Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Cameron

[project] The Ultimate Track 205

Recommended Posts

Cameron

My Clio currently has a Drenth sequential. :D

 

I'm nackered, so bed immediately. Pics tomorrow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
davenport

You teasing ****!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Willem_Jacobs

Just a box....

 

We want to see what's inside !!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

WP_20130718_001_zpsc79e06b1.jpg

 

WP_20130718_002_zps7a8bfbde.jpg

 

I also got a strain gauge lever and a Geartronics closed loop flatshift system. :D

 

WP_20130718_003_zpsc131a122.jpg

 

Very happy indeed! :D

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DutchCo

Great stuff from the Netherlands :) If you ever consider upgrading to paddle-shift, take a look at the system from K-M-P (http://www.k-m-p.nl), they have a great bolt-on system for the DG400.

 

Awesome build btw, love reading this :D

Edited by DutchCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Rippthrough

The geartronix unit has a paddle shift option anyway, and it's damned good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

It does but it's also pretty expensive; once you factor everything in it's about 2.5k for a system. It'll probably be something I look at as an upgrade later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Batfink

Gear levers are cooler than paddles

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

I've had a bit of a slacker week due to all the awesome weather, but did a bit more work today making the rear lower wishbones. These are a little bit trickier as, due to having 9" rear wheels and not wanting a massive scrub radius (offset from kingpin axis to tyre centre at ground level), they have to be cantilevered in order to clear the inside of the wheel rim. It makes for some pretty funky looking wishbones though. :D

 

WP_20130721_001_zps6c357522.jpg

 

WP_20130721_006_zpse982f63a.jpg

 

WP_20130721_008_zps019fc822.jpg

 

WP_20130721_007_zpsfe1510c7.jpg

 

Got my eye in now so I should be able to get the other one done pretty quickly, then I just have the uppers to make and I'm all done for wishbones! (For now)

 

Next job will be engine, gearbox and diff mounts.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Willem_Jacobs

Just being curious...

Those 'bushes' on each end, don't they warp ever so slightly due to the welding?? I'd think the welds would oval them?

I've just recently watched a few vids (youtube) on rebuilds of forced induction beamer engines and was esspecially interested by the way they use a torqueplate (in effect some sort of replacement for the cylinderhead) while machining (crosshatching) the bore..

I'd think these bushes would be warped slightly by the welding-heat, so are you planning on regrinding the centre's?? Might just save you from any unwanted loading hotspots...

(not sure about all the correct terms here, since i'm not native english, but i tried doing my best here ;) )

Edited by Willem_Jacobs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Don't worry about your English. :D

 

Those housings have spherical bearings pressed into them, so it isn't a massive problem if they're slightly warped. I've made wishbones this way in the past and not had any problems, but I can use a small sanding drum if they're too tight. Hopefully I won't need to, but I'll measure them all before fitting the bearings just to be sure. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nikofreak

Hi,

 

Just registered to congratulate you for the job done ! Really great !!

 

Best regards,

Niko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
guffe

This is sheer engineering porn and should be banned! Damn, I want those kind of wishbones too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allanallen

I'm really enjoying your project Cameron but I can't help thinking it's being let down by the wishbones.

I still think it's let down by lack of adjustability, I know you don't want to use rod ends so why not an eccentric bearing setup or even some kind of 'slotted' affair? I'm sure it'll pay dividends in the future.

I also have to agree that the bearing housings will have warped, I know if we were to produce something like that we'd machine the bores after the welding as they will be out of round. Spherical bearings need to be a decent fit so a 'sanded', oval housing isn't really going to cut it, especially with the lack of circlips. Too tight and the bearing will nip up, too much clearance and it'll move and wear.

Don't take this the wrong way, it's meant as constructive criticism.

 

Al

 

Edit, just to add that Im not poo pooing your work without reason and no experience,here's a couple of pics of some arms we've produced in the past. Spherical bearing hosing machined after welding and circliped. I realise it's working in a different plane to your bearings, it's merely an example of our experiences with spherical bearing housings.

photo_zpsf7d07bd6.jpg

 

 

photo_zps2396b848.jpg

 

Spherical bearings in housings pressed into wishbones and using a jap eccentric adjuster. s*it pics but gives you an idea of what I'm getting at

 

photo_zps59a40933.jpg

photo_zps7d53fe90.jpg

Edited by allanallen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
shalmaneser

I think that's fair criticism but at the end of the day there's nothing to stop Cam going back and making some duper-duper fully adjustable slotted and circlipped wishbones further down the line should he feel he needs to.

 

Keeping it simple initially will keep the costs and complexity down.

 

EDIT: but your wishbones do look lovely!

Edited by shalmaneser

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

I do appreciate the comments, but I just don't really see the need for adjustment. There will be some amount of error in the mounting points, I can't really get around that, but as long as my measuring has been accurate enough it shouldn't prove to be too much of a problem. While the car is an engineering exercise, minimising complexity of parts is quite a big part of it too. There isn't any need to circlip the bearings when they're orientated like mine are, as the spring force will act to keep them bottomed out in the housing; I'll be using a light press fit and retaining compound to make sure vibration isn't a problem.

 

I've been busy again today after a week off at the Nurburgring, adding the push-rod mounts to the front lower wishbones:

 

They go back in the jig, and a gusset plate is welded in.

 

DSC03241_zpsd3065166.jpg

 

DSC03243_zps01fbc128.jpg

 

Then I cut and shaped the mounting brackets from S515 strip, as the wishbones are T45.

 

DSC03245_zps764cf55f.jpg

 

And welded them in place.

​DSC03247_zps4837faab.jpg

 

DSC03248_zpsb845fa2d.jpg

 

So now I have quite a good pile of wishbones! :D

 

DSC03250_zps7fb17601.jpg

 

The rear lowers need the track rod bracket fitting, then I just need to add some pressed washers to the F&R lowers to secure the brake lines. After that I'll send them off to be powder coated. :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
madspikes

Its Mechanical Art - Bloody fantasic.

 

Keep up the great work, and keep posting the pictures.

 

Mad.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Thank you sir! Wishbones are now all finished! :D

 

The rear lowers now have their track rod mounting brackets, and the last detail was to add some pressed washers to secure the brake lines. Now they're all ready to be sent off for powder coating.

 

DSC03251_zps23fa1de9.jpg

 

DSC03253_zps2d22db74.jpg

 

My next job will be to mount the rear diff.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Willem_Jacobs

what kind of clips will be holding on to the washers to secure the brake lines??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cameron

Tiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiny little zip-ties. :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Batfink

Zip ties???? Maybe it's a 205 after all lol

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
base-1

People get too hung up on s*it like this I think. It's a race car - zip ties are generally very quick and easy to remove and usually very easy to fit. They're reliable when used sensibly. They're also dirt cheap, and therefore disposable. Plus if you're in a panic you can find them almost anywhere. Only tool for them you need is a set of flush cutters (to be tidy - in a pinch you can use anything to cut or break them off really), and changing brake lines for example takes almost no time extra on top of the threaded ends.

 

Fit stuff with "fancy" things like P-clips and you're in a world of bulls*it. Wrapped around the pipe, then what - riveted on usually? So you have to drill rivets out to get them off, which means ali shards everywhere and a long s*it process. Then you have to get new ones all sorted and rivet them on, etc - you see where I'm going with this. Similar goes for things that are screwed on.

 

Zip-ties work!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Batfink

deep-sea-fishing.jpg​

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×