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Mi Baffle Sump

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Henry 1.9GTi

thanks livelee :unsure:

 

i take it this is the setup you are running?

I have the engine on a stand so i can do it all relatively easily so was thinking bout going the whole way with the wetsump setup as per petert :

 

For the best in OEM wet sump oil control to suit an XU9 engine, this is what you need:

 

XU10 sump

XU9 15mm spacer plate (with new ribs to suit windage tray)

S16/GTi6 windage tray

XU10J4 26T crank sprocket

XU10J4 chain

XU10J4 chain guard

XU10J4 pump

+ an extended pump pickup

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Livelee
Livelee, what does the standard oil pressure guage look like when its dropping this low? is it in sync with aftermarket one at all?

 

My standard gauge always read MAX. In 10 months i'd never seen it move. After fitting an oil cooler at max revs the standard gauge dropped from max to about 75%. This was when I decided to fit an aftermarket gauge. The standard gauge has been unplugged now. Personally i'd never trust the standard gauge. Aftermarket sender for the warning lights and a mechanical gauge is the best solution. My vids are linked in here for anybody wanting to see how much a gauge will move on the track: http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...pid=625902&

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James_m

Thats worrying isnt it :) Think i will have to invest in decent oil temp and pressure gauge.

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Dazza
I wondered how you got it down to 15-20psi! I'd only ever tested it with semi-slicks.

 

The spacer plus the deeper sump gives the greater oil capacity, which of course is good for cooling as well. I managed to get 6.5L in mine, dipstick mark, but of course there would be slight variations depending on how much external plumbing you have.

 

PETERT whats your thoughts on 15psi are we entering the danger zone of oil shortage to the shells here ?Given the quoted 70psi average .

 

XU10 sump (gti6) ? ive got a spare S16 tin sump with the trap door baffle fitted ,is this ok to use ?

Together with the extended pick up from you pete ?

Edited by Dazza

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smckeown
PETERT whats your thoughts on 15psi are we entering the danger zone of oil shortage to the shells here ?Given the quoted 70psi average .

 

I would have thought so, as most early warning systems are set to 35-45 PSI, and the OE stop light comes on at ~10 PSI I have read.

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Livelee
I would have thought so, as most early warning systems are set to 35-45 PSI, and the OE stop light comes on at ~10 PSI I have read.

 

Unfortunately there's not alot more I can think of doing really.

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petert

If you can make it pull 15 psi @ 4500 rpm with slicks, then the next step is dry sumping I'm afraid. The minimum pressure will ultimately depend on the driver/car/track. From the videos it didn't sound like you were pulling many revs through the slow corners. More revs may have held the pressure up. I probably wouldn't ever let the revs slip under 4500 under any situation on the track.

 

The best insurance is an adjustable hobs (pressure) switch and a big red light. Set it to 30 psi then you can really keep an eye on what's happening without having to glance at guage.

 

Are you running the 26T sprocket?

Edited by petert

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smckeown
The best insurance is an adjustable hobs (pressure) switch and a big red light. Set it to 30 psi then you can really keep an eye on what's happening without having to glance at guage.

 

Yep this is what I added in the new car. Thinkauto sell their adjustable pressure switch (i've just taken mine off to go ECU controlled). I also found the warning lights they supply simply not bright enough, so a bright LED improved things dramatically.

 

Every track car should have one of these systems IMO

 

Sean

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Livelee
From the videos it didn't sound like you were pulling many revs through the slow corners. More revs may have held the pressure up. I probably wouldn't ever let the revs slip under 4500 under any situation on the track.

 

That's a good point. On my next outing i'll do my best to keep the revs up.

 

Are you running the 26T sprocket?

 

No. I did get an XU10 pump, sprocket etc with my sump. However I had 1 evening to fit it all with the engine in the car. Doing the pickup was easy but I didn't fancy doing the pump and sprocket as well. Also the pump was full of metal so I didn't really trust it, looks like the previous owner had a severe failure.

 

If you tell me the sprocket can go on the UX9 pump and it can be in with the engine in the car, and it will help the pressure, i'll do it.

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petert
If you tell me the sprocket can go on the UX9 pump and it can be in with the engine in the car, and it will help the pressure, i'll do it.

 

The sprocket goes on the crankshaft, not the pump. This will make the pump spin 18% faster. You'll also need the longer 2L chain.

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Livelee
The sprocket goes on the crankshaft, not the pump. This will make the pump spin 18% faster. You'll also need the longer 2L chain.

 

Ahh, Saturday afternoon job or does the engine have to be taken apart?

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SweetBadger
Ahh, Saturday afternoon job or does the engine have to be taken apart?

 

It can be changed with the engine in situe but you'll need to take the crank pulley off, then the side plate thingy that the smaller crank oil seal sits in to be able to slide the sprocket off.

 

So you'll at least need to replace the gasket for the side plate and you might aswell replace the crank oil seal while you've got it out... I'd leave at least a day for this job!

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C_W
If you can make it pull 15 psi @ 4500 rpm with slicks, then the next step is dry sumping I'm afraid. The minimum pressure will ultimately depend on the driver/car/track. From the videos it didn't sound like you were pulling many revs through the slow corners. More revs may have held the pressure up. I probably wouldn't ever let the revs slip under 4500 under any situation on the track.

 

 

That's a good point. On my next outing i'll do my best to keep the revs up.

 

I'm not sure I agree with this, surely the revs won't make any difference; or possibly more revs may just use/pump up the oil faster? If the oil is not there, or only partly there and its sucking air, extra revs doesn't necessairly help and puts the engine more at risk I'd have thought.

 

The problem with mega revs on slow speed corners is that it's often not necessary IMO, there's a chicane at Castle Combe (the last one before the last corner) that many people drop down to 2nd gear for, shedding too much speed with engine braking (even if you try and match the revs) when it can be flicked through in 3rd with less drama.

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JR20516V

Does someone have the part # for the XU10 j4 oil sump...i'm getting conflicting reports.

I have been told to try part # 0301.c4 ???

 

Cheers for any guidance. John

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