 77]

If he's not got a dremel i bought a silverline one off amazon market place for £16 delivered and it's worked a treat. It came with quite a few accessories as well

 

Back to the engine >

 

I decide to mount the alternator and PAS pump and found that it had a bit of weird setup. The alternataor had some sort of cobbled together tensioner so i binned that off and mounted it as standard. However ecame aparent that i was missing an additioanl tensioner which is why the alternator tensior had been used.

 

Looking at the how things sit as standard the supercharger will need to be positioned down near the sump or that alternative is to relocate the alternator to the sump and fit the supercharger where the alternator is at present, but i'll need to have a better play with it all in the week.

 

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

I cannot remember what the sump is like on these engines. Does it have the brackets on it like the finned ally Mi one which would be good for bolting the alternator / charger too?

 

Alternatively why not run an electric PAS pump and blob the charger on in is place? It seems to be a prime location and I guess these chargers will get quite warm so need some airflow.

[M@tt 77]

after speaking with Tom about my damaged clutch cover he came up with the idea of swapping the internals from mine into a spare undamaged cover that he has. It will be a simple case of drilling out the three rivets which hold the internals to the cover and then use some high tensile 6mm bolts with locking nuts or replacement rivets if i can get them to attach the internals to the new cover. Sounds like a nice simple solution so drilled out the rivets so that the internals are now separate

 

 

I then set about putting the rest of the bottom end back together

 

not pictured but was also refitted was the bottom of the oil dipstick tube which i loctite thread locked back into the block and is secured against the oil pump head

 

It was then a case of running sealant round the sump face and bolting the sump back on.

 

I've got the 4x4 rear engine mount bolted in place, it lines up perfectly with the existing XU10 holes (although the XU10 mount used 5 holes not 3) so there was no need for any modification there

 

 

I then got the itch to just have a quick play with the M45 Supercharger and see how it sits in conjunction with the other auxiliary items. As i mentioned earlier the 2 positions where it can realistically go are down on the sump where the air-con pump would go. Luckily the XU10 sump has the necessary mounting lugs which could be used to support mounting brackets.

 

In this pic you can see that the SC is just below where th oil filter would go and I've just sourced a remote oil filter setup which has a small plate attached to the block with the bulky filer and heat exchanger relocated to the gearbox so this should clear the supercharger in this position. The inlet on the end of the SC is quite close to the large lip/flange which is found on the GTI6 sump, but as i won't be using a 6 gearbox this lip can be ground off freeing up some valuable clearance space for possible inlet pipework.

 

I had position it pointing forward but space might be a it of a premium so the SC outlet might be better pointing upward but it will depend on what the oil filter adapter plate and pipes are like. You can also see better the large lip/flange on the sump in this pic

 

 

obviously this is not a working belt set up but it gives me an idea of the space i have to fit additional tensioners

 

The second option is to relocate the alternator further down by the sump and put the SC where the alternator was.

 

 

it does have some potential problems with hitting the oil filter adapter again

 

 

Also another major concern of this location is the fact that that it may impact the starter. I held the start flush with the end of the block and it looks like it would be very close. This is a worry as i actually intent on getting a larger m62 charger from a merc kompressor so this might rule out his location.. Another downside is that moving the alternator lower would mean it's more exposed to the elements and maybe more liable for failure although i guess you could build a simple protective shield to try and deflect some of the possible road spray. (although i think thats a minor concern in the scheme of things

 

 

Anyway some interesting things to ponder there anyway.

 

Hopefully i should have the head on it by the end of the week. I'm waiting on a female E14 torx socket as all replacement head bolts I've found are male rather than female and so i didn't have the correct bit to tighten up the bolts.

Edited April 28, 2009 by M@tt

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

good work winston much prefer your second idea as it will make the s/c pipework much easier. As henery says though electric power steering pump would make things simpler.

 

Some starter motors are smaller than others, it may be worth a trip to a scrappy and have a route round. I managed to find one that was around 20mm shorter than one that came off a 1.9 205.

 

remember you want as much belt wrap as possible around the charger as they can 'apparently' slip

[M@tt 77]

I received my remote oil cooler parts today thanks to luggy and wildcards.

 

I fitted it to the block to see how it would sit with the SC in it's various positions. The pipe work was alot bulkier than i imagined/remembered and infact it might not be any less bulky than the standard filter setup.

 

It pretty much rules out the SC going in the place of the alternator though i think especially as i definitely want to run a M62 SC which is bigger.

 

[cherry_red 0]

More power and room without power steering, or is that not an option??

[M@tt 77]

No i want to keep the power steering but i don't think using a saxo/106 electric setup and removing the current setup is realistically going to give me any more room as the charger can't really sit where the standard pump goes anyway.

 

I think fitting it down by the sump wll actually be do able after having another look tonight

[welshpug 1,621]

what about the earlier non-a/c engine mount brackets? they'd give you a lot more room to play with.

[M@tt 77]

is the one i've got not an AC one then? also is it only XU10 block mounts that will fit?

 

that said mountign the SC up that high isn't really going to be an option as i won't have enough space to fit a charge cooler in between it and the head or if i use an intercooler routiung the pipe work would be trickier i'm pretty sure.

 

No i 'm happy with it going down by the sump tbh. Although rather than butcher the GTI6 sump i'll see if i can swap it for another XU10 sump without the large lip on it that the 6 one has with the extra webbing/bolt holes for the 6 speed gearbox

[willmounsey 1]

Couldn't the PS pump be relocated under the SC so the SC is at the top of the engine and mounting the intercooler infront of the rad so pipe work for it is either side of the rad if you get me, or is that too much hassle?

 

Just a rookie suggestion, tyring to picture it in my head please put me in my place if i being stupid

 

Will

[hman205 1]

How about switching to Saxo PAS to give you more room in that area in general this would mean you could cut the engine mount about to remove that large lump off the front of the engine then you can move the alt up to a highter position and give you loads of room for the charger and pipe work

[mattbenselin 0]

You could mount the electric pump out of the way which would give you more to play with, at least it's an option...

 

[SurGie 54]

You could mount the electric pump out of the way which would give you more to play with, at least it's an option...

 

 

 

Nice idea, the battery will put more equal weight ditibution, if it in the boot.

[mattbenselin 0]

Yeah that's what I have done; a bonus and easy to wire in. I was going to mount the PAS pump in front of the gearbox to keep the CoG down as it's a little heavy but it was just easier to mount it on the battery tray. You could of course mount the pump inside the car or boot and have longer pipes made up. It makes a bit of noise but you don't notice once the engines running.

[M@tt 77]

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG over due update

 

Having spent quite a bit of time on the CTI i finally turned my attention back to the supercharged engine.

 

I sold my M45 supercharger pictured above to Calvinhorse a while back, so a couple of weeks ago i set about looking for a M62 supercharger. The M62 is found on quite a few American cars and are pretty plentiful over in the US of A but shipping and import costs were making it a bit uneconomical to buy one from over there and get it sent over, so the search continued for one from over here. The M62 is found on several models of Mercedes namely

SLK 230 Roadster (98-00)

SLK 32 Roadster (02-03)

C-Class C-230 (02+)

http://www.magnusonproducts.com/reman/reman-mercedes.htm

 

after several emails to various breakers and eBay alerts for people breaking SLK's i finally found one from a breaker in wales not wanting stupid money (a lot of places were quoting £300+ for one) and bagged myself one for £160 delivered.

 

 

As you can see on these Mercedes versions they have an electric clutch mechanism which allows the ECU to disengage the SC during about town pootling or gentle cruising so it's not boosting all the time hence improving fuel economy . However one thing I've noticed is that the pulley on this is a lot larger than the M45 one and if you compare it to the crank pulley it's not massively smaller which might cause a problem with getting it to spin at the correct speed. The SC's usually spin at about 14000/16000rpm so that means the pulley generally needs to be about half the circumference of the crank pulley, but that's obviously not the case at the moment. So I'll need to have a think about whether to ditch the clutch and fit a smaller pulley or look to fit a larger crank pulley but i guess that could have a knocking effect for the alternator and power steering pump.

 

One nice surprise though was that its actually smaller than the M45 i had. The rotors are physically longer than the M45's and so pump more air but the actual housing and pulley snout are a lot smaller.

 

So this afternoon i tried offering it up to the engine to give me some ideas about possible mounting brackets and belt routes

 

I was able to get it to sit in front of the sump without it hanging down lower than the bottom of the sump therefore avoiding ground clearance issues. Also you can see it doesn't stick further forward than the end of the inlet manifold which should bean i have enough clearance for the radiator as well.

 

and heres a few more pics of it in position and a possible tensioner setup i'll need to make

 

 

 

Edited August 22, 2009 by M@tt