[Car_Upgrade] Yet Another Mi16 1.9 Build

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A little more plumbing. Fuel system is almost complete bar one last line from rail to regulator and a set of injectors. I will then drop a couple of gallons of fuel in the tank, earth the pump relay , stand back and enjoy the display of fuel leaks.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Fuel system completed. Pressure set to 40psi for a starter and all seems to be o.k. ( i.e. No fuel leaks) However, I do have to admit to a schoolboy error. When I first added fuel to the tank and earthed the pump relay , no pressure, no fuel but a running pump. Guess who got the feed and return fuel connections on the tank the wrong way round. Doh. All is well that ends well though. Next stop is to wire in the ecu and see if I can add a spark to the fuel in the right place at the right time.

[welshpug 1,621]

please get a fixed fpr!

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

hi. As I am not using the rising rate facility, it will behave as a fixed fpr unless I have misunderstood something. The gauge is only a temp measure for setup purposes and is a two minute job to remove .

[welshpug 1,621]

they're a pain in the arse and a liability I'm afraid, you are far better off with an oem type fixed capsule.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Yes. I have an o.e.m.one but it is a bespoke fitting into the end of the o.e fuel rail and does not fit into the Jenvey rail, which is why I reluctantly bought a new regulator from Emerald who suggested this one . And they charged me the thick end of £100 into the bargain. Having said all this, I used a similar one on my Integrale which performed reliably for a couple of years and as far as I know, is still behaving itself .

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

More progress, but with all theses things, not quite as quickly as hoped. I finished the fuel system and then the backplate for the airbox arrived. When I offered up that I realised that one of the fuel lines was in the way. One relocated fuel line later I think I have an operational system again with the pressure set at 45psi . Next job was to finish the loom which I have done bar the termination of two connectors, one for the cam sensor (short of a 3 pin JPT plug) and the map sensor, which I am unsure about. I do not have a 1 bar sensor although I have wired for one and am not sure if it is worth the expense of getting one ( Weber-marelli) at £84 The base map in the K6 maps both fuel and ignition on tps so something to ponder on whilst I do other jobs like locating and plumbing up the oil catch tank, finishing the water plumbing, cutting the back plate for the air box and a hundred other jobs still to complete .

[welshpug 1,621]

its not absolutely necessary to use a map sensor if its running tps for load, it would only be for barometric correction which in the uk isnt really necessary.

 

satchell do an inline fpr holder for about £30, this takes the standard non adjustable fpr, I would highly recommend this.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Morning,

Thanks for the input. I will get in touch with them and see if they do one with -6 jic connections. I believe that the ecu has internal barometric pressure correction but I may have misunderstood when I was talking to someone at Emerald last week.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Ah. See what you mean having re read your note. Nothing on the Satchell website so I will give them a call. I now think I have seen something not dissimilar on the Emerald site too. I should have thought of this before and saved myself some expense

[welshpug 1,621]

the satchell one has 12mm tapped holes so you can use an adapter to -6 or an 8mm hose tail.

 

 

https://flic.kr/p/U5NCyF

 

actually have this one spare as I am using 8 injectors and the original gti6 fuel rail and regulator.

 

main reason I am against using adjustable regulators is that there's no need for them, I cannot imagine any scenario on an injected engine that you would need to change the pressure.

 

secondly us that my experience of them is that they can wander, and you can't always trust the gauge , Sandy was dead against them as well, which has cemented my view.

 

weve had no end of running issues with a saxo I service for which I believe has led to the early demise of the engine from over/under fuelling, ended an event last year burning so much oil it had a full 5 litres poured in over 4 stages!

 

luckily it held together enough for the rods pistons and head to be used on a fresh block, new map and a fixed fpr and weve picked up a few bhp too.

Edited April 28, 2017 by welshpug

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Thank you. You are being extremely helpful and have convinced me that I should change mine . I will give Satchell a call unless you want to sell your spare?

[petert 549]

If the K6 doesn't have an internal map sensor I'd be adding one.

 

If the K6 can only map via TPS then there's no point having a MAP sensor, other than for barometric correction. If you go down the route of making such parts obsolete you may as well run carbs.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Afternoon,

The K6 will happily use both Tps and map if required. The base map installed only uses tps but it is up to the rolling road operator to decide exactly how to use the available sensors to get the best out of the engine and installation. So my query was really about what is viewed as best practice when mapping a n/a engine. If it is of benefit, I will happily install a 1 bar map sensor but did not want to do so if all it was going to do was sit there doing nothing

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Hi Welshpug,

Adaptor ordered from Satchell and AN adaptors from speedflow.

Thanks again for your valuable advice and help

Andy

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

A small update. I have just about finished the water plumbing, ditto the crankcase ventilation and installed the loom, bar map and cam sensors. As soon as I have my fpr adaptor, I can finish the fuel lines, put in some oil and water and see if I can get some oil pressure . At this rate, it may even fire up within the next week or so. That would be progress.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Got to the cranking over stage yesterday evening. All seems well with oil pressure, green light on the ecu. although the set up and initialisation took a while. The switched power supply I had chosen to use to power the ecu was fine except when cranking, when it went off, which was a piece of pure genius on my part. With the error rectified, all seems well. Just hope I have some compression when I put the plugs in, then a fuel rail to finish and one water hose and it might even start

[petert 549]

Looking good. All the best for blast off. I'm always nervous.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Yes. Very. At this stage, head is full of doubts and ' did I do this properly and have I remembered that'. In the end, fuel, water and turn the key, but I am short of a couple of items, which is frustrating, but lots of other jobs to be getting on with..Thanks for the encouragement. Appreciated.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I managed to get the engine to start and run this morning. A real milestone. Tappets a bit noisy to start with, but I expected that with hydraulic lifters. The fueling is quite easy to adjust via the laptop , but I have not tried to trim the ignition yet. Only fly in the ointment was an oil leak from the sump joint. I had not expected that one, having using anaerobic Loctite sealant on the flanges, but leak it did in one place. So, oil out, sump and spacer off, then an age cleaning up, then out with the Threebond 1211, bolts back in and torqued up. I will leave it overnight before replacing the oil and trying again. I am not quite sure if this Threebond stuff is anaerobic but the sealant that has squeezed out looks to have remained fluid, so I guess it is. No indication on the tube. I really hope this works as I do not fancy removing the whole lot again and I want to get on with balancing the bodies , fitting the air trumpets and the airbox and then getting on with the rest of the car build.

I have not installed the COP nor am I running fully sequential injection yet. The reason is that the Emerald is configured with wasted spark and semisequential injection. I have wired to run the former but did not want to attempt to mess with the ECU configuration prior to getting the motor to run. Lack of confidence really, but I am happy now to wire up the cam sensor and try sequential injection for a starter, once the oil leak is fully fixed.

Bugger. Forgot to invert the iPad before photographing.

[petert 549]

1211 is a silastic type product. Great stuff. I hope the photo isn't a bad omen. Always best to keep the rubber on the ground.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

That made me smile! Yes. Slow curing stuff. I looked it up last night. I will replace the oil this morning and try again. If it leaks again, I will have some unevenness on the machined faces. I cleaned them very carefully and they all look absolutely perfect, but we shall see.

[petert 549]

I always glue the spacer plate on first with some spare bolts etc, ensuring that it's fully sealed and cured before then putting the sump on. Especially when the engine is in the car.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Woe is me! Still leaking from exactly the same place. I think it is not the sump flange but either the crankshaft oil seal or the hockey stick seals. No trace of oil on the back of the flywheel though. Looks like it is a gearbox out job. Very disappointing and frustrating

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

Just read that post Peter. What a good idea. I will do that next time anyway, as the sump will now have to come off again, but I think I will have to take the box out, if only to check that the oil leak is in fact from that area, and is dribbling down onto the sump flange