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Cameron

[project] The Ultimate Track 205

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base-1

:lol::lol: I wasn't having a go at you, just an observation from all sorts of build threads all over the internets!

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Rippthrough

Yes, there's a lot of track cars on the net pretending to be race cars that have 50 kilos of extra s*it on just to hold wiring/brake lines/other s*it in the prettiest way possible. Tie wraps and foil tape are all you need...

Edited by Rippthrough
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Cameron

I'll be using zip-ties wherever I can. :lol:

 

You can get little pressed aloominum zip-tie mounts that you can bond to any surface and weigh absolutely sod all, so that's what I'll be using for any wiring runs or anything that doesn't need to be bolted down.

 

But yes.. absolutely agree on the above! P-clips are piss annoying anyway as they never stay in the orientation you want them, and if you want to detach whatever it is you've clipped down you need to drill out the rivets and get swarf everywhere! Lesson learnt from my previous track car.

Edited by Cameron

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calvinhorse

I'll dig out the picture I took of the dismantled f1 car in the nurburgring museum, loaaaaaads of zip ties!

 

No glue holding ball joints in tho :D

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HERMAN

Cameron read your messages mate.

Also these aluminium tie rap bases your talking about are all over the GT3 Ginetta that I work on but I can not find a suppler anywhere. Any suggestions?

Cheers

Neil

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Cameron

This is the glue you'll need to stick them down - Click!

 

It's rubberised, so much tougher than normal super glue and can withstand all the vibration.

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Rippthrough

You can get toughened superglue from most modelshops or even a few supermarkets these days, cheaper than buying 410 from online places, or get the starloc version from shop4glue. Personally I much prefer a dab of polyurethane, it's a lot more resistant to fuel/oil, etc.

Edited by Rippthrough
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qwerty

Could you not rivet them on?

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alexcrosse

rivets need holes

 

...plus.. loctite is motorsport.

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Cameron

Amen to that!

 

Rivets mean drilling holes in chassis members, which I don't want to do! They also never fasten down tightly enough to keep something aligned, so your clips always end up being wonky and spoiling the neatness you're trying to achieve in the first place.

 

Also a smear of adhesive is much lighter than a pop rivet. :lol:

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Weser

Also those have only got one hole to pin them down so they are bound to bend.

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alexcrosse

I just use the self adhesive foam backed plastic zip tie mounts on my 205. Don't weigh anything, easy to put on, do the job.

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brumster

Sikaflex 221 FTW! Stickier than a turd on a wooly jumper...

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Cameron

Been busy doing my seat mounts the past few days..

 

DSC03263_zps5432c2a5.jpg

 

DSC03267_zps12abf80a.jpg

 

DSC03271_zpseb38f754.jpg

 

Then I made a little prototype threaded insert for my track rods. I'd been having a bit of a think about how to do them as hex bar was unavailable in the grade I wanted (EN14), so I had to be a bit creative. I turned the insert down to it's basic shape, then milled some flats into the end so that you can get a spanner on them; for simplicity (and saving a lot of time) I opted for a square profile rather than hexagonal, I think they look pretty good. :)

 

DSC03254_zps4b7f0a32.jpg

 

DSC03260_zps83f88b53.jpg

 

They're 19mm across flats, so I may go down to 17mm to save a little more weight. :lol: That said, I quite like the look of them as they are.

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welshpug

Leave it 19mm, saves having to use two 17's :)

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Cameron

That's what I was thinking, but the jam nuts turned out to be 15mm. :)

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guffe

Just one position for the seat? Hope you are totally pleased with the hight and angle.

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Cameron

No I just welded it in hoping for the best. :lol:

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Batfink

You can always move the pedals and steering wheel nearer

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welshpug

as per gumpert apollo and a few others.

 

quite a tilt on that seat, I guess its pretty low like an f1 car :lol:

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alexcrosse

That rear offside mount comply with the 40sqcm regulation? Look buff though, they 3mm main plate with a 2mm shroud around at the front?

 

Not much of a tilt on it... looks to be just at the correct angle. I'm guessing the top back section of the seat it upright? Sure that sued to be in K regs but think it got removed.

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Cameron

Section 2.2.1 only applies to supports that are bolted to the chassis / body.. mounts that are part of the body don't have to meet that requirement.

 

Even so, they're 3mm S515 and 1.5mm stiffening shroud jobbie, and extend 7cm at the base, so meet 2.2.3. :)

 

The seat really isn't as tilted as the mounts suggest.. I'd quite like it to be more so but there just isn't the space to tilt it any more or move it further back. I think the requirement has been removed now brah, but it's at a sensible angle nonetheless.

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alexcrosse

yeah, seats are designed to work upright lk. And theyre pretty laid back even when theyre upright. Important to have the head support right lk. As you have.

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