Mi Baffle Sump

[Guest 205_aCe]

Does any one have any diagrams of where in the sump to weld a baffle in (home made type btw) its the tin type not alloy? any help appreicated cheers

[petert 583]

steel or alloy, there's only one place to put it. Also fabricate a pump baffle, as fitted to XU10 engines.

Edited May 19, 2005 by petert

[Guest 205_aCe]

thanxs for the pics but do you have any better quality ones there not very clear

[petert 583]

that's as good as it gets. Here's an XU10 sump as well.

[Mandic 0]

http://www.mi16.nl/pictures/mods_sump/xu9j4z_sumpbaffle.jpg

 

http://www.mi16.nl/pictures/mods_sump/custom_sumpbaffle.jpg

 

http://www.mi16.nl/pictures/mods_sump/xm_aircosump1.jpg

 

http://www.mi16.nl/pictures/mods_sump/xm_aircosump2.jpg

[Guest ste]

Mine is nothing like those, it's a horizontal design like the PTS one, but welded across the sump rather than being sandwiched.

 

It's made by Preptech and I have the second one ever made. I'll get a price and some details if you like?

[evouk 0]

Please let me know the costs, i need to sort some more baffling otu on my mi16

 

 

It's made by Preptech and I have the second one ever made. I'll get a price and some details if you like?

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[Hilgie 16 2 Cars]

Check out this:

 

http://freetuning.free.fr/racing/preparationculasse16s.htm

[petert 583]

Check out this:

 

http://freetuning.free.fr/racing/preparationculasse16s.htm

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I wonder why they go to all that trouble and still use the heater bypass?

[Col 0]

theres pics of mine thats fitted to the laser green in the link in my signature

[Rik 0]

can anyone put that in english?

 

Rik

[sorrentoaddict 1]

you don't want to understand it, believe me ...

 

what a weird way to destroy a MI head...

[niklas 1]

you don't want to understand it, believe me ...

 

what a weird way to destroy a MI head...

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But does it work or not?

[petert 583]

When I dry sump my 16V I'm going to scavenge the back of the head, exactly as in the pictures/diagram.

[gti_al 1]

Is it worth fitting a baffled sump as a precaution in an Mi16...? I've heard that in the 8 valve engines it isn't worthwhile unless you encounter surge, but i don't want problems when i take my Mi16 out for the first time.

 

(If this is a noob question it is because i'm new...sorry in advance!)

[Ahl 4]

It really depends on what you're using the car for. It won't blow up the first time you go round a bend, regardless of what the scaremongerers like to peddle.

 

If its a trackcar, then it probably is worthwhile, especially if the track has highspeed long sweeping bends or your running slicks.

 

If its a roadcar then you might be alright. Its easy enough to remove and modify the sump if you decide you need to, and its not like the engine will destroy itself on a bend. You'd have to drive it *really* hard to get critical oil starvation.

[gti_al 1]

It really depends on what you're using the car for. It won't blow up the first time you go round a bend, regardless of what the scaremongerers like to peddle.

 

If its a trackcar, then it probably is worthwhile, especially if the track has highspeed long sweeping bends or your running slicks.

 

If its a roadcar then you might be alright. Its easy enough to remove and modify the sump if you decide you need to, and its not like the engine will destroy itself on a bend. You'd have to drive it *really* hard to get critical oil starvation.

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Thanks for that. I have been warned about getting it done because a track close to me (Phillip Island) has some long sweepers, and everyone says that it only takes one corner and you will destroy your engine from oil starvation.

 

Anyway, at the moment i reckon my tyres would give out long before the engine will starve itself that badly...

[crf450 0 1 Cars]

Perco,I'll give someone a go on my wife for the chance to drive my Pug round Phillip Island,.

I think I may be one of the scaremongers that Ahl is referring to, I can only comment about my own experiences on track and people that I know with Mi conversion.

Fact, I had to change my bearing shells every other track day I did with my old engine due to surge. Another Mi'd 205 I bought did 5 laps round Donington before it spun a shell and bent the crank due to surge.

My mate Nick of this forum did his second track day the other day and spun a shell and bent the crank, these are on engines that had ran happily for years on the road before being taken on track.

Me and some of the other lads off here have come to the conclusion oil surge is directly related to how hard you are capable of pushing you car on track or to put it in laymen's terms, if you can drive or not

Cheers Martin

[Alan_M 66 1 Cars]

When I built my Mi16, I swopped the oil pressure relief spring for a GrpA one off PTS Special Tuning.

 

Along with PTS sump baffles, I was still getting surge on the Ring, losing maybe about 3bar at most in places. Thankfully, the GrpA spring gave me that extra safety margin, so at worst I still had 2bar showing on the gauge (However reliable that is ).

 

The springs about £5 I think.

 

Me and some of the other lads off here have come to the conclusion oil surge is directly related to how hard you are capable of pushing you car on track or to put it in laymen's terms, if you can drive or not

 

[crf450 0 1 Cars]

In a hot engine/hot oil/on track situation it's almost impossible and very unlikely that a group A spring will help, but it is very possible that a group a spring can make matters worse.

Cheers Martin

[petert 583]

I also can't see how the spring would make any difference. If there's no oil around the pickup, there's just no oil to pump.

 

I think Martin summed it up beautifully. It all depends how hard you go.

[evouk 0]

Has anyone had the oil warning light come on when braking hard in a straight line.

[Jay 1]

Yes but that was an emergency stop and the oil level was just on the minimum mark.

Edited May 26, 2005 by Jay

[evouk 0]

that explains it, do any of you chaps run with the oil level slightly over the mark?

[JamesLumley 4]

I'm with Martin on this one,

 

I've spun shells and wrecked 3 Mi engines in the last rally season alone.

 

Each time its spun shells, wrecked the crank, rods and even a holed block! It does'nt help that I keep going even when I can hear the tell tale knocking of a shagged engine - annoying normally either the first or last stage of an event.

 

I have a 15psi low oil pressure light and its on all the time when were out on stage.

 

The engine runs at the correct angle, baffled sump, and I use 1 1/2 litres of 15w60 extra oil in the sump.

 

Each one is carefully rebuilt with new everything before being fitted in the car so its not old bearings etc.

 

I have just got an accusump to try and help out as i'm skeptical of the dry sump system. Its unlikely to solve the problem but it will hopefully help.

 

I am tearing my hair out after just spending nearly another grand on a new engine for the next event. If the accusump does'nt help I'm ripping the whole lot out and putting a bike engine in there!