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Andy

[Car_Upgrade] Yet Another Mi16 1.9 Build

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Andy

Cheers Peter. Quite enjoyable work but one needs to concentrate . The costs of the various connectors, sleeving , adhesive lined heat shrink, cable starts to add up too. Reckon I spent the equivalent of two weeks cycling to do it (20 hours for those who do not understand cycling chronology ) 

Andy

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Andy

I hope not, unless you mean the ring terminals . They connect to my fuse box via screws rather than spades, and are then covered by a Perspex lid . These after market items are never as good as o.e stuff but the other options I found for fuse boxes used spade  terminals which I like even less . This box has 12 earth terminals and 2x6 individually fused  supply rails which has been handy for coils, injectors, ecu and lambda sensor . Then I have seperate fused relay switched supplies for the fans, fuel pump ( both ecu controlled ) and a rad switch trigger for the fans as a backup which also keeps them running if the engine is stopped and ignition off . I have also used the fuel pump relay to trigger the coil relay , so the latter are only live if the pump is running .

 No car progress today. Off out with a mate to see how close we can get to a hundred miles and have a stop at a pub , all before tea time ( well, 6.00pm when I promised I would be home ) 

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Andy

Starting is getting closer. Ecu connected up. Crank and cam signals good. Ecu has test run the coils, the injectors, the fuel pump , the fans and the Rev counter . Cranked over and oil pressure rose to 25psi , so that will do. Few more tests to do after laptop has recharged, then I just need a cooling system and I think I can try starting it 

10E5A5DB-0BCB-4ACE-91B7-EEC37A34C792.jpeg

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petert

I see you have an XU10 fuel rail there, nicely painted red. We've been having a lot trouble with them, mostly due to the increase of ethanol in our fuel. They rust wickedly on the inside and block the injectors in no time, as the inside is uncoated mild steel.

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Andy

Funnily enough, I have just had to remove my nicely painted fuel rail as one of the -6 jic welded on ends was weeping very slightly under pressure . I would not mind but I 

paid someone to tig weld on the ends some time ago.Now need a repeat performance . Grrrr.  I see what you mean about the inside . I did thoroughly clean  but it is just bare steel . On the other hand Peter, so are my under car fuel lines.They are anodised on the outside but not inside . Better lay off the ethanol ! 

Waiting for a new top radiator hose . ECU back with Motorsport electronics . I had told them that I was using TTL logic COP but they must have forgotten that as they need the ecu to internally modify . Should only be a few days , so in the meantime, I can fit my shiny new headlamps and indicator lamps from Speno and figure out a location for the oil cooler ( also from Speno) . In Derbyshire on Thursday it was 32C . I made the mistake of being out on my bike for several hours and suffered. The point is that an oil cooler ( for the car, not the bike ) all of a sudden is perhaps not such a bad idea .

 

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Tom Fenton

Andy, I’ve found silver solder is better than Tig for this sort of job.

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petert

We've just had a change in the law here, that has changed the content of silver solder. Now cadmium free. I use to buy 45% Ag, which flowed beautifully and melted at approx. 650 deg.C. The new stuff is more like a brazing rod and won't flow until near red hot. Such a shame WHS has entered the scene.

Edited by petert

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SRDT

Maybe you can try TIG brazing so that you don't heat the whole thing.

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Andy

Thanks for this. Ends removed. Going to try silver solder followed by a repaint ! Will let you know. Spent the afternoon sorting out a screen wash . The ECU has evicted the o.e screenwash bottle plus location, so a bit of a fiddle . Photographs to follow .

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jackherer

If you don't have a sunroof you can fit the OE screenwash bottle in the scuttle area on the near side where the sunroof vac tank fits.

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Andy

Got a sunroof and hence the vacuum tank , neither of which I particularly wanted, but they came withthe car!!!

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Andy

Right. Windscreen washer bottle. Went into ‘old fart’ mode and rescued a Mocal oil catch tank that had been retired to the loft and modified it to take the washer pump from the o.e bottle . Even got a plastic cap from another washer bottle, cut it a bit, glued it to the top of the catch tank cap, quick spray of yellow paint ( plastic primer first of course!) and I have a working washer system.  The capacity is not exactly , err, generous ,  but it does the job, and only used bits I had lying around. 

Next, fuel rail. Peter got me thinking . I started to repair my GTI6 rail and did note  that the inside was pretty minging . Then discovered that I had a plastic rail from an xu10j4R engine that I bought recently. Few mods and some fiddling around with fuel pipe to get from rubber to stainless braided teflon but it looks as if it will work and is nice and clean inside . No bling red of course, but hey ho. 

FE6FB793-F7D9-4EAC-91DF-C41ABC03AE71.jpeg

2953F900-E9BE-490C-9AC2-902EF3C6BC18.jpeg

1F45196F-DF30-40A7-9886-1369BCCE799B.jpeg

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mmt

Looks nice! 

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Tom Fenton

Have you trial fitted the bonnet, that yellow cap looks stuck quite far up to me?

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Andy

Yep. Auto bonnet so plenty of clearance there. Throttle cable is the close one .

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Andy

Bit more progress.

6FA36268-FF60-49D1-A4BE-A177F7FC1A83.jpeg

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Andy

It does not look like much, but I was not happy with the throttle linkage so fished out a Jenvey throttle linkage kit I had and fitted it . I think I have spent about 6 hours modifying it, sorting the cable and getting it to work on my throttle bodies bought from GBS in Ollerton (Notts) . All the hoses on and coolant in the system, so  just need a couple of jic fuel connectors which should arrive tomorrow and I am ready to see if the bloody thing will start .

 

E7C88EA3-BCD6-41F5-BD78-F3062012FD7F.jpeg

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welshpug

that looks particularly complicated :unsure:  is the quadrant on the end body one thatll accept a cable too?  thats usually in the middle!   I went straight to the bodies, with a noodle like you have there, no linkage.

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Andy

Hi.Yes . The quadrant on the end does accept a cable, which his how I rigged it at first . However, as the cable was pulling vertically, I used a 90 degree bend from the brake from a bike . It worked , but it was flimsy and the 90 degree bend was poorly locate and supported . What’s more the fuel lines got close to the cable operation , hence the mark 2 version. The cable route is pretty good and the 90 degree bend is now properly supported  but the actual linkage is a bit of a nightmare . It would have been much easier if the operation had been in the centre, as per Jenvey bodies 

However, I cannot help feeling that somehow I have turned what should be a simple job into something far more complicated ( see alternator mounting , I have form ) 

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Andy

Mk 3 version installed. New fuel rail enabled different route for fuel lines, so I have gone back to a direct pull on the quadrant on the end of the bodies, but with a more supported 90degree bend . Bigger problem is figuring out these COP from the 306s16 . I thought they were TTL logic and so configured the ecu accordingly . Well, a 5v trigger does not energise the coils. Snag is that grounding the trigger pin produces a big current drain but no spark. Bit non-plussed at the moment . 

Chevy coils Peter ?

 Andy

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welshpug

don't think I've ever seen anyone on here use S16 type coils with aftermarket management, most typical arrangement is a wasted spark coil and leads.

 

S16 wiring from memory is 12v switched live, trigger and earth, trigger originally going via an ignition amplifier, receiving a 2v output from the ecu, i'm not familiar with how they work exactly, whether they pull the coil to earth indirectly or not.

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petert

S16 coils are ok, but expensive and not many around as they're not used in many other vehicles. The standard arrangement is direct fire, triggered by a pair of two channel ignitors. See attached.

XU10J4 coils ecu ignitors.jpg

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Andy

Thanks for the replies . The igniters you show Peter look as if they switch the coils to earth. I am pretty sure now that these S16. Coils behave in this way. I was trying to trigger them with a 5v pulse ( TTL ) and getting nowhere . The motive for using them was that they fit nicely into the s16. Cambox cover . If I can get them to work, I will use them, but I think that my ecu will need to go back to Motorsport electronics to have its coil output stages altered. It is equipped  with 8 high current coil drivers , but I asked that mine be configured to drive TTL coils . Bugger . Either that or go down the waster spark/ coilpack option or Chevy LS1/2 coils . If I do the latter, do you have a link to the appropriate ones. There seem to be lots !

Andy

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petert

So the ecu ignition outputs can’t be configured to switch to ground in the software? Even LS1 coils are pulled to ground. I’m not aware of any other cop that is a direct fit in the S16 cam cover. Keep us posted.

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Andy

The software should be able to be used to configure the coil outputs, but for the moment that particular checkbox in the software is greyed out, so I cannot change it. Call to the manufacturer on Monday. As for other COP, I too have failed to find any equivalent. As for the Chevy LS1/2 coils , the ones I looked at were 4 wire TTL coils. That is, they had a main switched 12v supply, ground, 5v logic pulse from the ecu and logic ground. The 5v pulse activates  the gate on the internal MOSFET which then switches the 12v live to ground. That is , the internal MOSFET does the heavy lifting. The ecu just provides the 5v low current trigger . The seperate logic ground was there to avoid 0v offset when the coils conduct as a current drain north of 10A could cause a ground offset . So they look like an option . I have run into another minor snag with the S16 coils. I had not planned to use the v shaped cover that sits on the cambox and covers the coils. What I had not reckoned on is that this cover holds the coils in place . Not enough forward planning on my part .

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