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Andy

[Car_Upgrade] Yet Another Mi16 1.9 Build

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Andy

A little more progress. I have fitted and wired in my Epas steering column, so that job ticked off, started some sanding down and spent an absolute fortune on cables, plugs sleeving , relays  etc and some replacement pins from Peugeot so I can fully rewire all the awful wiring that goes from the fuse box to the engine bay for lights, indicators, wipers etc. Oh, also bought some new capitive nuts for the subframe mounting to replace the two broken ones 

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Tom Fenton

Andy whilst you are at this stage I would have a very good look at that seam across the bottom of the bulkhead. I've seen lots of cars now where it is in poor condition with the spot welds pulling apart. With the carpet etc out you can stitch weld it from the inside and then re seal.

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Andy

Thanks for that advice Tom. I am going to have to do some work on the tunnel to gain clearance for my exhaust manifold, that will be a good time to take up your suggestion and look very carefully at that seam. 

Andy

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Andy

A bit more progress on the bay . All rubbed down and finished with 320 grit. Front panels replaced ( I bought a complete aftermarket front panel and then pulled it apart as the fit was not great ) but I have not put the bottom rail back on just yet. 

On the engine front, the block is bored to 87.00mm and decked to 234.8mm. Wiseco pistons ( bespoke) on order and Fardon Rods( also bespoke ) on order too. 

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Andy

And many hours later ........ Just need the lacquer now and the @#£*+-@# bodywork is done .

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barneys66

Nice, nice, nice. 

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Andy

Thank you. I do not like doing the bodywork and paint stuff. I have a compressor and spray  gun, but opted to,use rattle cans, mainly because the off the shelf ‘Industry Grey ‘ from Halfords is the correct paint code and the colour match is excellent . I still have to rub it all down again before I lacquer , but I will give it a few days to harden off a bit before attacking it with scotchbrite ( or 800 grit ) 

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Tom Fenton

Andy if you want my advice, use proper 2 pack lacquer. Stuff from cans is just not durable enough. Especially in the engine bay. 1 fuel spill and your spray can lacquer will be off.

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Andy

Hi Tom. I would love to use 2 pack but I do not have the right breathing / filtering mask to use that stuff safely ? As I understand it, 2 pack uses isocyanates . I used Rustbuster ‘ epoxymastic ‘ on the underside of the wheelarches . That is a 2 component product. I have to say that once it set, it is exceptionally hard . If you have some advice on the use o 2 pack, I am keen to learn. 

Andy

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Tom Fenton

As you are now (whether you like it or not) a member of the Yorkshire and Derbyshire Bastards (tm), you can borrow my air fed mask.

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Andy

Cheers Tom. That may well be a very useful offer. I will just check what my body shop mate in Ashbourne can do for me first .

 

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wicked

The paint shop over here can make 2pack rattle cans for paint and clear coat. They have a kind of release at the bottom of the can that will, once pulled, mix the 2 pack. You need to use them completely the same day. 

 

Could be an option for to use 2pack clearcoat over the current paint? You need to let the 1k paint harden for 2 weeks before you can apply 2k clearcoat on top of it. 

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Andy

Wow. That sounds handy. I will go and visit my local body shop paint suppliers and see what they have available. 2k rattle cans would be a neat option 

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Kane

You’d still run into the same health hazards using these though surely? Unless it’s a non-isocyanate hardener used?

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Andy

True. Another question to ask at the paint suppliers on Monday 

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Tom Fenton

I have heard of these aerosols but the issue for me is that in order to allow the propellant in the can to spray the contents, the product is necessarily thinner/less viscous. This means what you lay down on the surface is thinner and not as durable. You cannot beat proper 2 pack lacquer from the gun for durability. I’ve sets of wheels I have done that will still clean up as good as the day I lacquered them 8 or so years ago. Given the time and effort to get to the stage you are at, do it properly.

 

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Andy

Hi Tom,. Good point on the aerosol. I am off to the paint suppliers tomorrow so will see what advice and products they offer. I have seen non isocyanate 2K paint , but it seems that the non toxic hardener in effect converts the paint to a 1k air drying lacquer , so of limited use . I agree that having taken an hour or two (!) to prep the engine bay, I definitely do not want to be repainting it in two years time, and I do want a finish that is going to resist the odd oil/ petrol/antifreeze / brake fluid mishap . On the other hand, given that one access to my garage is directly via the kitchen, filling the house with isocyanate vapour is a plan with at least one drawback 

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Tom Fenton

Tape the door up to the house, compressor outside so it’s drawing fresh air in, air fed mask, spray then leave it overnight, the vapour will have dropped out by then. Cover everything in the garage you don’t want lacquer mist settling and drying on. 

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Andy

Sounds like you have done this before. !If it stays dry for the next couple of days, I am tempted to push the car just outside , so that the engine bay is just in the garage doorway ( front is on a dolly so nice and easy to move about ) , spray, then get it back inside  , heat on, taped up doorway as suggested , retire indoors for a coffee and try to look innocent

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petert

Good plan. That's how I'd do it. Can you spray the 2K over what you've done already?

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Andy

Afternoon/ evening Peter,

 I hope you had a really good christmas , with plenty of cycling Km now under your belt. As for 2k over 1k, that should not be a problem . As I understand it, it is not unusual to use a 1k ( or water based ) base coat and a 2k lacquer . However, I will experiment on a bit of the bay ( ie front panel) just to check no disasters await . On the engine front, now just waiting for Wiseco and Robson’s to perform their respective magic and I am ready to build something to put in my engine bay. Mind you, got a 16v engine and an 8v engine to do for other people , so mine is definitely number three on the list 

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Andy

Spraying done as per guidance from Tom. Spray gets everywhere but pleased with the result.

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Andy

Wiring progressing slowly. I have rebuilt all the engine bay wiring back from the fuse box, so a bit time consuming. Some photos to follow. However, shiny bits arrived this morning in the shape of a set of Robson Rods. I just need my pistons from Wiseco to arrive and I will have all the bits!

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Andy

I should have added this in my  last post. I have never dealt with Robson engineering before. I did check that they produce their own forgings to a clearly documented and traceable specification, but that is an aside. I contacted them about three weeks before Christmas with an enquiry. They got back to me within two days with a quote for the rods I wanted. Then Mr  Robson called me to discuss my engine requirements , power output, rpm , and lots of other details. Three  days later a detailed engineering drawing arrived in my inbox for me to check and agree prior to confirming the order. I then paid for them and they arrived this morning .

 Conclusion. Cracking service . I would not hesitate either to use them again or to recommend them unreservedly .

Andy

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Andy

A couple of shots of the engine bay with some of the wiring complete . I have required all the lighting, wipers, washers, etc back to the fuse box. A combination of new wire and replacement terminals hopefully means reliable electrics . The other bits are the set of relays for fuel pump, fans, ecu, coils and injectors  and the power distribution fuse box that takes the power form the boot located battery and distributes it to the fuse box in the glove compartment, the Epas steering and the ecu power supplies .

oh. Cannot upload as only allowed 92kb which seems not to be enough even for the thumbnails . Bother .

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