Going To Play With Inlet Tract Length

[smckeown 1]

They do look clean inside, but not exactly polished.. Sorry me being a perfectionist again I have to work to

silly 'blemish/pin prick free' standards

 

Ah right I haven't touched the insides, they look fine really (to me anyway). I'd have thought in their current state it is smoother than a crappy mangoletsi manifold so no worries

 

Both can be acheived with flap wheels Sean. But yes i would advise a flapwheel for getting rid of that small lip. can get you a part worn one if you like

 

Ok useful to know a flapwheel is what I need to get rid of the lip. I defo have one of those lying around somewhere..cheers

[smckeown 1]

So sam,

 

what grit do you recommend to sand/port the ID to take it out rfom 44mm to 45mm ?

 

This is what i've been lookin at. Can't find the one I boought:

 

 

The 50mm diameter one would be good right ? as that would squeeze inside and made a good centre sand

 

They offer 60,80,120 and 180 grit. I've also seen the scotchbrite finishing flap wheels like these:

 

[sonofsam 5]

 

That finish was acheived with 100 grit garnet paper soaked and resoaked in parrafin to stop it picking it up,

Then by smearing talo/candle wax all over the spinning and using the scothbrite flapwheel/ .sheet as i was using.

 

I could of taken it much further, but I had 150 of them to do, so..

 

But yes 50mm dia will be fine, they do squeeze down a bit as you said. but you can also buy 25mm dia ones.

I would say 80 grit to remove lip and give a good finish at the same time, but then you could take it upto 120, then onto the scotchbrite wheel with lots of talo/candle wax/brasso.

 

Trick is to get a good mat non scrathed surface, then bling it with scothbrite wheel, and keep the wheel moving all the time inside the pipe.

[smckeown 1]

But yes 50mm dia will be fine.

I would say 80 grit to remove lip

 

Sweet cheers!

[smckeown 1]

I've been sanding today wit hthe flap wheels. Both the ends have cleaned up and the inner tube:

 

 

[smckeown 1]

Well here's a pic of the spacer post anodizing. Need to add the studs and rubber washer now. Not all of them came out well, but hey ho. Might try a different method next time to assembly

 

 

[smckeown 1]

some more pics...

 

 

 

 

[Rik 0]

Saun - looks fantastic, alot of work gone into this, its inspirational,

 

Am loking at trumpets etc myself and have chosen a certain length, what air filter are you running?

 

And do you know what clearance the filter need from the mouth of the trumper/air horn jobbie?

 

Rik

Edited April 16, 2007 by Rik

[smckeown 1]

Saun - looks fantastic, alot of work gone into this, its inspirational,

 

Am loking at trumpets etc myself and have chosen a certain length, what air filter are you running?

 

And do you know what clearance the filter need from the mouth of the trumper/air horn jobbie?

 

Rik

 

Cheers,

 

I've almost finished all 28 of them (all in 20mm, 30mm and 40mm lengths). They were sent away this morning actually to get bored out to be 45mm perfect, apparently 44.3mm just doesn't cut it

 

I'll be happy to lend them out to forum owners to play with tract length on the RR. You'll then need to get some made up permenantly. I'll be speaking to a few suppliers when I get mine done, as they will need to be welded etc. So these glued ones are just temporary for the RR - still a very effective method though.

 

I'm getting a custom airbox made, am not trusting pipercross again!

 

I have read something about the minimum distance between the end of the trumpet and the start of the filter, 50mm comes to mind but worth searching

[Sandy 189]

Here are those SF spacers btw:

 

http://temp.noboost.com/sandy/SFSpacers.jpg

[Rik 0]

What happened with Pipercross then?

 

Rik